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Old 08-09-2011, 12:18 AM   #1
bighitbiker3
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Valve Cover Broken Screws...Help!!

Alright guys so I kinda effed up, but I don't think it's too big of one. I was replacing my VCG tonight and I was screwing in one of the top 4 that holds the cover on. I was screwing on the top bolt closest to the front of the car to 10lbs on my torque wrench. Maybe my torque wrench wasn't sensitive enough, but it broke off the screw below it that screws into the block (I think?). I know it's confusing but if you've seen it I think you know what i'm talking about.

I have these pictures to explain it. But my question is what are the two screws called? What's the part number or whatever i'd ask for when I call BMW or a shop?

Pics:
Where my finger is pointing is the hole where the original screw that you screw the valve cover onto. I broke the one that goes inside of that hole.



Here is the valve cover top bolt that has a piece of the screw that goes in the above hole in its threads. I need a new one of these (rubber and washer are fine, just need the screw.)



Sorry for the horrible phone pictures. Please tell me what both of the screws part numbers are ASAP!

Thanks so much,
Elliott
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Last edited by bighitbiker3; 08-09-2011 at 12:43 AM.
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:40 AM   #2
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Car is a 2003 330ci if that makes any difference
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:02 AM   #3
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They are actually valve cover NUTS that hold the valve cover on, and you broke the stud that is threaded into the head.

I think the stud is part 26 here: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...13&hg=11&fg=15

first you are going to need a screw extractor set. You could probably skip the left handed drill bits and use a normal drill bits. I bought this cheapo set as essentially an emergency throw away kit: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10-Piece...2873131&sr=8-1

Just drill through the stud making very sure the drill is centered, then after you drill the hole, lightly tap in the extractor with a hammer, and unscrew the stud.

If you are lucky, the female threads will be fine and you just thread in the replacement piece. If not, you will need to learn how to do a heli-coil or other thread repair system to fix/replace the threads first.
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Old 08-09-2011, 02:07 AM   #4
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And don't use a torque wrench of the wrong range on those nuts. You don't want to be using the absolute lowest setting on your torque wrench unless you are positive it doesn't over torque. Usually for torque that low, they need their own special torque wrench. Even so, you need to remember the only point of that nut is to lightly compress the rubber valve cover gasket. It's one of the few cases where under-torquing the nut is better.
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Old 08-09-2011, 08:57 AM   #5
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no need to drill or tap the broken stud. if you remove the Valve cober you will see that your broken stud has a welded/integrated/built in, etc 8mm nut. remove the nut to remove the stud and replace.



this will take you 5 seconds to fix. the good news is that you dont even have to remove the valve cover. use a small 8mm socket to remove that broken stud. make sure you use loctite on your new stud afterward.

you can thank me later dude

see here

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...5&postcount=11

Last edited by flashmeow; 08-09-2011 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:30 AM   #6
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The proper way to tighten the VCG is to hand tighten them until they stop then back out 1/4 or half a turn.
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:39 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by newe46fan View Post
The proper way to tighten the VCG is to hand tighten them until they stop then back out 1/4 or half a turn.
The proper way is to use a torque wrench . I couldn't find a precise enough ft lbs one that wasn't 200$+ so I went and got a in lbs wrench . Very very precise . I recommend it!

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Old 08-09-2011, 09:46 AM   #8
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The proper way is to use a torque wrench . I couldn't find a precise enough ft lbs one that wasn't 200$+ so I went and got a in lbs wrench . Very very precise . I recommend it!

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I digress. not that I don't have one. But i've been wrenching for quite a while that I don't need one for something as a VCG. I know by feel how much 8 ft-lbs is or 20 ft-lbs. It's not much. I can also feel if the bolt is stretching and about to give with a 3/8's wrench were as with a torque wrench I cannot. Hence Why i've never broken a bolt by over tightening..

VCG studs and bolts are not meant to torque and stretch as you can see how easily they break. Their just mean to hold down the VCG.
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:46 AM   #9
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I digress. not that I don't have one. But i've been wrenching for quite a while that I don't need one for something as a VCG. I know by feel how much 8 ft-lbs is or 20 ft-lbs. It's not much. I can also feel if the bolt is stretching and about to give with a 3/8's wrench were as with a torque wrench I cannot. Hence Why i've never broken a bolt by over tightening..

VCG studs and bolts are not meant to torque and stretch as you can see how easily they break. Their just mean to hold down the VCG.
I understand that for yourself but I don't think the op guy has the same experience as you . I definitely don't have enough to guess torque . More power to you .

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Old 08-09-2011, 04:47 PM   #10
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Thanks guys. I got the new parts from the shop. Going to finish it up today! I'll just lightly tighten them...i'm afraid my muscles will break another one

/sarcasm
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Old 08-09-2011, 04:53 PM   #11
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One more thing? I've read some people dont use locktight on the stud and some do. What do you guys think? Use locktight or not? If so red or blue?
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:11 PM   #12
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Just use the lock tight to be on the safe side, you can never go wrong with it. Use the blue.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:31 PM   #13
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Wow my spelling is bad. Loctite*. Thanks so much for your help guys!
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Old 08-09-2011, 09:47 PM   #14
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So did it work? Using loctite is recommended but not required. That stud is not going to come loose due to vibration anytime soon. Like the above member said, use blue loctite.

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Old 08-09-2011, 10:02 PM   #15
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Runs beautifully. Thanks guys
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by newe46fan View Post
The proper way to tighten the VCG is to hand tighten them until they stop then back out 1/4 or half a turn.
I wouldnt take this advice... I do valve cover gaskets all the time, and its never tight and then loosen. I use a 1/4 ratchet with a 10mm deep socket and when it stops it stops, and just a little more. Tigten it with common sense and your be good. If you tighen it and loosen it, what do you think will happen? let common sense answer that one.
clint

and in the picture its #10... #26 looks like an exhaust manifold bolt.
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:32 PM   #17
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The proper way to tighten the VCG is to hand tighten them until they stop then back out 1/4 or half a turn.
That's bad advice. What does backing out a half a turn even do?
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Old 08-10-2011, 12:05 AM   #18
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I just replaced my valvecover gasket last night and i noticed that the bolts stop abruptly and I didnt try to tighten them down after that, and there were no leaks. No need for a torque bar here, u just need experience with these things.
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Old 08-10-2011, 06:53 PM   #19
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Quote:
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That's bad advice. What does backing out a half a turn even do?
Quote:
Originally Posted by modular93fox View Post
I wouldnt take this advice... I do valve cover gaskets all the time, and its never tight and then loosen. I use a 1/4 ratchet with a 10mm deep socket and when it stops it stops, and just a little more. Tigten it with common sense and your be good. If you tighen it and loosen it, what do you think will happen? let common sense answer that one.
clint

and in the picture its #10... #26 looks like an exhaust manifold bolt.
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Old 08-15-2011, 04:43 PM   #20
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Okay so for some reason a new gasket didn't stop the leak..I put RTV sealant on the half moons, but maybe it wasn't enough? What i'm wondering is if I can do it again with the same gasket? I've driven with it for probably about a week and I still have a leak. How much RTV sealant should I use?

Thanks,
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