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Old 06-18-2011, 06:17 PM   #21
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Ok so with the weather finally warming up, I've decided to mount my sub into the rear deck. I'm doing one 12" sub in the middle. Do you have any pictures of the box mounted from below or from above without the dampening? I still don't quite understand how you secured it in there
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Old 06-18-2011, 06:36 PM   #22
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Congratulations!!! very good job!!!
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Old 06-18-2011, 07:30 PM   #23
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Very clean setup!!
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:03 AM   #24
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ok so instead of making a new thread, i figured id put it in here because it is essentially the same.

Do you guys think it would be ok to cut away the center area on my parcel shelf to make room for a similar box but just with one 12 inch? Here is a picture of the layout:


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Old 06-19-2011, 11:52 AM   #25
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Do it Do it Do it! I cut my whole shelf out and put 4 8's last summer!!!! I kept the main structure around the outsides to keep a little bit of structure and integrity
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:06 PM   #26
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Do it Do it Do it! I cut my whole shelf out and put 4 8's last summer!!!! I kept the main structure around the outsides to keep a little bit of structure and integrity
hah ok. so it can be done. How did you go about cutting it and securing your box? any pics? Im trying to get as much info before i begin!
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:15 PM   #27
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We used a cut off wheel. We actually built it in two pieces. The top piece was all fiberglassed up (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=688039&page=9) we loaded it up on the rear shelf with the subs in. We then had a box that we fastened to it from the underside. Pretty much, its not gonna come out in one piece or salvageable. It's definitely doable though. I dunno if it's worth the pay off other than saying yeah check out what I have. I did it just because I wanted as much of my kicker gear exposed as I could. Wow factor, nothing else.
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:54 PM   #28
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We used a cut off wheel. We actually built it in two pieces. The top piece was all fiberglassed up (http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...=688039&page=9) we loaded it up on the rear shelf with the subs in. We then had a box that we fastened to it from the underside. Pretty much, its not gonna come out in one piece or salvageable. It's definitely doable though. I dunno if it's worth the pay off other than saying yeah check out what I have. I did it just because I wanted as much of my kicker gear exposed as I could. Wow factor, nothing else.
Wow factor indeed. I'm want to have my speaker face out as well... But I'm not sure how to go about doing it yet. I'm going to try and use the existing shelf because I still have the stock parcel shelf speakers in there.

You think that's doable?
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:29 AM   #29
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NICE WORK! Apline Question

I am running an Alpine head unit and just recieved my Imprint module and mic setup. Any tips towards tuning? Nice work on your trunk and deck lid setup. I want to box in my 2 Focal 6.5" that are in the rear deck, the midbass in my rear deck of my 05 ZHP Sedan is just not good. I modded the front doors for the Front Focal's and have them playing relatively flat down to 80hz which isnt bad for a 5.25 driver. The frustration I have is the rear HK 6" roll off just under 200hz, and I need more midbass down to 65hz to blend the sub into the sytem better. Sub is a properly aligned ported enclosure with an Alpine 12" DVC R Series driver. Box is tuned to 24.4hz and out of car testing in my home listening room shows playing flat all the way down to 24hz, its F3 is only 2db down at 21.5hz. Granted in the car it is much harder generate extreme low freq wavefronts due to cabin space etc. Thanks for any advice. Oh my amps are Alpine V series for mids and JLG1700 for Sub. Optima Yellow Top for power, with 4g for each amp and stock alternator.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:58 AM   #30
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So I am in the same boat, I want to rid my trunk of my single ported 12" box.

I want SQ & some nice kick but am a little bit more concerned about weight saving.
I would rather not cut into the parcel shelf.

Does it really limit the sound travel into the cabin that much?

I was considering 3 options:

1. BSW style setup, parcelshelf mounted sealed box holding 2 shallowmount 10"s downfiring

2. Parcel shelf small sealed box with 2 eights shooting through the holes already in the shelf

3. 2 8's or one 10" firing through a cut out where the ski pass should be...


