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Old 11-25-2010, 10:35 PM   #21
Redline
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it runs perfectly when i drive it though...when i first noticed the sound yesterday i let it idle for 5 minutes and the sound went away except for a very quiet ticking sound, i drove my car home and it ran perfectly, i went to start it up again this morning and it made this sound again...

if it were something internal with the engine wouldnt i see loss of power and it would run badly. idle is smooth and everything even when its making that sound.

if it is the engine, im buying an ls1 and dropping it in there as i wont get **** for my 323i with a fvcked up engine...
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Old 11-26-2010, 09:03 AM   #22
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I would take your AC and Serp belt off and feel all of the components by hand.

word.
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Old 11-26-2010, 10:50 AM   #23
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Starter is not moving when the engine is running.... .
Really? I thought he might have the hybrid model.

Apparently, you've never heard a starter go bad where the bendix doesn't retract all the way. The ringgear catches on the edge and forces it to spin, making a REALLY load noise until it eventually stops. The starter motor is not turning while this happens. Would I take the starter off first? No, but it would be on my list of things to consider. I would start by doing the screwdriver in the ear test...(pointy end down!)
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:00 PM   #24
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The starter is located underneath the intake manifold. I've heard bearings go in starters that sound like that...
The starter should be long since disengaged and turned off by the time the OP's noises get cranked up.
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:04 PM   #25
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it runs perfectly when i drive it though...when i first noticed the sound yesterday i let it idle for 5 minutes and the sound went away except for a very quiet ticking sound, i drove my car home and it ran perfectly, i went to start it up again this morning and it made this sound again...

if it were something internal with the engine wouldnt i see loss of power and it would run badly. idle is smooth and everything even when its making that sound.

if it is the engine, im buying an ls1 and dropping it in there as i wont get **** for my 323i with a fvcked up engine...
You have an issue with the tensioner or idler pulley. You could have a bearing problem in one of the auxiliary systems that are driven by the main belt, but my money is on the tensioner pulley.
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Old 11-26-2010, 01:09 PM   #26
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this sounds very familiar. I would first check all the pulleys and you may get lucky- its a waterpump bearing or something of the nature.

the bad news is it may be much worse - does the sound go away as you rev up? cause if it does its a timing chain issue - could be the top tensioner has a worn sprint - easy to repair and replace - or it could be your oil pump in which case you are in serious trouble.

I have seen this happen on several 323s specifically. easy way to find out

goto harbor freight and get an auto stethoscope for 3$ turn on the engine, and place the stethescope right below the vanos on the metal piece. you hsould hear the chain running. then have a friend rev the car - if you hear it snap taught then you know its a tensioner. top one again is simple to fix you just need a 32mm socket(or 34 dont remember) and some washers. or just get a new spring from the dealer. (should be under 10 bucks).
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Old 11-26-2010, 03:53 PM   #27
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tensioner
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Old 11-26-2010, 04:46 PM   #28
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had the same (?) thing happening 2 days ago...car engine sounded like a coffeegrinder, even though it ran smoothly...it turned out my starter was broken and it kept running while the engine ran- creating a very similar sound...

either way - don't keep your engine running when its making sounds like that...the second i heard the grinding, i had my car towed to the nearest garage...
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Old 11-27-2010, 01:09 AM   #29
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The ticking sound is the vanos.

There are many good suggestions on the grinding noise. With the engine cold you can remove the belts and run the engine for a minute. This will help isolate the idler, tensioners, AC, PS pump, water pump, alternator.

The most compelling suggestion given your symptom is the starter.
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Old 11-28-2010, 07:25 AM   #30
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FYI - my car got back from the garage...turned out my starter got stuck in its 'starting' position - so it stayed connected to the running engine. The high revs had completely tore it up, causing a similar sound. it was a 300 euro fix
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Old 11-28-2010, 05:01 PM   #31
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started it up today to pull it up on the ramps and the sound isnt as loud, but when i listened around the engine bay with a screwdriver it sounds like the sound is coming directly from the intake manifold and when I put the screwdriver up to the DISA valve to listen to it the noise was loud there, so what could be causing this in the intake manifold area of the engine? its not the pulleys since i just checked those and they are fine. and when i start the car i hear no scraping while its cranking so i dont know if its the starter...
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Old 11-28-2010, 05:50 PM   #32
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You have to find something long enough to reach down to the starter itself. Noises generated on an engine can travel to different components and make it very difficult to isolate. A long rod, wooden dowel, anything that you can put an ear to and touch the starter. Remember, the intake manifold is a bunch of hollow chambers, which will amplify noise. This could also mean the noise is traveling through the intake manifold from the head, although I can't think of anything that would make that much noise and not affect how the engine runs.
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Old 12-02-2010, 10:15 PM   #33
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im still waiting to get this into the dealership so im still trying to see whats causing this issue.


