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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 06-17-2013, 11:19 PM   #161
Stinger9
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Hair Club for men plugs?

Last edited by Stinger9; 12-14-2013 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:22 PM   #162
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I just wanted to put out an update on my stuttering issue. My e46 is now stutter free.

I have replaced the VANOS seals and tweaked/cleaned the connectors as described in this thread. Both seemed to help but after awhile the problem would return. I believe this is because unplugging or messing with the connectors will reset the engine's adaptations. Due to the bad algorithms used in the older version of the ECU the car would always relearn its bad habits and start causing a stutter again.

The fix that actually worked was to flash the ECU to the newest version. I got a fellow fanatic to do it. Car runs smoother than ever and has absolutely no hesitation/stuttering at 2.8k rpm. No doubt about it, that is what worked for me. It was an immediate difference.

That's just my two cents.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:44 PM   #163
Tbone8ty
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I have a 2003 330i

Is there a newer bmw ecu version for my car?

Also heard conforti shark can tune helps smooth things out as well
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:35 AM   #164
Young Beamer
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I REALLY enjoyed this. Going to take a look tomorrow. I had misfires from coils, and a sluggish performance. I took it to the dealership.(mistake) They replaced a coil and the vanos seal for $1600. Broke. My. Bank. Whatever, at that point i wouldn't have known where to start regarding the vanos, because BMW said it was a job that required taking the engine apart. Don't know if that was a lie or not, but they also charged me for either 7 or 8 hours of labor for it. Validate that for me please, because i don't trust my local dealership for shady business previously. ANYWAYS! I was starting to think i had another coil issue of some kind lately, because my '01 325i has been sluggish EXACTLY as your is. Feels like its not really responding to the pedal correctly until about 3k rpms, then it lurches or kinda rocks, accelerates and drives like it should. I'll take a look at the video you posted and re-read your post tomorrow out with my car. Will update you!
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:54 AM   #165
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Originally Posted by Young Beamer View Post
I took it to the dealership.(mistake) They replaced a coil and the vanos seal for $1600. Broke. My. Bank. Whatever, at that point i wouldn't have known where to start regarding the vanos, because BMW said it was a job that required taking the engine apart. Don't know if that was a lie or not, but they also charged me for either 7 or 8 hours of labor for it.
Feels like its not really responding to the pedal correctly until about 3k rpms, then it lurches or kinda rocks, accelerates and drives like it should.
Just for the novitiates, it's Break. My. Wallet. We don't drive BMB's.


You got screwed by your dealer. Never known them to replace vanos seals, so did they sell you a whole new unit?
I'd say your symptom description sounds like bad vanos seals.

Last edited by Stinger9; 06-19-2013 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:07 AM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
Just for the novitiates, it's Break. My. Wallet. We don't drive BMB's.


You got screwed by your dealer. Never known them to replace vanos seals, so did they sell you a whole new unit?
I'd say your symptom description sounds like bad vanos seals.
Haha i like that.
Yeah the dealer bent me over. JUST the seal. Plastic part was a few bucks, labor is where all the price went. Also charged me 100 somethin bucks for the coil that was out, and it wasn't the problem. The problem was the corroded, disgusting boot they put BACK into my engine knowing about it. I'm no longer SUCH a novice. I recognize theres practically a DIY for everything. A guy here in town i found out worked for this dealership, and left because of their dirty business and started his own european car mechanic shop.
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Old 06-19-2013, 09:44 AM   #167
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Quote:
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Haha i like that.
Yeah the dealer bent me over. JUST the seal. Plastic part was a few bucks, labor is where all the price went. Also charged me 100 somethin bucks for the coil that was out, and it wasn't the problem. The problem was the corroded, disgusting boot they put BACK into my engine knowing about it. I'm no longer SUCH a novice. I recognize theres practically a DIY for everything. A guy here in town i found out worked for this dealership, and left because of their dirty business and started his own european car mechanic shop.
Yea, you got taken for a ride. I've done a complete VANOS seal rebuilt in 2.5 hours start to finish--that's including putting the tools away and such.
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:08 PM   #168
///Mpower3357
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Re: Still Suffering from hesitation/bucking even after VANOS seals? Look Inside!

This sounds crazy, but it could be a leaky vcg (valve cover gasket). Mine shorted out # 6 cylinder periodically. Oil conducts under high voltage ignition coils. 2 mechanics later, and I accidentally figured it out.

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Old 06-20-2013, 11:27 PM   #169
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Originally Posted by ///Mpower3357 View Post
Oil conducts under high voltage ignition coils. 2 mechanics later, and I accidentally figured it out.
Just for the record, oil is a great insulator. Used in high voltage transformers and switches because of that.
Could be the contamination on the surface of things that shorts things out when moistened.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:35 AM   #170
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At 201k miles, I replaced the vanos seals. (beisan.) Much better.
At 202k miles, I found power surging at 2800 rpm under partial load. re-crimped: intake vanos, h20, exhaust vanos, exhaust cam sensor. No results.
At 203k miles, I took the recommendation of this thread and did ALL THE CONNECTORS. Intake cam sensor, Idle Control Valve. The other "not so easy to reach" ones.

