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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 03-17-2011, 10:00 PM   #21
shm21284
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Originally Posted by Iceman00 View Post
I stand corrected, I was looking at the wrong name.
Now that I have you here, what IS the peak numbers? The plot line isn't at peak.
The bar is at peak horsepower. I can't remember what peak torque is. It says 156 hp and I'm guessing 162 lb*ft?

Seth
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Old 03-17-2011, 10:08 PM   #22
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I got some things mixed up. I called Active Auto and they suggested their retune. Turner Motorsport was pushing hard on the shark injector. To me, the retune seems to be the way to go. From the conversation I had with the Turner guy, the shark injector is a somewhat "one size fits all" approach and relies on O2 feedback over time to adapt to the particular bolt on mods of the car.

From my experiences using a standalone, at least on much higher performance rotary engines, air/fuel ratio and (and to a slightly smaller degree, spark advance) is highly dependent on the mods that are done to the engine. The things that affect this are flow restrictions, physical phenomena like scavenging, cam duration, etc. Point being, I have seen a slightly less restrictive throttle body be put on a rotary engine and the previous map that created 12.6:1 AFR was now creating 13.7:1 AFR. To me, that is a large difference which can cause damage with prolonged use.

Although the active auto retune is still a "one size fits some" approach (they have only 1 parameter for aftermarket header, not any parameters like header primary length, convergence angle, neck size, rest of exhaust size), it still seems to be a better choice than the "one size fits all." Of course, I'm not trying to split hairs here.

Seth
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:16 AM   #23
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Completely untrue/
Ok lets try this again .


AA SOFTWEAR.

Through careful remapping to the DME Active Autowerke has increased the horsepower and torque by 15 and 12 respectively. Available for 91-93 octane we now allow you to maximize your car's true potential while maximizing your fuel consumption. Modifications to the a/f, ignition tables, and wide open maps also allow for an overall improved driving experience. With your new increased RPM limit you will be able to enjoy more usable power. With other off road options such as top speed limiter removal and software for cars without cats, Active Autowerke allows you to maximize your car's modifications' true potential. This upgrade is a must for the enthusiast looking to maximize their naturally aspirated car's performance.





THE SHARK INJECTOR


The Shark Injector is an amazing hand-held unit that re-flashes your car with performance software. What really sets this software apart is how easy and effective it is without any further modifications. This software tool re-flashes the stock BMW computer through your carís diagnostic port and was developed by renowned BMW tuner Jim Conforti, who has nearly 20 years of BMW engine tuning experience. The Shark Injector is one of the safest and most cost-effective enhancements you can do Ė offering features and results that other upgrades simply cannot touch. The Shark Injector is also upgrade-able through its own USB port, allowing you to upgrade to different software as your needs and modifications change.

This software is a major refinement of the stock software. It makes the car much easier to drive with less hesitation, more torque, and incredibly smooth operation. A lot of tuning has been done at the low RPM ranges to improve response. The car wonít hesitate or lag, making the car easier to drive. And with the extra torque you can drive in a higher gear and not have to downshift as often. Theoretically this means better fuel mileage too!



Now If youre not convinced I ask you to call TURNER and kindly tell them that youve gone with the ebay header root with a full catback exhaust and a Intake to add to youre mods and ask them If theres a diff , I just got off the phone with one of there sales agent who said It does play a role but It"s not a remap like AA"s soft wear.
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:31 AM   #24
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Or you can do what I do. Find a BMW tuner that has years and years of experience tuning BMWs and is known around the world with his software and quality and try to be friends with him so he can custom tune your car.

It also helps that he lives 20 minutes away from my house.
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Old 03-18-2011, 03:33 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by 323I00 View Post
Ok lets try this again .


AA SOFTWEAR.

Through careful remapping to the DME Active Autowerke has increased the horsepower and torque by 15 and 12 respectively. Available for 91-93 octane we now allow you to maximize your car's true potential while maximizing your fuel consumption. Modifications to the a/f, ignition tables, and wide open maps also allow for an overall improved driving experience. With your new increased RPM limit you will be able to enjoy more usable power. With other off road options such as top speed limiter removal and software for cars without cats, Active Autowerke allows you to maximize your car's modifications' true potential. This upgrade is a must for the enthusiast looking to maximize their naturally aspirated car's performance.





