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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today!

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Old 06-21-2014, 07:37 AM   #61
Bemito
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Ryan,

I didn't have anything to go by except the couple of pics in this thread (or one linked to it). I can take pictures of the butt connectors, the crimping tool, and the resistors that I did *not* use (I bought a variety of sizes but eventually settled on the smallest and glad I did). My previous post was entirely from memory. I've got a make a quick trip literally right now but I'll post pics of the tools (and one of the wiring harness prior to the resistor being put into place) when I return.

You'll definitely need to jack up the front. I used my friend's 4 ramps to elevate as much as possible; that's an absolute minimum in my experience.

I have a 2002 Silber Metallic E46, BTW.
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Old 06-21-2014, 12:04 PM   #62
soundq2
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About to do this too! Just got the car (03 M3 convertable with 70K miles) and it had a rear end leak...bad... where the drive shaft goes into the rear end. I had that replaced by a BMW shop but not a dealer. $45 part... $580 labor...5.3 hours. Anyway that night the dreaded light came on! and shifted into 0 a few times. The temp was low 90's... but it was that temp when I dropped the car off... In the last 2 days it's come on, only after work and it's been low 90's again. Last night it was 80 and after I restarted the car a couple of time ALL the lights went off. Even when the lights were on it continued to shift properly, but I was babying it!

I plan on getting the Salmon relay too as my DRIVERS door will NOT unlock with the key fob...thought it was a bad actuator but I'll try the relay as someone else said something about relay problems and door lock problems but they weren't specific... Also I'll check the battery.

Thanks for all the good info in this thread and it's 2 years old... great stuff!
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Old 06-22-2014, 08:10 AM   #63
IrishTiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bemito View Post
Ryan,

I didn't have anything to go by except the couple of pics in this thread (or one linked to it). I can take pictures of the butt connectors, the crimping tool, and the resistors that I did *not* use (I bought a variety of sizes but eventually settled on the smallest and glad I did). My previous post was entirely from memory. I've got a make a quick trip literally right now but I'll post pics of the tools (and one of the wiring harness prior to the resistor being put into place) when I return.

You'll definitely need to jack up the front. I used my friend's 4 ramps to elevate as much as possible; that's an absolute minimum in my experience.

I have a 2002 Silber Metallic E46, BTW.
Yeah that would be helpful if you could! That would give me a better idea of what I'll be doing! Thanks again!
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'03 E46 M3 Laguna Seca Blue, SMG-II
'13 Acura MDX Advance Package
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Old 06-23-2014, 10:29 PM   #64
Bemito
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Images for procedure

Ryan,

I don't have a schematic but, indeed, the wiring harness is located behind the front driver's wheel. Sorry, I don't have video. I did all of this work on my back and after some time taking many pictures was the last thing on my mind.

I had to remove two plastic protective pieces (one beneath the engine and one closer to the front driver's wheel suspension) to gain access to the harness. Removing the wheel should give you access as well. The harness's end screws into a part with a 1/2-turn or so twist; it doesn't rotate too much due to the many wires in the harness.

If you have not changed the salmon-colored SMG relay, I'd do that first. It's easy. This shows where it is and this shows the base.

Back to the harness operation:

Be sure use high-quality ceramic resistors to insulate against the heat. This shows the sizes that we LARGER than the one I eventually used. The harness' diameter is much smaller than I presumed from the pictures in other posts. The one I used was the same brand as the ones in this image but smaller by probably 25% than the smallest in the image.

This is a picture of the crimper I used. This shows the wire stripper and butt connectors I used. The butt connectors' inner diameter varies, so I strongly suggest buying several pairs of variety of sizes because an overly-large connector will not provide a great crimp on the SMG wire. My resistor's wires are greater in diameter than the SMG wire. I also suggest trying the crimper on wires using the intended butt connectors to practice with it (the wires in my picture are thicker than the SMG wire). I had to squeeze extremely strongly to complete the crimp (twice, of course: one for each end) because the plastic must be crushed to connect the 2 wires.

This shows the harness with the white wire cut and stripped. The wire is very thin and somewhat brittle, so be *extremely* careful stripping it and don't handle it more than necessary.

I used high-temperature-rated electrical tape (compare degree ratings) to first seal the connected ends, then the entire portion of the harness that underwent this operation. I don't have a picture of the final state.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:33 AM   #65
IrishTiger
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That does help a lot actually! I have no problems doing work like that on my car. I owned two Acura TL's before I bought my MDX, and I have all the books and the electrical book for the TL. I used those an awful lot to accomplish smaller jobs that I was capable of.... Heck I even work on my airplane even though I'm not a mechanic.

Here, I'm new to the E46, it's totally different from my previous cars, and I don't have any books or manuals to help guide me.
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Old 06-26-2014, 12:35 AM   #66
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I was reading a link from another forum, and they said it's very possible to do the mod inside the ECU - that way it's up higher, enclosed and protected from the elements, plus it may be easier to get to.

