e46 drivers side door lock cylinder problem solved

Golden! Thanks a million. BMW wanted to replace the whole lock : 350 € + service (110 € / hour). Parts (here) cost me 18 € and took 30 mins tops. You need to press that cylinder shitloads and lock it with the cover. Otherwise very easy. No need to remove the door panel etc, just unscrew the hex socket bolt and make sure not to drop it in the door.

Cheers

Hi guys, this just happened to me on my 2003 that I've been letting my daughter drive. The fob stopped working about a week ago, and after just one week of using the key it broke. So I had to call a locksmith to break into the car. Just ordered the kit off eBay, but I have a question. Is there a way to keep the locks from being able to be actuated at all? I tried the key fob while in the car and it worked once and locked it, but would not work the second time to unlock it. If that happens again while the key is outside the car, I'll be screwed again and locked out again. What can I do to prevent that until I fix it? Ed.

Originally Posted by Itzed

Hi guys, this just happened to me on my 2003 that I've been letting my daughter drive. The fob stopped working about a week ago, and after just one week of using the key it broke. So I had to call a locksmith to break into the car. Just ordered the kit off eBay, but I have a question. Is there a way to keep the locks from being able to be actuated at all? I tried the key fob while in the car and it worked once and locked it, but would not work the second time to unlock it. If that happens again while the key is outside the car, I'll be screwed again and locked out again. What can I do to prevent that until I fix it? Ed.

Pull the fuse for the central locking. There are two, maybe, three fuses listed for central locking. Only pull the highest current fuse, 30 Amps I believe. Leave the 5 Amp one in.

Suggest you check out www.bmwgm5.com

You may have a bad keyfob, they are only $160 new if the dealer is resonable.

You may also have a failing GM5 module that needs the relays replaced?

Originally Posted by scottjoh

Pull the fuse for the central locking. There are two, maybe, three fuses listed for central locking. Only pull the highest current fuse, 30 Amps I believe. Leave the 5 Amp one in.

Thanks! I found it, after about 10 minutes of looking in my garage that is currently 120 degrees. 25 amp fuse, columnn 13, bottom row.

Originally Posted by jfoj

Suggest you check out www.bmwgm5.com

You may have a bad keyfob, they are only $160 new if the dealer is resonable.

You may also have a failing GM5 module that needs the relays replaced?

Thanks. Right now my money is on the key fob, but you can never be sure. I have me some learning to do.

Originally Posted by Itzed

Thanks! I found it, after about 10 minutes of looking in my garage that is currently 120 degrees. 25 amp fuse, columnn 13, bottom row.

"column 13, bottom row" is better known as Fuse #60 and yes, 25 Amps

Just finished this job this morning, took me about and hour and a half, mainly because the replacement parts did not fit properly in my lock. I have a 2003 325i. I ordered the parts from an eBay supplier in Chicago. I can't really imagine why they didn't work, as they looked identical and perfect in every way. However, they were just a little off, and required me using a dremmel with several grinding attachments in order to make some of them slightly smaller, and open up the hole in one of the parts to allow the stem of the lock to go through it (sorry I don't know the names of these pieces). Anyway, after a while, I was able to grind and trim them to get them to go and fit where they needed to go. Weird, but overall the job itself was not too bad, and for 30.00 I have my locks working again. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. Ed.

This is very helpful, I will repair the cylinder as soon as I can get the Door open. That is what I need help with.

How can I unlock the door? Key-less remote is broken and now the lock cylinder has broken as-well.

Do you have rear seats that fold? If you do then you can get in through the trunk.

Problem solved. I knocked out the panel in the trunk (ski option) and my 12 yr old daughter crawled through,put the keys in the ignition and rolled down a window.

I have tried everything imaginable to get this cylinder out. It's as if it is attached by another screw even though I know it's not. The side closest to the door edge where the hex bolt is attached seems to pry out somewhat but the other side next to the handle is absolutely stuck tight! I have used a screwdriver & other tools trying to force lock out while pulling on the lock but NOTHING works! I have literally bent the metal around the hex access hole, if I pull or force any more it will definitely break. Any suggestions? My dealer wants $670 to fix!!! After what I've been through with this, I'd easily pay $300...but $670?! That is robbery.

There shouldn't be anything holding it in but the one hex head screw. Are you positive you unscrewed the right one?

100% positive I'm taking out the correct hex screw. In fact I wasn't sure if I was unscrewing it all the way even though it felt like I had, so I tied a wire around the screw and took it completely out just to make sure. It's like it's seized up or something on that one side. I have turned the key every way possible thinking that the cylinder might need to be positioned a certain way in order to come out. Nope, nothing works!

Man i dont even know how to thank you enough even tho i havent fix it yet cause i just order the part today but i found out was wrong with it and it was indeed the actuator on the cylinder good thing i can still lock it and unlock it perfectly with the remote but once again thanks ill let you know if i was able to put it back together when i get the replacesment parts.

Originally Posted by CocoNuttz

100% positive I'm taking out the correct hex screw. In fact I wasn't sure if I was unscrewing it all the way even though it felt like I had, so I tied a wire around the screw and took it completely out just to make sure. It's like it's seized up or something on that one side. I have turned the key every way possible thinking that the cylinder might need to be positioned a certain way in order to come out. Nope, nothing works!

The only thing I can think of to tell you is to take the door card off, get an inspection mirror and a flashlight, and take a look up there and see if you can tell why it's hanging up. GL!

Thanks 330iPilot! I'll try that as soon as my back gets fixed, I pulled it out of place working on the car....go figure. This sucks because I know it's an easy fix once this damn cylinder comes out!

i used this exact thread to fix my lock a year ago. costed me $20 for the rebuild kit form ebay and haven't had a problem since. Only thing was i had to use the original spring, the new one seemed like it was for a different car and it just wouldn't line up properly.

Lucky you - wish my cylinder would come out and I'd only have to spend $20 instead of the bull$hit dealer cost of $670!!!

New to forum, passing on info for others who may be like me, lurking.

After lurking and gathering information this is the part I ordered;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221186453940...84.m1439.l2649

Cost a whopping 8 bucks, 13.50 with shipping from UK.
Took it 12 days to arrive on my doorstep.
Installed today, other than I hate that spring, all is well.

Thanx to all who have posted excellent information, pics and videos.
God Bless._nr_