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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 02-24-2012, 12:58 AM   #1
jjrichar
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Project M54 Engine: Timing tools 1

Timing Tools 1

Links to other parts of the project
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=899347


Before showing my method of making the tools, some of them require you to be accurate. If you are the type of person who hangs a kitchen cupboard door and it's crooked, or you just aren't really careful when you make things, go and buy the real tool. I'm someone who has done serious woodworking for about 20 years. I've got a triple garage at home full of all sorts of tools to make pretty much anything with wood, so making them is relatively simple. However, I'm not at home, and my garden shed where I currently live is for storage only. My workshop is my back deck. My vice is my foot, and unfortunately I don't have access to the basic hardware that you would buy pretty much anywhere in the western world. I have a basic circular saw, a drill, bits and an angle grinder. That's about it. With time, and some care, you should be able to make these tools.



Tool 11 6 150 Vanos adjustment plate

Do you need it: yes
Can you make it: yes

What it looks like.




This is the tool that is mounted where the vanos would normally be. It pushes the splined shafts into the correct position, so that the bolts that hold the timing pieces together can be bolted together in this position.

It is critical that this tool is made accurately. The face that sits against the head must be sanded perfectly flat. When choosing the material to make the tool, it's important to use something that is inert. What I mean by this is something that is not going to change shape with changes in temperature, humidity, etc. Wood is no good. MDF is perfect for the task. Also for this tool, there is going to be some bending force on it as you push it onto the head to do the timing. I used 32mm thick MDF. If I could have found something thicker I would have used it. I was tempted to glue another piece against it to make it as stiff as possible.

When the tool is completed, it is important to set the correct depths of the bolt heads that will rest against the splined shafts. These depths are Intake: 13mm, Exhaust: 3.5mm. Set these as accurately as you can. I'd like to thank m05 for these dimensions. Without these it wouldn't have been possible.

Here is how to make it.




















Tool 11 4 220 Timing chain tensioner

Do you need it: yes
Can you make your own: yes

What it looks like





This is a tool that applies 0.7 nm of torque to the main timing chain guide to ensure the chain is nice and tight when setting up the timing. You might think that just putting in the normal tensioner may work. It doesn't because the spring doesn't apply enough force. The tensioner, when the engine is operating, has oil pressure put into it, so there is much more force on the guide when operating than just the spring.

Here's a picture of what is inside, and how to make your own. Dead easy.






How much torque is 0.7nm? After doing some experimentation, and applying some basic physics, 0.7nm I would describe as being tight but not as tight as you can get when just rotating the normal tensioner by hand. Is the force on the chain guide from 0.7nm on the tensioner the same as 0.7nm using the BMW tool? Probably not, but I don't know not having the original tool and seeing what the thread pitch is etc. My best guide is to turn it in with sufficient force so that the chain has no movement other than rotation when you move the crankshaft.







Tool 11 3 292 Secondary chain tensioner lock pin

Do you need it: yes
Can you make your own: yes

What it looks like





Very simple. Just use a 2 mm drill bit as shown


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Last edited by jjrichar; 02-24-2012 at 10:06 AM. Reason: correction
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:19 AM   #2
sonnybobiche
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I'm well impressed.
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Old 03-15-2012, 12:21 PM   #3
aggieE46
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Nice work.
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Old 03-29-2012, 02:18 PM   #4
Countach500
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Very good job
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Old 09-16-2012, 11:34 PM   #5
Barneyhyphen
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Just a small clarification please.....

flat head surface of INTAKE adjuster bolt to be 13mm sunk in the tool/wood, when measured from the flat face of the wood that mates with the head?

Ditto EXHAUST BUT only 3.50mm?

Thank you.

