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Old 03-09-2011, 07:31 PM   #61
BreakfastBurrito
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I would think Corrosion Engineering would derive from Material (chemical) E, possibly Mechanical.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:07 PM   #62
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^ You would think as it makes sense. The fact is, most of those who actually go to school and finish an engineering degree go on to be employeed in their field of study as we cannot offer/match what they are truely worth when it comes to salary.

We get those who are lazy, got in a pinch and needed a job ASAP then got sucked into it long term, wanted to stay local to home and this was the closest thing to their study, etc. A good chunk of my education was based around metallurgy...which I obviously didn't retain much of.
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:29 AM   #63
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I bouht a 2002 E46 330XI. I didn't noticed at first that there are some rust spots it was also still winter time and here in michigan when i got it and they use a s..t load of salt. So that maybe also did a lot too it. I washed my car weekly in the car wash and i saw you recomend that anyways so i did something right at least. My question now is. What is the best way to get rid of these nasty rust spots? Anything i can do from home? I don't really want to spend a ton of money and bring it to somebody when i could do it myself.

I hope to hear from you soon so i can start working on it. I don't think anyone wants his BMW to rust away under our asses.

I am sorry if that question came up already it is just alot to read here. Plus the whole hous thing wasn't really my thing. I appologize for that.
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Old 04-12-2011, 11:42 AM   #64
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Well, unless you are a competent person when it comes to paint work and such then sadly the only real route is to have it fixed by a professional. If the rusted spots are in an area you can prep yourself easily enough then you could potentially save some money by doing the sanding and such yourself, ending up just paying for final prep and paint.

I'm sure you could make it work with some DIY sand/paint but it isn't going to look purdy.

An alternative is to make it rust quicker and get to the point it has preforations and then make a claim with BMW NA regarding the corrosion warranty (but I doubt that would be worth the hassle).

It is odd that your facelifted sedan would already be seeing rust, I'm guessing it has been in an accident or had damage to those areas affected?
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:06 PM   #65
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No it has never been in an accident. It is on typical spots like on the door corners and behind the wheels always on corners. Not really noticeable but I now there are there. The car just was always been driven in winters. And dirt roads before. That would explain the rust spots behind the wheels.

Well I guess then I will prep it up but first I need to find a decent paint shop. Do you think they will charge a lot?

Thx for the answer.
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:13 PM   #66
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my e46 stock calipers are prone to rust. would you recommend coating them with some type of chemical/paint to prevent rusting? if so, which kind?
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Old 04-12-2011, 01:01 PM   #67
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No it has never been in an accident. It is on typical spots like on the door corners and behind the wheels always on corners. Not really noticeable but I now there are there. The car just was always been driven in winters. And dirt roads before. That would explain the rust spots behind the wheels.

Well I guess then I will prep it up but first I need to find a decent paint shop. Do you think they will charge a lot?

Thx for the answer.
I'm not too familiar with pricing on this. Best bet is to find some reputable shops and gets quotes, seeing if they will offer any decent price if you were to do the prep versus them doing it. I know some shops have a minimum charge amount to make it worth breaking out the paint gun, etc, so it may just work out to let them do it all. Definitely find a shop that has experience with repairs so you get a good quality job done and it doesn't lead to future problems in the same areas.

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my e46 stock calipers are prone to rust. would you recommend coating them with some type of chemical/paint to prevent rusting? if so, which kind?
You can wirebrush, clean and then paint the areas of the calipers that can be done. Take those areas down to clean metal, clean with paint thinner/surface prep stuff, make sure they have a good profile for paint to stick to (profile: rugged surface/grooves/not smooth) and paint with some tough heat rated stuff. As long as the area to be painted is clean and dry before you apply a coating you will be good until it gets worn off by normal wear (debris, heat, etc).
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:41 AM   #68
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im doing a complete m3 engine swap with my sedan. its a 99 so being over 10 years old there are some tiny bits of rust. what do you suggest i do 2 clean up the bits of rust, and what should i do to prevent the entire undercarrage/body and engine bay from ever getting rust in the future?
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:48 AM   #69
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Body shop for bits of rust on the body panels. They'll either need to clean down to bare metal and restore or patch if the perforation is bad.

Concerning frame/engine bay rust: You can strip down to bare metal, clean properly and then apply a truck bed liner type (Line-X) coating where applicable. Should be tough and last for a good while. Really though, any coating is going to take a beating after several years, so there is no "apply and forget about it for the life of the car" type solutions.
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:06 AM   #70
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Body shop for bits of rust on the body panels. They'll either need to clean down to bare metal and restore or patch if the perforation is bad.

Concerning frame/engine bay rust: You can strip down to bare metal, clean properly and then apply a truck bed liner type (Line-X) coating where applicable. Should be tough and last for a good while. Really though, any coating is going to take a beating after several years, so there is no "apply and forget about it for the life of the car" type solutions.
AWESOME thanks for your reply.. my car wont be going to any shops, however some of my friends are body shop guys, ill have them check out my bits of rust to get some advice.

