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Old 09-07-2011, 04:23 PM   #41
NIVO
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added my tires, wheels and tint along with head unit.
Not sure if LSD is next or not.
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WARNING: This modification is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm due to the extreme G forces once turbo kicks in. ~ Nivo
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Last edited by NIVO; 09-07-2011 at 04:25 PM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:16 AM   #42
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Got the unichip in.







Features

  • Fits piggy-back style to existing electronic fuel injection systems & puts engine control back into the hands of the tuner .Renders an otherwise untuneable Engine Management System , tuneable to the extent of what Standalone systems provide & even beyond that.
  • No opening of ECU’s or burning of chips.
  • Supports just about every modern crank style . Updateable firmware means that as new crank styles are released by manufacturers the Unichip is easily upgraded to stay in touch with technology
  • The Unichip has 5 map sets available . Every chip can therefore be tuned with up to 5 completely different maps . For example : Map1 can be used for regular fuel ; Map 2 for a 50/50 mix of Gasoline & an Alternative Fuel ; Map3 for 100% Alternative Fuel etc.
  • Switching between maps is accomplished in 3 different ways : easiest & simplest way is via a 5-way switch (available from Unichip) which can be installed inside the car . Then there’s a Bluetooth switch (available from Unichip) which communicates with most modern cellphones . Our most popular map switching method is via our Flux Power display .
  • Manipulate 5(Unichip Q+) 0-5volt inputs.
  • Drive extra fuel injectors
  • Drive water injection
  • Drive water/methanol injection
  • Activate water mist spray for intercoolers
  • Manipulate intake manifold flaps
  • Manipulate variable cam-timing
  • Manipulate timing advance & retard (this is what the other guys wish they could do). Retard timing in one map , flick a switch & the next map speeds it up.REAL-TIME TUNING MEANS A TUNER CAN MAKE CHANGES TO TIMING & FUELING SETTINGS WHILE RUNNING A CAR ON A DYNO & OBSERVE THE RESULTS!!!
  • Manipulate air-to-fuel ratio mixtures . Whether you’re manipulating a 0-5Volt input from a MAP sensor or a frequency from a MAF , the Unichip does it all.
  • Manipulate oxygen sensor voltages . Want to clamp that 0-5Volt signal ? No problem.
  • Manipulate drive-by-wire throttles. Add-on “throttle-boosters” now available to speed up those lethargic throttles!
  • Drive extra solenoids (for gas or liquid introduction)
  • Activate radiator fan
  • Control Nitrous injection
  • Control turbo boost
  • Control a shift light (or a pilot light which lets you know that your alternative fuel is now powering the engine).
  • Install & manipulate launch control
  • Datalogging feature
  • Fit Flux Power Display easily when installing a Unichip hardwire style to a car’s ECU or to a car’s ECU via one of our blanklooms or via a Unichip Plug ‘n Play kit .
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WARNING: This modification is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm due to the extreme G forces once turbo kicks in. ~ Nivo
The rest of my signature is reserved for pointless modification bits like: Halos | window Tint | carbon fiber roundels | short shifter

Last edited by NIVO; 10-11-2011 at 09:25 AM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 09:40 AM   #43
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I so want to check this car out...Im local too. Let me see this thing
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:07 PM   #44
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ahh.... ebay parts and piggyback.. it will be great news for some people at least I suppose..
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:54 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NIVO View Post
Got the unichip in.







