Convertible Top electrical troubleshooting tools

Originally Posted by wes2952

I have a similar problem with my top. Wanted to check out the wiring harness at the first pivot point from the top front. I have to manually unlock the top from the windshield. When I try to manually open the top futher to get a little play in the wiring harness the top is a bit stiff and will not easily pivot up. Worried about what would happen if I try forcing it. Is there an easier way to do this?

When you want to pull the top front up, you have to pull the back up as well to get slack. Remember that when the top operates automatically, the front and back come up at the same time, when the back clears the cover, the cover comes up, then the whole thing folds into the storage compartment.

Actually I think that is incorrect. The sequence is the cab lid unlocks, the front opens, then the back lifts. If you can't lift the front enough the cab lid is likely locked and or there is still pressure in the system

1) Use the allen key and manually release the top (completely). Crank until you can't crank any further
1a) If necessary, remove rear seat to disengage locks to cab lid
2) use the allen key to crank the bowden cables under the rear seat to disengage the locks
3) Lift the front of the top and support that with a piece of wood or something.

Here is a pic of my car when I laid the tutorial out some time ago.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=790169

I followed the rcommendation. Manually opened and disengaged front of top at the windshield. Manually opened the lid locks located under the rear seat using the allen wrench after depressing the disengage button. Still no joy. Top will not open any further than a small gap at the windshield. Pressure in the system? How do you relieve that?

Thanks man... when i half opened the top to see where the harness goes, it seems like it goes right inside the metal frame of the top itself... and i cant find/see the ends of the harness or where to unclip them from after they "disappear" into the soft top frame... do i cut off old connectors and pull out harness (with string)?

need to have a go at this and document everything.

Originally Posted by djsilver

I have not replaced the harness yet, as the repaired one is still working. The header is a metal cover over the mechanism that latches the top to the windshield frame. I'm sure changing the harness won't be a cake-walk but the key is to tie strings to the old connectors when you pull them out so that you can use the same strings to pull the new ones into place.

mate, when you use that allen wrench to disengage top from windshield, you need to keep turning the living piss out of that wrench... , until you cant turn it any more, (it will spring back when you have reached this point). Also make sure the lid lock is actually unlocked under the seat (you can feel it when the allen wrench is loose after about half or 3/4 turn with wrench. After this then try and lift the front and back of soft top simultaneously and open top cover to pull everything back and into the top cover.

Originally Posted by wes2952

I followed the rcommendation. Manually opened and disengaged front of top at the windshield. Manually opened the lid locks located under the rear seat using the allen wrench after depressing the disengage button. Still no joy. Top will not open any further than a small gap at the windshield. Pressure in the system? How do you relieve that?

Thanks, Landlorder. I was manually opening up the top just enough to open up from the windshield. As you said to do, I cranked it open to full stop with the allen wrench. The top opened up fine after that. One wire was completely severed at the bend. Now repaired and the top opening and closing is working fine.

First thanks for an awesome thread. I tested all the pairs and triples and found continuity on all. Any suggestions for what to check next? Thanks.

I tested continuity among all the pins. 9/18, 8/17, 7/16 all make a beep. The rest show a number in the 400s, except for 13/14. I'm assuming that means there's no continuity between 13/14 (Cowl Unlocked Sensor).

I cut open the harness in the top, just above the drivers side window, expecting to see a broken wire or two where most people have resolved this issue. My Green/White (13) and Brown/Yellow (14) look fine - they aren't broken.

Do you think 13 and/or 14 are broken somewhere else? If so, where do you think another breakage point might be?

Do you think it's possible 13 and/or 14 are broken in that spot but the brake is inside the wire itself (not visible)?

Do you think this means the Cowl Unlocked Sensor (S145) is broken?

THANKS!

I fixed it!

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=976213

Originally Posted by 4BUCK

I tested continuity among all the pins. 9/18, 8/17, 7/16 all make a beep. The rest show a number in the 400s, except for 13/14. I'm assuming that means there's no continuity between 13/14 (Cowl Unlocked Sensor).

I cut open the harness in the top, just above the drivers side window, expecting to see a broken wire or two where most people have resolved this issue. My Green/White (13) and Brown/Yellow (14) look fine - they aren't broken.

Do you think 13 and/or 14 are broken somewhere else? If so, where do you think another breakage point might be?

Do you think it's possible 13 and/or 14 are broken in that spot but the brake is inside the wire itself (not visible)?

Do you think this means the Cowl Unlocked Sensor (S145) is broken?

THANKS!

Props to vader007! Dude, you pointed me right to it. I just took a chance and sliced into that harness at the first bend and sure 'nuff, green striped wire broken completely in two. In my case I butt spliced it which eliminated the need for more wire since the butt splice barrel adds just enough length. Taped it all real solid with 3M electrical tape and voila!
Thanks man!