THE SHARK INJECTOR


The Shark Injector is an amazing hand-held unit that re-flashes your car with performance software. What really sets this software apart is how easy and effective it is without any further modifications. This software tool re-flashes the stock BMW computer through your car's diagnostic port and was developed by renowned BMW tuner Jim Conforti, who has nearly 20 years of BMW engine tuning experience. The Shark Injector is one of the safest and most cost-effective enhancements you can do - offering features and results that other upgrades simply cannot touch. The Shark Injector is also upgrade-able through its own USB port, allowing you to upgrade to different software as your needs and modifications change.

This software is a major refinement of the stock software. It makes the car much easier to drive with less hesitation, more torque, and incredibly smooth operation. A lot of tuning has been done at the low RPM ranges to improve response. The car won't hesitate or lag, making the car easier to drive. And with the extra torque you can drive in a higher gear and not have to downshift as often. Theoretically this means better fuel mileage too!



Now If youre not convinced I ask you to call TURNER and kindly tell them that youve gone with the ebay header root with a full catback exhaust and a Intake to add to youre mods and ask them If theres a diff , I just got off the phone with one of there sales agent who said It does play a role but It"s not a remap like AA"s soft wear.
I don't care what they say they'll do, I just want numbers. And unless you can prove (with quantifiable data) that AA software makes more power than Shark, this discussion is over.

Last edited by Iceman00; 03-18-2011 at 03:39 AM.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:03 AM   #26
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I don't care what they say they'll do, I just want numbers. And unless you can prove (with quantifiable data) that AA software makes more power than Shark, this discussion is over.
Brother this Isnt about power Its about tunning.Tunning that will maxmaize youre power gains.

Last edited by 323I00; 03-18-2011 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 03-18-2011, 09:39 AM   #27
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Brother this Isnt about power Its about tunning.Tunning that will maxmaize youre power gains.
If that's the case, then it should be easy to prove.
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Old 03-18-2011, 09:52 AM   #28
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i'm ready to see the dyno
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Old 03-18-2011, 11:15 AM   #29
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Ok inb4stav,

If you're looking for POWER, I'm sorry to sound like the others that will tell you, but get a supercharger man.

To the OP/anyone who would like to read lol. Don't immediately say, "oh he's class of 2010 he knows nothing blah blah like kids say every year" I do my research before posting.

-Let's think about it, you bought ebay headers: $150-200 (Unless you're installing yourself, that's another $300 for installation)
-Full exhaust: Now we're talking either Magnaflow full, Eisenmann full, Rouge ikon, all of those cost between $600-$1000 (Plus installation is another $300-$400)
-CAI: Now I'm talking an ACTUAL cold air intake, not an intake box. A TRUE cold air intake would be one such as the dinan long tube that goes down into your break duct so that you pull up cold air constantly while driving. If you want actual power, read up on velocity stacks. The more air velocity the CAI is getting, the more of a performance gain your car will gain. (Now if you get a dinan long tube, it's gonna run retail about $450-$550 shipped, install if free haha)
-Cams: If you want a better compression, Schrick cams would obviously be the way to go, BUT this is very costly. Cams + install would run about 2000 but you'd get some good gains.

Give or take, you're already around $2000-2500 bucks with just bolt ons/installs alone. (Just an estimate for all you who want to try and flame me) Realistically, from ALL of those mods, you're going to BARELY get to 200whp. (You might get there if you take out the spare tire, rear seats, get lighter front seats, battery, anything that will add additional weight) If you're saying you want POWER, and you own a 400+whp rx7 that you enjoy, the super charger is the way to go man. You'll be getting 310bhp for a 323i, which is around 240-260whp...thats what you're aiming for initially and for the cost that you're putting into all those bolt on mods, you might as well just save all your money, get the supercharger, and mod from there while you have a great base of approx 250whp. From there you can get more power from dropping weight, intake, exhaust, headers etc...Trust me bro it's the way to go if you want power, otherwise you're just wasting your money on a 2.3l engine man.