Features

  • Fits piggy-back style to existing electronic fuel injection systems & puts engine control back into the hands of the tuner .Renders an otherwise untuneable Engine Management System , tuneable to the extent of what Standalone systems provide & even beyond that.
  • No opening of ECU’s or burning of chips.
  • Supports just about every modern crank style . Updateable firmware means that as new crank styles are released by manufacturers the Unichip is easily upgraded to stay in touch with technology
  • The Unichip has 5 map sets available . Every chip can therefore be tuned with up to 5 completely different maps . For example : Map1 can be used for regular fuel ; Map 2 for a 50/50 mix of Gasoline & an Alternative Fuel ; Map3 for 100% Alternative Fuel etc.
  • Switching between maps is accomplished in 3 different ways : easiest & simplest way is via a 5-way switch (available from Unichip) which can be installed inside the car . Then there’s a Bluetooth switch (available from Unichip) which communicates with most modern cellphones . Our most popular map switching method is via our Flux Power display .
  • Manipulate 5(Unichip Q+) 0-5volt inputs.
  • Drive extra fuel injectors
  • Drive water injection
  • Drive water/methanol injection
  • Activate water mist spray for intercoolers
  • Manipulate intake manifold flaps
  • Manipulate variable cam-timing
  • Manipulate timing advance & retard (this is what the other guys wish they could do). Retard timing in one map , flick a switch & the next map speeds it up.REAL-TIME TUNING MEANS A TUNER CAN MAKE CHANGES TO TIMING & FUELING SETTINGS WHILE RUNNING A CAR ON A DYNO & OBSERVE THE RESULTS!!!
  • Manipulate air-to-fuel ratio mixtures . Whether you’re manipulating a 0-5Volt input from a MAP sensor or a frequency from a MAF , the Unichip does it all.
  • Manipulate oxygen sensor voltages . Want to clamp that 0-5Volt signal ? No problem.
  • Manipulate drive-by-wire throttles. Add-on “throttle-boosters” now available to speed up those lethargic throttles!
  • Drive extra solenoids (for gas or liquid introduction)
  • Activate radiator fan
  • Control Nitrous injection
  • Control turbo boost
  • Control a shift light (or a pilot light which lets you know that your alternative fuel is now powering the engine).
  • Install & manipulate launch control
  • Datalogging feature
  • Fit Flux Power Display easily when installing a Unichip hardwire style to a car’s ECU or to a car’s ECU via one of our blanklooms or via a Unichip Plug ‘n Play kit .
Very interesting product choice. I actually spoke with Tony about the product and what it offers. I'm very interested to know the out come on how well you are able to control the motor with this product. Keep us posted with the progress once you start the install. ie. time take for install, ease of tuning x size injectors, timing control, idle control, fueling, maf/map, O2 sensors, etc...
Thanks
Rito
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:01 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zcchen View Post
ahh.... ebay parts and piggyback.. it will be great news for some people at least I suppose..
I have the wastegate which I might use on another project or just keep it for this one(that's from ebay and have used them with success), the intercooler piping is from ebay too and so is the manifold which is a copy of the turbonetics, treadstone. I never had an issue with some ebay parts. If you had done it before and chosen correctly you would be in my shoes too. Over the years I have modified many many cars at the shop and at my house. I know what ebay parts work and what parts are junk.

In the end all will be written about. I am kind of doing a service to the community being a guinea pig as others before me have been, Gurov, Jimmy, Ritos, 95blkmax, bluejeansonfire <---- those guys and some others have broken the ground on M54 modifying...

I have seen your posts inquiring about parts and info for your own build of your 325... and also seen your questions on how superchargers work, I know how they work and have installed many centrifugal and twin screw roots blowers on cars from 350Z's to mustangs to vipers. So before coming on and bringing on the sarcasm....

you don't need to get name brand parts for them to work, unless you are about bragging to buddies about brand X.

So if you have some better ideas and suggestions about my build then post them here. if you are doing all your turbocharging yourself at home with your own welder, tools and random parts to make your own car turbo then I would love to see your build thread too as we can feed the community and each other.

I am sure when I build my own motor at home I will post some pics of the progress and I am sure I will also be asking the pioneers of M54 engine tear down like PEI330CI some questions... it's all about helping each other and not knocking each other down.
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WARNING: This modification is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm due to the extreme G forces once turbo kicks in. ~ Nivo
The rest of my signature is reserved for pointless modification bits like: Halos | window Tint | carbon fiber roundels | short shifter
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:16 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ritos530i View Post
Very interesting product choice. I actually spoke with Tony about the product and what it offers. I'm very interested to know the out come on how well you are able to control the motor with this product. Keep us posted with the progress once you start the install. ie. time take for install, ease of tuning x size injectors, timing control, idle control, fueling, maf/map, O2 sensors, etc...
Thanks
Rito
Yeah man, I have followed your threads also when I was learning more of the M54.

