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E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 07-07-2011, 03:29 PM   #1
gary442
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Convert rear side window seals

I have new set of rear side window seals ( the ones that go on the front leading edge of the rear windows and interface with the front side windows) but can't figure how to remove them. Are they glued ? Do I simply heat the crap out of them ...? The new seals look like they simply slip on ( and glue with some silicon adhesive I assume) but the old ones won't budge.

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Old 07-08-2011, 06:35 PM   #2
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Old 08-08-2011, 04:24 PM   #3
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The clip on my right rear quarter window broke and damaged the seal this weekend. So like you, I need a solution. I read on other posts that there is no easy way to remove and replace the gasket. One post suggested buying a used window from a salvage yard. I checked out the internet and there is a yard about 30 miles from me that has two right quarter windows for about $50 each. Has anyone got any other suggestions?
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gary442 View Post
I have new set of rear side window seals ( the ones that go on the front leading edge of the rear windows and interface with the front side windows) but can't figure how to remove them. Are they glued ? Do I simply heat the crap out of them ...? The new seals look like they simply slip on ( and glue with some silicon adhesive I assume) but the old ones won't budge.
Post a pic of your new part. I need a close-up of the upper end - from the end.
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:35 PM   #5
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I had this problem. The cheapest route is to get a used window off of ebay. The dealer wanted around $500 to replace the window. They said it's easier to replace the window than just the rubber seal.
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Old 08-12-2011, 09:09 AM   #6
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Side window seals

Pics attached....hard to believe that no one has replaced these yet
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Old 08-14-2011, 05:33 PM   #7
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ok, i had to chime in, had the gasket replaced at an auto glass shop on my vert. cost me $60.00. they had it done in less than an hour. he had to use a grinder to remove some of the aluminium trim, just tell them to be careful. the guy that did mine scuffed up the glass where the gasket go's on. i was alittle pissed, but they fixed a realy bad chip/crack in the windshield for free, and they had a guy come in to buff out the worst of the scuff marks. all is good. oh, and buy the way the gasket is glued on with an apoxy, so i would not try it your self.
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Old 08-15-2011, 04:53 PM   #8
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Thanks for the info.....I have ordered a spare glass from a junk yard to experiment on and this information really helps. I am more interested in the DIY aspect but if I can't do this, I will go to an auto glass shop. I will report back on my progress, or not. thanks again

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Old 08-15-2011, 05:20 PM   #9
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Let me know how you make out with your trial run with the junk yard window. If you take pictures of your progress and post them that would be great.
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:07 PM   #10
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good luck with the DIY. I think the epoxy could be the biggest problem.
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Old 08-18-2011, 11:52 PM   #11
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Like I said before, the fastest and easiest (as well as cheapest) option is to get the whole window used.
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:47 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by bmw335ion18s View Post
Like I said before, the fastest and easiest (as well as cheapest) option is to get the whole window used.
I think that might be the way to go also, although I am concerned that the seal on any window from a salvage yard may also be prone to failure due to its age. If the OP can find a way to have a DIY on a new seal, and not have to remove the window that would be a win/win. It may be a long shot, but I'm in to see how he does.
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Old 08-19-2011, 02:55 PM   #13
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changing weather stripping on rear vert window

The black plastic molding with weather stripping (as combined part) is replaceable for the rear window. I ordered a pair from Tischer BMW and changed mine out last year.

www.getbmwparts.com

Part numbers for either side is:

Part Number: 51368209421 (left)
List Price: $79.49
Your Price: $63.59

Part Number: 51368209422 (right)
List Price: $79.49
Your Price: $63.59

To remove the original molding, use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive then use a little bit of muscle to just pull it out. Then sparingly use silicon to re-adhere the new molding to the window. Don't lower the window and allow 24 hours for the silicon to cure.
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Old 08-19-2011, 03:21 PM   #14
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$120....when you can get a whole window for $35.
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Old 08-19-2011, 06:41 PM   #15
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I am doing this next week and will report back...thanks all
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:01 AM   #16
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Any update Gary?
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Old 09-08-2011, 09:36 PM   #17
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Yea I would like to know also I gotta do both of mine !!
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:01 PM   #18
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Ok been there and done that!!

Yeah mine tore over time and the plastic end that holds the rubber to the metal edge would pop out all of the time when putting the window down, and yes it is a real PITA. I first tried to pull it off and that did not work. I next tried to to slip a razor blade on both side of the glass between the glass and the metal trim piece, running the blade up and down to cut the adheasive on the sides. This did work to a point but that B1tch is sealed on there, even on the edge of the glass in a metal channel. Finally I decided to use the Dremel with a metal disk. That worked.

Once I pryed the top part of the metal edge partially off the glass I had an idea as to how far in I could cut the metal. So carefully I cut the metal along the glass edge, missing the glass in the channel but splitting the metal edge into three pieces. Once I got to a certain point I pryed the metal away from the leading edge of the glass, and used the razor blade to cut the remaining inner and outer strips away from the glass.

I then cleaned up all the left over adhesive. I went to NAPA and bought a 3M high strength black adhesive that the window guys use for windsheilds. I think the tube was close to 10 dollars. Applied the adhesive into the metal track and repositioned on the quarter window.

This was definately a diffiult task and took some patients and was a little nerve racking because I didn't want to nic the glass nor shatter it. (although if you do nic it, it is covered by the metal track) All in all it took me a couple hours to figure out how to get that metal piece off. If I had to do the other side, now I know how that thing is on there and I would just rip through with a dremel so I'm figuring that after the first one it would maybe take me an hour to do it again.

I think I was quoted over $150 for a new quarter window through the dealer and I don't think that covered installation, so spending I think $30 on the trim (which had to be special ordered) was worth it to me at the time to do it myself.
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Old 09-14-2011, 10:18 AM   #19
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Thanks for posting this....this is exactly what I did, including the dremel , and it works nicely
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:02 PM   #20
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Thanks guys this is very helpful. Were you able to do this without removing the window? I was considering getting a replacement window from a salvage yard as bmw335ion18s recommends, but then the rear window would need to be removed and the gasket on the salvage yard window may be near failure also.
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