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Old 12-04-2010, 08:05 PM   #1
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Axles, driveshaft, ect.

The last time I hit the drag strip, I think I broke some things in my driveline... Everything was fine for a while afterwords, but slowly things got worse. At first, while making sharp 90 degree turns at intersections and putting the car under a little bit of load, it would feel as if only one wheel was being powered.

I knew something was up, but being the type of person that I am, I kept pushing the car hard.

I went to Mexico and the car was ALL over the place; I wasn't able to get any traction. Again it felt as if only one wheel was being powered.

The next night I went out and tried to do some 60-130 times, even though I knew something was up in the driveline. The car was SCARY, only one wheel was getting power and the car wanted to go sideways. On my way home, I hit a very small pothole and felt something break in the driveline and started to hear a rotating screeching sound.

I parked the car and haven't had a chance to really dig into it and find and fix the issue until this weekend.

Here is the first thing that I found, a shredded center support bearing:







Didn't have the correct hex's to remove the axles, will get to them tomorrow, but the passenger side axle definitely has a lot of play on it. I suspect that it is done for which makes sense since the passenger side tire looks practically brand new, while the driver side tire is nearly bald.

I am pretty sure I am going with the DDS axles and driveshaft
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:11 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSpired View Post
I am pretty sure I am going with the DDS axles and driveshaft
DSS?

sweet!

why doing the driveshaft?

hex?
i think axles are e10 or 12... and well, 36mm 6 or 12point (depepending on the nut you got)
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:18 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejeansonfire View Post
DSS?

sweet!

why doing the driveshaft?

hex?
i think axles are e10 or 12... and well, 36mm 6 or 12point (depepending on the nut you got)
DDS=DriveShaftShop

Why? Because:

A) Once I beef up the axles and get new beefier tires, the next weak link would probably be the driveshaft

B) I feel that the center support bearing will fail again, and I believe (I have to call DDS to make sure) the DDS driveshaft is a one piece unit and doesn't use CSB

C) Might as well do it when I have everything apart
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:29 PM   #4
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Good idea.

Might seem like overkill to some, but we're talking about nearly triple OEM torque through the drivetrain.
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:38 PM   #5
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I kept my axles the weak link in my supra it was cheaper than a tranny
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Old 12-04-2010, 08:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSpired View Post
Why? Because:

A) Once I beef up the axles and get new beefier tires, the next weak link would probably be the driveshaft

B) I feel that the center support bearing will fail again, and I believe (I have to call DDS to make sure) the DDS driveshaft is a one piece unit and doesn't use CSB

C) Might as well do it when I have everything apart
Other than Taza, no one has ever done driveshaft damage in an e46, afaik. And that was a carbon shaft. However, I theorize that the damage he incurred was due to a broken front diff bolt, then tried to launch on crazy bias-ply drag tires. mtran also broke his diff bolt. But his car never did anything but clunk. I think he didn't do damage like Taza due to general lack of grip.

You may very well be right, at the power level you're pushing, the driveshaft is a logical part to become next in line to fail. But I think that before the driveshaft, the diff-mounting is a greater concern. There isn't an aftermarket addressing of the situation for the e46. However, AA makes a great brace for the e36, though I've read that sometimes with that part, the bolt still breaks, just less.

My theories on bearing failure:
a) old and needed replacement
b) rode with a old guibo for too long
c) driveshaft out of balance from impact
d) worn/damaged u-joint causing vibration

I could be wrong, but I really see no evidence that output kills these

but if it's c or d, it warrants a driveshaftshop piece.. do you have any ideas on this?
But, if you're interested, I know where to balance/rebuild the driveshaft or get a warrantied one for 1/3 price of the aftermarket piece

Quote:
Originally Posted by MSpired View Post
DDS=DriveShaftShop
hmm
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:03 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by MSpired View Post
The last time I hit the drag strip, I think I broke some things in my driveline... Everything was fine for a while afterwords, but slowly things got worse. At first, while making sharp 90 degree turns at intersections and putting the car under a little bit of load, it would feel as if only one wheel was being powered.

I knew something was up, but being the type of person that I am, I kept pushing the car hard.

I went to Mexico and the car was ALL over the place; I wasn't able to get any traction. Again it felt as if only one wheel was being powered.

The next night I went out and tried to do some 60-130 times, even though I knew something was up in the driveline. The car was SCARY, only one wheel was getting power and the car wanted to go sideways. On my way home, I hit a very small pothole and felt something break in the driveline and started to hear a rotating screeching sound.
Does your rotating screeching sound sound like a supercharger whine? And it only does it in get under boost? This might be my problem. Let me know
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:05 PM   #8
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I am pretty sure I am going with the DDS axles and driveshaft
With the power the HPF kits are putting down I figured the OEM drivetrain wouldn't hold up.

My driveshaft and axles were sent to DSS by HPF. The driveshaft is a one piece chromoly and the axles are treated and rated up to 1,000 HP. The weak link now will be the transmission and Diff mounting. I'm going to have a shop local to me custom fabricate a "torque arm" for the rear diff.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:10 PM   #9
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With the power the HPF kits are putting down I figured the OEM drivetrain wouldn't hold up.

