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Old 04-21-2011, 10:04 AM   #21
McSpeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
I use a cutting lubricant from Walter that you can spray on the bit...helps a ton. Also, I let the bit do the work...putting more pressure just dulls the bit faster...which is a never ending spiral of needing more pressure to cut.
Gotcha

Question- what's the recommended tapping depth for 1/8 NPT?
I've heard that leaving 5-7 threads visible on the tap is the way to do it but it seems like that leaves about half of the threads exposed on the sender (when screwing the sender in by hand without any teflon anyway). Is that desirable? Given the heaviness of the Autometer pressure sender I kind of wanted it to thread as much as possible so as to provide the best support.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joejo9795 View Post
Can it fit M52TU?
Dunno. If it uses the same oil filter cap as the M54, then yes. VAC might know.
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:16 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McSpeed View Post
If the side taps are unfiltered, would a tap near the center of the top be....filtered?
I think so, though even more unsure of whether that would be a good idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by joejo9795 View Post
Can it fit M52TU?
yes, same oil filter, same housing
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Old 04-21-2011, 12:30 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by bluejeansonfire View Post
I think so, though even more unsure of whether that would be a good idea.



yes, same oil filter, same housing
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Old 04-24-2011, 12:57 PM   #24
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Tapping was easy. I used a T wrench from autozone and splashed on some rubbing alcohol every half turn.



The hard part was cleaning the aluminum shavings off. The cap had oil residue in it from when I did the test fitting and aluminum micro-dust was stuck in every nook an cranny. It took a unbelievable hour long repeating campaign of degreaser, alcohol, heat gunning, compressed air, Q-tips, dental picks and paper towels to finally get it all off.

Next I put in the senders with 2 wraps of teflon tape and went for a high rpm drive to make sure the seals were sealed at full heat/oil pressure. After a little weepage I ended up tightening both of them down more.

Then it was time for wiring. These instructions were very helpful: http://www.csua.berkeley.edu/~lleong/vdo_install/

Notes:
1. I used an Add-a-circuit crimped to the three red gauge wires to get switched power to the gauges. Also, each red wire was given a separate inline Littlefuse per Autometer's instructions.

2. I couldn't get the dimmable face lighting to work by splicing into the ash tray light's positive wire (the non brown one?). Whenever it was attached the gauges went crazy and turned on and off every second displaying weird numbers. I decided I was happy with the red digital numbers anyway and left those wires unconnected.

3. The wideband connector was too big for the usual nipple firewall entry point so I used the larger grommet nearby and popped out the sound insulation knockout with a long screw driver. This larger opening was way easier with all the chunky Autometer connectors.




4. There was a grounding problem with the oil pressure sender initially. It caused the pressure gauge to show a no-sender-connected 'E0' error code if the pressure was below 30 psi:



I read that teflon tape (and oil?) can sometimes prevent a sender from grounding perfectly through its threads and cause this kind of problem. The Autometer instructions suggest grounding to somewhere on the body of the sender in this situation. This is my workaround for the time being:






Everything else was straightforward.
Here's the wiring path until I get around to tubing it up and/or extending it so it doesn't have to pass over the washer fluid tank.



And here's the payoff for staying up till 3AM last night (note that the wideband sensor is not plugged yet so it's just making up AFRs):







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Old 04-24-2011, 02:34 PM   #25
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sick ish! that 3-gauge bezel looks mighty familiar. Everything looks really nice, from the gauges down to the filter cap. One thing I never considered about this cap, that doesn't apply for the metal cap, bolt-through setups is that you have to unthread the senders to change the filter.
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:11 PM   #26
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Thats a huge ugly sensor.....but its functional so I suppose thats all that matters. they have a special teflon type tape that is conductive......
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Old 04-24-2011, 03:33 PM   #27
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Just a tip here:

Run the wires behind the engine and though the fuel rail cover , just remember to heatwrap/sokcet them first
The grounding issue can be solved by soldering a wire to the unit and then clamping a O-clamp on the other end and then connected to the engine hinge nut

Apart from that it looks pretty nice
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:52 PM   #28
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sick ish! that 3-gauge bezel looks mighty familiar. Everything looks really nice, from the gauges down to the filter cap. One thing I never considered about this cap, that doesn't apply for the metal cap, bolt-through setups is that you have to unthread the senders to change the filter.
Thanks. That's the good ole LeatherZ bezel alright. Yeah- I'm not sure why they did the side mount vs. top, but the caps were under development for long enough that there must be a reason...

Quote:
Originally Posted by InDiGlOM3 View Post
Thats a huge ugly sensor.....but its functional so I suppose thats all that matters. they have a special teflon type tape that is conductive......
I don't mind the looks but I do wonder why it has to be freakin humongous. Good to know on the conductive teflon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pir4t View Post
Just a tip here:

Run the wires behind the engine and though the fuel rail cover , just remember to heatwrap/sokcet them first
The grounding issue can be solved by soldering a wire to the unit and then clamping a O-clamp on the other end and then connected to the engine hinge nut

Apart from that it looks pretty nice
Thanks. Smart grounding idea. Going under fuel rail cover would be super clean.

Quote:
Originally Posted by McSpeed View Post
2. I couldn't get the dimmable face lighting to work by splicing into the ash tray light's positive wire (the non brown one?). Whenever it was attached the gauges went crazy and turned on and off every second displaying weird numbers. I decided I was happy with the red digital numbers anyway and left those wires unconnected.
Has anyone else wrassled with the dimming function on Autometer gauge faces?
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Old 04-24-2011, 08:53 PM   #29
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I think you have to grab the dimmer lead from the LCM. That's where I got it for my Defi gauges.
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Old 04-26-2011, 08:10 AM   #30
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Has anyone else wrassled with the dimming function on Autometer gauge faces?
The sensitive LED lighting of these gauges seems to be the issue. Followup here: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...8#post13088908
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Old 04-26-2011, 12:24 PM   #31
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An oil change looks fun.
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Old 02-19-2012, 05:14 PM   #32
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they have a special teflon type tape that is conductive......
Any idea where I could get that tape, InDiGlOM3?
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:46 PM   #33
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Followup:
Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant works awesome. Provides both a solid ground and a perfect seal:

http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/59214.pdf
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:58 PM   #34
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I guess u take this everytime u do oil change? Worried about the threads wear out?
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:05 PM   #35
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Worried about the threads wear out?
nah - brass on billet aluminum - those NPT threads aren't goin anywhere. With the slick sealant and a normal wrench it's a smooth tightening process and you can feel right when they bottom out.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:55 AM   #36
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i was about to do this but that looks like a PITA every time you want to change you're oil filter...
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Old 01-20-2013, 07:02 AM   #37
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eh it's a little more work but it's not bad: detach wires -> clean old sealant out of threads with a paper towel...reapply sealant -> screw senders in till bottom out -> reattach wires.

I'd say it's worth it for the ease of sender install, i.e. better than having a leaky sender block in a nearly unreachable place imo
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:08 AM   #38
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eh it's a little more work but it's not bad: detach wires -> clean old sealant out of threads with a paper towel...reapply sealant -> screw senders in till bottom out -> reattach wires.

I'd say it's worth it for the ease of sender install, i.e. better than having a leaky sender block in a nearly unreachable place imo
Good to see you are still around.
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:51 AM   #39
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likewise
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