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E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 04-22-2014, 06:38 AM   #41
Asteriksi
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Hi,

My top just stopped after opening a bit. I could close and lock it manually. After which I checked fault codes. It gave Error Code Number 7E (126) and Error Code 7C (124) Unknown position of soft top.

For the Error code 7E (126) there was no explanation. Does anyone have or happen to know where to find list for these CVM error codes?
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:20 AM   #42
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asteriksi View Post
Hi,

My top just stopped after opening a bit. I could close and lock it manually. After which I checked fault codes. It gave Error Code Number 7E (126) and Error Code 7C (124) Unknown position of soft top.

For the Error code 7E (126) there was no explanation. Does anyone have or happen to know where to find list for these CVM error codes?
I think you can safely assume you have a broken wire and start investigating.
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:42 PM   #43
Asteriksi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
I think you can safely assume you have a broken wire and start investigating.
I've been investigating but not become much wiser.

I tested these wire pairs:
Pairs to test: (each pair should show continuity)
18 & 9; 17 & 8; 16 & 7; 14 & 13; 4 & 5.
Triplets to test - (any TWO of these three pins should give continuity.):
10 & 11 & 12; 1 & 2 & 3.

All other pairs have discontinuity but pairs 13&14 and 4&5 behave strange. They do not conduct or have measurable resistance when measuring on different resistance ranges with multimeter. But when measuring on diode conductivity test option on multimeter both of these pairs seem to have some conductivity.

Where can I find for what sensors these wire pairs are related to? Some of those old links didn't work anymore and I couldn't find info on which wires go where.

When testing functioning of the top it seems when running the "Top Raising sequence" system can't get the top compartment cover open. When manually opening the top cover locks and manually lifting the cover about an inch the system wakes up and starts lifting the cover and rolls the top up. Next it stalls when it should lower the top compartment cover back. So the problem seems to be related to sensing compartment cover position.

When running the "Top lowering sequence" (starting with top fully raised) sequence stops when it should raise the compartment cover. So there we are again.

Have to continue tomorrow, running quite late here for tonight...
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Old 05-03-2014, 11:49 AM   #44
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:24 AM   #45
CabrioPassion
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I'm not sure if this is correct thread, so I'm sorry if I'm getting wrong, but I need know how find the sensor of "black box" that permit "roof" open. Sorry my bad english, thank you, bye.
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Old 05-14-2014, 04:27 PM   #46
pppham
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I have same symptoms like this post (at the same time my signal outside is working but no blinker on the dashboard. radio head unit is not working). Didn't have time and decided to take to the indy. No codes in the system. However, they managed to find the break in the hardness (driver side). They fixed it, but they claimed the top still acting up aka some time it will open/close normally and there is time it go up/down very slow. They said it was the motor. I authorized them to order one (hence they told me about $300 new). Call them today, they said the order a wrong one. The new one will cost abour $1200. The vert has been in their shop for almost 3 weeks.

Questions and hope you guys can help:

1. What is this motor they are talking about? Is this motor for the hydraulic system?
2. Where is the motor located?
3. No Codes - is this possible?

Thanks so much for your time
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:48 AM   #47
Asteriksi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asteriksi View Post
I've been investigating but not become much wiser.

I tested these wire pairs:
Pairs to test: (each pair should show continuity)
18 & 9; 17 & 8; 16 & 7; 14 & 13; 4 & 5.
Triplets to test - (any TWO of these three pins should give continuity.):
10 & 11 & 12; 1 & 2 & 3.

All other pairs have discontinuity but pairs 13&14 and 4&5 behave strange. They do not conduct or have measurable resistance when measuring on different resistance ranges with multimeter. But when measuring on diode conductivity test option on multimeter both of these pairs seem to have some conductivity.

Where can I find for what sensors these wire pairs are related to? Some of those old links didn't work anymore and I couldn't find info on which wires go where.

When testing functioning of the top it seems when running the "Top Raising sequence" system can't get the top compartment cover open. When manually opening the top cover locks and manually lifting the cover about an inch the system wakes up and starts lifting the cover and rolls the top up. Next it stalls when it should lower the top compartment cover back. So the problem seems to be related to sensing compartment cover position.

When running the "Top lowering sequence" (starting with top fully raised) sequence stops when it should raise the compartment cover. So there we are again.

Have to continue tomorrow, running quite late here for tonight...
I've done some more research on the top now.

- Checked the hydraulic fluid level which was too high. Removed extra fluid. No help.

- Checked the bowden cables tightness and correct installation on the storage compartment lock motor under the back seat. No help.