All that I will be posting as this is all experimental with this car, being that we have emissions testing here in Mass by the OBD port I am limited to what can be done short of breaking down the DME code, write code then flash new code to the DME with the new parameters which will take time to do as it took NickG and reason why he does what he does and no one else.

with the Unichip there are many ways to arrive at point B, looking at it it is a very strong piggyback computer and one of the few that are completely sealed from weather and dirt. It is also nice to know that with the new BMW harness it can be plug and play and no hacking of the factory wires is needed.

Currently another person is already beyond what I have done and he has installed the unichip on his BMW. Installed the manifold etc..

I am not done finalizing things, just yesterday I asked Eddy about his wastegate placement because of one of the guys following my site went to install his wastegate tube from the manifold and he said there was no room, I knew Eddy had his on the back and confirmed it with him. Us DIY guys have to feed of each other

I guess also to use the standard method of tuning with a piggyback you can have a tuner flash you with an injector rescale for larger injectors etc etc...
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WARNING: This modification is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm due to the extreme G forces once turbo kicks in. ~ Nivo
The rest of my signature is reserved for pointless modification bits like: Halos | window Tint | carbon fiber roundels | short shifter
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:13 AM   #48
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One of these 3 doesn't belong in the e46fanatics FI section... lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NIVO View Post
So before coming on and bringing on the sarcasm....

you don't need to get name brand parts for them to work, unless you are about bragging to buddies about brand X.

it's all about helping each other and not knocking each other down.
Best of luck with the project!!!!
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:37 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NIVO View Post
Yeah man, I have followed your threads also when I was learning more of the M54.

All that I will be posting as this is all experimental with this car, being that we have emissions testing here in Mass by the OBD port I am limited to what can be done short of breaking down the DME code, write code then flash new code to the DME with the new parameters which will take time to do as it took NickG and reason why he does what he does and no one else.

with the Unichip there are many ways to arrive at point B, looking at it it is a very strong piggyback computer and one of the few that are completely sealed from weather and dirt. It is also nice to know that with the new BMW harness it can be plug and play and no hacking of the factory wires is needed.

Currently another person is already beyond what I have done and he has installed the unichip on his BMW. Installed the manifold etc..

I am not done finalizing things, just yesterday I asked Eddy about his wastegate placement because of one of the guys following my site went to install his wastegate tube from the manifold and he said there was no room, I knew Eddy had his on the back and confirmed it with him. Us DIY guys have to feed of each other

I guess also to use the standard method of tuning with a piggyback you can have a tuner flash you with an injector rescale for larger injectors etc etc...
Thanks for following my threads and I know all too well what's involved in a build like this. I do wish you well and I know you will learn a lot more about your car over the duration of the project. I'll be following your build as well.
BTW, the UNichip seems to be a powerful device which having the PnP makes ease of install as well the fact that it can control timing either retard or advance. Tony mention up to +/-22% or +/-22 degrees which I can't remember specifically anymore. Just take your time with everyone and things should turn out well.
Best of luck
Rito
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:45 AM   #50
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:00 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NIVO View Post
I have the wastegate which I might use on another project or just keep it for this one(that's from ebay and have used them with success), the intercooler piping is from ebay too and so is the manifold which is a copy of the turbonetics, treadstone. I never had an issue with some ebay parts. If you had done it before and chosen correctly you would be in my shoes too. Over the years I have modified many many cars at the shop and at my house. I know what ebay parts work and what parts are junk.

In the end all will be written about. I am kind of doing a service to the community being a guinea pig as others before me have been, Gurov, Jimmy, Ritos, 95blkmax, bluejeansonfire <---- those guys and some others have broken the ground on M54 modifying...

I have seen your posts inquiring about parts and info for your own build of your 325... and also seen your questions on how superchargers work, I know how they work and have installed many centrifugal and twin screw roots blowers on cars from 350Z's to mustangs to vipers. So before coming on and bringing on the sarcasm....

you don't need to get name brand parts for them to work, unless you are about bragging to buddies about brand X.

So if you have some better ideas and suggestions about my build then post them here. if you are doing all your turbocharging yourself at home with your own welder, tools and random parts to make your own car turbo then I would love to see your build thread too as we can feed the community and each other.

