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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 05-23-2011, 03:29 PM   #21
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Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 05-24-2011, 09:47 AM   #22
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thats not a bad price for a bmw lol . threw which vender?
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:05 AM   #23
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im sure turner has em.. but id suggest grab a tune afterwards
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:17 AM   #24
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256 vs 248?

does this make much difference on the exhaust side?
which would be better?
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:31 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdmikey View Post
does this make much difference on the exhaust side?
which would be better?
I don't know that anybody can accurately answer that question, because very very few people have installed the 256 cam on a naturally aspirated engine.

I was advised to use upgraded valve springs for the 272/256 package. ($1700 BTW) By the time I had bought the double valve springs, lower steel retainers, upper titanium retainers, and locks, I had spent pretty much the same as the cams. This cam package is at a minimum $3k+ in parts to do the install. They you are looking at around $1k for a competent shop to do the swap...hopefully they have the cam spline transfer tool.

The joke is in my application, I'm using these cams on a turbo engine.
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:40 AM   #26
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so the 264/248 is the better bet for a DD, yes?
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:26 PM   #27
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Old 05-29-2011, 01:40 AM   #28
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just wondering but i thought i heard somewhere that pulleys with a lwf can mess some stuff up?? maybe it was just pulleys that underdrive the crank shaft + the lwf?
Only things I heard was M3 owners having their Crank dampers split in 2 due to using an VERY light flywheel. And I mean something like a 16lbs FW, some even as light as 10lbs.

Not so common on M54s. Was that what you meant?
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Old 05-29-2011, 02:14 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Blocked Out View Post
Only things I heard was M3 owners having their Crank dampers split in 2 due to using an VERY light flywheel. And I mean something like a 16lbs FW, some even as light as 10lbs.

Not so common on M54s. Was that what you meant?
yes i cant remember where i read that but it does shed some light.. if only cams werennt so labor costly id give them a shot soon
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:23 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blocked Out View Post
Only things I heard was M3 owners having their Crank dampers split in 2 due to using an VERY light flywheel. And I mean something like a 16lbs FW, some even as light as 10lbs.

Not so common on M54s. Was that what you meant?
I've never heard of S54 crank dampers splitting in 2.

I ran an 8lb FW on my M54.

The weight of a flywheel on it's own won't affect crankshaft harmonics under load.
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Old 05-29-2011, 08:14 PM   #31
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http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/show...=139479&page=2

Post #24

A good read here

http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=326722
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:09 PM   #32
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So I contacted my source, and I'm informed:

"As indicated by the fast failure of the second – it is more likely an indicator of another problem…"


He also said "It happens"....

Seems I've been living in a cave.
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Old 07-15-2011, 10:41 PM   #33
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Yes I understand this but why not go to a solid lifter? Seems like the solution. And run 272/256 cams



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob43 View Post
They're made to run in a higher RPM band, that your M54 motor was not designed to operate in. Also you'll loose some low end torque. That's why we
all run the Schrick 264 degree (10.5mm lift) intake and 248 degree (10mm lift) exhaust cams.


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Old 07-15-2011, 11:23 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob43 View Post
They're made to run in a higher RPM band, that your M54 motor was not designed to operate in. Also you'll loose some low end torque. That's why we
all run the Schrick 264 degree (10.5mm lift) intake and 248 degree (10mm lift) exhaust cams.
Quote:
Originally Posted by adame46man View Post
Yes I understand this but why not go to a solid lifter? Seems like the solution. And run 272/256 cams

If you have the time & money, running 272/256 in a 330Ci/i DD is very possible.

Here's the short list of things needed.

1) 272/256: $1200
2) Solid lifter conversion: $280
3) A custom tune to 7500-8000 RPM: $1000-$2000
4) High performance valve springs/titanium retainers, good to 9000 RPM:$500
5) TC Kline/vaio76109 Upgraded Oil Pump: $750
6) ATI Harmonic Damper: $800
7) Gaskets & fluids: $ 300
8) Labor / most forum members can't do this: $1000-$1500

About $6330-$7330 not cheap, but it can be done.
This doesn't include a ported & polished / port matched head.

I'm sure I missed something.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RacerX View Post
Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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Old 07-16-2011, 06:43 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob43 View Post
If you have the time & money, running 272/256 in a 330Ci/i DD is very possible.

Here's the short list of things needed.

1) 272/256: $1200
2) Solid lifter conversion: $280
3) A custom tune to 7500-8000 RPM: $1000-$2000
4) High performance valve springs/titanium retainers, good to 9000 RPM:$500
5) TC Kline/vaio76109 Upgraded Oil Pump: $750
6) ATI Harmonic Damper: $800
7) Gaskets & fluids: $ 300
8) Labor / most forum members can't do this: $1000-$1500

About $6330-$7330 not cheap, but it can be done.
This doesn't include a ported & polished / port matched head.

I'm sure I missed something.
Rob,

The 272/256 cam is a hydraulic profile, you can't use solid lifters with it. Also those cams cost about $1700 from all my sources.

