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Old 08-23-2011, 11:32 PM   #41
TxTorqueMade
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Needs a flash too.
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:17 PM   #42
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ok, just bought a can of contact cleaner and cleaned all the plugs.

This works guys! Anyone who has been having problems after they have their Vanos seals done, should try this. Heck, do it before. Feels like it helped with the hesitation.

Great idea.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:32 PM   #43
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I might give this a shot
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:32 PM   #44
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this is a complete newb question but where are all of these connectors located under the hood? Is it possible to get some better pictures of exactly which ones to clean? I'm trying to get rid of the acceleration hesitation I get between 3.5-4k rpms without having to pay someone to do the Vanos seals.
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:17 AM   #45
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Interesting. I am going to have to look into this. What electrical contact cleaner is everyone using? If this is the cure to my coldstart /hesitation problems, then it brings new meaning to "attention to details"!!
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Old 08-29-2011, 12:05 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by safly325i View Post
this is a complete newb question but where are all of these connectors located under the hood? Is it possible to get some better pictures of exactly which ones to clean? I'm trying to get rid of the acceleration hesitation I get between 3.5-4k rpms without having to pay someone to do the Vanos seals.
I mean no disrespect but if you don't know where these connectors are and are not able to even search or educate yourself; specially when it is discussed briefly above then this DIY is out of your reach.

Also, If your VANOS seals are shot they need to be replaced--This isn't a magical VANOS Seal cure.

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Originally Posted by Lemonsqr View Post
Interesting. I am going to have to look into this. What electrical contact cleaner is everyone using? If this is the cure to my coldstart /hesitation problems, then it brings new meaning to "attention to details"!!
Let us know! I Personally didn't use contact cleaner.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:28 PM   #47
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Just did the crimp adjustment to mine and it worked as advertised. Amazing. Does that indicate that my vanos wasn't even working? Or does it mean the current wasn't high enough to the solenoid at 3000 RPM? If so, how could a variable current be supplied to the solenoid?

One problem I did have was that I accidentally pushed the female portion into the connector into the backshell while crimping (even when I tried to heed the warnings) and I'd like to fix it. Does anybody know of a way to fix the connector or where replacement connectors can be found? I'd like to not have to replace the entire harness.

Thanks for the awesome tip!
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:08 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by safly325i View Post
this is a complete newb question but where are all of these connectors located under the hood? Is it possible to get some better pictures of exactly which ones to clean? I'm trying to get rid of the acceleration hesitation I get between 3.5-4k rpms without having to pay someone to do the Vanos seals.
This sounds more like a DISA issue. The DISA valve opens at 3750 RPM (fluctuates slightly based upon air temp) and remains closed below, so you get more low-end torque. When the DISA paddle fails, it swings freely in the air stream, in oppositon to the design. This leads to poor low-end torque.

I had the same problem and when I removed the DISA; it was completely shot. It had no tension and moved freely. It takes a few miuntes to remove and replace. Two torx bolts. After I replaced it, the hesistion improved and it now transitions this RPM range more smoothly. However, there is a SIB out which states that this issue may actually need to be serviced by sending out the ECU to have it reflashed. Under hard acceleration, the ECU incorrectly interprets the DISA movement as knock and retards the timing, creating this symptom. A reflash may be a necessary solution for some. Although there is much improvement with the replacement of my DISA performance-wise, I think a possible reflash may be necessary to completely cure this.

Anyway, check into this before you go ahead and take apart your VANOS. It take a few minutes to remove the DISA and inspect it for play.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:29 AM   #49
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Just did the crimp adjustment to mine and it worked as advertised. Amazing. Does that indicate that my vanos wasn't even working? Or does it mean the current wasn't high enough to the solenoid at 3000 RPM? If so, how could a variable current be supplied to the solenoid?

One problem I did have was that I accidentally pushed the female portion into the connector into the backshell while crimping (even when I tried to heed the warnings) and I'd like to fix it. Does anybody know of a way to fix the connector or where replacement connectors can be found? I'd like to not have to replace the entire harness.

Thanks for the awesome tip!
You have to be careful not to push the pins out but the fix is easy.

Let the pin go all the way out, take it out and carefully pry up the locking tab and slide it back in and it will stay.
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:57 AM   #50
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Great thread OP

Just curious, how long did the entire process take you?

I'm curious if, I am not experiencing the hesitation/bucking if I should even bother? (i.e., don't want to cause more harm than help type situation)
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:13 AM   #51
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Interesting. I am going to have to look into this. What electrical contact cleaner is everyone using? If this is the cure to my coldstart /hesitation problems, then it brings new meaning to "attention to details"!!
I use CRCs Quick-Dry contact cleaner and finish it up with some compressed air to ensure its dry.


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Old 09-15-2011, 10:18 AM   #52
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I definitely have to try this to see if it cures my low-RPM surging/bucking. So are you guys closing up the female contacts inside the harness with a small screwdriver or the likes?
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Old 09-15-2011, 10:47 AM   #53
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I definitely have to try this to see if it cures my low-RPM surging/bucking. So are you guys closing up the female contacts inside the harness with a small screwdriver or the likes?
I use these.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-4-pc-...p-00947090000P

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Old 09-15-2011, 07:25 PM   #54
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newe46fan, you're a stud. Thanks for the tip. Car is running amazing right now thanks to you. Thanks again.
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:39 AM   #55
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I tried this on all my connectors, no luck. But then again, mine didn't appear to be overly widened or anything like that.
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:27 AM   #56
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Subscribed. My 2001 is definitely suffering, will give this a shot this weekend.
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Old 09-17-2011, 11:01 AM   #57
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Can't unplug the solenoid connection, it's on there good. Don't want to force it. Any tricks of the trade to loosen it up??
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Old 09-17-2011, 11:34 AM   #58
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Can't unplug the solenoid connection, it's on there good. Don't want to force it. Any tricks of the trade to loosen it up??
There is a metal clip on the front of the sensor like the one on the MAF push it in and pull up.

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Old 09-17-2011, 11:57 AM   #59
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No, I'm familiar with the clip. I pulled another easier to reach connection and it slid off easily, the VANOS connector isn't budging.

Edit: Very frustrating, just did every electrical connection under the hood, but the only one I can't get is the Vanos exhaust. The one I need. Tried to clean the outside, wiggle etc., nothing.

Last edited by Courtdale; 09-17-2011 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 09-17-2011, 09:56 PM   #60
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Someone take a pic to enlighten us to where the vanos i/e are? No im not a nub to DIy I just bought my m3 last week and havent even had the hood up much to know exactly where they are.
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