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Gun Talk
Are you a gun fanatic as well? If so, you'll want to talk to other owners about what you own in this forum.

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Old 02-24-2012, 09:37 AM   #421
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I was looking around for a Spikes lower last night and I came up with nothing. AIM Surplus and JoeBobsOutfitters are two of their distributors that I usually check.

You can find a bunch of different forged and billet stripped lowers at Ranier Arms too. If you go with BCM, you can only order them as complete lower kits directly from BCM or G&R Tactical. Your other choice is to check some of the large forums to see what people are selling.
Hmm...

You mean someone can't just walk into Spikes in Apopka and buy something off the shelf/factory floor?

I ran some of this stuff by him last night, but he/we haven't decided which way to go yet. I can say that if it were my choice, I'd hunt down a LaRue like an ethiopian looking for bread (poor taste in analogy, I know).

He's got some ideas on stuff he'd like engraved on it (custom roll mark, selector labels, etc.) so it may come down to getting a very basic lower with hardly anything on it and having someone engrave it to what he wants.

I actually may go after a lower myself anyway, seeing as I'll have an extra upper lying around when I get my Form 1 back. I'll end up selling my M&P 15 Sport.
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:04 AM   #422
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The LaRue is nice, no doubt. You can get it here:
http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-billet-lowers

There are plenty of options now for lowers. I am looking at several different models, including the Seekins Precision SP223.
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=sho...roduct_id=1511
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:19 AM   #423
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The LaRue is nice, no doubt. You can get it here:
http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-billet-lowers

There are plenty of options now for lowers. I am looking at several different models, including the Seekins Precision SP223.
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=sho...roduct_id=1511
That Seekins is so nice.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:43 AM   #424
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Reposting this here for future searches, since it's AR-specific.


There are two kinds of non-suppressor muzzle devices: flash hider and muzzle brake.
The A2 birdcage is basically a flash hider. It's not a brake. A flash hider hides the flash of the muzzle. It does very little to mitigate recoil. The top slots in the A2 direct some muzzle energy upward to reduce the rise of the barrel under burst or auto fire. Other flash hiders disburse the gas in all directions. Some work better to reduce recoil, but not by any great amount over the A2 as far as my opinion goes. Flash suppressors are louder than a plain muzzle, but not nearly as loud as most brakes. The muzzle end of the flash suppressor is usually wide open.

In contrast, muzzle brakes are designed to significantly reduce recoil. They usually do this by having large ports on the side or small holes in a pattern. They are sometimes called compensators, or comps. They are commonly called "breaks", but it's a "brake". It slows or stops the recoil impulse, like a brake. Brakes have a closed off front end with a small hole, which forces the gasses to escape to the sides. You will see three types of brakes:

Side port brakes - Things like the Surefire MB556, AAC 18T/51T Brakes, Ops Inc. brakes, and PWS FSC556 are examples. These vent most gasses directly to the side with large ports, and do a very good job at reducing recoil. Very little to no gas is directed upward, which makes these brakes ideal for precision rifle work with a scope. They do not obstruct or obscure the sight picture. These are very loud, and by far the worst to be next to when shooting. You WILL piss off your neighboring shooters with these, as they direct the concussion blast to the sides.
Directional pattern brakes - These include the BattleComp, Knight Arms (KAC) Enhance Compensator Kit and Spike's Tactical Dynacomp. These brakes use multiple small port holes to direct the gas in a specific pattern to reduce recoil. Usually, these brakes will have a 270 degree pattern that blows gas to the side and up, but not down. These are moderately loud, and they put out a decent amount of concussion. However, the blast is more distributed. Of all the brakes, these are the best for flash suppression. For rapid fire, these have the best recoil reduction.
Krink-style brakes - These types of brakes are things like the Noveske KX3, Troy Claymore and PWS CQB Comp. These consist of a progressively widening cone that opens up as it moves away from the barrel. The gas expands evenly, and then is thrown forward. These eliminate most concussion to the sides, and are ideal for CQB use. They are also called "can style brakes", and are specifically designed for short-barrel rifles that tend to have a lot higher amount of muzzle concussion. It throws the blast forward for comfort. There is very poor flash suppression, and the recoil reduction is the lowest out of all brakes. It is a very purpose-driven brake.
Slant brakes - These are just a slant cut over the top, and are not available for ARs. They suck anyways.