$0.02

~Steve

Last edited by ICONIKE46; 03-18-2011 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:11 PM   #30
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If I wanted strictly power I would just stick with my Mazda as a street car. All I want is more power than I have now, that's it. I said in the original post that I don't even expect 200 rwhp.

Ebay headers: $100 shipped, but they sent 325 headers, so I'll need to buy $90 in mandrel bends, chop the headers off after the collector, and fab a new section to mate to the exhaust. Free to me, but too much time without a DD.

CAI: $250 from K&N, brand new. I don't want my intake to dip into the brake duct, I drive this car in all weather and through big puddles sometimes.

Full Exhaust: $675 in just mufflers, I'm guessing another $2-300 for the bends, straight pipes, flanges, and material to fabricate the hangers. A full 304 stainless exhaust with 2 magnaflow polished stainless mufflers and a stromung rear muffler is not cheap.

All fab work and install by me.

FYI, Turner Motorsport was saying much larger HP numbers than that. I need to call them back to get some clarification.

Seth

Quote:
Originally Posted by ICONIKE46 View Post
Ok inb4stav,

If you're looking for POWER, I'm sorry to sound like the others that will tell you, but get a supercharger man.

To the OP/anyone who would like to read lol. Don't immediately say, "oh he's class of 2010 he knows nothing blah blah like kids say every year" I do my research before posting.

-Let's think about it, you bought ebay headers: $150-200 (Unless you're installing yourself, that's another $300 for installation)
-Full exhaust: Now we're talking either Magnaflow full, Eisenmann full, Rouge ikon, all of those cost between $600-$1000 (Plus installation is another $300-$400)
-CAI: Now I'm talking an ACTUAL cold air intake, not an intake box. A TRUE cold air intake would be one such as the dinan long tube that goes down into your break duct so that you pull up cold air constantly while driving. If you want actual power, read up on velocity stacks. The more air velocity the CAI is getting, the more of a performance gain your car will gain. (Now if you get a dinan long tube, it's gonna run retail about $450-$550 shipped, install if free haha)
-Cams: If you want a better compression, Schrick cams would obviously be the way to go, BUT this is very costly. Cams + install would run about 2000 but you'd get some good gains.

Give or take, you're already around $2000-2500 bucks with just bolt ons/installs alone. (Just an estimate for all you who want to try and flame me) Realistically, from ALL of those mods, you're going to BARELY get to 200whp. (You might get there if you take out the spare tire, rear seats, get lighter front seats, battery, anything that will add additional weight) If you're saying you want POWER, and you own a 400+whp rx7 that you enjoy, the super charger is the way to go man. You'll be getting 310bhp for a 323i, which is around 240-260whp...thats what you're aiming for initially and for the cost that you're putting into all those bolt on mods, you might as well just save all your money, get the supercharger, and mod from there while you have a great base of approx 250whp. From there you can get more power from dropping weight, intake, exhaust, headers etc...Trust me bro it's the way to go if you want power, otherwise you're just wasting your money on a 2.3l engine man.

$0.02

~Steve
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:56 PM   #31
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What drugs are you guys on?

$150 Headers + $50 for heat wrap
$175 B30 Intake manifold + $60 for the adapter
$180 Long tube intake
$300 Shark injector
$500-$600 for a full exhaust

I don't know why you're buying multiple mufflers, or what type of exhaust you're making but mufflers shouldn't cost $600

Last edited by Iceman00; 03-18-2011 at 02:57 PM.
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Old 03-19-2011, 10:53 AM   #32
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Stromung Rear Muffler: <a href="http://store.vacmotorsports.com/stromung---performance-rear-section-exhaust-e46-323i--328i-p2554.aspx"><b>$468.95 at VAC Motorsports</b></a>

Magnaflow 14378: <a href="http://www.jegs.com/i/Magnaflow/642/14378/10002/-1?parentProductId=751040"><b>$130.99 at Jegs</b></a>

Magnaflow 14316: <a href="http://www.jegs.com/i/Magnaflow/642/14316/10002/-1?parentProductId=751040"><b>$98.99 at Jegs</b></a>

That costs $698.93. I want 3 mufflers because I do a lot of freeway driving in it. A 9 hour trip with a droning exhaust is no fun! Keep in mind that these mufflers are unbaffled...

