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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 12-23-2010, 12:48 AM   #21
McSpeed
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So I got my power bleeder and the Bavauto clutch tool and went at it. The Bavauto clutch tool isn't really the right size for this slave cylinder- you have to manually compress it a lot before it'll fit. Once it's in, it does let you press the plunger in completely and orient the slave cylinder vertically when bleeding, which is all good and per TIS instructions. What wasn't good is that I forgot to test the power bleeder seal before going full pressure and a slow leak at the reservoir cap had me moving pretty frenetically throughout most of the bleed operation, swapping new paper towels in every couple minutes. Therefore I didn't get a great look at what was coming out of the bleed tube.

Anyhow, in the end, with the clutch and brake depressed, I was able to shift into 3rd and 4th gears, which I guess is something. They would both make reeeeearw sounds as long as I stayed in them which I hope is the sound of the new clutch angrily feathering rather than something undesirable to do with transmission internals.

If I depress the clutch and stay off the brake and try to shift into a gear, it works after a moment once the rear wheels slowly begin spinning.

Now you may ask: well didn't you bleed it good? why is it only a little better?
And I would say: yeah the bleeding went well but then when I was taking the slave cylinder out of the poorly sized tool there may've been a couple slightly too-quick plunger release movements and when I was positioning it for bolting on it may've slipped back a little....so there's probably a little more air in there. The upside is that it's right at the top of the thing and there's no way it got into the hose because of the orientation, so it should be easy to bleed out tomorrow once and for all.

Questions:

1. If there's a squeak (or any noise) from the slave cylinder when the plunger is moving- is that always the noise of air getting sucked in?

2. For the final bolting in- Is it better to just jam the slave cylinder back home quickly and hold it flush with the trans while you spin the nuts down or is it best to gradually work it in by tightening the nuts in an alternating pattern? I guess my question is also- can air get sucked in only when the plunger is released, or can it get in while it's being compressed too? I'm guessing the former.
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Last edited by McSpeed; 12-23-2010 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 12-23-2010, 03:40 AM   #22
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As you know, I'm going through some similar pains as you right now. I replaced my slave cylinder which ended up not being the issue. With that said, I bled about 1/2 pt through the clutch line. Now I can actuate the clutch but my pedal is a little low...I just need to bleed it more.

So the bavauto tool is mildly worthless?
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Old 12-23-2010, 06:54 AM   #23
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Now I can actuate the clutch but my pedal is a little low...I just need to bleed it more.
Just with the pedal pumping? Nice.
That oil-can-reverse-bleed from a couple posts back sounds like the easy way to go if the cylinder gets totally replaced.

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So the bavauto tool is mildly worthless?
There's certainly room for improvement- I wonder who else makes one/how much the OEM one is. The Bavauto one does allow you to attain ideal bleed-valve-is-highest-point orientation with the piston completely compressed....but then you're set up for more air intake when you wrestle it out of the tool.
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Last edited by McSpeed; 12-23-2010 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 12-23-2010, 07:30 AM   #24
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Actually, if you google Baum tools, it has a catalog of BMW factory tools. I did not see a slave cylinder tool in there.

If you use that tool, bleed the system, close the system (bleed valve and master cylinder cap)...how would air enter the system when the piston decompresses?

It takes some strength to keep that piston from flyout if you have someone slowly press the clutch.
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Old 12-23-2010, 10:17 AM   #25
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Actually, if you google Baum tools, it has a catalog of BMW factory tools. I did not see a slave cylinder tool in there.
Baum tools has like one in three special tools mentioned in TIS. Koch's catalog is similarly hit or miss. It takes some real sleuthing to even get a usable p/n for these things sometimes.

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If you use that tool, bleed the system, close the system (bleed valve and master cylinder cap)...how would air enter the system when the piston decompresses?
In TIS, under the slave cylinder removal section, it says:
Quote:
Important:
Slowly relieve tension on clutch slave cylinder otherwise air is drawn in through sealing sleeve.
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Old 12-23-2010, 02:47 PM   #26
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Post rebleed update:
Shifting is about the same at the moment - with the car on and the clutch and brake depressed I can get into some gears if I push the lever too hard and they'll make a reeeaarrwww noise for the second or so I stay in them.