Then you have hybrid muzzle devices like the Rainier Arms XTC and AAC Brakeout. These have attributes of both a brake and a flash suppressor. They tend to both moderately well, but are not as good as a specific brake or flash hider.

A good brake will reduce a massive amount of felt recoil. There are brakes for every use. Personally, I'm not a fan of flash hiders as they don't do a lot for what I need them for, but to each their own. Probably more info than you needed, but that's just how I roll.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:13 AM   #425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reedo302 View Post
Reposting this here for future searches, since it's AR-specific.


There are two kinds of non-suppressor muzzle devices: flash hider and muzzle brake.
The A2 birdcage is basically a flash hider. It's not a brake. A flash hider hides the flash of the muzzle. It does very little to mitigate recoil. The top slots in the A2 direct some muzzle energy upward to reduce the rise of the barrel under burst or auto fire. Other flash hiders disburse the gas in all directions. Some work better to reduce recoil, but not by any great amount over the A2 as far as my opinion goes. Flash suppressors are louder than a plain muzzle, but not nearly as loud as most brakes. The muzzle end of the flash suppressor is usually wide open.

In contrast, muzzle brakes are designed to significantly reduce recoil. They usually do this by having large ports on the side or small holes in a pattern. They are sometimes called compensators, or comps. They are commonly called "breaks", but it's a "brake". It slows or stops the recoil impulse, like a brake. Brakes have a closed off front end with a small hole, which forces the gasses to escape to the sides. You will see three types of brakes:

Side port brakes - Things like the Surefire MB556, AAC 18T/51T Brakes, Ops Inc. brakes, and PWS FSC556 are examples. These vent most gasses directly to the side with large ports, and do a very good job at reducing recoil. Very little to no gas is directed upward, which makes these brakes ideal for precision rifle work with a scope. They do not obstruct or obscure the sight picture. These are very loud, and by far the worst to be next to when shooting. You WILL piss off your neighboring shooters with these, as they direct the concussion blast to the sides.
Directional pattern brakes - These include the BattleComp, Knight Arms (KAC) Enhance Compensator Kit and Spike's Tactical Dynacomp. These brakes use multiple small port holes to direct the gas in a specific pattern to reduce recoil. Usually, these brakes will have a 270 degree pattern that blows gas to the side and up, but not down. These are moderately loud, and they put out a decent amount of concussion. However, the blast is more distributed. Of all the brakes, these are the best for flash suppression. For rapid fire, these have the best recoil reduction.
Krink-style brakes - These types of brakes are things like the Noveske KX3, Troy Claymore and PWS CQB Comp. These consist of a progressively widening cone that opens up as it moves away from the barrel. The gas expands evenly, and then is thrown forward. These eliminate most concussion to the sides, and are ideal for CQB use. They are also called "can style brakes", and are specifically designed for short-barrel rifles that tend to have a lot higher amount of muzzle concussion. It throws the blast forward for comfort. There is very poor flash suppression, and the recoil reduction is the lowest out of all brakes. It is a very purpose-driven brake.
Slant brakes - These are just a slant cut over the top, and are not available for ARs. They suck anyways.

Then you have hybrid muzzle devices like the Rainier Arms XTC and AAC Brakeout. These have attributes of both a brake and a flash suppressor. They tend to both moderately well, but are not as good as a specific brake or flash hider.