BH
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:56 AM   #6
JasonSmithed
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this is a good solution. i'm going to have to make the timing plate just to save some money. I wish i had a drill press...
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Old 08-06-2013, 05:01 AM   #7
jjrichar
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All the tools I made on my back deck with a circular saw, hand drill and my foot as a vice. Whilst it would make it a little easier with a drill press, it's definitely not essential.
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:59 PM   #8
Neville Andrews
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Great discription and instructions. It seems the workshops are VERY reluctant to give out this info. I managed to get the dimensions from 1 work shop but they gave me 3.5mm Exhaust and 14mm Inlet. Engine ran fine but had a very touchy throttle just off idle. Diagnostics showed "Exhaust Cam not reaching end posn." and Throttle valve mech. fault. Replaced throttle valve - no help. Re-did Vanos timing this time taking particular care with getting cams EXACTLY square to head and pushing Vanos tool on to face of engine with very slight tension on the secondary cam gear spring plate 10mm bolts (3 per cam) so that some pressure is required to press tool up to face of the head.
Result: now eng. won't idle from cold but if you get the eng. warm by keeping your foot on the throttle car runs fine and no faults on the diagnostics???? Did a software reset of the throttle and no help. So now that I have the new dimension of 13mm for the inlet side I will once again set up the Vanos. Also I have found the following link http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...t-special-tool which also makes sense given that the the Vanos pistons (inside the Vanos unit)are set up with the exhaust piston at it's fully extended posn. and the Inlet fully retracted.
Will let you know how I get on!
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:59 PM   #9
Neville Andrews
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Great discription and instructions. It seems the workshops are VERY reluctant to give out this info. I managed to get the dimensions from 1 work shop but they gave me 3.5mm Exhaust and 14mm Inlet. Engine ran fine but had a very touchy throttle just off idle. Diagnostics showed "Exhaust Cam not reaching end posn." and Throttle valve mech. fault. Replaced throttle valve - no help. Re-did Vanos timing this time taking particular care with getting cams EXACTLY square to head and pushing Vanos tool on to face of engine with very slight tension on the secondary cam gear spring plate 10mm bolts (3 per cam) so that some pressure is required to press tool up to face of the head.
Result: now eng. won't idle from cold but if you get the eng. warm by keeping your foot on the throttle car runs fine and no faults on the diagnostics???? Did a software reset of the throttle and no help. So now that I have the new dimension of 13mm for the inlet side I will once again set up the Vanos. Also I have found the following link http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...t-special-tool which also makes sense given that the the Vanos pistons (inside the Vanos unit)are set up with the exhaust piston at it's fully extended posn. and the Inlet fully retracted.
Will let you know how I get on!
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Old 06-18-2015, 12:32 PM   #10
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Hi,

this is a very useful thread. As i consider making such a tool myself, i started a research on the topic and piston distances.

I found a lot of info in Russian forums. There you can also find detailed drawings with exact measures. What i found strange is that they use somewhat different distances. They use 13.8mm for inlet and 3.2mm for exhaust.

More details can be seen here:
http://bmw5erclub.ru/forum/showthrea...t=27620&page=3

here is a video where the tool is used scroll to 17:10


I hope the infos are useful
Cheers _nr_
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:59 AM   #11
zll777
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Hello guys,it seems an interest topic
jjrichar you show very usefull info,really thank you

But which dimensions are correct 13/3.5 or 13.8/3.2?
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Old 08-17-2015, 01:13 AM   #12
zll777
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What do you think if use the VANOS itself like a special tool to mount shafts?
Attach vanos with his gasket and splined shafts get the correct position automatically.
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Old 08-24-2015, 11:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zll777 View Post
What do you think if use the VANOS itself like a special tool to mount shafts?
Attach vanos with his gasket and splined shafts get the correct position automatically.

You can use the vanos if you put a small socket in between the the piston and the big hex locking nut and tighten the face plate use a small open end wrench to tighten the timing chain nuts. I did it this way and ended up getting the kit off eBay for $100 to redo the timing.
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:39 AM   #14
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small socket? what kind of?
Actually I made the wood tool like jjrichar did.Now everething works well
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:43 AM   #15
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And I used depth 13.8 and 3.2 instead of 14 and 3.5. You can use the both of them. doesn't matter, there is tolerance
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:48 AM   #16
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Nice work
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Old 09-13-2015, 11:57 AM   #17
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So, "jjrichar" did u rebuild your engine, if so what issues did u run into?
Anything to watch out for?
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:15 PM   #18
jjrichar
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As it turned out, I didn't rebuild the engine. I was unable to take the engine out of the country due to local laws (I was living in the middle east), so it ended on the scrap heap. I was able to bring back many components that were called 'tools' on the removal inventory, but unfortunately the block and crank didn't make it.
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