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Suspension & Braking Forum by BimmerWorld
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:17 AM   #21
myles01
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I am still having the same issue with the control arm bushings, the front shocks, control arms, tie rods, and sway bars have been replaced recently to try and correct the problem. They have broken again, however under warranty, the shop says they are going to put something other than OEM since it seems by driving habits are breaking them every 5,000 miles or so. This will be my 6th pair. I have owned the car since 107.000 miles now has 220.000 miles.
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:44 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by myles01 View Post
I am still having the same issue with the control arm bushings, the front shocks, control arms, tie rods, and sway bars have been replaced recently to try and correct the problem. They have broken again, however under warranty, the shop says they are going to put something other than OEM since it seems by driving habits are breaking them every 5,000 miles or so. This will be my 6th pair. I have owned the car since 107.000 miles now has 220.000 miles.
Maybe try the Powerflex bushing I hear great things about them so maybe worth a try.
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:33 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by myles01 View Post
I am still having the same issue with the control arm bushings, the front shocks, control arms, tie rods, and sway bars have been replaced recently to try and correct the problem. They have broken again, however under warranty, the shop says they are going to put something other than OEM since it seems by driving habits are breaking them every 5,000 miles or so. This will be my 6th pair. I have owned the car since 107.000 miles now has 220.000 miles.
Unless you are drifting on cobblestone streets, it seems very unlikely that your driving habits are breaking OEM FCAB's that fast. They are not perfect, but they simply are not that delicate.
You mentioned in an earlier post that someone had suggested a possible frame issue. Did you ever get the car on a body shop frame machine, to eliminate that possibility?
Also, has the same shop installed all 6 sets of bushings? If so, then it would seem clear that they are damaging them when they are installing them.
What size wheels do you have on the car? Are you running some particularly heavy 19's or possibly even 20's?
Finally, even though it is not a great solution, since something is not right here, but have you considered a solid bushing, such as a Meyle HD or some urethane bushings? Have you tried something like that, and if so, what were the results?
I can't help but feel that something is missing from this story. So, any details you can provide would help clear things up. There is no reason why you should be running through FCAB's that fast, and really no reason why you should have had to change so much of your suspension to try to prevent FCAB's from blowing out every 5k miles, unless there is something wrong or something different about the car.
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:38 AM   #24
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How are you identifying that your bushings are failed? What brings you into the shop?
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:46 AM   #25
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Not tightening them correctly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by myles01 View Post
I am still having the same issue with the control arm bushings, the front shocks, control arms, tie rods, and sway bars have been replaced recently to try and correct the problem. They have broken again, however under warranty, the shop says they are going to put something other than OEM since it seems by driving habits are breaking them every 5,000 miles or so. This will be my 6th pair. I have owned the car since 107.000 miles now has 220.000 miles.
Most control arm bushings should be installed snug, then torqued to spec after the car is lowered and its weight is on the tires. This puts the bushings in their normal working position before they are tightened down. If the shop is tightening them while the wheels are still hanging and unweighted, this could be why they are breaking prematurely, since it puts a huge twisting strain on the bushings as the car is lowered.

Ask your mechanic: When they are torquing the bushing bolts?
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:57 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by BaliDawg View Post
Most control arm bushings should be installed snug, then torqued to spec after the car is lowered and its weight is on the tires. This puts the bushings in their normal working position before they are tightened down. If the shop is tightening them while the wheels are still hanging and unweighted, this could be why they are breaking prematurely, since it puts a huge twisting strain on the bushings as the car is lowered.

Ask your mechanic: When they are torquing the bushing bolts?
Only way to do that is with a pit. When you think about the mechanics of it, this does not accomplish a thing. No disrespect but I think your premise is incorrect. The torquing of those four bolts has no bearing on cab longevity.

Last edited by Dave1027; 09-05-2013 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:07 AM   #27
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The torquing of those four bolts has no bearing on cab longevity.
+1
I've yet to hear a solid explanation for that, nor read it in any official instructions.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:20 AM   #28
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I just got a quote for 1200 for front control arm bushings and differential mounts on my m3
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:39 AM   #29
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This would be a valid point if it was e30. where this procedure would work the best due to round shape of the control arm tip. On the other had, e46 setup is different, because the tip of the control arm and the bushing in self are octagon shaped and designed to fit only one way, that has no bearing when the part is under load or not.....
Which actually making me think, if your (the guys with 5k mile bushings) car is slammed, that may result in premature bushing wear due it being twisted and always under unnecessary pressure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BaliDawg View Post
Most control arm bushings should be installed snug, then torqued to spec after the car is lowered and its weight is on the tires. This puts the bushings in their normal working position before they are tightened down. If the shop is tightening them while the wheels are still hanging and unweighted, this could be why they are breaking prematurely, since it puts a huge twisting strain on the bushings as the car is lowered.

Ask your mechanic: When they are torquing the bushing bolts?
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:54 AM   #30
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On the other had, e46 setup is different, because the tip of the control arm and the bushing in self are octagon shaped and designed to fit only one way,
Hexagonal

Last edited by Stinger9; 12-14-2013 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:44 AM   #31
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Hexagonal
Thanks.
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