A good brake will reduce a massive amount of felt recoil. There are brakes for every use. Personally, I'm not a fan of flash hiders as they don't do a lot for what I need them for, but to each their own. Probably more info than you needed, but that's just how I roll.
Great post. I'm actually really curious to see how much louder my rifle gets when I take the A2 off and throw on the new AAC brake I got for my suppressor. They only made 100 of these bad boys for the SPR/M4.

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Old 03-05-2012, 01:22 AM   #426
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That AAC SPR brake is supposed to be pretty cool. I was considering the shorty non-suppressor version, but was not able to get one.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:28 AM   #427
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Sent in the paperwork yesterday for an sbr lower. my local gun shop manufacturers their lowers so I believe he filled it out on a form 2 so they are the manufacturer of it and I dont have to worry about engraving gf "lent"me the money to buy it as a present.


now I have 6 months to figure out the lower parts and the upper. Thinking about going with either a .300 black out 10" noveske suppressed or a 10.5" noveske upper suppressed with switchblock. still need to decide on 10-12.5 inch. Will be used for mostly 100 yrds and 200 sometimes.

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Old 03-10-2012, 01:50 PM   #428
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SWEET!

I would push for the 10.5". It's lots of fun. If you plan on the rifle being primarily for range use, 5.56 is the best way to go. It's the easiest to buy and cheapest as well. Less cost means more rounds downrange.

The .300BLK is a great load, and we're starting to see more ammunition coming to market. As of right now, the practice ammo has gotten down to $12.49/box of 20, which is a huge decrease in cost over the past year. I suspect we'll see it down to $10/box or so by the end of the year, since there are more manufacturers making it as we speak. I'm not sure it's the time to get that caliber just yet, unless you're getting it for a specific purpose. If it's for duty, home defense specifically, hunting (popular hog caliber), etc, it's the ideal cartridge. If you reload, it's an excellent cartridge since you literally re-neck and cut down 5.56 brass to make this ammo. If you don't reload, I don't think it's time to buy that round yet, unless you need it for duty or hunting. Just my $0.02. YMMV

Southwest Ammunition - .300BLK 147gr FMJ
http://www.southwestammunition.com/p.../300blk147.htm
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Old 03-10-2012, 02:19 PM   #429
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Sounds like I'm going to be going for a 10.5" noveske w/ switchblock(unless I decide to go with a lighter build) in 5.56 since I don't reload at all(don't plan on it anytime soon) and have already started stocking 5.56. It's just going to be a range toy/HD. No hunting with it. Any other barrels/set ups you would recommend in 10.5" for running suppressed.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Reedo302 View Post
SWEET!

I would push for the 10.5". It's lots of fun. If you plan on the rifle being primarily for range use, 5.56 is the best way to go. It's the easiest to buy and cheapest as well. Less cost means more rounds downrange.

The .300BLK is a great load, and we're starting to see more ammunition coming to market. As of right now, the practice ammo has gotten down to $12.49/box of 20, which is a huge decrease in cost over the past year. I suspect we'll see it down to $10/box or so by the end of the year, since there are more manufacturers making it as we speak. I'm not sure it's the time to get that caliber just yet, unless you're getting it for a specific purpose. If it's for duty, home defense specifically, hunting (popular hog caliber), etc, it's the ideal cartridge. If you reload, it's an excellent cartridge since you literally re-neck and cut down 5.56 brass to make this ammo. If you don't reload, I don't think it's time to buy that round yet, unless you need it for duty or hunting. Just my $0.02. YMMV

Southwest Ammunition - .300BLK 147gr FMJ
http://www.southwestammunition.com/p.../300blk147.htm
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Old 03-10-2012, 03:14 PM   #430
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and heres the lower. Its on a form 2 and will be registered in 9mm/5.56/300blackout

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Old 03-10-2012, 04:55 PM   #431
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Nice Adam! Glad she lent you the money for the lower.

