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Old 03-05-2012, 02:29 AM   #1
1hot325
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325i over heating

Can anyone tell me why! Dealer changed resovoir was cracked, fan clutch replaced and thermostat changed. No leaks . ????
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:03 AM   #2
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probably got air trapped in the sytem because it wasnt burped correctly. are you losing coolant, did your car overheat before this work?

some additional info might help

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Old 03-05-2012, 04:21 AM   #3
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Was losing coolant due to cracked resovoir . They did open bleeder valve and still heating
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:09 AM   #4
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?

Perhaps some more detail would help. A car is a complicated thing...one sentence won't really get you too far.

Bleeding might be the answer, but we don't know what happened when you overheated the first time. The question above, about your overheating incident, is to help us estimate whether you did head gasket/head damage...which is srs business...so you might want to write a longer post giving us the history of the car before, during, and after you got it...as far as you know.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:17 AM   #5
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First it was showing on the dash that it needed water so I put some coolant car was not running hot at all when I put in the coolant and started the car I noticed the leak. So replaced the coolant resovoir then choked thermostat it was locking up so replaced that, notice the fan was a little slow so replaced the clutch filled and then started it up ran for a few and it heated right up.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:33 AM   #6
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Who's the they that did the work. How long did you drive while overheating...before or after your work?

How many miles, what year car?

Have you, yourself, read up on how to bleed and tried that yet?

To speed things up:

When car is cold, open ET and add coolant so the balls on the dipstick straddle the top of the filler neck...fill to between min and max (see the diagram on that plastic square next to the cap...fill midway)

Close cap.

key to pos 2...after the first click, before starting the car.

Heater to highest temp
Fan on low
Dial between vents set to three red dots.

ET cap on and bleeder closed.

Start car, rev to 4000 rpms for 20 secs...no more...then turn car off.

Open ET. If level has dropped, again fill to midway.

Repeat...no more than 20 secs.

Keep doing this until level stabilizes.

Then start the car, again with heater on...monitor temp gauge. If it starts to rise above dead center again, stop the car and report back. Do not drive!!!!
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:36 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmax View Post
Who's the they that did the work. How long did you drive while overheating...before or after your work?

How many miles, what year car?

Have you, yourself, read up on how to bleed and tried that yet?

To speed things up:

When car is cold, open ET and add coolant so the balls on the dipstick straddle the top of the filler neck...fill to between min and max (see the diagram on that plastic square next to the cap...fill midway)

Close cap.

key to pos 2...after the first click, before starting the car.

Heater to highest temp
Fan on low
Dial between vents set to three red dots.

ET cap on and bleeder closed.

Start car, rev to 4000 rpms for 20 secs...no more...then turn car off.

Open ET. If level has dropped, again fill to midway.

Repeat...no more than 20 secs.

Keep doing this until level stabilizes.

Then start the car, again with heater on...monitor temp gauge. If it starts to rise above dead center again, stop the car and report back. Do not drive!!!!
I thought you said you retired from cooling system threads?!
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:46 AM   #8
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I appreciate your help thnx will try
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
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I thought you said you retired from cooling system threads?!
What can I do? I sensed a pretty desperate OP and just can't stand idly by...but you're right.

OP, you really need to study up hard on cooling threads. Used advanced/title search for 'overheating'--you'll find thousands of posts to learn from.
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:48 AM   #10
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What can I do? I sensed a pretty desperate OP and just can't stand idly by...but you're right.

OP, you really need to study up hard on cooling threads. Used advanced/title search for 'overheating'--you'll find thousands of posts to learn from.
i started but dmax took it over like a bauss so i stepped back!

this is not directed at the OP, some people learn by reading, some just want it easy and told to them using as few braincells as possible. if they still cant understand, then its best to just point them to the nearest mechanic. not everyone has the skills to troubleshoot and fix cars. so dont feel bad not helping everyone, your a great contributor to this site from all the posts i seen of yours. just sayin.
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:12 AM   #11
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Listen, I'm a car guy that does not have a lot of money but, I just got my dream car. I signed up here so I could educate myself a little better about my car. I want to make it my own but not lose the Class of The brand that is BMW. That I'm sure we all admire since
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:12 AM   #12
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Kids.
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:16 AM   #13
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If you have advice. Experience in the scenarios on this forum and you want to help. Than help! But if not. Do not laugh at those who do not know. That's what these forums are for... So we can learn.

Last edited by 1hot325; 03-09-2012 at 02:17 AM.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:14 AM   #14
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If you have advice. Experience in the scenarios on this forum and you want to help. Than help! But if not. Do not laugh at those who do not know. That's what these forums are for... So we can learn.
As an OP with an issue, you're absolutely right--I agree.

But, the forums are also here so we have the opportunity to humiliate and torment you--it might seem that I'm here trying to help, but really, I'm just here to entertain myself and seek out opportunities to make fun of you. Does that make me a bad person? Sure it does!

Anyway, the 'these forums' you refer to isn't 'this' forum...it's another one!

Here, if you're not crying about having posted another thread on cooling, we just haven't done our job!
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:00 AM   #15
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System was clogged problem solved. Thanks
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Old 03-13-2012, 09:35 AM   #16
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How did you unclog it? ...and
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:44 AM   #17
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I am also interested as to what the clog issue was.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:02 AM   #18
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DMAX, that really is not necessary to start car, rev, etc. The level of coolant is self-seeking and can be completely done without starting the combustion process (i.e., starting the car)

'Unclogged' is a generic term. Maybe OP meant he got air out of the system or replaced his radiator (or maybe put some kind of magic auto parts store fluid into his radiator thinking he unclogged a leak)
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:17 AM   #19
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You're right, Mango. But, I'll say this in my defense...

This is from another bmw's TIS, so 'sort of' official.

It's quick and much easier to explain here--you know, the standard procedure involves so many little discrete steps, which obviously many are missing.

It seems to more reliably remove bubbles than regular bleeding, especially when they've failed the first time at bleeding and there's an intractable bubble hiding somewhere in the system.

Many have told me it's worked for them. I've only done it once on a 528i and it worked great.

Anyway, I've only ever written two methods for bleeding...when the standard one hasn't worked, or when the system is only partially opened and not fully drained, my thinking is that this alternate method is the next safest approach.

I've seen too many threads where the guys are raising the car, running the car, opening the bleeder while its running, etc...and I think that this 'maverick' approach often just sucks more air in, especially when they're taking bleeding methods from Chevy's or their granddads and applying them to our fine, finely tuned machine.
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Old 03-13-2012, 11:46 AM   #20
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Fair enough. Where'd you see that? I've never seen anything official recommending starting the car? I suppose in theory it could help with the most stubborn of cases, but I've always bled stone cold and have always been successful. You're right, the maverick approaches do tend to suck in more air, add a certain amount of risk/danger to the process, and also compromise the integrity of the hot plastics you're effing with. Always best and proper to do it cold.
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