If I go with unpolished underbody mufflers, which is probably a good idea, then they cost:

Magnaflow 11216: <a href="http://www.jegs.com/i/Magnaflow/642/11216/10002/-1?parentProductId=751042"><b>$74.99 at Jegs</b></a>

Magnaflow 11378: <a href="http://www.jegs.com/i/Magnaflow/642/11378/10002/-1?parentProductId=751042"><b>$97.99 at Jegs</b></a>

That's still $641.93. Don't forget I have lots of 304 mandrel bends to buy, and a collector to make.

Last edited by shm21284; 03-19-2011 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:15 AM   #33
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Stromung Rear Muffler: <a href="http://store.vacmotorsports.com/stromung---performance-rear-section-exhaust-e46-323i--328i-p2554.aspx"><b>$468.95 at VAC Motorsports</b></a>

Magnaflow 14378: <a href="http://www.jegs.com/i/Magnaflow/642/14378/10002/-1?parentProductId=751040"><b>$130.99 at Jegs</b></a>

Magnaflow 14316: <a href="http://www.jegs.com/i/Magnaflow/642/14316/10002/-1?parentProductId=751040"><b>$98.99 at Jegs</b></a>

That costs $698.93. I want 3 mufflers because I do a lot of freeway driving in it. A 9 hour trip with a droning exhaust is no fun! Keep in mind that these mufflers are unbaffled...

If I go with unpolished underbody mufflers, which is probably a good idea, then they cost:

Magnaflow 11216: <a href="http://www.jegs.com/i/Magnaflow/642/11216/10002/-1?parentProductId=751042"><b>$74.99 at Jegs</b></a>

Magnaflow 11378: <a href="http://www.jegs.com/i/Magnaflow/642/11378/10002/-1?parentProductId=751042"><b>$97.99 at Jegs</b></a>

That's still $641.93. Don't forget I have lots of 304 mandrel bends to buy, and a collector to make.
You're doing it wrong. Buy a high quality muffler and perhaps, even a resonator, but you don't need 3 mufflers. I suggest looking around at a few setups people have, and asking them how they sound, and that will give you a better idea in the route to go, instead of throwing money around.
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:55 AM   #34
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You're doing it wrong. Buy a high quality muffler and perhaps, even a resonator, but you don't need 3 mufflers. I suggest looking around at a few setups people have, and asking them how they sound, and that will give you a better idea in the route to go, instead of throwing money around.
Thanks, Iceman, but I'll build it the way I want. I am not new to fabricating exhausts.

I got a chance to modify the headers that I have. As I said earlier, I got the wrong headers from the seller on Ebay (325/330 headers instead of 323/328 headers). 3 problems with them: they were offset to the drivers side about 2 inches, the flanges were clocked wrong, and the o2 sensors didn't fit. The first 2 problems aren't really that big a deal with the exhaust I'm about to build, but the o2 sensors were.

So, I cut the headers at the expansion just after the collector. I'll have to weld in new o2 bungs (the other ones left on the header don't work either - last time i buy chinese junk...) and I'll have to weld in flanges. I'm thinking v-bands, if there's enough radial spacing.

Since I currently don't have access to a band saw or chop saw, I just pulled out this old trick: put a hose clamp on the pipe and trace around - makes a nice clean line for a straight cut.





Both headers cut:



What annoyed me with these is the spacing from the expanded part of the pipe to the normal 2" diameter wasn't the same, so they don't look uniform. Owell.

They actually look kind of nice in the engine bay! But, they don't give you a ton of room, I hope the engine doesn't rock that much under hard acceleration.



And to reiterate how crappy the stock manifolds are:







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Old 03-19-2011, 11:58 AM   #35
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One thing I should note. When I had the car on the lift to measure the stock exhaust and take some pictures, I noticed the middle muffler is a bit odd. It has an inlet and outlet at the bottom of the muffler, so if you get an aftermarket one that has in/out in the middle, the muffler will sit a little lower. There's not really any room to move the muffler up because the pipes can't move up. So, that may eliminate a 3rd muffler, but I'm not looking forward to that.
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Old 03-19-2011, 12:09 PM   #36
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Thanks, Iceman, but I'll build it the way I want. I am not new to fabricating exhausts.
Perhaps not, but what you are doing is counter productive to what you are trying to gain. You're going to be adding unnecessary weight, and probably a bit of restriction as well. Where is your Y pipe going to be? Where are you going to place it?