I picked up another Battlecomp 2.0 for my 16" rifle (FYI - $140 plus free shipping at AIM Surplus with a coupon code) and had it installed by a local old timer gunsmith. Since I ordered a suppressor, they need to be Rocksetted on and I didn't have any and I've never timed a muzzle device using peel washers. The guy was great. He invited my wife and I for a "coffee break" when a bunch of other old timers started arriving to sit around and chat. It was a 40 mile drive, but well worth it. He was also selling 50cal ammo cans for $10 so I picked up a couple extra.

Can we talk a little more about the choice of buffer and spring weight. That is a part of the system that still confuses me. Specifically - when/why to choose a heavier spring over a heavier buffer and vice versa. I've been reading quite a bit about it, and I've read quite a few people saying that they want the lowest possible weight buffer (carbine) and are pairing with a heavier spring like the Sprinco Blue or even Red.

What is the formula for choosing the best combination?
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:38 PM   #432
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Any other barrels/set ups you would recommend in 10.5" for running suppressed.
Noveske's switch-block is by far the best option on the market for a DI suppressor setup. LaRue's block on the OBR is a great system as well, but you have to buy the whole thing for that.
I like the Noveske. You're getting a top notch setup. What's even cooler is the custom rail setup that allows you to operate the switchblock. Were you looking at the SS barrel or the chrome hammer forged barrel setup?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Serbonze View Post

Can we talk a little more about the choice of buffer and spring weight. That is a part of the system that still confuses me. Specifically - when/why to choose a heavier spring over a heavier buffer and vice versa. I've been reading quite a bit about it, and I've read quite a few people saying that they want the lowest possible weight buffer (carbine) and are pairing with a heavier spring like the Sprinco Blue or even Red.

What is the formula for choosing the best combination?
The formula is either experience or trial-and-error. The faster the timing, the more weight you need behind the bolt to slow it down. You can start with either a heavier duty spring on a carbine buffer, or an H buffer and standard spring. I prefer the H buffer or heavier in all carbines.
Here's how I would generally break it down:

16": H buffer or extra power blue spring
14.5": H buffer or extra power blue spring
12.5": H buffer with extra power blue spring
11.5": H2 buffer with extra power blue spring
10.5": H2 buffer with extra power red spring
<10": H3 or higher with extra power red spring, or VLTOR A-5 with H5/6/7

This is a general list of places to start, but I it's not universally true. Each rifle is different, so you have to monitor the rifle to see what you need to do to tweak it. I run the H3 and Red recoil spring in my 7.5", and it's still running too fast. It's reliable, but I may wind up sticking a VLTOR A5 on there with an H5 or H6 buffer. My 11.5" is running the H2 with red spring, and it runs perfectly. I think a blue spring would work well, and you could really go either way. A blue spring would be my first choice next time, as I think that would be enough.
However, I will say that once you go to an H2 or heavier buffer, you need to upgrade the spring to get the proper amount of return power to push the bolt back into battery. As you increase mass, you need increased force to rebound.
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:50 PM   #433
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Originally Posted by Reedo302 View Post
Noveske's switch-block is by far the best option on the market for a DI suppressor setup. LaRue's block on the OBR is a great system as well, but you have to buy the whole thing for that.
I like the Noveske. You're getting a top notch setup. What's even cooler is the custom rail setup that allows you to operate the switchblock. Were you looking at the SS barrel or the chrome hammer forged barrel setup?



The formula is either experience or trial-and-error. The faster the timing, the more weight you need behind the bolt to slow it down. You can start with either a heavier duty spring on a carbine buffer, or an H buffer and standard spring. I prefer the H buffer or heavier in all carbines.
Here's how I would generally break it down:

16": H buffer or extra power blue spring
14.5": H buffer or extra power blue spring
12.5": H buffer with extra power blue spring
11.5": H2 buffer with extra power blue spring
10.5": H2 buffer with extra power red spring
<10": H3 or higher with extra power red spring, or VLTOR A-5 with H5/6/7

