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Gun Talk
Are you a gun fanatic as well? If so, you'll want to talk to other owners about what you own in this forum.

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Old 08-23-2011, 03:14 PM   #101
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Does anyone have any opinions on Stag AR's? Are they decent as far as entry level AR's go?
I think the link is somewhere in this thread, but there is a great comparative AR buying thread on officerforums (something like that).

The net result is that CMMG is the way to go for entry level.

There are others that are good too, but everyone has their own opinion on the matter. I ended up with a Rock River and like it a lot for my needs.
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Old 08-23-2011, 04:24 PM   #102
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Also got some magpul XTM rail covers along with a battlecomp 2.0 compensator. My good friend said it's a must.

I'm running a BC 1.0 and it's an absolutely phenomenal and mind-blowing comp. It is probably one of the loudest comps I've ever used, but the trade-off is virtually no felt recoil. My gun does NOT move during rapid fire.




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Does anyone have any opinions on Stag AR's? Are they decent as far as entry level AR's go?
Stag is the commercial production wing of CMT. Very good rifles. If I were considering getting an entry-level AR, Stag would be on my short list.
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:11 PM   #103
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:-)
shiet curtis, would never want to piss you off when that rifle with the beyonet is nearby
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:13 PM   #104
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I'm running a BC 1.0 and it's an absolutely phenomenal and mind-blowing comp. It is probably one of the loudest comps I've ever used, but the trade-off is virtually no felt recoil. My gun does NOT move during rapid fire.




.
Good to hear! So I assume it's much louder than stock? Was it a hard install? I know battlecomp recommends a gunsmith to do the install. Not sure if I'm up to the task. Haven't really fiddled around with the inner workings of the gun. Just field strip it.

also what rail covers do you use?
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:52 PM   #105
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Good to hear! So I assume it's much louder than stock? Was it a hard install? I know battlecomp recommends a gunsmith to do the install. Not sure if I'm up to the task. Haven't really fiddled around with the inner workings of the gun. Just field strip it.

also what rail covers do you use?
It is significantly louder than an A2 flash hider. To be fair, most comps and brakes are going to be louder; the BC just happens to be among the loudest. If you're running an SBR, expect to be blowing some concussion sideways, which will not make people shooting next to you very happy.
The gunsmith recommendation is to ensure proper installation. It's easy thought. Put on the crush washer, then the comp, and then tighten to the minimum torque spec (don't have the spec in front of me, but it's around 25-30ft-lbs). Once at minimum spec, you then need to "time" the comp by turning/tightening it until the closed off bottom portion of the comp is directly on the bottom. You can tune some comps/brakes to eject in certain directions to accommodate your shooting style, but some like the BC are meant to be tuned only one way. People have a tendency to not do this if they don't know what they're doing.
Also, if you are using a crush washer, you can over-tighten the comp trying to get it timed right. My BC 1.0 came with a crush washer, but I've heard that they ship some with spacer shims. Spacer shims allow you to attach the brake without over-torquing it.

AAC also sells shims for $5.
http://www.advanced-armament.com/product.aspx?pid=719
Quote:

This is the kit you need for timing the installation of your muzzle device. Don't risk misalignment by using a crush washer.

This set is for any 5.56 mm applications. Can also be used to level really small tables, clean under your fingernails, or substitute for coins in really stupid vending machines. For other calibers, see below in the Other Products section.


The rail panels are TangoDown SCAR Panels. They have a little bit more grip than the standard rail covers, but don't have the ribbing, which give some grip surface to the standard panels. The material is fantastically heat resistant. I recently shot 500rds out of my CQBR in about 4 hours, and that sucker got hot. I had to put on gloves because the heat coming through the vents of the rail was starting to hurt my hand. The panels were warm to the touch, but not burning. Definitely a good investment if you shoot high a high volume of ammo.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:18 AM   #106
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shiet curtis, would never want to piss you off when that rifle with the beyonet is nearby
Haha. I'd love to stab someone with.
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Constatine would of thrown his dildo at the kidnapper and proceed to cry in his closet after said kidnapper escaped.
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:27 AM   #107
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Originally Posted by Reedo302 View Post
It is significantly louder than an A2 flash hider. To be fair, most comps and brakes are going to be louder; the BC just happens to be among the loudest. If you're running an SBR, expect to be blowing some concussion sideways, which will not make people shooting next to you very happy.
The gunsmith recommendation is to ensure proper installation. It's easy thought. Put on the crush washer, then the comp, and then tighten to the minimum torque spec (don't have the spec in front of me, but it's around 25-30ft-lbs). Once at minimum spec, you then need to "time" the comp by turning/tightening it until the closed off bottom portion of the comp is directly on the bottom. You can tune some comps/brakes to eject in certain directions to accommodate your shooting style, but some like the BC are meant to be tuned only one way. People have a tendency to not do this if they don't know what they're doing.
Also, if you are using a crush washer, you can over-tighten the comp trying to get it timed right. My BC 1.0 came with a crush washer, but I've heard that they ship some with spacer shims. Spacer shims allow you to attach the brake without over-torquing it.