Cured. NO SURGING. country road mpg went back to 27.6.

Thanks for all your support to the community. This would have never been cured without this thread.

EDIT:

after 3 days, the surging returned. surging continued until 210k miles.
i took the car in for a DME flash / computer update.

FINALLY CURED. i now have 215k and have not had one hesitation or surging at 2800 rpm.

Last edited by jason89i; 12-10-2013 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:59 PM   #171
BMARTINW
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Can I add!! replace spark plugs! I didint see it here but I replaced my MAF, fuel filter / fuel pressure regulator, air filter, coil packs, intake boots $600 later... and thought about replacing the fuel pump, it's was just the spark plugs the whole time, they had oil in the treads. Try that first too and get the oem ones work he's the NGK double platinum.
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:34 PM   #172
new//M3fan
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Still Suffering from hesitation/bucking even after VANOS seals? Look Inside!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jason89i View Post
2003 zhp.
At 201k miles, I replaced the vanos seals. (beisan.) Much better.
At 202k miles, I found power surging at 2800 rpm under partial load. re-crimped: intake vanos, h20, exhaust vanos, exhaust cam sensor. No results.
At 203k miles, I took the recommendation of this thread and did ALL THE CONNECTORS. Intake cam sensor, Idle Control Valve. The other "not so easy to reach" ones.

Cured. NO SURGING. country road mpg went back to 27.6.

Thanks for all your support to the community. This would have never been cured without this thread.
Thanks for your input! I can't stress it enough; you must go over ALL your connectors to rule this potential fix out


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Old 06-24-2013, 10:39 PM   #173
Tbone8ty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeeweeCSHL View Post

The fix that actually worked was to flash the ECU to the newest version. I got a fellow fanatic to do it. Car runs smoother than ever and has absolutely no hesitation/stuttering at 2.8k rpm. No doubt about it, that is what worked for me. It was an immediate difference.

That's just my two cents.
can this be done at dealer?

do you know what version you had and what version you flashed to?
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Old 06-24-2013, 10:49 PM   #174
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So we're discussing the wire connectors? One has to release the connector from the plastic "holder" and brighten things up and squeeze the pincer? Pix?
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:27 AM   #175
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:09 PM   #176
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Hi,

This is a very interesting thread. I just got my first BMW on Monday. I did research, I knew what I was getting into (sort of at least). I am aware that the Vanos needs to be addressed eventually, but the symptoms as I understood them was decreased performance and some rattling in that area.

I drove the car I bought several times and I noticed a hesitation from dead stop. Like it was a pause, but then it would just bolt and take off rather quickly. I have to really feather the peddle to keep it from happening. I asked the guy that did the PPI and he didn't think anything was wrong with how it accelerated from a stop. Now I'm reading this thread and thinking, hmmm.... it sounds like I might have the same problem. I just figured maybe it was the traction control stuff doing something weird, or it was me just not used to how BMW's accelerate.


I am a n00b, but I won't ask where all these connectors are. I've got a Bentley being shipped, so I can figure out where all these connectors are. I also see the picks people are using, and the CRC cleaner.

I'm a little unclear on the procedure itself though guys. So, put the pick into the female end of the connector - but then what are you doing to tighten the prongs?

I know addressing the Vanos is in my future, but I was hoping not so quickly (car has 83k, when should I start to plan on dealing with it?). It sounds like this is a very cheap step and perhaps will address the issue I noticed.

Some of the pictures in the OP are gone. Would love to see a pic or two of someone actually doing theirs so I could see the tools being used (other than the picks)

thanks

Last edited by Brad W; 07-19-2013 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:21 PM   #177
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Do you have any CEL?
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:45 PM   #178
Stinger9
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Hi,

This is a very interesting thread.
Sounds like you need to read the Beisan systems site to better learn what the vanos seals symptoms are. You got it wrong.
The acceleration from standing is not normal.
How about filling in your garage so we can help you answer your questions knowing more about the details of your car. I'll assume for now you have an automatic.

I did my vanos at 77K miles and they were still in good shape. The rattle kit is different than the seals. Read Beisan.
Some say seals are shot at 25K on every car. Mine not.

You have already read the thread on cleaning connectors?

PPI guy didn't know what he was talking about. Thanks for taking my money!
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:47 PM   #179
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I'll go read more at the Beisan site. Yes, its an auto. I've read through this thread, its been about cleaning and crimping. Still curious about the process for the crimping.

Yeah, I guess the PPI guy screwed me. Makes me wonder what else he missed. Great
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:19 AM   #180
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I've read through this thread, its been about cleaning and crimping. Still curious about the process for the crimping.
I wasn't paying attention to what thread we are on!
Ignore that comment.
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