This is a general list of places to start, but I it's not universally true. Each rifle is different, so you have to monitor the rifle to see what you need to do to tweak it. I run the H3 and Red recoil spring in my 7.5", and it's still running too fast. It's reliable, but I may wind up sticking a VLTOR A5 on there with an H5 or H6 buffer. My 11.5" is running the H2 with red spring, and it runs perfectly. I think a blue spring would work well, and you could really go either way. A blue spring would be my first choice next time, as I think that would be enough.
However, I will say that once you go to an H2 or heavier buffer, you need to upgrade the spring to get the proper amount of return power to push the bolt back into battery. As you increase mass, you need increased force to rebound.
Havent decided on chf or ss barrel yet. My noveske ss barrel is heavy but I love how it shoots.


My Other rifle I'm running a 16" ss noveske barrel, spikes h2 buffer with combat trigger and jp yellow springs. I was getting a few light strikes last time i went shooting. Before I swap to jp red springs I threw in a new colt buffer spring. Do you think a red or blue extra power spring will help it run better? Maybe I'll order one today and try it out.
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:38 PM   #434
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My Other rifle I'm running a 16" ss noveske barrel, spikes h2 buffer with combat trigger and jp yellow springs. I was getting a few light strikes last time i went shooting. Before I swap to jp red springs I threw in a new colt buffer spring. Do you think a red or blue extra power spring will help it run better? Maybe I'll order one today and try it out.
For a 16", if you're already running an ST-T2, you would not need an extra power spring unless you are getting over-gassed from suppressor. If you are, go with the blue spring.
For the 10.5", I would recommend running an H2 or ST-T2 and Red spring; especially if you're running suppressed.

As far as the JP yellow springs, light primer strikes are common with that. I have the JP original trigger kit, which is yellow trigger and hammer springs, and I get light primer strikes too. It's a competition spring setup designed for reduced recoil setups. The only way to reduce light primer strikes is to go to a heavier hammer spring. The JP Reliability Enhanced kit is probably a better step to increase reliable primer strikes, since it goes to the gray standard power hammer spring. You go up to 4lbs from 3.5lbs of trigger weight.
http://jprifles.com/1.4.8.3_spring.php

Go up one step from where you are at.
The thing that sucks about single-stage triggers is that the lighter you go, the lighter the primer strike. 2-Stage triggers are able to generate a little more force with less trigger pull weight due to the different geometry.
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:47 PM   #435
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Havent decided on chf or ss barrel yet. My noveske ss barrel is heavy but I love how it shoots.


My Other rifle I'm running a 16" ss noveske barrel, spikes h2 buffer with combat trigger and jp yellow springs. I was getting a few light strikes last time i went shooting. Before I swap to jp red springs I threw in a new colt buffer spring. Do you think a red or blue extra power spring will help it run better? Maybe I'll order one today and try it out.
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Old 03-12-2012, 01:46 PM   #436
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Nice list, thanks Reed.

While I was trying to learn about the different combinations, I found a thread discussing buffer and springs and found a weird pic:



Any idea what is going on with that? The thread just kind of stopped with no resolution.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:05 PM   #437
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Did they mention anything about slow bolt speed or bolt short-stroking? Or anything about the extractor spring? That looks like it would be a weak extractor, or slow bolt speed.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:41 PM   #438
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Nope. Apparently it was functioning fine, but was hitting the deflector in a weird spot.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:38 PM   #439
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Goofy. If they replaced the ejector spring and went to an upgraded extractor spring/instert/o-ring setup, they'd probably mitigate the issue. Still, if it ain't broke, don't fix it I guess.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:57 PM   #440
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I need a recommendation on a decent sling for my AR. It doesn't have to be too fancy and I'd like to keep the price reasonable. I'm working from home a lot and will be moving my office to my basement, so my go to gun if something goes bump upstairs will be my AR. The safe is not too far, so it makes sense to me to get setup with easy access, etc.

I'd like the least complicated configuration I can get.
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