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Suspension & Braking Forum by BimmerWorld
Have some questions about suspension or brake setups for your E46 BMW? Get all your answers here!
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:31 PM   #1
nosreme722
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Rear Suspension Bushings

So I'm putting in some coilovers soon and I just wanted to know more about the rear suspension in general. I know there a number of bushings back there but I dont want spend a couple hundred on just flat out replacing all of them.

So the question is what is the biggest bang for your buck in terms of replacing rear bushings?


I plan on getting adjustable trailing arms soon as well. Also should I replace some with OEM bushings and some with poly? Which? just poly RTABS and thats it?
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:35 PM   #2
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Lower control arm and trailering arm bushings should set you right. Could even stand to do upper control arm as well.
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Old 10-08-2014, 01:46 PM   #3
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The rear sway bar bushings make a huge difference. OEM Lemforders are only like $3 a piece, and the DIY is very easy.
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Old 10-08-2014, 02:03 PM   #4
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Lower control arm and trailering arm bushings should set you right. Could even stand to do upper control arm as well.
This is what I did before coils. I used Powerflex in the RTABs so I didn't have to rent a tool, made it real cheap and felt much better afterwards. Rear sway bushings also help, but rear end links helped me more.
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Old 10-08-2014, 02:11 PM   #5
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lol sounds like weve already got most of em. So OEM sway bar bushings, poly RTABs, and oem lower and upper control arm? Which are the last two exactly? Links or pics?

Thanks all
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Old 10-08-2014, 02:26 PM   #6
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click the suspension link in my sig
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Old 10-08-2014, 03:25 PM   #7
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Definitely do the upper control arm to trailing arm ball joint too, mine was super loose. I went with poly trailing arm bushings, made it easier not needing the special tool.
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Old 10-09-2014, 01:05 AM   #8
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click the suspension link in my sig
Yes I believe Ive been through your entire sig mango thank you for all the great info there, should be mandatory for all new e46 owners to go through those.

I just wanted a bit more clear/ more bang for buck answer including poly bushings. That suspension thread is a bit dense for me and doesnt include anything on poly but its still helpful. Ive done control arms and poly FCABs and have tie rods ready to go so I wanted a better idea on rear end bushings.

So overall, sounds like ill just go with oem sway bar endlinks and bushings, upper control arms and poly RTABs for performance and no stupid tool. Dont need the lowers if Im getting adjustable arms and I may end up including the inner and outer if theyre cheap and easy.

Lol so almost all of them... well maybe ill do them spread out, we'll see. Probably just start with RTABS. Anyway, just wanted to clarify.

Thanks everyone!
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Old 10-09-2014, 01:17 AM   #9
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Does doing the upper require a special tool?
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Old 10-09-2014, 06:40 AM   #10
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Does doing the upper require a special tool?
They all need to be pressed in/out so yes.

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Old 10-09-2014, 07:50 AM   #11
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I noticed a big improvement in my RTABs when I did couple of years ago, really tightened the back end.

Now I am noticing a weird tap/thud when my rear left tire hits a bump at an odd speed/angle.. From resarch it appears its the ball joint? How effective are these, will they yield great improvements?

And the rear swaybars? I didn't know they made such a big difference? Are we talking about the actual end links for them or is there bushings in those as well?
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:21 AM   #12
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I noticed a big improvement in my RTABs when I did couple of years ago, really tightened the back end.

Now I am noticing a weird tap/thud when my rear left tire hits a bump at an odd speed/angle.. From resarch it appears its the ball joint? How effective are these, will they yield great improvements?

And the rear swaybars? I didn't know they made such a big difference? Are we talking about the actual end links for them or is there bushings in those as well?
The rear sway endlinks are usually solid and don't wear out as fast as everything else. The sway bar bushings themselves do. If you get under the car, you'll see the two mounting brackets with the bushings.
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Old 10-09-2014, 10:04 AM   #13
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The rear sway endlinks are usually solid and don't wear out as fast as everything else.
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Old 10-10-2014, 06:26 AM   #14
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While on the topic of bushings.. My rear right upper ball joint is gone by the sound/research I've done.

Should the lower one be then replaced also? Or The other side? Or is it fine to just do one of these at a time?
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Old 10-10-2014, 06:30 AM   #15
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While on the topic of bushings.. My rear right upper ball joint is gone by the sound/research I've done.

Should the lower one be then replaced also? Or The other side? Or is it fine to just do one of these at a time?
Do them in pairs at the very least. If you're going to have the trailing arm off your might as well do them both anyway.

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Old 10-10-2014, 06:33 AM   #16
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Do them in pairs at the very least. If you're going to have the trailing arm off your might as well do them both anyway.

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Why would I have the trailing arm off? I've done my RTABS like 2 years ago.

I am talking about the ball joint on the knuckle, there is a upper and lower one..
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:03 PM   #17
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Now would really be the time to just get everything done at once, it'll save money in the long run. If you want I can hook you up w my friend and mechanic who has done mine, I doubt you will find someone able to do everything cheaper...
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Old 11-04-2014, 11:33 AM   #18
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The upper & lower outer lateral link bushings can be replaced with M3 "ball joint" type bushings. I did this, plus the inner lateral link bushings, and the rear end wiggle is gone. It also makes the steering feel better!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...40&hg=33&fg=30
(parts # 2 & 3)

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Old 11-05-2014, 12:31 PM   #19
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I replaced the top ball joints and bottom bushings with febi ball joints all around. Was a pain to do but tightened up the car a lot. Did adjustable lower control arms at the same time.
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Old 11-05-2014, 12:48 PM   #20
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I replaced the top ball joints and bottom bushings with febi ball joints all around. Was a pain to do but tightened up the car a lot. Did adjustable lower control arms at the same time.

I ordered the exact same ones couple of hours ago from pelican parts.

How did you remove your old ones? Anything in particular you needed to remove to get these out or just the caliper and the control arm?
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