If you were to convert to solid lifters, with a custom camshaft designed for solid lifters (Approximately $2k), the price of the solid lifter parts alone is about the same as the cams. Then you will have to pay someone to setup the valve lash, which on the M54 is a real pain requiring a trial and error process with shims. I contacted a well known shop to do the process for me, and they quoted $1500 in labor to install and properly clearance the solid lifters alone.

Valve springs and retainers will be about $1k, although the custom set I'm running from Schrick are much more than that.

If you want to run an engine to 7000 RPM, I suggest running ARP rod bolts. Above 7k RPM, I recommend changing to an aftermarket rod. Figure $1000 on the low end for Eagles, and $1800 on the high end for Arrows. If you want to run some major power and RPM, a custom set from Arrow will run about $3k before shipping and duty from the UK.


So my revised list would look like this:

1) 272/256: $1700
2) A custom tune to 7000 RPM: $2000
3) High performance valve springs/titanium retainers: $1000
4) ARP Rod bolts: $250
5) TC Kline/vaio76109 Upgraded Oil Pump: $750
6) ATI Harmonic Damper: $800
7) Gaskets & fluids: $ 300
8) Labor / most forum members can't do this: $1000-$1500

Total: About $8300

Just my thoughts....
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Old 07-16-2011, 09:44 AM   #36
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Ouch .... that's the kind of info I was looking for! Guess it doesn't make sense to do all that. Supercharger here I come

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Old 07-16-2011, 10:01 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
Rob,

The 272/256 cam is a hydraulic profile, you can't use solid lifters with it. Also those cams cost about $1700 from all my sources.

If you were to convert to solid lifters, with a custom camshaft designed for solid lifters (Approximately $2k), the price of the solid lifter parts alone is about the same as the cams. Then you will have to pay someone to setup the valve lash, which on the M54 is a real pain requiring a trial and error process with shims. I contacted a well known shop to do the process for me, and they quoted $1500 in labor to install and properly clearance the solid lifters alone.

Valve springs and retainers will be about $1k, although the custom set I'm running from Schrick are much more than that.

If you want to run an engine to 7000 RPM, I suggest running ARP rod bolts. Above 7k RPM, I recommend changing to an aftermarket rod. Figure $1000 on the low end for Eagles, and $1800 on the high end for Arrows. If you want to run some major power and RPM, a custom set from Arrow will run about $3k before shipping and duty from the UK.


So my revised list would look like this:

1) 272/256: $1700
2) A custom tune to 7000 RPM: $2000
3) High performance valve springs/titanium retainers: $1000
4) ARP Rod bolts: $250
5) TC Kline/vaio76109 Upgraded Oil Pump: $750
6) ATI Harmonic Damper: $800
7) Gaskets & fluids: $ 300
8) Labor / most forum members can't do this: $1000-$1500

Total: About $8300

Just my thoughts....
Lol makes FI look cheap!
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Old 07-16-2011, 11:16 AM   #38
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I know right! Maybe I should just buy a honda ... lol

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Old 07-16-2011, 11:49 AM   #39
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Technique Tuning Turbo kit is the hot ticket.
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Old 07-16-2011, 01:04 PM   #40
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Thanks Adam, totally forgot about the Rods, and or rod bolts above 7000 RPM.
The Schrick 272/256 are normally $1700, but VAC has them on sale right now for $1200. I figured the TURNER MOTORSPORT kit listed below was the kit to use for a solid lifter conversion, but missed on the "A CUSTOM CAMSHAFT IS REQUIRED". As to the valve springs with titanium retainers, yes the Schrick are very expensive; so that's why I bought the Supertech. The Supertech valve spring kit with titanium retainers for the M54 is $491 and is good to 9000 RPM, hopefully no money-shifts once installed.

The most certain conclusion is: IT WOULD BE A VERY EXPENSIVE PROJECT.

Part #SPR-H1000D/BM / RET-K20A2/T2 & SEAT-BM50 (x24)
http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/sup...-apps-BMW.html

"Schrick Solid Lifter Conversion Kit (convert hydraulic lifters to solid lifters)

One major hurdle for a track-only car is the limitation of the hydraulic valve lifters in the M50, S50-US, M52, S52-US, M52TU, and M54 engines. These effectively limit your revs to 7200-7300 RPM as the valves 'float' at higher revs, leading to piston-valve contact. By converting to a machined solid lifter, and upgrading other areas of the engine, you can configure the valve train to withstand high RPM running. Not only can you tune for more power, you can help prevent damage during a mild mechanical over-rev.

This kit includes the mechanical spacers to convert hydraulic lifter tappets to solid lifters (like that of the S54 engine). The lifter bucket remains in place with the Schrick solid tappet replacing the original. These work on all M50, M52, S50, S52 and M54 engines and were proven in normally aspirated as well as supercharged engines. A CUSTOM CAMSHAFT IS REQUIRED.

Professional installation and setup is mandatory as these require complete assembly of the head, checking valve lash, then dis-assembly and machining of the Schrick tappet to spec. This kit includes enough spacers for 24 valves. We also carry individual parts, if you are looking for single pieces. This price is for a full set of 24.
BMW Schrick Technical Specs Schrick Technical Information / Specs
Price: $279.84 (USD) Part #: 086311700"
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Quote:
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Nitrous is a little trickier than boost, but it's not the spray that kills motors, it's STUPIDITY!!
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