- I have a friend with similar vert and tried to change CVM- and GM5-modules from his car to see if the control electronics are fried. No help. And still get the same error code E7 with bmw scanner.

And now my top is even more disfunctional. It is stuck on up position and can't get it opened even with manual operation. Like the pressure on hydraulic system wouldn't go down even when waiting with no power on.

Gotta think and continue later. Any good hints/advices?

I already found one local repairshop that has experience on these tops but they didn't have time available until in 4 weeks....
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:58 PM   #48
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asteriksi View Post
And now my top is even more disfunctional. It is stuck on up position and can't get it opened even with manual operation. Like the pressure on hydraulic system wouldn't go down even when waiting with no power on.
By "up" you mean "closed"? ie latched to the windshield?

If so, and manually cranking won't unlatch the top, then your latches are broken. Search, you're in for a painful process.
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:05 AM   #49
CarbonZHP
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Glad to see this is still current. Mine acted up today, operation stopped about half way though closing the top. I've been screwing with it and have been able to manually close and open it. I'll check my hydrolic pump and wire continuity. How do I check continuity?
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Old 05-16-2014, 08:12 AM   #50
Asteriksi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
By "up" you mean "closed"? ie latched to the windshield?

If so, and manually cranking won't unlatch the top, then your latches are broken. Search, you're in for a painful process.
Yep I meant closed.

I can manually unlatch the latches at the top of windshield if those are the latches you meant.

After that I can't continue manually opening the top since the back part (back of the top where window is located) won't manually rise up to uncover the storage compartment lid. Nor will the front part of the top start folding. Tried to do this simultaneously with a helping hand, waited long enough for the pressure go down at the hydraulic system, manually used the motor under the back seat to unlock storage compartment lid locks.
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:41 AM   #51
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asteriksi View Post
Yep I meant closed.

I can manually unlatch the latches at the top of windshield if those are the latches you meant.

After that I can't continue manually opening the top since the back part (back of the top where window is located) won't manually rise up to uncover the storage compartment lid. Nor will the front part of the top start folding. Tried to do this simultaneously with a helping hand, waited long enough for the pressure go down at the hydraulic system, manually used the motor under the back seat to unlock storage compartment lid locks.
Post another thread and I'll reply with what you are doing wrong, this is the wrong thread to continue this conversation.

Or moderators, can you split our recent posts into a new thread?
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:34 PM   #52
CarbonZHP
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Fixed mine using this thread Wire was broken in the commonly found area but it was wire 4. Huge thanks to you guys!
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:17 PM   #53
pppham
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So, I went to the shop yesterday, the indy told me even with the new motor the top still is working slowly. Meaning the top will go up/down sporatically. I am very confused now. Is this sync issued as Vader007 stated in his post?

Also, just found out they don't have DIS or MOdic to trouble shoot CVM instead they used GT1. My understanding from this post and from the Conv. top info in the PDF file is that DIS and MOdic is the only software. Is this correct? If it's do you think, I should take my car back and follow trouble shooting as posted by Vader007?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:39 PM   #54
savage0990
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Need help e46 convertible roof issue

Quote:
Originally Posted by djsilver View Post
I just finished repairing a broken wiring harness on my wife's car with help from info found here and other places and would like to put the resources I found in one thread. The mods can even sticky this one if they like.

The BMW TIS/ETK system can be found various places on the web. It will have instructions on how to work on the top and part numbers if needed. Here's just one place I used;
http://spaghetticoder.org/bmw/

Here's the BMW wiring diagram system; (better than the one above)
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/index.htm

I've attached a pdf of the CVM pinout diagram, with notes. I've listed the wire colors for the connection to the convertible top harness and noted the device numbers from the top manual where possible.

Here's my advice if the top is not working. Take it to someone that can read the codes, even if you plan on doing the work yourself. Pay the diagnostic fee and be happy. Otherwise you're completely in the dark.

Now for the real work!

1. All the sensors (except for the storage compartment floor/S239) are Hall-effect sensors and will have some resistance on them regardless of position. They have no moving parts and have a low failure rate, so if the software diagnosis is a bad sensor/valve/motor, it's very likely there's a broken wire.

2. Now you or your mechanic will have to remove the back seat and rear left passenger armrest and trim panel to access the CVM. For the next check, unplug the top harness (white connector) from the CVM and check for resistance on matching pairs according to the diagram. Start with the one that was noted bad in the software diagnosis. All the sensors and solenoid valves on this harness should have some resistance on them.

3. If any of them show an open circuit it's time to get serious, as the next step requres you to start taking stuff apart. The next step is to disconnect the questionable device from the harness and test it, and if it's bad, replace it.

