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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 06-04-2011, 05:44 AM   #1
Dan330Ci~
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DIY: Meyle HD Rear Shock Mounts + OE Z3 Reinforcement Plates

This will be my first DIY so what's easier than to start with the good old RSMs. The reason for replacement was they were squeaking like a mother and I couldn't stand it anymore. I couldn't really see too much damage to mine and I believe they are original because the shocks are. This is a replacement of the whole RSM assembly with Meyle HD RSMs and includes all new hardware and the installation of the OE Z3 reinforcement plates. The DIY would also be valid in part for the replacement of the rear shock absorbers. Anyway here goes:

Tools required:

16mm spanner
Adjustable spanner
13mm socket
18mm socket
Breaker bar/extension
Torque wrench(es) capable of 14NM/10lb ft, 28NM/20lb ft, 100NM/73lb ft
Mole grips/vice

Parts required:

Meyle HD RSM (2x) 300 335 2102/HD (replaces 1 092 362)
Z3 reinforcement plate (2x) 8 413 359
Locking nut (2x) 6 773 882
Nut (4x) 9 904 295
Upper plate (2x) 6 788 999 (this is the latest part no. listed for the Z4)
*Lower plate (2x) 6 762 325
*Washer (2x) 6 779 398
Gasket (4x) 6 772 864

*These items have been painted to provide some corrosion resistance, any hardwearing chassis type paint would be suitable.

On a side note the fastener part numbers listed above are for the ZNS3 components where applicable. You can learn more about ZNS3 here.





Note the studs are marked 10.9.













Prerequisites (optional):

Raise the rear of the car using ramps or axle stands. Engage the handbrake and first gear, also chock the front wheels. This gives much more room to undo and tighten the lower shock absorber bolts and also more room to remove and replace the shock absorber/RSM assembly.





Step 1:

Remove the carpet boot liners on both sides, then remove the sound insulation from the RSMs on both sides.

Left side:



Right side:



Step 2:

Remove the 4 upper nuts from the RSMs using the 13mm socket.

Left side, 2 silver nuts.



Right side, 2 silver nuts.



Step 3:

Remove the 2 lower bolts from the shock absorbers using the 18mm socket and breaker bar/extension. The shock absorber/RSM assemblies will be released from the car so support them with your free hand.

Left side shown, 1 bolt. Right side is the same. Note thrust washer under bolt head, the shock absorbers must be reinstalled in this orientation.



Step 4:

Remove the shock absorber/RSM assemblies from the car. Try to keep them as upright as possible when removing them and also while replacing the RSMs. If they are stored horizontally for any length of time you will need to pump the shock absorber vertically around 12 times very slowly to release any air.

This is the shock absorber/RSM assembly. Note the texture of the gasket is like hard plastic, not paper like when new.



Note corrosion of the lower plate, washer and shock shaft, this is the worse of my two. This deterioration occurs due to these items being exposed to the rear wheel arch area. This is the reason for painting the washer and lower plate to try to avoid or at least delay some of this corrosion.



Note original shock absorbers circa 2003.



Step 5:

Remove the 2 top shock absorber shaft nuts using the adjustable spanner on the flat of the shafts and the 16mm spanner on the nuts.

Remove the parts from the shock absorbers. Note the mess that is the upper plate due to the rubber washer which was once bonded to it.



Step 6:

Assemble the new parts onto the shock absorber shafts. The correct order is washer -> lower plate -> RSM -> upper plate -> nut. Note orientation of parts below, the picture shows some old parts.

Grip the shock absorber shaft using mole grips or a vice, ensure to protect the shaft - I used some plastic under the cloth. Torque tighten the nut to 14NM/10lb ft.



Step 7:

Clean the areas where the RSMs meet from below.



Place 1 gasket onto each RSM and reinstall each shock absorber/RSM assembly on the car from below, inserting the RSM studs through the holes in the shock tower. Insert the lower bolts in loosely to hold the assemblies in place. Ensure the thrust washer orientation is correct.



Step 8:

Place a gasket* and a Z3 reinforcement plate over the RSMs from within the boot and torque tighten the upper 2 nuts on each side to 28NM/20lb ft. Note the chamfered edge of the large hole in the reinforcement plate goes downwards to correspond with the radius of the shock tower.

*I used gaskets in this location to provide some slight isolation and to protect the paintwork however they are optional.

If at this point the studs have not protruded through the shock tower fully either push down on the rear of the car or use the old nuts to pull the studs fully through, then proceed as above.

Step 9:

Admire your handywork through the wheelarch



Let me know if I've missed anything.
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Last edited by Dan330Ci~; 06-12-2011 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 06-05-2011, 01:24 PM   #2
Chris3Duke
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Great DIY. I have a leaking rear shock that is shot, and am considering replacing it. I suppose I should check the spring as well. Thinking maybe H&R cupkit as the car is an 02 with 108,000 miles on it, and the rest of the suspension is probably getting pretty worn.

