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Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 11-06-2010, 07:33 PM   #1
McSpeed
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The steering guibo detachment method thread

How have people detached the guibo from the steering gear shaft? It appears to be seized. So far I've bent my favorite prying screwdriver on this thing using the front subframe as a pivot. I'm thinking of trying snap ring pliers on the slit when I go back out. Should I detach the whole steering gear from the subframe to get better access and tap it off? Should I use more force? Ideas welcome. I'm gonna eat something now.
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:15 PM   #2
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Wow, mine came right off...

Good luck.
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Old 11-06-2010, 08:50 PM   #3
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If you mean it is stuck to the bottom of the steering column just hammer a flat blade screw driver in to the slot where the bolt that tightens the guibo is located. insert the screwdriver parallel to the steering column. If you scroll down this http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=278999 page until you see the pic where the guy is holding the guibo in his hand you can clearly see from the damage that he inserted a screwdriver exactly the way i am describing.
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Old 11-06-2010, 09:17 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by one thumb juan View Post
If you mean it is stuck to the bottom of the steering column just hammer a flat blade screw driver in to the slot where the bolt that tightens the guibo is located. insert the screwdriver parallel to the steering column. If you scroll down this http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=278999 page until you see the pic where the guy is holding the guibo in his hand you can clearly see from the damage that he inserted a screwdriver exactly the way i am describing.


That's a good thought but not as easy with mine - there's a plastic fin that runs from the steering gear (I think) through that groove - I guess for assured alignment. That's why I was thinking snap ring pliers might work to accomplish the same kind of separating force...but I dunno if they'll fnd a bite or be strong enough. I'm going out again later and I'll see what I can do.
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Old 11-06-2010, 09:33 PM   #5
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the fin fills the entire slot? sure you can't sneak a blade in there somewhere? If i remember correctly it might be easier with the drivers side front wheel off and incubus on your radio.
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Old 11-07-2010, 12:20 AM   #6
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the fin fills the entire slot? sure you can't sneak a blade in there somewhere? If i remember correctly it might be easier with the drivers side front wheel off and incubus on your radio.
Here's the fin. I tried various screwdriver action but nothing small enough not to destroy the plastic has gotten me anywhere so far. Snap ring pliers won't bite because of the fin. My new idea is to get a hardened washer and slip it into the left side next to the fin then screw the clamp screw in from the other side. The clamp screw will then run into the hardened washer and PUSH THE THING APART

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Old 11-07-2010, 12:35 AM   #7
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Sorry if this is a dumb question but you did unbolt the steering rack and move it forward to make the clearance you need to separate this right?
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:47 AM   #8
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Sorry if this is a dumb question but you did unbolt the steering rack and move it forward to make the clearance you need to separate this right?
The steering rack doesn't need to be unbolted for this for doing this - the upper shaft is telescoping and it can definitely retract upward a bit. I'm taking out the subframe so I can unbolt the steering rack if it helps a lot but it's not specified in TIS for separating the guibo.
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:51 AM   #9
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It not specified but makes it much easier. When it is loose you can pull it forward to give you some clearance. Also you can place a screwdriver against the leading edge of the guibo and hammer it off the shaft. STOP why are you removing your subframe!? The steering rack is held in with 2 bolts accessible from underneath. You will probably have to remove the plastic cover but that's it. Steering rack bolts get tightened to 37 FT/LBS if i remember correctly.
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Old 11-07-2010, 07:55 AM   #10
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also quick note. When i did this my steering wheel turned a hair to the left before i reinstalled. When i got back in and noticed my wheel was now offset to the left i almost punched out my windshield in frustration. Use a bungie to the lock the wheel straight up and down using your brake pedal or suffer.
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Old 11-07-2010, 08:18 AM   #11
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^ K cool I'll see what moving the steering rack gets me. I'm taking the subframe off so reinforcements can be welded into the engine mount hardpoints. In this case I'm pretty sure the plastic fin keeps things lined up upon reconnection but I will take precautions.
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:18 AM   #12
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^ K cool I'll see what moving the steering rack gets me. I'm taking the subframe off so reinforcements can be welded into the engine mount hardpoints. In this case I'm pretty sure the plastic fin keeps things lined up upon reconnection but I will take precautions.
First, good to see you have competely removed the bolt. One time I just loosened the bolt, and nearly destroyed the shaft trying to pull it apart.

The plastic thing is an alignment piece...but it's still possible to miss-align on installation 1 tooth. I did this before, and ended up on an alignment rack anyway...so I just left it.

Spreading that thing apart won't help much. You need to break the corrosive bond that's occured in there. One thing I would try is to come in from the top with a long bar and hammer. Or you can try from the bottom tapping in further together. Once you break the bond, it gets easier. I'm assuming you have already unbolted the subframe...using some of it's weight to pull it off can help too.

Working on these cars isn't as easy as people think....
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:52 AM   #13
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Spreading that thing apart won't help much. You need to break the corrosive bond that's occured in there. One thing I would try is to come in from the top with a long bar and hammer. Or you can try from the bottom tapping in further together. Once you break the bond, it gets easier.
Good to know - I was just looking at the new guibo and noticing that the shaft clamp structure looks pretty strong- a hardened washer might just deform and get stuck in there without much gain separation : P Going forward I'll focus on breaking the bond.

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I'm assuming you have already unbolted the subframe...using some of it's weight to pull it off can help too.

Working on these cars isn't as easy as people think....
LOL I see why you first tried to lower the subframe without detaching the guibo to get at the OPN on your turbo build. I haven't unbolted it yet but gotcha. It's nice to hear what someone's done already.
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Old 11-07-2010, 10:23 AM   #14
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also quick note. When i did this my steering wheel turned a hair to the left before i reinstalled. When i got back in and noticed my wheel was now offset to the left i almost punched out my windshield in frustration. Use a bungie to the lock the wheel straight up and down using your brake pedal or suffer.
As an added note, once the guibo is disconnected the steering wheel is able to turn freely. As a result, it is recommended to lock the steering wheel via the ignition lock or as described above as over-rotation of the wheel can damage the airbag contact ring in the steering column.
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Old 11-07-2010, 11:31 AM   #15
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New plan:
Secure steering wheel.
Disengage top shaft and get it out of the way and/or sever rubber material.
Get a small two arm puller in there to break the bond and pull the guibo up off the steering rack shaft.
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Old 11-07-2010, 11:35 AM   #16
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Wow, I can't believe that thing is seized on so badly. Hope you get it off, today.
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Old 11-07-2010, 04:13 PM   #17
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That worked. I moved the steering rack forward a little to get the steering wheel shaft out of the guibo, moved it back, and got the puller in from the top. Very easy even with a 1/4" drive ratchet.

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Old 11-10-2010, 07:44 AM   #18
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That's some slick wrenching going on right there....impressive man!
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Old 11-10-2010, 10:13 PM   #19
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Thanks!

btw, for whoever comes up against this in the future - the puller that worked out was a 5-ton 2-arm from Sears - it's not too tall and a good size to thread through the center gap in the guibo
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Old 11-21-2010, 09:14 PM   #20
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Damn, I got quite lucky that I did not need a puller. It came right off without a fight
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