My driveshaft and axles were sent to DSS by HPF. The driveshaft is a one piece chromoly and the axles are treated and rated up to 1,000 HP. The weak link now will be the transmission and Diff mounting. I'm going to have a shop local to me custom fabricate a "torque arm" for the rear diff.
Mine has held up under 80,000 miles of Hpf abuse so far.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:13 PM   #10
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Does your rotating screeching sound sound like a supercharger whine? And it only does it in get under boost? This might be my problem. Let me know
I think he's talking about the noise of the collapsed dirveshaft not being supported by the bearing
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluejeansonfire View Post
Other than Taza, no one has ever done driveshaft damage in an e46, afaik. And that was a carbon shaft. However, I theorize that the damage he incurred was due to a broken front diff bolt, then tried to launch on crazy 295 bias-ply drag tires. mtran also broke his diff bolt. But his car never did anything but clunk. I think he didn't do damage like Taza due to general lack of grip.

You may very well be right, at the power level you're pushing, the driveshaft is a logical part to become next in line to fail. But I think that before the driveshaft, the diff-mounting is a greater concern. There isn't an aftermarket addressing of the situation for the e46. However, AA makes a great brace for the e36, though I've read that sometimes with that part, the bolt still breaks, just less.

My theories on bearing failure:
a) old and needed replacement
b) rode with a old guibo for too long
c) driveshaft out of balance from impact
d) worn/damaged u-joint causing vibration

I could be wrong, but I really see no evidence that output kills these

but if it's c or d, it warrants a driveshaftshop piece.. do you have any ideas on this?
But, if you're interested, I know where to balance/rebuild the driveshaft or get a warrantied one for 1/3 price of the aftermarket piece


hmm
I agree with you, there isn't much evidence that the OEM driveshaft can't handle the power, and the CSB could have been on it's way out already, especially since I have beat on my car since I bought it new.

But, I do think that hard launches, which cause a lot of flex in the driveline might have caused the CSB to fail and I can see it happening it again if I want to continue driving the way I do... I'd rather just fix it right, right now, rather than have to worry about it breaking again.
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:12 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by faelar View Post
With the power the HPF kits are putting down I figured the OEM drivetrain wouldn't hold up.

My driveshaft and axles were sent to DSS by HPF. The driveshaft is a one piece chromoly and the axles are treated and rated up to 1,000 HP. The weak link now will be the transmission and Diff mounting. I'm going to have a shop local to me custom fabricate a "torque arm" for the rear diff.
Very interested in the torque arm, keep me updated as I might be interested in having your shop just make me one at the same time.
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:19 PM   #13
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Mine has held up under 80,000 miles of Hpf abuse so far.
Then your not launching the car hard enough

IF you ain't breaking stuff you ain't driving it hard enough.
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:20 PM   #14
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Very interested in the torque arm, keep me updated as I might be interested in having your shop just make me one at the same time.
Will do.
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:40 PM   #15
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Then your not launching the car hard enough

IF you ain't breaking stuff you ain't driving it hard enough.
Haha


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Old 12-04-2010, 11:47 PM   #16
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did you take it apart for fun or did you break it? I don't see any obviously damaged parts
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Old 12-04-2010, 11:55 PM   #17
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I agree with you, there isn't much evidence that the OEM driveshaft can't handle the power, and the CSB could have been on it's way out already, especially since I have beat on my car since I bought it new.

But, I do think that hard launches, which cause a lot of flex in the driveline might have caused the CSB to fail and I can see it happening it again if I want to continue driving the way I do... I'd rather just fix it right, right now, rather than have to worry about it breaking again.
Considering the reports on bf.c regarding driveshaftshop driveshafts, I would try to stick to the stock part. I mean, unless you replace the guibo for a solid piece, you'll still need to replace it, I think wear items on the driveshaft aren't a big deal anymore (I can't account for the number of guibos i have gone through, i can do a range, 15-20). The csb is a cheap and easy part to replace. To replace it, just remove guibo, drop csb, one bolt! I don't think anyone has complained about the halfshafts. The driveshafts are known to wobble wildly, even when rebalanced several times over.
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:00 AM   #18
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Considering the reports on bf.c regarding driveshaftshop driveshafts, I would try to stick to the stock part. I mean, unless you replace the guibo for a solid piece, you'll still need to replace it, I think wear items on the driveshaft aren't a big deal anymore (I can't account for the number of guibos i have gone through, i can do a range, 15-20). The csb is a cheap and easy part to replace. To replace it, just remove guibo, drop csb, one bolt! I don't think anyone has complained about the halfshafts. The driveshafts are known to wobble wildly, even when rebalanced several times over.
Any links about what you are referring to?

Easy if you have a lift... I hate working on the ground
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Old 12-05-2010, 12:05 AM   #19
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Any links about what you are referring to?

Easy if you have a lift... I hate working on the ground
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=dss
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Old 12-05-2010, 01:15 AM   #20
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Very interested in the torque arm, keep me updated as I might be interested in having your shop just make me one at the same time.
Same here Faelar
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