Any ideas guys?
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:44 AM   #31
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Re

Here is what i learned by using my $2500.00 martin Logan Grotto 10" home sub as a testing base before installing my 12" ported Alpine. The wavefronts do not get the time/distance to fully develop before hitting the drivers listening location when the woofer is facing through the ski pass. Also faced it upwards simulating the rear deck location with all factory rear deck speakers removed same issue, semi decent response in the 50-80hz range but really absent at the lower end. I tried facing rearward toward the trunk and again same result, while much better than the other 2 options I was still battling standing waves and lack of low end development in the cabin. I then placed the driver in on the passenger side facing towards the battery aka 90 degrees (pointing tailight to tailight) this presented an enormous gain in low end response. I then built my sub tested it on the signal generator in the house tuned the enclosure to 24.5hz and @ 21.5hz its only -2db. Then installed in the car x over set on 80/24db oct. Tuning last night with the Imprint and microphone it read flat on the first try down to 23hz. Granted its all a trade off for trunk space. My final solution is going to be to rebuild the box for the same flared 4"x 18.24" port and 1.73/ft3 and keep it all on the left(driver) side of the car to regain some trunk space. Installed the Imprint PXA-h100 last night. Great preamp and tcorrection, not so impressed with the auto tuning. It did a decent job, however i was able to tune the system for a flatter response and better imaging stage on my own and it took far less time than the auto measuring.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:15 AM   #32
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Thank you! Yes shape of box does not matter, only the internal volume matters.
Not true...but not as critical for bass drivers, subs, as it is for midrange where shape can be critical varying with frequency. Try to stay with the Golden Ratio formula as much as practical. Here's a link to a great little GR calculator.
http://goldenratiocalculator.com/
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:29 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by super98lsc View Post
Here is what i learned by using my $2500.00 martin Logan Grotto 10" home sub as a testing base before installing my 12" ported Alpine. The wavefronts do not get the time/distance to fully develop before hitting the drivers listening location when the woofer is facing through the ski pass. Also faced it upwards simulating the rear deck location with all factory rear deck speakers removed same issue, semi decent response in the 50-80hz range but really absent at the lower end. I tried facing rearward toward the trunk and again same result, while much better than the other 2 options I was still battling standing waves and lack of low end development in the cabin. I then placed the driver in on the passenger side facing towards the battery aka 90 degrees (pointing tailight to tailight) this presented an enormous gain in low end response. I then built my sub tested it on the signal generator in the house tuned the enclosure to 24.5hz and @ 21.5hz its only -2db. Then installed in the car x over set on 80/24db oct. Tuning last night with the Imprint and microphone it read flat on the first try down to 23hz. Granted its all a trade off for trunk space. My final solution is going to be to rebuild the box for the same flared 4"x 18.24" port and 1.73/ft3 and keep it all on the left(driver) side of the car to regain some trunk space. Installed the Imprint PXA-h100 last night. Great preamp and tcorrection, not so impressed with the auto tuning. It did a decent job, however i was able to tune the system for a flatter response and better imaging stage on my own and it took far less time than the auto measuring.
Exactly where I built my fiberglass box, drivers side trunk facing battery. Awesome low end response through the "barriers" with a single 12" IDQ at ~.8 QTC, powered by about 400 watts. It'll make your throat jiggle! Lol.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:32 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by super98lsc View Post
Here is what i learned by using my $2500.00 martin Logan Grotto 10" home sub as a testing base before installing my 12" ported Alpine. The wavefronts do not get the time/distance to fully develop before hitting the drivers listening location when the woofer is facing through the ski pass. Also faced it upwards simulating the rear deck location with all factory rear deck speakers removed same issue, semi decent response in the 50-80hz range but really absent at the lower end. I tried facing rearward toward the trunk and again same result, while much better than the other 2 options I was still battling standing waves and lack of low end development in the cabin. I then placed the driver in on the passenger side facing towards the battery aka 90 degrees (pointing tailight to tailight) this presented an enormous gain in low end response. I then built my sub tested it on the signal generator in the house tuned the enclosure to 24.5hz and @ 21.5hz its only -2db. Then installed in the car x over set on 80/24db oct. Tuning last night with the Imprint and microphone it read flat on the first try down to 23hz. Granted its all a trade off for trunk space. My final solution is going to be to rebuild the box for the same flared 4"x 18.24" port and 1.73/ft3 and keep it all on the left(driver) side of the car to regain some trunk space. Installed the Imprint PXA-h100 last night. Great preamp and tcorrection, not so impressed with the auto tuning. It did a decent job, however i was able to tune the system for a flatter response and better imaging stage on my own and it took far less time than the auto measuring.