I forgot to mention my friend who was learning to drive manual got behind the wheel of my car and dropped the clutch pretty hard a few times but didnt stall it. this sound started the morning after he drove it. so could it be transmission related?
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:05 PM   #34
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Really? I thought he might have the hybrid model.

Apparently, you've never heard a starter go bad where the bendix doesn't retract all the way. The ringgear catches on the edge and forces it to spin, making a REALLY load noise until it eventually stops. The starter motor is not turning while this happens. Would I take the starter off first? No, but it would be on my list of things to consider. I would start by doing the screwdriver in the ear test...(pointy end down!)
This is so rare I didn't even think to consider it. Good point though...
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:14 PM   #35
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my vote would go towards a worn pulley, idler pulley is the most common to go, and is easy to replace. The engine itself sounds find.

right, sounds like bearings being crushed. At the beginning of the video i thought your starter wouldn't disengage, but i could be wrong. Buy a stethoscope diagnose it yourself or take it to a shop near you to have it checked.
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:16 PM   #36
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im still waiting to get this into the dealership so im still trying to see whats causing this issue.


I forgot to mention my friend who was learning to drive manual got behind the wheel of my car and dropped the clutch pretty hard a few times but didnt stall it. this sound started the morning after he drove it. so could it be transmission related?
if its transmission related, i suspect the throwout bearing
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:22 AM   #37
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Did you take the belts off yet and check out the pulleys? I had my water pump bearings go, and had the same symptoms as you. No overheat, car ran fine, just a terrible noise.
It's super easy to check - take off the belts and turn the WP pulley by hand. If there is any play, you've found your problem. Check the other pulleys while the belts are off. If they spin freely, replace. As someone else suggested, you can start the car (if the engine is totally cold) for a few seconds with the belts off. If the sound is gone, then you know it was coming from something belt-driven, most likely the WP. ***Don't let the car run for more than a minute with the belts off***
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:48 AM   #38
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Did you take the belts off yet and check out the pulleys? I had my water pump bearings go, and had the same symptoms as you. No overheat, car ran fine, just a terrible noise.
It's super easy to check - take off the belts and turn the WP pulley by hand. If there is any play, you've found your problem. Check the other pulleys while the belts are off. If they spin freely, replace. As someone else suggested, you can start the car (if the engine is totally cold) for a few seconds with the belts off. If the sound is gone, then you know it was coming from something belt-driven, most likely the WP. ***Don't let the car run for more than a minute with the belts off***

It was my water pump that was making that noise as well. Replaced the water pump and the tensioner pulleys as well as the mech ac tensioner and all set now. Water pump is starting to fail. 1 Hour job max to change WP and all pulleys and mech A/C tensioner with minimal hand tools. Just need a T50 Torx for pully removal.

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Old 12-03-2010, 10:59 AM   #39
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water pump was replaced less than 10k miles ago... is it safe to drive with this problem to the dealership thats 30 miles away? i tried taking the belts off but the tensioner wont budge...
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:07 AM   #40
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water pump was replaced less than 10k miles ago... is it safe to drive with this problem to the dealership thats 30 miles away? i tried taking the belts off but the tensioner wont budge...
I would not suggest it. Not saying for sure but It may be a water pump and would not push it if I did not have to. If I remember right I think you need the T50 torx to release the tensioner and remove the pully the correct way and turn it to the right to release tension ( If I am wrong i am sure another fanatic will correct me) . Did your pump have a warranty? Is that why you want to drive 30 miles? check your WP for play once you remove your belt. I was very apprehensive about doing this my self but I was a very easy DIY. If you do not have a spot to do it yourseld then and only then would I let a Mech do it.

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