I am sure when I build my own motor at home I will post some pics of the progress and I am sure I will also be asking the pioneers of M54 engine tear down like PEI330CI some questions... it's all about helping each other and not knocking each other down.
Yea.. was being half sarcastic.. Just because there are so many things out there on Ebay, so I guess you really have to know what you are doing when it comes to buying from Ebay.. But the other half, I really meant it will be great for us if ppl like you in the comm. finds out what works and what not for us.. I don't dig name brands, just that I have seen so many cars in the shop that do not function well since all their"ebay parts" are falling apart.. I have seen blown intercooler, blown radiator, let alone leaking WG and BOV.. guess that is why higher grade materials are needed when you are making 30 pounds of boost.. And I believe every product can be made to work, just some are more efficient than others.. The thing I hate the most is that soon as the build starts, you are pulled back because some parts do not do their jobs that you intended them to do.. it is one thing if I did not order the right part, like a wrong WG diameter or wrong BOV spring that causes problem; but it is another if some problems arise from bad part.. I will go for anything that is proven to be working right no matter who sells them.. When I start building, I guess I will have to fabricate a lot of things, and I don't think my skill can make anything very good, but at least I will try.. I am really looking forward to start my build, and I will sure document it.. but I gotta be back to my car to start.. lol.. focusing on the EVO for now.. no hating here, and hopefully it is all good.. Best wished to your project! I will follow your thread and comment no more.. thank you
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:25 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zcchen View Post
Yea.. was being half sarcastic.. Just because there are so many things out there on Ebay, so I guess you really have to know what you are doing when it comes to buying from Ebay.. But the other half, I really meant it will be great for us if ppl like you in the comm. finds out what works and what not for us.. I don't dig name brands, just that I have seen so many cars in the shop that do not function well since all their"ebay parts" are falling apart.. I have seen blown intercooler, blown radiator, let alone leaking WG and BOV.. guess that is why higher grade materials are needed when you are making 30 pounds of boost.. And I believe every product can be made to work, just some are more efficient than others.. The thing I hate the most is that soon as the build starts, you are pulled back because some parts do not do their jobs that you intended them to do.. it is one thing if I did not order the right part, like a wrong WG diameter or wrong BOV spring that causes problem; but it is another if some problems arise from bad part.. I will go for anything that is proven to be working right no matter who sells them.. When I start building, I guess I will have to fabricate a lot of things, and I don't think my skill can make anything very good, but at least I will try.. I am really looking forward to start my build, and I will sure document it.. but I gotta be back to my car to start.. lol.. focusing on the EVO for now.. no hating here, and hopefully it is all good.. Best wished to your project! I will follow your thread and comment no more.. thank you
Thanks, you can make tons on the EVO faster why the E46? /end thread.
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WARNING: This modification is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm due to the extreme G forces once turbo kicks in. ~ Nivo
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Old 10-14-2011, 12:51 PM   #53
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NIVO! Keep us updated! Coming along great so far. But we gotta see some pics
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Old 11-10-2011, 04:45 PM   #54
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RoadRally.net motor mount to fit the Manifold and the Non M E46 should be here any day now. Could it be? no more modifying the E36 TRM motor mount to fit the E46 non m?

Also, let me stress this, If you live in a snowy salty climate region please make your wastegate relocation pipe out of 304 or 321 stainless steel.
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WARNING: This modification is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm due to the extreme G forces once turbo kicks in. ~ Nivo
The rest of my signature is reserved for pointless modification bits like: Halos | window Tint | carbon fiber roundels | short shifter

Last edited by NIVO; 11-10-2011 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 11-10-2011, 05:03 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by NIVO View Post
RoadRally.net motor mount to fit the Manifold and the Non M E46 should be here any day now. Could it be? no more modifying the E36 TRM motor mount to fit the E46 non m?

Also, let me stress this, If you live in a snowy salty climate region please make your wastegate relocation pipe out of 304 or 321 stainless steel.
Doesnt matter what you make it out of as when you weld you damage the protection and it needs a new protection

Is the mount similiar to the one im running ?


