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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 09-23-2014, 10:01 PM   #1
ozonekilla
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E46 compression test results

i finally got around to perform a compression test i tested it 3 times

the first time i tested it only removing the spark plug i was testing leaving the other in theses were my results

cyl1: 105
cyl2 97
cyl3 112
cyl4 120
cyl5 120
cyl6 135

i performed the 2nd test taking out all the spark plugs

cyl1 135
cyl2 111
cyl3 120
cyl4 140
cyl5 0 (i restested and got 120)
cyl 6 150

the 3rd time i left all the spark plugs out but this time i held down the gas as i cranked the engine

cyl1 143
cyl2 120
cyl3 125
cyl4 144
cyl5 140
cyl6 150

these numbers do not look good to me as they are not consistent in anyway, what are your thought?
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Old 09-23-2014, 10:56 PM   #2
Rob43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozonekilla View Post
i finally got around to perform a compression test i tested it 3 times

the first time i tested it only removing the spark plug i was testing leaving the other in theses were my results

cyl1: 105
cyl2 97
cyl3 112
cyl4 120
cyl5 120
cyl6 135

i performed the 2nd test taking out all the spark plugs

cyl1 135
cyl2 111
cyl3 120
cyl4 140
cyl5 0 (i restested and got 120)
cyl 6 150

the 3rd time i left all the spark plugs out but this time i held down the gas as i cranked the engine

cyl1 143
cyl2 120
cyl3 125
cyl4 144
cyl5 140
cyl6 150

these numbers do not look good to me as they are not consistent in anyway, what are your thought?
Clearly cyl. 2 is down a little, was this a wet test or a dry test ? The other thing is even though you held down the throttle in test three (3), it probably wasn't open (correct me if I'm wrong). If I remember, you must actually hold open the DBW throttle with a tool on our motors. Try it one more time if I'm correct on the DBW issue.

In the end, I wouldn't bother with a fix or tear down because it's not really that horrible & it's not a race car. Just enjoy it until you sell it.


Good luck,
Rob43
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Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!

Last edited by Rob43; 09-23-2014 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:04 PM   #3
ozonekilla
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Quote:
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Clearly cyl. 2 is down a little, was this a wet test or a dry test ? The other thing is even though you held down the throttle in test three (3), it probably wasn't open (correct me if I'm wrong). If I remember, you must actually hold open the DBW throttle on our motors. Try it one more time if I'm correct on the DBW issue.

In the end, I wouldn't bother with a fix or tear down because it's not really that horrible & it's not a race car. Just enjoy it until you sell it.


Good luck,
Rob43
It was a dry test, and yes i think i heard something abt holding the pedal wont work but I seemed to get higher readings. But this is my first time performing this test so I have no idea

well I was having over heating issues. I thought I might have blown a head gasket thus my reason for this test. I took it for a drive today, she drove perfect until I floored it. When I slowed down the temperature begin to rise but went down as I begin to accelerate. I step on it again down the next block again it raised when I slowed this time hotter. Is this because the radiator is not bleed correctly? Or is it that the fan is not working properly so as I accelerate the cold cools the engine?
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:07 PM   #4
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OP is probably doing more harm than good right now.

Either replace the head gasket, replace the motor, or put it back together and drive it.
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Old 09-23-2014, 11:15 PM   #5
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OK, I didn't know you were having a possible motor issue. Find a shop that has the Correct BMW cooling system radiator cap PSI pump up device, then pump your system up to about 17 psi for 15 to 20 minutes. If it holds it's not a head gasket issue, if it drops in pressure get your wallet out.


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Originally Posted by RacerX View Post
Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 09-24-2014, 12:47 AM   #6
ozonekilla
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OP is probably doing more harm than good right now.

Either replace the head gasket, replace the motor, or put it back together and drive it.
How do you figure? My overheating issue was due to a Crack in my radiator so I replaced it myself and upon filling up the expansion tank it just seemed to need more coolant then normal. So I was concerned maybe it was going into the oil. Thus my reason for this compression test
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Old 09-24-2014, 12:48 AM   #7
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Also I got UV dye which I haven't put in yet to confirm that. And the engine is put together and idles perfect

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
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Old 09-24-2014, 12:52 AM   #8
ozonekilla
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Originally Posted by Rob43 View Post
OK, I didn't know you were having a possible motor issue. Find a shop that has the Correct BMW cooling system radiator cap PSI pump up device, then pump your system up to about 17 psi for 15 to 20 minutes. If it holds it's not a head gasket issue, if it drops in pressure get your wallet out.


Rob43
I seen a engine block tester at napa that contains a plastic tube with blue liquid. It's supposed to check for combustion fumes and it turns yellow if it detects something . Which could most likely mean bad head gasket. Should I try this?
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Old 09-24-2014, 01:09 AM   #9
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Properly bleed your cooling system.

Put the heat on highest setting with key in position 2 (run), and open up the bleeder screw on the expansion tank.
Slowly add coolant mixture to tank until no more air comes out.

This car is super finicky when its not bled right.


Also, I would go ahead and throw out your current expansion tank cap.
People slightly overfill their tanks, and the caps don't release excess at a low enough pressure, causing cracked tanks.

Replace with an OEM cap from the 1987-1991 325i, which runs at 1.4 bar instead of 2.0.
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Old 09-24-2014, 01:11 AM   #10
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Also, I would repeat the bleeding process after you've done it once, and driven the car to full operating temperature (thermostat opened up)

If air keeps finding its way into the cooling system, start saving.
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Old 09-24-2014, 10:08 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob43 View Post
OK, I didn't know you were having a possible motor issue. Find a shop that has the Correct BMW cooling system radiator cap PSI pump up device, then pump your system up to about 17 psi for 15 to 20 minutes. If it holds it's not a head gasket issue which means it's either valves or piston rings so get your wallet out. If it drops in pressure get your wallet out.


Rob43
fixed.

OP those numbers don't look good. Drain your oil out and check for the milky appearance. Or check it on the dipstick if you can.
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Old 09-24-2014, 11:41 AM   #12
Rob43
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fixed.

OP those numbers don't look good. Drain your oil out and check for the milky appearance. Or check it on the dipstick if you can.

What do I know.


Rob43
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Rob #43 ITS/ITR/STU, BMW 325I, STU LAP RECORD
SUMMIT POINT WV 1:24:229 S.C.C.A.
(DynoDynamics https:vimeo.com/8486878 Dyno Video)
"Chance Favors The Prepared Mind"

Need Help With Your Nitrous Ambitions ?.....PM ME
Quote:
Originally Posted by RacerX View Post
Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 09-24-2014, 01:07 PM   #13
ozonekilla
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fixed.

OP those numbers don't look good. Drain your oil out and check for the milky appearance. Or check it on the dipstick if you can.
I checked the dipstick it didn't look milky at all, and it's fairly new oil only abt 100 miles. It did seem a little watery tho
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Old 09-24-2014, 01:55 PM   #14
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What do I know.


Rob43
It's a BMW, you generally always have to bring your wallet. Actually it's a common misconception that BMW stands for Bayerische Motoren Werke, in actuality BMW = Brought My Wallet.

Last edited by SamDoe1; 09-24-2014 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 09-24-2014, 01:56 PM   #15
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I checked the dipstick it didn't look milky at all, and it's fairly new oil only abt 100 miles. It did seem a little watery tho
Then it's time to do a pressure test on the cooling system and see where the leak is. Based on your compression test results though I'd wager that you blew the head gasket somewhere between cylinder 2 and 3.

Good luck and god speed.

Last edited by SamDoe1; 09-24-2014 at 01:57 PM.
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