Should I rebleed a different way?
I could try the zany oil can/tube reverse bleed method or the laidback PEI330Ci gravity purge.

May or may not matter: I tried to bleed it by pedal this morning and accidentally ran the fluid right to the edge of the min line, at which point bleed pressure ceased, which made me check the level

BUT after that I made a gasket for the power bleeder to get a good seal and used the Bavauto slave cylinder tool etc etc. and completed the TIS method perfectly and with no leaks.
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Old 12-23-2010, 03:04 PM   #27
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I would start to question whether you have the correct TOB for the UUC clutch you installed.
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Old 12-23-2010, 03:44 PM   #28
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I would start to question whether you have the correct TOB for the UUC clutch you installed.
It was a Sachs that didn't have a pivoting face like the one I took out. I took pictures of it for reference.

Meanwhile I talked to UUC- they suggest taking the slave cylinder off and trying to disengage the clutch with a screwdriver- to determine if the issue is hydraulic or something internal - before proceeding.
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Old 12-23-2010, 04:56 PM   #29
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You can also get a few extra mm of clutch travel by removing the stock "clutch stop" from the floor. Might be a quick easy way to see if a little extra travel will allow the clutch to fully disengage.
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Old 12-23-2010, 05:27 PM   #30
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You can also get a few extra mm of clutch travel by removing the stock "clutch stop" from the floor. Might be a quick easy way to see if a little extra travel will allow the clutch to fully disengage.
Removing that makes it easier to grind gears 1 & 2
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Old 12-23-2010, 06:56 PM   #31
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Well...I hope you get this fixed soon. BTW, we should tag team a clutch troubleshooting and removal DIY...we seem to have gained a lot of recent experience.
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Old 12-23-2010, 07:37 PM   #32
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A year or so ago I ended up abandoning a ClutchMaster FX100 because it would never fully disengage. Switched back to a stock clutch and TOB and haven't had any problems since.
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Old 12-23-2010, 07:37 PM   #33
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Curious:
Does anyone know of anyone who has installed the UUC Performance Organic Clutch Kit in conjuction with a new stock dual mass flywheel?

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BTW, we should tag team a clutch troubleshooting and removal DIY...we seem to have gained a lot of recent experience.
You can say that again!
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Old 12-23-2010, 08:13 PM   #34
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You would need a flat clutch plate with no springs, that makes it almost a stock clutch. I am still in the same boat with clutchmasters, not sure which one it is but it's the basic one from bimmerworld, with a lightwt FW and it had the organic clutch plate. I am thinking like it's not going to work with my BMW either at this point should have went stock.
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Old 12-23-2010, 10:11 PM   #35
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A year or so ago I ended up abandoning a ClutchMaster FX100 because it would never fully disengage.
I remember

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You would need a flat clutch plate with no springs, that makes it almost a stock clutch.
that's what they sent me

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I am still in the same boat with clutchmasters, not sure which one it is but it's the basic one from bimmerworld, with a lightwt FW and it had the organic clutch plate. I am thinking like it's not going to work with my BMW either at this point should have went stock.
Bummer. Is yours a 6 speed?
Me, I have no choice - I gotta upgrade - stock won't hold it.
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Old 12-24-2010, 10:09 AM   #36
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Me, I have no choice - I gotta upgrade - stock won't hold it.
I thought Nick had indicated that a stock clutch held fine with his Stg 1 kit?
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Old 12-24-2010, 10:15 AM   #37
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I thought Nick had indicated that a stock clutch held fine with his Stg 1 kit?
Mine didn't at 70K in Connecticut for whatever reason- plus I might want to go Stage 2 down the road
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Old 12-24-2010, 06:26 PM   #38
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I did notice one thing. I ordered an OEM throwout bearing from Pelican and it did not fit over the bearing shaft. I noticed the Sachs part # was different from the old bearing. Luckily, I ordered one from UUC and it fit fine.
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Old 12-24-2010, 08:03 PM   #39
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I have the 5 speed. I miss my ride.
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Old 12-27-2010, 10:11 PM   #40
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any updates???
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