Then ,no it still needs some modefying (engine will point slightly towards the driver otherwise)

Loking forward to some updates
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Old 11-10-2011, 05:49 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pir4t View Post
Doesnt matter what you make it out of as when you weld you damage the protection and it needs a new protection

Is the mount similiar to the one im running ?


Then ,no it still needs some modefying (engine will point slightly towards the driver otherwise)

Loking forward to some updates
That is an E36 engine mount in your image you posted.

this is the differences compared to the OEM in Yellow:

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WARNING: This modification is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm due to the extreme G forces once turbo kicks in. ~ Nivo
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Old 11-10-2011, 06:00 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by NIVO View Post
That is an E36 engine mount in your image you posted.

this is the differences compared to the OEM in Yellow:

Yeah pic is of e36, couldnt find a pic of the e46 one(looks basicly thesame , just a tad bit bent from factory)

What dampers are you planning to use with that mount ? And are you sure it will clear the turbo inlet ? Mine is supertight(1.5mm clearance between damper and inlet)
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Old 11-20-2011, 11:22 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pir4t View Post
Yeah pic is of e36, couldnt find a pic of the e46 one(looks basicly thesame , just a tad bit bent from factory)

What dampers are you planning to use with that mount ? And are you sure it will clear the turbo inlet ? Mine is supertight(1.5mm clearance between damper and inlet)
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:31 PM   #59
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I love it!!!! Much better than the rig I had to make LOL
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:37 AM   #60
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I have forgotten to update this thread!

Unichip screen shots









---------------------------
Decided it was nice enough and had time enough to fit this monster intercooler out front of the OEM ZHP bumper cover. And the new sibling.

Inter cooler has 3" in/out, core is 22" w x 12" high x 3.5" deep. Total width is 30"
I had to modify the 5mph aluminum bumper, Some cutting and grinding so I can sit it about 2" higher and 1.5" further back up top.

Teaser..


-----------------------------
Finally motivated and enough time to start working on the hardware stuff....

I ported the turbo flange to gasket match it, T3 flange.


I also enlarged the wastegate port for a true 38mm and not 35mm as it was:


------------------------------
intercooler shot with cover on before paint.


------------------------------


Dastek has a schematic that it states it is for MS45 car (330Ci, 3.0L) but it is just based on MS43 wiring. I went out and got some info from Tony W. and got all the info needed to make a final schematic for basic engine controls like fuel and timing.

MS45 cars from 3/2003 http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E46_PA6000P.htm

MS45 cars from 9/2002 to 3/2003 http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/en/zinfo/E46_PA6000P.htm

Image Updated on 8/4/2012


---------------------------

Here is my new center console, ZHP shift knob, Eurobin and boots/cover. Also my new side turn signals OEM clear.
Working out details on the new stronger half shafts/axle stubs.
Oh, don't mind the uncovered seats, lol


---------------------------

Been working on this for a long time adding to it and taking away. But this one is pretty close to almost what it should be for a non turbo to turbo M54B30 set up.

From my site:

I have been working on this for some time now looking over all aspects of how the components on the car works, looking at wiring schematics and component flow and so far this is what I have on Turbocharging the M54 successfully with little to no check engine lights and decent fuel trims. Also making sure some components are not pressurized under boost. In the Diagram we also changed/deleted the OEM CCV system to a more simplified DIY Air & Oil Separator using fast acting check valves.

The wires to the MAF will need to be extended.

The 2 Vacuum hoses that went to the "F" connector on the original OEM intake boot are now on the vacuum block. The hose to the fuel pressure regulator has an inline check valve so it does not see pressure and fuel pressure stays static.
The wastegate is ran off the vacuum block, do this if you have a low pressure wastegate spring under 9psi. This way you will not need to spend money on a boost controller.

The By-pass valve is also run off the vacuum block. DO NOT in any case vent the metered air into atmosphere, the car will bog, stall during shifts due to the rich condition when venting metered air out of the closed system. DO NOT use a Blow Off Valve.

On my diagram you see that I use a high flow catalytic converter, this is to keep things clean and keep the post cat Oxygen sensors happy and we comply with local / Federal laws. The cat is on 2 V-Bands so it is removable.

