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Old 04-30-2011, 12:38 PM   #1
Bdave
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My Ride: M3 HPF Stage 3
Ripped a Sub Frame bush...a POLY one!!!

No kidding. With only 450hp and a slipping OEM clutch...at the track on one of my launches.
I never felt it but just got the report from my tuner.
We used the PowerFlex Yellows. Switching to ALL purple or black....what ever the most aggressive color is.

I would BYPASS the YELLOW Powerflex as far as the sub frame bushings go. Go for the harder ones.

Now I wonder about my other yellow bushings....like my RTABS and FCABS???

Whaddya think??

I am going solid on my FRONT diff bush and using UUC limiters on my tranny mounts.
Stock Motor mounts.
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Old 04-30-2011, 12:40 PM   #2
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Those yellow ones seems softer then stock.
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Estoril-E46 View Post
Those yellow ones seems softer then stock.
Yes they are for sure, I had them, I hated them, I though my car was going to roll over after I put them in, stupidest mod I ever tried.
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:02 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Estoril-E46 View Post
Those yellow ones seems softer then stock.
Is this Frank? David? Neither?

Yeah. I thought I would pass it on for what ever its worth.

The Yellow sub frame bushings are a waste of time and money!!!!!
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Old 04-30-2011, 04:14 PM   #5
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Yellows do seem soft for HPF power.
Fwiw I heard: they have to be super lubed up or they will break. Polyurethane doesn't really compress; it 'flows'. If it can't flow where it wants when under load because of poor lubrication, it breaks.
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:08 PM   #6
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I have the yellows installed in my car, and tore the driver side rear one as well. I'd also stay away from the yellows.
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:26 PM   #7
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Seems alot of people wanting something stiffer but not to stiff that would cause more noise inside, But after having both yellow and black, there really is no added inside cabin or noise from the black subframe bushings. Its when you change your Diff bushings to solid is when you get noise.
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Old 04-30-2011, 05:51 PM   #8
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I have the yellows...no issues so far. Guess we'll find out.
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:30 PM   #9
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Please, order the purple one. It is stiffer and harder than the yellow.
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Old 04-30-2011, 11:32 PM   #10
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Please, see the attachment pic.

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Old 05-01-2011, 01:36 AM   #11
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Quote:
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I have the yellows...no issues so far. Guess we'll find out.
Have you checked them recently? No way to really know unless your looking at it from underneath. The subframe actually cuts in to the lower lip of the driver side rear bushing. The car will still drive fine but the subframe is able to move up and down quite a bit, and I'd imagine that it would stress the other mounts a bit more as well.
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Old 05-01-2011, 05:50 AM   #12
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Had a look when I changed the oil last week and everything was good below. I'll keep an eye on it for sure. I actually thought the yellows felt better than stock.
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:47 AM   #13
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My car felt NO different to drive after,the bush was confirmed torn!

If you have yellow you are ASKING for trouble.
AND YES, FOR ALL COLORS, lube em up with the copper colored never seize!
Liberally.

So, guys... What about my OTHER yellow bushings???? Like my RTABS and FCABS???

I have heard the same thing about vibration... no difference for the sub frame bushings, but the solid diff bush...well, that's a diff story...hahaha!
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Old 05-01-2011, 08:53 AM   #14
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Yeah if your going to upgrade subframe bushings just go straight to black I say.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:04 AM   #15
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Those yellow ones seems softer then stock.
I know you! Now I remember. You gave me a ride in your stage 3 M years ago...spinning Hoosiers in 3rd gear! (on the track of course!)

It was right then and there I said F%$#! Super Chargers, I wanna HPF set up!

It took me 3 years..... AND ONLY A stage 2.5, but its supposed to be a good strong tune.

What In GOD"S EARTH did you find FASTER?????????? I HAVE to know!!!! Your link says u are getting rid of your stage 3....
....a stage 4??
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:48 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by joejo9795 View Post
Please, see the attachment pic.

You put them in backwards. Despite the bushing being cut out to be installed that way, when you really look at it, you will have problems putting them in that way. You should install them from the same direction the OEM bushings go in.

The way they are in that picture there is going to be no seating surface on the front bolt/stud. The bushing is only going to seat a little bit on the nut that is raised off the bodys surface.

The rear bushing insert is also too long for the bushing and needs to be cut down or effectively shortened by other means.

Whoever designed the molds at powerflex was not paying any attention at all and definitely confused measurements at one point and didn't realize he had the subframe flipped at another.
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:21 AM   #17
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yeah, i dunno about these... one of mine has started to tear along a lip, i'm probably going akg... or doing like david and making a solid lip.
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Old 05-01-2011, 10:45 AM   #18
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You guys and your crazy boost. See, this is why I don't turbo my car.... Oh, that and money
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Old 05-01-2011, 02:52 PM   #19
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This is why I simply do not like poly anywhere in my car.
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Old 05-01-2011, 04:00 PM   #20
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You put them in backwards. Despite the bushing being cut out to be installed that way, when you really look at it, you will have problems putting them in that way. You should install them from the same direction the OEM bushings go in.

The way they are in that picture there is going to be no seating surface on the front bolt/stud. The bushing is only going to seat a little bit on the nut that is raised off the bodys surface.

The rear bushing insert is also too long for the bushing and needs to be cut down or effectively shortened by other means.

Whoever designed the molds at powerflex was not paying any attention at all and definitely confused measurements at one point and didn't realize he had the subframe flipped at another.
You and bluejeansonfire are certainly more experienced than I but it seems unlikely to me that the mold was accidentally reversed. Powerflex and Bimmerworld have confirmed that the correct mounting for the bushings were as in joejo's the image above. Perhaps it's due to using a different material.

Also, afaik, the most extreme situation subframe bushings are likely to see is heavy acceleration such that the nose comes up; or in serious drag competition, a wheelie. To the lift the front wheels off the ground via the rear subframe, the front of the subframe would have to be pushing up, and the rear pulling down. Therefore I think I'd want the front bushings to have more meat on top and the rears to have more meat on the bottom, just as pictured.

Also, fwiw, I hear Green Grease is the way to go for poly lubrication as it is super tenacious and waterproof. So far so good on my Powerflex SFBs and FCABs.
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