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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need! |
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Winter Park, Florida
Posts: 8
My Ride: 2000 323ci cabrio
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Seize or no seize?
I'm about to change my spark plugs on my 323. I'm fairly handy as i've successfully done a couple diy jobs under the hood (valve cover gasket, ignition coils) so i'm not too worried about my mechanical abilities. My only question is whether I should use anti seize compound or not. I've done some reading here on the forums and elsewhere through google and some people say it's absolutely necessary while others say it isn't. What's the deal. Should I or shouldn't I?
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#2 |
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OEM ///Member
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http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/00/30/65
Does not mention anti-seize, personally I never used either so I'd say don't use. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/product...m.asp?mode=nml "Trivalent Metal Plating provides superior anti-corrosion and anti-seizing properties"
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Bentley says to lightly lubricate the threads with a copper-based anti seize compound.
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#4 | |
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Stay stock my friends!
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Quote:
I'm 99.99% that for some plugs yes, and others no. On ours? No.
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#5 |
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Registered User
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I learned to change my BMW plugs from a guy that has 4 BMWs and he does all of the work on them. He uses a tiny bit of anti-seize on plugs, lugs, and the rotor set screw.
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#6 |
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Registered User
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I've not done the plugs yet in my car, but have always used anti-seize on other cars. I figure a little bit can't hurt. Why risk a rusted-in spark plug?
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#7 |
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Slow in, slower out
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Always use a sparse amount of anti seize and a torque wrench on spark plug threads.
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Mod the driver first. Participate in your local BMWCCA driving school. Have you joined BMWCCA yet?
My Track Schedule The solution to the lack of headroom in the X6 ![]() |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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#9 |
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Stay stock my friends!
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This is not the first time this discussion has been held here.
I'm very certain you should technically not use it. I also know that some plugs call for it and others don't. I also know that the torque spec changes considerably between a plug with and a plug without antiseize. You use much less torque if you put on anti-seize. Never on lugs, ever. And never just because this is how I learned...nothing personal. Find out for real. You've already got both possible answers here--don't just flip a coin on it. It's a fundamental thing--fact checking and getting things right.
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#10 |
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Registered User
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I was always told that with aluminum heads, you need the stuff. Iron heads don't. Pretty sure ours are aluminum.
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For Sale: Auto Trans E-fan - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...3#post12840603 23.5mm Front Sway Bar - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...0#post13054250 18mm Rear Sway Bar - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...8#post13054258 |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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seize or not ?
jd--my vote lands in the little dab'l do ya camp--been wrenching air-cooled vw's for years--they run hot--you have not lived until you have struggled with a hard to reach tight plug--suffice to say a tiny amount of anti-seize compound can't hurt and will most assuredly help----
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#12 |
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Registered User
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I understood that the NGK Laser Platinum BKR6EQUP plugs came with a Trivalent Metal Plating, providing superior anti-corrosion and anti-seizing properties, making anti-seize unnecessary.
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John in VA
'03 530i '00 328i '86 535i '85 535i '85 325e - RIP '74 2002tii |
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| anti, compound, plug, seize, spark |
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