My wastegate is venting to atmosphere, back pressure is less and usually you get more efficiency this way out of the external gate. If you want it back into the exhaust, route it so the tube going back into the exhaust is at an angle and not "Teed" into it.
The fuel tank breather valve, also known as the purge valve needs a check valve so we don't send pressure to it. It needs to be under vacuum to pull fumes out of the tank not pressure.

This Diagram will change as I find more efficient ways to make things work. But this is the starting point of going turbo on a non turbo car.
The Air & Oil separator is a basic $30 ebay catch can which I will show you how to modify so it works correctly.



-----------------------------
This is the Ebay catch can, Air/Oil Separator set up I came up with to get rid of the OEM Crank Case Ventilation set up that fails.
I started out with a catch can from ebay. I chose a round unit anodized in black.

It had to have removable top and bottom so it can be modified.

I got mine from I'LoveILtacotaco ebay store.

It is $29.99 shipped and in black. They do have other color choices too.

The can itself is 3.125" in diameter x 5.750" tall. This is just the perfect size for what we are trying to accomplish here!
There are only (2) 3/8" NPT ports but I wanted to add another for a -10an to ½" NPT fitting.
To do so I needed a ¾" Drill bit which I had and a ½" NPT tap bit.
First I centered punched where I wanted the fitting
Next I used a small drill bit to start a pilot hole; afterwards I used a ¾" drill bit.

I still need to make the internal baffling and chamber separator, I will post that when I get to it.

On a Forced Induction car it is critical that we have vacuum in the crank case at all time and not pressurize it with boost. Engine will not survive long if you don't.

If you take a look at my diagram on the above post you will see that I am following it pretty much as I designed it.

This is what the set up looks like.






-----------------------------

You have seen it everywhere lately, show cars, performance cars, at the race tracks. Gearheads are using Vacuum manifold blocks and Push-to-connect fittings with Nylon tubing. Pretty much the Nylon will last forever, it takes well to heat and pressure.

It doesn't bubble/expand out like rubber and unlike your local auto parts store it can be had really cheap!

I searched a few places for my own lines for my project and found that http://www.automationdirect.com had really good prices on the Black Nylon lines.

On the site they have it for $17.00/100ft roll. That ends up being 17 cents; yes you read it right, 17 cents per foot! you will have enough to even make a Meth kit with it.

Automation Direct also has the Push-to-connect fittings in packs of 5 for cheap! The 5 pack costs $4.75 for smooth round 1/4" Male fittings. That comes out to be 95 cents each. Compare to other places selling at $3.49+ for each fitting.


1/4" O.D. Hose to 1/8" NPT Threads


1/4" Nylon Hose for use as Vacuum/Pressure lines

Here are a few Vacuum Manifolds you can get for under $25:

Northern Tool and Equipment



AeroDesigns JP - EBAY



Mettle Air - EBAY store


---------------------------------
Vanos rebuild was done
Here are a few pics when I rebuilt my Vanos. The rest of the pictures are in here

They should be in order from left to right.

these where in addition to the Beisan kit instructions.






OEM Spacer with 129k miles on it.




-------------------------
More new items arrived
Here are a few new items...






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Turbo coolant lines Diagram
Since the Comp Turbo I have has water lines only for cooling the center cartridge we need to tap into the cars cooling system or build its own cooling system. I chose to use the cars existing cooling system.

This is the Coolant Radiator Hose Adapter:



Here is a Diagram showing the routing for the coolant using the Block port on the passengers side, it uses a M14 x 1.5 fitting to -6 an:


Block Coolant Drain plug is found here:


Here is a Diagram showing the routing for the coolant using the Heater Core Line going to the Coolant Expansion Tank, Treadstone sells the fitting for this:


Here is the Heater Hose Tee fitting from Treadstone Performance:


----------------------------
Got word on my custom interior and the patterns are made for the E46 coupe. Right now they cut the leathers/alcantara and next is the stitching of all the pieces and let me tell you there is lots of them.

The car currently:
__________________

www.E46Turbo330Ci.com
WARNING: This modification is known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm due to the extreme G forces once turbo kicks in. ~ Nivo
The rest of my signature is reserved for pointless modification bits like: Halos | window Tint | carbon fiber roundels | short shifter

Last edited by NIVO; 08-04-2012 at 10:37 PM.
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