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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 05-25-2011, 08:07 AM   #21
miyata
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Fabulous job. I'm annoyed the squeaking from the steering, dealer told me a coupler replacement would help. I cannot believe you've completed it like a easy job. Can I follow it on a XI? XI has a much higher part price $170, comparing $40 on other models.
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Old 05-25-2011, 11:34 AM   #22
snowborder142190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miyata View Post
Fabulous job. I'm annoyed the squeaking from the steering, dealer told me a coupler replacement would help. I cannot believe you've completed it like a easy job. Can I follow it on a XI? XI has a much higher part price $170, comparing $40 on other models.
I am not quite sure if the xi are the same but I can check it out when we do your vanos seals


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Old 05-25-2011, 09:12 PM   #23
miyata
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Originally Posted by snowborder142190 View Post
I am not quite sure if the xi are the same but I can check it out when we do your vanos seals


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Thanks 1K times
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:03 PM   #24
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Put this DIY in my todo-list, thanks, OP! BTW, www.bmwmercedesparts.com sells part 32306752957 just for $35! And I'd get two new torx bolts as well (32306778609) - $0.47 ea
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Old 06-10-2011, 05:21 AM   #25
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Put this DIY in my todo-list, thanks, OP! BTW, www.bmwmercedesparts.com sells part 32306752957 just for $35! And I'd get two new torx bolts as well (32306778609) - $0.47 ea
Thanks for the link!!


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Old 06-13-2011, 01:27 PM   #26
Kubs
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My steering wheel "shakes" back and forth a little bit between 60-70MPH. I have replaced control arms, bushings, inner and outer tie rods, wheel bearings, and sway bar end links with no change. Would this coupler be my problem?
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Old 06-14-2011, 01:31 PM   #27
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My steering wheel "shakes" back and forth a little bit between 60-70MPH. I have replaced control arms, bushings, inner and outer tie rods, wheel bearings, and sway bar end links with no change. Would this coupler be my problem?
It could be the problem but Likely it is a bent or out of balance rim.


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Old 06-14-2011, 01:41 PM   #28
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hmmmm....wondering now if mines need to be replaced. So the symptoms of a bad coupler is car drifting to the left or right? anything else.

Great DIY!
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Old 06-14-2011, 05:52 PM   #29
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hmmmm....wondering now if mines need to be replaced. So the symptoms of a bad coupler is car drifting to the left or right? anything else.

Great DIY!
It just seems like you have a lot of play in your steering that is how I can best describe it. If it is the original and it has gone 80k miles it's a safe bet it needed to be replaced. Very easy diy and only costs 40 dollars.


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Old 06-15-2011, 10:25 AM   #30
Custom3
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thanks! I got 90k...will replace then


Quote:
Originally Posted by snowborder142190 View Post
It just seems like you have a lot of play in your steering that is how I can beat describe it. If it is the original and it has gone 80k miles it's a safe bet it needed to be replaced. Very easy diy and only costs 40 dollars.


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Old 10-14-2011, 06:54 PM   #31
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ahh! much better

I replaced the steering coupler 32306752957 on my 2000 328i at 134,000 miles, and I'm very happy with the improvement. I've had the car for about a year. I replaced the control arms, control arm bushings, and tie rod ends, but the steering still felt vague. With the new coupler in place it feels much better.

I compared the feel of the new and old couplers side by side. The old one was much easier to flex. The additional stiffness in the new coupler helps the steering feel.

The install was fairly easy. It helps if your car is cold. You have to work right next to the oil pan.
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:57 PM   #32
yetieater
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Just did this one over the weekend. The bolts were initially quite difficult to access - I removed the aggregate protector plate at the bottom of my car to give myself more working room. Used Loctite Threadlocker Blue when bolting everything back together. The car definitely feels more confident through curves, and there's less annoying feedback from the road. I'm looking forward to my next roadtrip!
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Old 07-03-2012, 07:58 AM   #33
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Hey guys, just thought I would add some information I just got. I went to the dealers for the part as described by the OP. If your car has the euro m-sport package your car will not have the guibo numbered 2 on the diagram installed on your vehicle. Instead you have the Universal Joint numbered 4 on the diagram. In fact the m-sport version is apparently less likely to fail. Although having changed mine I noticed a great improvement.

Also it seemed much easier to install than some of the problems other guys have been having
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:41 PM   #34
Brobby87
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I hope to do this DIY this weekend with a little help from this thread. Thanks in advance for the pictorial DIY. I couldn't find anything like this over at bimmerfest.com.
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Old 12-15-2012, 07:38 PM   #35
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Can this job be done using jack stands since I don't have any ramps?
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:44 PM   #37
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Totally, it is even better on jack stands: more space to work.
Thanks. I wasn't sure how the suspension hanging would affect the install.
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Old 12-21-2012, 10:05 PM   #38
2003silver330i
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Just did this DIY and I have to say it was one of the easiest things I have attempted on this car. Took longer to get the car up on jack stands and remove the covers underneath then it did to replace the coupler.
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:28 PM   #39
blitzyj
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first of all thanks for sharing this DIY! One question: Is it normal i could slide nr 1(coupled to the steering shaft) in the next picture out of the rubber?


This happened to me when i was pulling nr 1(next picture) towards the coupler.


I pushed it back inwards and heared a click, so i guess it's ok?

Last edited by blitzyj; 03-31-2013 at 01:30 PM.
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