I thought about using Rino lining or something like that on my entire undercarrage to keep it fresh. does it really need to be stripped down to the bare metal? or can i just clean it reall good after scuffing up the paint to make it stick?

and thanks again for your reply!
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:22 AM   #71
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is this automotive abomination for you?

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Old 09-23-2011, 12:41 PM   #72
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AWESOME thanks for your reply.. my car wont be going to any shops, however some of my friends are body shop guys, ill have them check out my bits of rust to get some advice.

I thought about using Rino lining or something like that on my entire undercarrage to keep it fresh. does it really need to be stripped down to the bare metal? or can i just clean it reall good after scuffing up the paint to make it stick?

and thanks again for your reply!
I wouldnt strip down the entire undercarriage, no. If you were worried about the strength of the frame, I'd do it there though.

The undercarrage spray works well, but on a car of yours age, it is going to be hard to thoroughly clean the entire undercarrage and there is a good enough risk involved with trapping contaminents under the rino lining...which could be worse in the end. I say, let it ride as is and just deal with body panel rust as it comes...the rest is going to cost more that the setup would be worth.

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is this automotive abomination for you?

Haha, I think it's ugly (Mostly, but it's still a statement and I'd probably drive it), but in all truth, that one may have less problems then one that is painted. Painted cars get attached in local spots and thus the effect of corrosion work away at that one cocentrated spot quickly. A car like this will be evenly corroded away and may stand the test of time longer. Local corrosion versus general corrosion.
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:35 PM   #73
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thanks again for all the help, ill take your advise and just fix up the small rust spots and leave everything else alone for now.
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Old 09-23-2011, 07:44 PM   #74
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I used to own a cell phone repair shop and we used a very high grade of alcohol to clean followed by a heater/flux for reflowing motherboards, my question is what is the best store bought cleaner I can use ? right now I'm using some random radio shack electrical cleaner it works pretty good but didn't know if you could think of any other better choices.
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I road in my buddies with 350hp and he switched highways at wot scared tge piss out of me felt as fast other bodies 500hp supra awesome car they are rare hopefully they will bring them back rx8s r ok but I don't like tge rear doors and odd shape and lackbof turbos
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:43 PM   #75
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this has been an interesting thread. how corrosion resistant are zinc screws/nails compared to electro-galvanized screws/nails? also electro-galvanized vs. hot dipped galvanized, who is better?
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:13 AM   #76
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this has been an interesting thread. how corrosion resistant are zinc screws/nails compared to electro-galvanized screws/nails? also electro-galvanized vs. hot dipped galvanized, who is better?
your door pannels look sick! any more pics of your interior? pm me a link if there is one... i dont wanna pallute this thread
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:35 AM   #77
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Does plastic and rubber rust? If so, how can I prevent it?
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:45 PM   #78
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in theory if i was up north and wanted to set up a cathodic protection system on my car how would i go about doing so?
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:31 PM   #79
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thanks again for all the help, ill take your advise and just fix up the small rust spots and leave everything else alone for now.
Unless the car is a very unique/rare one (aka pricey/hard to replace) then the cost to try to prevent some corrosion is usually a waste this late in it's life. When purchasing new and wanting a long life, so a Line-X type application. Other then that, just repair in groups as stuff goes...it's usually going to cost the same in the end (Unless you REALLY want the car to last 50+ years).

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Originally Posted by eric_waltrip View Post
I used to own a cell phone repair shop and we used a very high grade of alcohol to clean followed by a heater/flux for reflowing motherboards, my question is what is the best store bought cleaner I can use ? right now I'm using some random radio shack electrical cleaner it works pretty good but didn't know if you could think of any other better choices.
No clue. With circuit boards and such, I'd just guess your biggest enemy is moisture....so something that repels water? I'm just yapping here to be honest.

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Originally Posted by HighPod View Post
this has been an interesting thread. how corrosion resistant are zinc screws/nails compared to electro-galvanized screws/nails? also electro-galvanized vs. hot dipped galvanized, who is better?
Electro-Galvanized wins...I think

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Does plastic and rubber rust? If so, how can I prevent it?
Nope. Plastic and rubbers just break down due to UV or "errosion" type wear. Treat them with something like Gummi Pfledge to help extend their life or keep out of sun or deal with it I guess.

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in theory if i was up north and wanted to set up a cathodic protection system on my car how would i go about doing so?
Doesn't work as there is no electrolyte. The reason they work on boats is because the boat sits in the water. Even then, it only works on those portions of the boat that is submerged. Even THEN, it only protects against the corrosion cell side of the hull and not the wear and tear of waves/barnacles (?)/etc wearing away at the coating.

Keep the car washed after driving on salt. Keep the body waxed and the underneath clean of salt and standing water. Keep drains unplugged, etc.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:30 PM   #80
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Sooo...now I've got 5.5 years of guessing under my belt and the government hired me for their corrosion needs (haha ).

Moved to a new place and am a bit bored for now, so BUMP!
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