Did you consider replacing the shock as well?
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Old 06-05-2011, 01:55 PM   #3
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Nice DIY.
Beat me to it.
I am the process of doing my rear shocks with a retrofit Bilsteins M3 shocks... I'm still waiting for my RSMs to arrive.

Smart move on the rust protection with painting the lower plate & washers.

Last edited by BimmersGarage; 06-05-2011 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:56 PM   #4
dirsh
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great DIY!
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:26 PM   #5
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Excellent write-up!
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Old 06-08-2011, 07:19 PM   #6
Dan330Ci~
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris3Duke View Post
Great DIY. I have a leaking rear shock that is shot, and am considering replacing it. I suppose I should check the spring as well. Thinking maybe H&R cupkit as the car is an 02 with 108,000 miles on it, and the rest of the suspension is probably getting pretty worn.

Did you consider replacing the shock as well?
I did, especially considering the shaft corrosion but I decided not to as my original ones are not leaking. They now have 67k miles on them which is about the right age for replacement to retain optimum freshness but I can't justify that right now. My plan is to leave them in until 100k miles if they survive that long and then replace all 4 shocks and springs with either S338A M-Tech II parts or aftermarket (Moton Clubsport or similar) depending on whether the car is still DD.

Also thanks for the compliments, I will have a coolant system overhaul DIY coming soon with installation of Stett Performance hoses and also a complete rear axle bushing DIY with the installation of aluminium subframe mounts and various other upgraded bushings (buying a 10 ton hydraulic press for this job ).

I just did all my tensioners/pulleys/belts etc. too. I feel like I should open a shop and charge myself for all the work I do
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Last edited by Dan330Ci~; 06-08-2011 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 06-09-2011, 06:15 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by BimmersGarage View Post
Nice DIY.
Beat me to it.
I am the process of doing my rear shocks with a retrofit Bilsteins M3 shocks... I'm still waiting for my RSMs to arrive.

Smart move on the rust protection with painting the lower plate & washers.
Thanks, are you using the OE E46 M3 rear shocks?
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Old 11-03-2011, 09:53 AM   #8
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Good DYI , this its my next weekend job
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Old 11-03-2011, 09:05 PM   #9
jasonbimmer
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fyi if some of you guys cant align the bottom bolts to the control arm, try jack up the axle a bit higher.
also the final torque should be applied when the wheels are on the ground (shock compressed by the weight of the car).
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Old 11-18-2011, 04:10 PM   #10
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Good job on the diy!!
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Old 01-07-2012, 02:45 PM   #11
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HELP PLEASE: What's the torque spec on those 18mm bolts at the bottom of the shock?
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Old 01-07-2012, 03:45 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by BeRzErKaS View Post
HELP PLEASE: What's the torque spec on those 18mm bolts at the bottom of the shock?
100NM/73lb ft

Forgot to add that lest step
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:24 PM   #13
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Well done DIY ... thanks for posting!
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:28 PM   #14
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I was under the impression we needed only two paper gaskets like p/n: 6 772 864, one on each side and ordered the same.
Shall I order 2 more, or pay the dealer for the 2? Is it absolute necessity to have those gaskets?
I was thinking to do this tomorrow and now I am short of 2 gaskets.
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:50 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by trj View Post
I was under the impression we needed only two paper gaskets like p/n: 6 772 864, one on each side and ordered the same.
Shall I order 2 more, or pay the dealer for the 2? Is it absolute necessity to have those gaskets?
I was thinking to do this tomorrow and now I am short of 2 gaskets.
You do only need two gaskets to go between the RSMs and the undersides of the shock towers, one per side. However, if you are adding the reinforcements it is a good idea to put a gasket under each one on the top side of the shock towers, but it's not a neccessity, just a nice to have.

I think I bought 8 and have 4 left in my garage for when I buy new shocks or whatever.
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:07 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Dan330Ci~ View Post
You do only need two gaskets to go between the RSMs and the undersides of the shock towers, one per side. However, if you are adding the reinforcements it is a good idea to put a gasket under each one on the top side of the shock towers, but it's not a neccessity, just a nice to have.

I think I bought 8 and have 4 left in my garage for when I buy new shocks or whatever.
Thanks, I was just about to order the gaskets. I guess I will order 2 more anyway. Its not a lot of $$$ anyway.
Yah, I am adding z3 reinforcement plates with the Meyle HD RSMs.
Doing the suspension overhaul slowly, RSMs this weekend, M3 RTABS with limiters probably by next weekend, and FCABs by another.

What are the symptoms of busted RSMs aside from clunking noise? I had clunking noise, but it was due to the loose factory jack inside the spare tire well. I bought the RSMs so I will change them anyway. But will there be any difference in ride quality(tightness) with the z3 plates an meyle HD RSMs? I am a bit confused.
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:30 AM   #17
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My symptoms were squeaking and rattling coming from the rear end of the car. I haven't noticed any difference in ride quality at all.
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Old 02-14-2014, 06:28 PM   #18
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Thanks, I will try this DIY. However is there any side that should go up for the gasket as the gasket seems to have two different texture on each side.
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