Auto leveling problem

Hi

On the way to work this morning, I noticed my passenger xenon headlight leveled hard to the right. I got out and confirmed it was hard to the passenger side. While messing with it at work, I was able to unplug some cords and plug them back and and it eventual went straight, but I don't think it was the cords. I get home and sure enough it's hard right again. Played with the cords again and nothing.

Here's the thing though, through all the cycling attempts, sometimes the fogs would come one for no reason and not turn off when I hit the button. After unplugging the battery, they were fine but the light on the passenger xenon was still to the right. I have the DDM tuning HID kit, but haven't had a problem in over a year.

Any help or tips? I'm gonna try to unplug the fogs and see if that helps.

Thanks

Oh yeah, this is for a 2004 325ci facelift xenons

Anybody think it might be part 63127176068? CONTROL UNIT XENON LIGHT Does this control the adaptive headlights?

#16

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...09&hg=63&fg=05

Bump?

Are these the adaptive headlights you're talking about? There are auto-leveling headlights which move up and down and then there are adaptive headlights which move left and right.

Honestly, I don't know. They would only move up and down since I've owned the car and never noticed any left to right. They CAN move at least right though because some how it reset and went straight for a few hours and then went right again

Something might have gone awry in your LCM or your adaptive headlight modules. I have no personal experience with this system, but it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to start with taking out your headlight and inspecting the motors to see if all is well with them. Maybe it got dislodged?

I'm gonna pull both headlights this week and swap over one part at a time until the problem moves to the other side. Yay.

Ok, so when I start the car, the drivers side goes up and down before it levels and the passenger side stays fixed.

when you first turn lights they should fliker to ajust them selves if not the arm under the car could
be broken i think there is one on front one on back.if you face a wall with lights on then turn stearing
wheel you shoud see lights move side to side if they are working.

Thanks Kib. For some reason they never moved left or right. I never knew they did until the other day.

But in better news... PROBLEM SOLVED. Word to the wise... if you EVER get condensation in your facelifted headlights, immediately remove them and pull the ALC electronics box: Electronics box ALC uncoded 63127189312 or 63126934171. This IS NOT the control module.

#17
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...09&hg=63&fg=05

The design of the headlight will let the condensation trickle down into this "chip" and corrode the pins in the plug. Days prior to the light going crazy, I hit a puddle and had a little condensation. Well it went away and I never thought of it again. Upon pulling the headlight, it was evident as the source.

Sillieidiot has a great write up on removing the headlights. I pulled the headlight and flipped it over. This is where you can expose the part:


The red pointer is pointing at the part. It has three T20 torx screws and unplugs straight out:


Here's the funny part, the numbers on the drivers side box were different than that on the passenger. Hmmm, looks like someone might have had this problem before since the part has been discontinued twice already...


And finally:


Ok, so I put JUST the passenger headlight back in after swapping the part (headlight with original problem) and turned the lights back on BAM! The headlight is straight and narrow again. I went to go scrape as much corrosion off the crappy "chip" and as soon as I touched the middle pin, it fell right off. They were all rusted and luckily, none broke off in the headlight. Now this has only been over the span of a month and it did this much damage.

Now I'm stuck with the decision of putting this "chip" back in the other headlight with a missing pin. I decided to leave it out until the new part arrives and tough it with only one headlight. I turned the car on and both headlights work and they are both straight, so not only did I figure it out, but I get both my headlights until the part arrives!

BTW, the drivers side ALC box was mint. I also have not drove the car yet so I'm not 100% sure that the headlight will work fine without the box.

You just just leave both of them out. Less electronic crap to worry about breaking.

Update. Drove it last night and the headlight worked fine. Turned the car off, hung out, came back and started it and the headlight was blown on the drivers side (Side that didn't have the electronics box reinstalled). Coincidence? Maybe. I did have the cheap DDM bulbs in there for well over a year now. Once the raining stops or if I clear out the garage I will try swapping the bulbs to see what the deal is.

I have had similar problems but mine have been with the left/right movement. I have replaced the ALC box, TWICE, and my car is still cross eyed when I turn. There are a few more parts I can replace (Steering angle sensor, but thats $300). I know if you plug in a blown control box, it wont move any adaptive function (this was the case with mine, just had to make sure its level before plugging in). I wouldnt leave the box off as it seals the headlight, but you could remove the circuit board inside and then re install if you really wanted to. Funny that the headlight I am having problems with is the passenger side as well...

OK, don't run the headlight without the ALC box. You WILL get a headlight bulb warning that, I'm guessing, would need to be turned off at the dealer. If anyone knows how to reset the bulb warnings please let me know.

Update. The headlight warning light went off. Once I get the ALC box, I'm guessing the other light will go away.

I got the new ALC box in and either the part is defective or I need reprogramming. The new part makes the headlight pull outward (left or right). When I swap the new part, the problem follows. This is bullshit.

I'm pretty sure those ALC boxes require coding of some sort.

Were you ever able to fix the problem? I'm currently in the same situation as you and I'm trying to figure out what do to. Thanks for any advice.

Dielectric grease might help the seals!