AAC also sells shims for $5.
http://www.advanced-armament.com/product.aspx?pid=719




The rail panels are TangoDown SCAR Panels. They have a little bit more grip than the standard rail covers, but don't have the ribbing, which give some grip surface to the standard panels. The material is fantastically heat resistant. I recently shot 500rds out of my CQBR in about 4 hours, and that sucker got hot. I had to put on gloves because the heat coming through the vents of the rail was starting to hurt my hand. The panels were warm to the touch, but not burning. Definitely a good investment if you shoot high a high volume of ammo.
Thanks a million! Battle comp told me that it comes with peel washers, and that's what I'm going to use. Is there a special tool I need to tighten them? Or can I just use a torque wrench with a socket? As for timing it, you just have to make sure the battle comp symbol is at the 6 o'clock position correct? Lastly, not sure what you mean with the section I highlighted.

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Haha. I'd love to stab someone with.
h0mo?
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:52 AM   #108
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Thanks a million! Battle comp told me that it comes with peel washers, and that's what I'm going to use. Is there a special tool I need to tighten them? Or can I just use a torque wrench with a socket? As for timing it, you just have to make sure the battle comp symbol is at the 6 o'clock position correct? Lastly, not sure what you mean with the section I highlighted.



h0mo?
You know I was talking about you.
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Constatine would of thrown his dildo at the kidnapper and proceed to cry in his closet after said kidnapper escaped.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:07 AM   #109
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Originally Posted by M3_POWER View Post
Thanks a million! Battle comp told me that it comes with peel washers, and that's what I'm going to use. Is there a special tool I need to tighten them? Or can I just use a torque wrench with a socket? As for timing it, you just have to make sure the battle comp symbol is at the 6 o'clock position correct? Lastly, not sure what you mean with the section I highlighted.
Peel washers work great. I think they are moving to the washer shims from the crush washers with a lot of their new stuff. Ideally, you want to use an armorer's wrench that you can attach a torque wrench to. You can't use a socket, you have to use a 3/4" cutout on the armorer's wrench. In a pinch, you can use a 3/4" crescent wrench, but then you won't have the ability to gauge torque unless you have a 3/4" drive torque wrench that you can stick in the other end.
Ideally, the comp should be tightened between 25-30ft-lbs. If you go slightly over, no biggie, but try to be no more than around 35-40ft-lbs. The installation and timing process is sort of hit/miss. With the washer/shim system, you put the brake on without the shims and hand tighten down until it stops. You then back it off just enough to make sure the BC logo is directly at 6 o'clock. Use shims to measure the gap, and select the shims that just barely "over fill" the gap. Then, take off the comp, put on the shims, and then screw in the comp with your hand. It should stop just shy of being properly tuned. I've found that if I'm within ~1/4 of a turn, you're about there. You should have to torque it a little bit to get it timed correctly. BC should have instructions with it, and they're probably something similar to that.

The highlighted section refers to certain compensators that eject out of only certain sides. ARs have a tendency to move to the right when shot, so you can aim the ports in certain directions through timing to help counter the recoil and prevent it from pulling right.
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Old 08-25-2011, 03:54 PM   #110
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Just delivered my bushnell "T" dot scope.

And then a picture of my current selection. Waiting for the looters this weekend after hurricane Irene rolls through. Haha
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Old 08-25-2011, 05:12 PM   #111
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Just delivered my bushnell "T" dot scope.

And then a picture of my current selection. Waiting for the looters this weekend after hurricane Irene rolls through. Haha
No kidding. Great time to get yourself ready to go with a rifle.
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:57 AM   #112
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Any suggestions for a round in 55g or 62g for target work? I use XM193 for general purpose stuff, but I'm sure there is something better out there for accuracy.
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:53 PM   #113
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Peel washers work great. I think they are moving to the washer shims from the crush washers with a lot of their new stuff. Ideally, you want to use an armorer's wrench that you can attach a torque wrench to. You can't use a socket, you have to use a 3/4" cutout on the armorer's wrench. In a pinch, you can use a 3/4" crescent wrench, but then you won't have the ability to gauge torque unless you have a 3/4" drive torque wrench that you can stick in the other end.
Ideally, the comp should be tightened between 25-30ft-lbs. If you go slightly over, no biggie, but try to be no more than around 35-40ft-lbs. The installation and timing process is sort of hit/miss. With the washer/shim system, you put the brake on without the shims and hand tighten down until it stops. You then back it off just enough to make sure the BC logo is directly at 6 o'clock. Use shims to measure the gap, and select the shims that just barely "over fill" the gap. Then, take off the comp, put on the shims, and then screw in the comp with your hand. It should stop just shy of being properly tuned. I've found that if I'm within ~1/4 of a turn, you're about there. You should have to torque it a little bit to get it timed correctly. BC should have instructions with it, and they're probably something similar to that.