I just don't know where the ECU is yet though.
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:30 AM   #67
soundq2
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I did the mod two days ago and the temperatures have been above 90F everyday since... NO issues what so ever! I got a 1K 10watt resistor from an electronic parts store (NOT radio shack!) and it was ONLY $0.40! I soldered the thing in, didn't "crimp" it. I had the hood up (don't know why) and the car wouldn't go into gear after I did it and I though I buggered something up but then realized the hood was up and maybe it had a switch that wont let you put the car in gear...
REAL easy to get to with the tire off... I just reached in and felt the connector...it twisted right off.
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Old 06-30-2014, 01:32 PM   #68
soundq2
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OH and the "Salmon Relay" is part #61-36-8-366-646... hydrolic pump relay and is $39.07 in St. Louis (dealer) on 6-28-14. Not just a $5 part like some have suggested. The resistor was a lot cheaper and did the trick for me.
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Old 06-30-2014, 05:46 PM   #69
awsme46
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SMG Diagnostics

Quote:
Originally Posted by 03DinanS2 View Post
There are many many issues that can arise with the SMG/SMGII. This thread is aimed at one specific, common issue that leaves many SMG owners timid to drive on hot days.

Here are the symptoms:

On hot days with little air flow through the engine bay IE traffic situations, the SMG and SES light illuminate and soon after, the gears drop out into 0 or nuetral. Very dangerous situation at times and for many is guaranteed to happen daily while others only happens a couple times a year.

I have found the cause of this to be a horrible design flaw of the SMG HYD Pump temp sensor being mounted way too close to the engine. As a result, while you are sitting in traffic (with no airflow to cool it off it gets hotter and hotter) the HYD Pump temp sensor picks up heat from the engine and sends a signal to the ECU telling it the HYD fluid is "too hot." This is not the actual case. The result is the circuit that tells your pump to charge the accumulator is momentarilly disabled. You have two or 3 shifts left in the accumulator and after that there is not enough pressure to make the next gear so it drops to nuetral. after about 15-30 seconds the circuit is momentarilly restored and the accumulator charges again...the cycle repeats over and over again untill you can get on the highway or just simply shut the car off and let it cool for at least half an hour.

To stop this problem from happening i experimented and read through schematics for 3 days and what i came up with worked for me and it also worked for another member of this forum whom i was sharing ideas with. The best part is it it costs about 5 bucks if you do it yourself.

Take a 500-1K ohm heat resistant resistor and splice it in series with the temp sensor. its that simple. it takes about 20 Minutes start to finish. i waited about a week to post this to make absolutly sure the problem was gone. you can access the connector that goes from the ECU to the HYD pump from unterneath the car just "inboard" of the front driver side tire. there are 18 wires on it i think and all sorts of colors. the wire you want is the SOLID WHITE WIRE. Just cut it, splice in the resistor and wrap it up tight and your done.

Now keep in mind that this does not keep your car from heating up the actual sensor but instead, adds a temp "bias" for your ECU to not allow it to reach the over temp voltage. This in my opinion is safe, effective and a dream come true for the price. Remember, the only possible effect of hyd fluid over heating is premature wear of the pump itself...chances are if you have this problem, you were told you need to replace the pump by the mechanics for about $3500...Sounds like we have nothing to lose right? Especially since the hyd fluid isnt really overheating in the first place and its just the engine heating up the sensor that is aprox 3/4'' away from it.

Below are some pics of the procedure as i did them on my M. Enjoy. And have a great summer this year without fear of having your Bimmer look like a turd on the side of the road or blocking traffic.

EDIT:
CNTRVSY's Thread on M3F: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=372262
Check out this link, everything you want to know of the SMG system: http://www.brianbernard.com/BMW%20DI...IY/SMG/SMG.pdf
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Old 07-01-2014, 10:01 PM   #70
IrishTiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awsme46 View Post
Check out this link, everything you want to know of the SMG system: http://www.brianbernard.com/BMW%20DI...IY/SMG/SMG.pdf

Dead link.

404 Error
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Old 08-15-2014, 03:42 AM   #71
IrishTiger
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Exclamation

Okay - here's a question for all you knowledgeable guys.... Check this out.

I'm an airline pilot, and I was in Phoenix for training for a month. I get home, and fire up the car. No problems at all. The only thing that was different was that the nav system had errors reading the disk, or it just said DVD wasn't present. After a couple of days that went away and it's acting normally now.

Now, the SMG..... For the first 4 days, I drove it and the car behaved perfectly. I always drive it in a fairly tame manner, in the Auto-Mode/Drivelogic 3 setting. It finally started giving me the COG light and SES, and then dropping out of gear several times. Once I get more airflow to the engine it seems okay. The first 4 days were mild and good weather outside. When it was acting up, the outside temp indicated 94F, and high 80s too.

Every time that I've had the transmission act up is when it's really hot, or if I change gears a lot manually when the engine is warm. My regular engine temp gauge (blue/red) stays pegged in the middle. The oil temp sensor sits just to the left of straight up, about 11-11:30. When I'm in stop in go traffic, or not moving very fast, especially on a hot day, that will go up to the mid point (I want to say it's 210F or something.... The middle part anyhow) or just slightly above, like 12:10. When that temp gets up there to the middle or above, I can expect issues from the transmission.

