My TT Stage 2 Build (Step 1) Pics

well now that the car is "done" i will go over everything again.

Originally Posted by zx5rider

well now that the car is "done" i will go over everything again.

Trust me I know how frustrating this can be.

I had a vacuum line buried under the intake crack (well the plastic Y I used cracked). I must have damaged it at some point during reassembly, but once I found it my car was fine. Little things can make a world of annoyance.

Oh wow i just thought of something the vacuum line going to the(not sure what its called but i think is has something to do with emissions and its on the exhaust side)the line shattered and i left it off and I just plugged it by running the hose that should go to that little black can for the OEM exhaust flap back in to the manifold.

If that makes sense.

There should be two vacuum lines running to the back (IIRC - my car does for sure).

The emissions system has the EVAP purge line (with the solenoid on it thats under the intake manifold). The other line on my car runs to the leak diagnosis pump - which also acts as the vent solenoid on the EVAP system. There is also a line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator, you'll need that attached for sure.

So I'm about to drive the car home now.


Now it idles and no more smoke out the exhaust.

But now at idle the red oil pressure light is on. I checked the oil level its good and the light goes off past 1500 rpm.

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Originally Posted by zx5rider

So I'm about to drive the car home now.


Now it idles and no more smoke out the exhaust.

But now at idle the red oil pressure light is on. I checked the oil level its good and the light goes off past 1500 rpm.

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Hook up a gauge ASAP , at idle you want around 0.5bar(7-8psi) of oil press according to my haynes manual

Did you check bearing clearance wasnt too loose when fitting the crank ?

Originally Posted by Pir4t

Hook up a gauge ASAP , at idle you want around 0.5bar(7-8psi) of oil press according to my haynes manual

Did you check bearing clearance wasnt too loose when fitting the crank ?

Dumb question but where do I hook up a gauge. The bottom end was put together for me.

Originally Posted by zx5rider

Dumb question but where do I hook up a gauge. The bottom end was put together for me.

Too little oilpressure is almost never the oil pump , usualy itäs bearing tolerances being too big , if you had it done however then everything should be good and the sensor might be all thats wrong.

You take out the OEM oil pressure sensor and screw one in there

OK well the pressure was fine at first this is a new thing.

Originally Posted by zx5rider

Dumb question but where do I hook up a gauge. The bottom end was put together for me.

You could tap your VAC oil cap, no? (maybe easier than getting at the stock sensor location)

You need to remove the stock oil pressure sensor and add a T fitting(from Lowes) so you could install both sensors.
Be sure to get the cooper washers to seal things back up.

Originally Posted by McSpeed

You could tap your VAC oil cap, no? (maybe easier than getting at the stock sensor location)

True. Does anyone know if the oil pressure is the one that only has one wire on it? as in the connector and 2 prongs but only one wire.

Edit: I looked it up it is the one wire plug.

Originally Posted by ritos530i

You need to remove the stock oil pressure sensor and add a T fitting(from Lowes) so you could install both sensors.
Be sure to get the cooper washers to seal things back up.

Yeah Ill see what I can do after work tomorrow.

Originally Posted by zx5rider

True. Does anyone know if the oil pressure is the one that only has one wire on it? as in the connector and 2 prongs but only one wire.

Edit: I looked it up it is the one wire plug.



Yeah Ill see what I can do after work tomorrow.

You seem like you are not sure what we are saying so If you would like I'll post a photo of how mine is just so you get the picture. Get it, get the picture LOL
Seriously let me know it takes a few seconds and I'll post it up.

I understand I said what I did because the wire on that pressure sensor broke off and I soldered it back on

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The trick most people use is to tap the bolt head (drill hole and use 1/8th inch NPT tap) on the banjo bolt at the back of the oil filter housing, for the line that feeds the vanos assembly.

This is also where your turbo feed line should come from with the TT kits if I'm not mistaken. As a result, you have a nice 1/8th" NPT port that you can buy a T to thread into.

wow so much work, this better dyno over 400whp, if not i'll be pissed with you lol.

Originally Posted by PRDesignsTony

wow so much work, this better dyno over 400whp, if not i'll be pissed with you lol.

I'm sure it will. If not it will still be quick.

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ya, it will be quick, your still faster than an m3 by far. Race a e92 m3 yet? i'm sure your just as quick if not quicker. But hey, if doesn't dyno that much more, you still have a rebuilt engine and the achievement of doing something 95% of people aren't capable of doing

Originally Posted by PRDesignsTony

ya, it will be quick, your still faster than an m3 by far. Race a e92 m3 yet? i'm sure your just as quick if not quicker. But hey, if doesn't dyno that much more, you still have a rebuilt engine and the achievement of doing something 95% of people aren't capable of doing

Yeah well I can't really do it either . Although I took it apart and put it back together and it sort of ran I am not satisfied. So I'm also one of the 95% I feel. Anyways its at an Indy shop now they are a lil jammed and won't look at it till next week. Nothing will ever feel like doing 0-60 in 2.7 sec and the 1/4 in 9 sec......this thing is sooo nasty it scares me.

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This was at the shop along with a Diablo.

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