The highlighted section refers to certain compensators that eject out of only certain sides. ARs have a tendency to move to the right when shot, so you can aim the ports in certain directions through timing to help counter the recoil and prevent it from pulling right.
Thank again! Installed my BC today and it was easier than expected. After trial and error, three medium washers seemed to do the trick. Had to tighten it with the wrench a 1/4 turn as you said. Do you have to gnats ass the timing? Mine is pretty dead on, but may be off be a hair if at all. I can't make it perfect by eye balling it.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:20 PM   #114
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Any suggestions for a round in 55g or 62g for target work? I use XM193 for general purpose stuff, but I'm sure there is something better out there for accuracy.
XM193 is capable of 4MOA out of a typical carbine, which meets the mil standard. XM193 is capable of better than that out of accurate rifles. I think it can do 1.5 MOA. ASYM and Southwest Ammunition both have an accurate 55gr range round that likely will do better. M855 has the same accuracy. If you want accurate 62gr loads, look for Mk318 SOST ammo from Federal/Lake City. It is a match 62gr BTHP combat/DMR round made for the Marine Corps.

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Thank again! Installed my BC today and it was easier than expected. After trial and error, three medium washers seemed to do the trick. Had to tighten it with the wrench a 1/4 turn as you said. Do you have to gnats ass the timing? Mine is pretty dead on, but may be off be a hair if at all. I can't make it perfect by eye balling it.
Just eyeball it. There is a term I love to use that is applicable here: "Close enough for government work."
Just know that it is better to have a slight over-torque as opposed to under-torquing the comp and have it come loose.
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Old 08-31-2011, 11:07 PM   #115
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XM193 is capable of 4MOA out of a typical carbine, which meets the mil standard. XM193 is capable of better than that out of accurate rifles. I think it can do 1.5 MOA. ASYM and Southwest Ammunition both have an accurate 55gr range round that likely will do better. M855 has the same accuracy. If you want accurate 62gr loads, look for Mk318 SOST ammo from Federal/Lake City. It is a match 62gr BTHP combat/DMR round made for the Marine Corps.


Just eyeball it. There is a term I love to use that is applicable here: "Close enough for government work."
Just know that it is better to have a slight over-torque as opposed to under-torquing the comp and have it come loose.
Sounds good! Can't wait to try it out this weekend!
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:33 PM   #116
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Sounds good! Can't wait to try it out this weekend!
I am on lunch break on Day 3 of an EAG Tactical Carbine Operators Course. The BC has been amazing for controlling the weapon. I let a guy shoot my rifle and he is now getting a BC. He was sold on the first shot. You'll be impressed.
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Old 09-03-2011, 07:32 AM   #117
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Still on the fence about buying a complete upper vs building one. Really can't decide which way to go. I do have a local gun forum member who offered to help build my whole rifle with me so tools aren't an issue.
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:37 PM   #118
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I am on lunch break on Day 3 of an EAG Tactical Carbine Operators Course. The BC has been amazing for controlling the weapon. I let a guy shoot my rifle and he is now getting a BC. He was sold on the first shot. You'll be impressed.
I sure hope so! Going out to the range right now.

Added some goodies today.

I really really like the MagPul vertical grip. Compact, light and feels great! I mixed and match every colored offered by magpul with the XTM rail guards. Looks much better in person. Lighting was bad in the house.



Here is the Battle Comp 2.0. Hope I timed it alright...





My UTG case came in as well. Everything fits nicely, and I can hold a lot of shiet in it! I love wearing it as a backpack using the shoulder straps.







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Old 09-03-2011, 12:52 PM   #119
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Still on the fence about buying a complete upper vs building one. Really can't decide which way to go. I do have a local gun forum member who offered to help build my whole rifle with me so tools aren't an issue.
There is NOTHING wrong with buying a complete upper.
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Old 09-03-2011, 01:41 PM   #120
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I was looking at my rifles, and I think that I would like to try to break up the color from all black to something that may help to blend in with the local environment here in Florida. Truth be told, there really isn't anything around here that is all black. So keeping in mind rail covers, grip, stock, pmags, and some paint, what do you think is the best color for Florida?

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