Much appreciated, so just to clarify, your current setup is a custom box above the battery tray? Any pics, I don't recall having seen a bax there thats ported.

And why are you looking to move it to the driver's side?
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:09 PM   #35
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Re

No its currently on the driver side and will remain there. the driver is facing the side of the trunk that has the battery on it, in other words firing from left to right vs. foward (towards seats) or backwards (towards trunk). I just found that the best low end response for the car was in this configuration. The worst of all was facing foward through the ski pass. I removed the ski pass and stitched in black headliner material there so the bass passes through from the trunk. My original goal was to build a box with the driver facing through the ski pass, but the low end response was so poor even with the driver sealed to the ski pass I ended up with what I have now. Since I have a Grand Cherokee SUV in addtion to 2 Corvettes I dont race this car and dont need the trunk to move stuff so wasnt a big deal to lose space vs having perfect sound. I am running Focal K2 Powers all the way around and removed the craptastic HK speakers. Honestly this HK system was the worse sounding factory stereo I have ever heard in any high end car. Amps are Apline V-Power and a G-1700 for the Sub, Apline SWR 1243D, which of all the 12" drivers i researched had the best parameters (Thiele Small) to achieve the lowest F3 (24.4hz) in the smallest box possible. The JL W3 and W7's required over 3.0 cu/ft to achieve anything below 45hz flat, smaller enclosures they roll off terribly bad. JL = great noise makers and space hogs. All these sub companies advertise "our sub only needs 1.0 ft" well if you run the Qts,Vas,FS etc through modeling programs you will see just how poorly the response curve is when in that small of a box. I dont consider a subwoofer a subwoofer if its useless below 50hz. Every 3db = 1/2 the power point at any given frequency. So imagine 100w at 50hz then needing 200w at 45hz (assuming the f3 is 45hz) to keep the output flat. Even though I have plenty of power you end up with over boomy/punchy bass with no actual low end reproduction. But hey the trunk will rattle a lot :-) Whatever anyone does with a box its important to select the correct driver and properly align the enclosure. You would be shocked at how different differnent drivers will sound in the same enclosure. I ran 2 JL's and 1 Rockford and a Boston Acoustic before settling on the Apline in the ported enclosure. Just for grins we tried the other drivers in the various sealed boxes and my ported one. Since none of them were designed for this enclosure they all sounded poorly in different areas of different music.
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:56 PM   #36
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^ thanks for the reply,

I am currently dealing with a Rockford Fosgate P3D412 powered by a Kenwood KAC-9105D
feeding it 500w rms @ 4 ohms

I hope I am happy with the sound of the fiberglass / wood enclosure I will build this winter.
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:31 PM   #37
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Nice work!

I'm curious...why did you avoid the "Free Air" option?

I ask because I'm running the same subs that way






Loving the trunk space it provides!
Can I ask what type of music do you listen to and your opinion on the IDs vs JL IB4's. I have stealth boxes and have a hard time getting them to hit hard. I'm considering other drivers to replace the JLs in the same semi-enclosure and this looks like an interesting option for maintaining my trunk.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:01 PM   #38
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Youngun, I'm a fan of 8s so I like your plan. Just be mindful of how hard it will be to get low.

When I occasionally pop in a Techmaster PEB CD I get frustrated because it sounds empty. It's a hard transition to 8s from bigger subs.
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:03 AM   #39
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^ I hear ya, because super98slc turned me off the whole skipass or rear deck ideas, I guess I'll build a custom box
for the drivers side fender. I may consider a new woofer as the P3 has a 9" mounting depth.
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:20 AM   #40
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Good job op! Btw, erick do you have a build thread? Im trying to do this with 8's too and an infinite baffle. Any suggestions guys? Thanks
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