4. If the device tested is not open circuit that means a wire is broken in the harness. You'll have to get some extra wire and check continuity on both wires to the pair in question to determine which one is broken. Once you find it, it's up to you if you want to split the harness and look for it. I bought some 18ga black automotive wire and ran a jumper along the length of the harness from the top latch sensor all the way to the CVM connector.

Notes;
1. My experience was with the top harness but similar techniques can be used on the other harnesses connected to the CVM.
2. Remember that the windows and storage compartment cover are controlled by the general module, so when you push the up or down button, control is handed back and forth between the GM and the CVM twice per cycle.
3. Don't let someone sell you new top latches just because there's cracks in the plastic jack-screws. The plastic is cast onto the end of a metal bar. The metal bar has two holes drilled through it so the plastic is cast through the holes and it won't fall off!

If you have or find more tools for troubleshooting the convertible top feel free to add it here. If you find mistakes in my information please point it out.

Thanks,
DJ


NEED HELP,

My roof symptoms match the symptoms above, however my wires are in tact and not frayed or damaged.

the only extra symptom I have is, a clicking coming from the rear passenger side panel (possible CVM)

it clicks when I turn on the ignition and when the roof opens its 2 inch's it begins to click again

please help

any advice is greatly appreciated_nr_
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:49 AM   #55
KillerDave
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Hey guys!

I have a problem with my '01 convertible....

It drops the roof no problem but with I want to raise it again, the rear cover opens and nothing else happens...
It's like the pump keeps on pumping until it times out...?

Any ideas????
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:48 AM   #56
benbrown457
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I'm having a similar problem with my m3 I'm about to book it into a specialist, although if anyone can tell me what it is would be greatly appreciated


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Old 07-09-2014, 11:35 AM   #57
taylor192
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Originally Posted by benbrown457 View Post
I'm having a similar problem with my m3 I'm about to book it into a specialist, although if anyone can tell me what it is would be greatly appreciated
Did you troubleshoot the wires visually and electronically? If so and no luck, create a new thread. If not, WTF?
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:36 AM   #58
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerDave View Post
Hey guys!

I have a problem with my '01 convertible....

It drops the roof no problem but with I want to raise it again, the rear cover opens and nothing else happens...
It's like the pump keeps on pumping until it times out...?

Any ideas????
This is the wrong thread for that. Post a new thread and I'll respond.
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Old 07-09-2014, 10:24 PM   #59
dtamack
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Electrical fault - top wiring fixed but still nothing

I read all the threads I could find, but still could not find anyone with my particular issue. I think this is the right thread to add to.

I diagnosed and fixed the typical broken wire above the driver's seat, everything else checked out in terms of continuity. (And up to this point, it was so easy I thought I was a genius.) When I re-plugged everything in, the convertible top LED would flash, but neither button did anything. After about 20 seconds, the light would go out and still nothing would happen. Cycling the key does nothing either.

If I unplug the module and re-plug it, the same thing will occur. When I re-plug the module, there are slight noises as if the hydraulics are being pressurized. The top is currently folded into the cover, but it will not latch. The same thing happens when the top was up but not latched.

I did discover that my trunk lid will not unlatch with the key fob or the button by the footwell. Also, the trunk lights do not come on when the trunk is open. I thought I checked all the fuses. Any guidance? Is there a common pass-through for all the trunk wires, including the hydraulics? Do I need to break-down and bother someone with a CVMII code reader?
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Old 07-10-2014, 02:36 AM   #60
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtamack View Post
I read all the threads I could find, but still could not find anyone with my particular issue. I think this is the right thread to add to.

I diagnosed and fixed the typical broken wire above the driver's seat, everything else checked out in terms of continuity. (And up to this point, it was so easy I thought I was a genius.) When I re-plugged everything in, the convertible top LED would flash, but neither button did anything. After about 20 seconds, the light would go out and still nothing would happen. Cycling the key does nothing either.

If I unplug the module and re-plug it, the same thing will occur. When I re-plug the module, there are slight noises as if the hydraulics are being pressurized. The top is currently folded into the cover, but it will not latch. The same thing happens when the top was up but not latched.

I did discover that my trunk lid will not unlatch with the key fob or the button by the footwell. Also, the trunk lights do not come on when the trunk is open. I thought I checked all the fuses. Any guidance? Is there a common pass-through for all the trunk wires, including the hydraulics? Do I need to break-down and bother someone with a CVMII code reader?
If the trunk won't respond electronically, then likely you have a broken wire in the trunk harness. Common problem, search.

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