I scanned the car the other day, and came up with some odd codes. It seems that this DME code Internal Index 175 is always on (and BMW just did my DME recall/reprogram last month too).

I also got this AUC sensor message. Check out these screen captures and let me know what you think. I have NOT done the resistor mod yet. I will when I get home next.

DME


A/C



Can anyone make any sense of that? That internal index fault has been on since I first bought the car two months ago. I want that thing gone!!!
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'03 E46 M3 Laguna Seca Blue, SMG-II
'13 Acura MDX Advance Package
1990 Mooney Turbo M20M-TLS "Bravo"

Last edited by IrishTiger; 08-16-2014 at 06:14 PM.
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Old 08-15-2014, 03:48 AM   #72
IrishTiger
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Oh - and this is the resistor I bought to use. Hope it'll work okay.

Frys.Com Link

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Last edited by IrishTiger; 08-15-2014 at 03:49 AM.
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Old 08-15-2014, 04:21 PM   #73
iansevilla
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And that is why I went from SMG/Manual stick. I got scared of that damn COG and SES light and gear shifts to neutral while driving. I'm am now happy with my ///M and able to make long drives without hesitation.. :-)


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Old 08-16-2014, 06:15 PM   #74
IrishTiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iansevilla View Post
And that is why I went from SMG/Manual stick. I got scared of that damn COG and SES light and gear shifts to neutral while driving. I'm am now happy with my ///M and able to make long drives without hesitation.. :-)


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Well that's not an option for me right now.


So can anyone help me make sense of this?

Please?
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Old 08-16-2014, 06:52 PM   #75
iansevilla
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When my tranny was removed from car. Tech found leak on my clutch slave? So, there is a possibility that my SMG pump was not burnt?or it's kinda failing due to slave leak....

I saw this resistor fix a few months ago. Not guaranteed but it might help...good luck with your ///M


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Old 08-19-2014, 09:30 AM   #76
IrishTiger
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Bump..... Come on guys, someone has to know something!


Quote:
Originally Posted by IrishTiger View Post
Okay - here's a question for all you knowledgeable guys.... Check this out.

I'm an airline pilot, and I was in Phoenix for training for a month. I get home, and fire up the car. No problems at all. The only thing that was different was that the nav system had errors reading the disk, or it just said DVD wasn't present. After a couple of days that went away and it's acting normally now.

Now, the SMG..... For the first 4 days, I drove it and the car behaved perfectly. I always drive it in a fairly tame manner, in the Auto-Mode/Drivelogic 3 setting. It finally started giving me the COG light and SES, and then dropping out of gear several times. Once I get more airflow to the engine it seems okay. The first 4 days were mild and good weather outside. When it was acting up, the outside temp indicated 94F, and high 80s too.

Every time that I've had the transmission act up is when it's really hot, or if I change gears a lot manually when the engine is warm. My regular engine temp gauge (blue/red) stays pegged in the middle. The oil temp sensor sits just to the left of straight up, about 11-11:30. When I'm in stop in go traffic, or not moving very fast, especially on a hot day, that will go up to the mid point (I want to say it's 210F or something.... The middle part anyhow) or just slightly above, like 12:10. When that temp gets up there to the middle or above, I can expect issues from the transmission.

I scanned the car the other day, and came up with some odd codes. It seems that this DME code Internal Index 175 is always on (and BMW just did my DME recall/reprogram last month too).

I also got this AUC sensor message. Check out these screen captures and let me know what you think. I have NOT done the resistor mod yet. I will when I get home next.

DME


A/C



Can anyone make any sense of that? That internal index fault has been on since I first bought the car two months ago. I want that thing gone!!!
__________________
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'03 E46 M3 Laguna Seca Blue, SMG-II
'13 Acura MDX Advance Package
1990 Mooney Turbo M20M-TLS "Bravo"
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Old 09-22-2014, 03:54 PM   #77
xsxpxhx
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anyone experience any problems after doing this mod? *BUMP*
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Old 09-22-2014, 04:11 PM   #78
DjPiZdEtZ
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I went through this exact problem with my E46 2008 M3. Here are my 2 cents and solutions.

My problems popped up around 65k miles around 90 degree heat. The cog would pop up and eventually shift me out of gear. Sometimes the car would turn off in the middle of a highway and I would have to roll to the side to restart. When this happens there is a 80% chance your pump is dying and 20% chance it is something else. If its something else any knowledgeable bmw tech will discover the problem while changing your SMG pump. The resistor mod is not a long term solution, it just prolongs the inevitable, however when your SMG pump is not working the way it should and is slacking, it may screw up your clutch or flywheel or the rest of the transmission. I drove the car on the bad pump through the winter without a problem and had the pump replaced. Since then the SMG worked without a problem and cog never game on and last year i was driving it in 100+ degree weather without a hitch.
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