And if you can fabricate, the first thing I would do is weld in a GOOD set of collectors on those headers. I KNOW there are a few people on this forum (myself included) who would be willing to buy a set.
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Old 03-19-2011, 03:11 PM   #37
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Perhaps not, but what you are doing is counter productive to what you are trying to gain. You're going to be adding unnecessary weight, and probably a bit of restriction as well. Where is your Y pipe going to be? Where are you going to place it?

And if you can fabricate, the first thing I would do is weld in a GOOD set of collectors on those headers. I KNOW there are a few people on this forum (myself included) who would be willing to buy a set.
At that point why don't I just fabricate the whole header? I am thinking about that, because at this point, the car is going to be down for a while anyway. The whole idea of buying the ebay headers was: they were cheap, and they were supposed to bolt on. Well, that second part was a sham.

Here's an s2000 exhaust I built for a T3 racecar:



















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Old 03-19-2011, 03:14 PM   #38
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Messaging you now.
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Old 03-19-2011, 03:18 PM   #39
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Save yourself some time, and just do a complete single with a good "Y" pipe, a center muffler, and a vibrant or the like rear muffler.
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:39 PM   #40
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Update: just bought a pile of bends and an engine flange. In the interest of cost, I purchased a 304 stainless 3-1 formed collector for the 2 primary sections from www.coneengineering.com, and will make my own 304 stainless 2-1 merge collector for the remaining section. Again, in the interest of cost, the bends are 304 stainless schedule 10 butt weld 90 degree sections (cheaper than purchasing mandrel bent 180s from www.woolfaircraft.com), but they appear to be of high quality construction, and they will be easy to weld. Unfortunately, I couldn't find an M52 engine exhaust flange in 304, so I settled for cold rolled mild steel. I'll probably just paint it, and the heat shields integrated into the gaskets will cover these flanges up.







I also did some work on estimating the primary length of the headers. I found a nifty little program that uses acoustic science to do this, when supplied with:

1) volumetric efficiency
2) RPM where peak horsepower occurs
3) Bore
4) Stroke
5) Connecting rod length
6) Number of cylinders
7) Compression ratio
8) Number of intake and exhaust valves per cylinder
9) Intake and exhaust valve diameter
10) Intake and exhaust valve stem diameter
11) Valve lift on both intake and exhaust
12) Duration on both intake and exhaust
13) Degreed centerline
14) Lobe center angle
15) Exhaust port centerline length (used for length tuning of primary tubes)

All this information is available on the internet except for volumetric efficiency, which I got from my dyno chart. Basically, I entered the rest of the engine data and adjusted volumetric efficiency until its horsepower estimator was in line with my actual peak horsepower. This seems to work fine for other people.

Now that I have the correct primary length and secondary collector length (I'm making a 6-2-1 header system), I can start fabbing the header. Looks like I'm going to be collecting much earlier than I originally thought, so I'll be running single pipe mufflers for the entire system (hooray for simplicity and cost!). Additionally, because the middle muffler has an entry and exit at the bottom of the muffler, I'll probably leave out that muffler for the time being. If it's too noisy, I have a the tools to make my own custom muffler and a source for perforated stainless tubing. Here's a picture of the middle muffler, so you guys know what I'm talking about:



When I searched for aftermarket mufflers, the inlet and exit occur in the center (vertically) of the muffler, and this would add approx 0.75-1.25" of height to the bottom of the muffler, thus making the muffler 0.75-1.25" closer to the ground. There doesn't seem to be any room to move the pipes up to alleviate this problem. Thus, eliminate it (for the time being, as noise permits).

The headers will most likely look like a pile of snakes and be a pain to remove and install. But, with an equal length system, and most importantly, a system that scavenges (which NONE of the ones for M52tuB25s look like they do), there will be a pay off. Note that proper scavenging (for the most part) requires equal length primaries.
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