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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today!

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Old 12-09-2011, 11:46 AM   #61
Tarmac_E46_M3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lennon31987 View Post
The dash does not weight 60lbs, maybe 10lbs
That's an old post, from when I was researching. I don't remember what forum I found that one, but it is wrong.

I Pulled mine out not too long ago and it weighs right around 16 lbs.
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:23 PM   #62
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I'm confused. You shaved about 230lbs off the weight of the car, right? With your time + $$$ for parts and loss of resale value (ok, you have no intention of selling now, but...) you're probably in at around $100/lb?? I have an E46 M3 so I like the car, but for that kind of money, you could have bought any number of cars STOCK that'll smoke your light-weight M3 any day of the week or you could have put FAI in your car for half the money, left everything in as is and been faster then you are now and increased the value of the car.

Lets for the sake of argument say you still went this route vs. the others, so you shaved off 230lbs... how much time did you shave off your 1/4mile?

Anyways, not bashing you or anything, just thinking these light weight mods aren't really bang for the buck worth it because you ruin the car permanently and don't save much weight or 1/4mile time.

Last edited by SledgeHammer!; 12-09-2011 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:45 PM   #63
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1) I can appreciate what you're saying and respect where you're coming from. But this is my car and this is what I want to do to it; I'm not selling the car, ever.

2) I've shaved 330 lbs off the car, soon to be 345 lbs off with the driveshaft I'm waiting on and then around 370-380 lbs off the car when I mount my new wheels.

3) I don't really care about 1/4 mile time; this car isn't really made for that.
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:48 PM   #64
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Aren't you racing the car? Maybe not in drag, but obviously you are trying to reduce weight to improve performance? Surely its not to go get groceries .
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Old 12-09-2011, 02:57 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by SledgeHammer! View Post
Aren't you racing the car? Maybe not in drag, but obviously you are trying to reduce weight to improve performance? Surely its not to go get groceries .
He actually buys ALOT of groceries, loaded it would come in at stock weight,
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Old 01-24-2012, 11:53 PM   #66
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6.6 lbs lighter tonight.

Went from Bi-Xenons with the headlight spray nozzle to basic halogens. Also removed my foglights; total wight off was 6.6 lbs.

Bi-xenons weighed 6 lbs 2oz each, fogs were 12.6 oz and 13 oz, halogens were 3 lbs 10.8 oz each.

I hope the math is right.. I did it in my head on the drive home... too lazy to do it again, lol.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:07 AM   #67
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if you have the time and energy...

replace your front fenders and doors with CF ones. I have never weighed them, but im gonna take a stab in the dark at a guess of 100+lbs savings, plus its CF...

Ive helped with CF door with a friend and thought about doing it to my m3 as well.

You take the door, strip everything out of it. You create two molds, outer and inner, making sure to fill all the holes, but do so with a tiny lip (helps with cuting holes later).

Use about 10-15 layers for the outside of the door, and about 7-10 for the inside of the door. Obviously CF autoclaved is best, but you could make a RTV version and be just a smigde heavier for tons cheaper.

After the molds are made, lay up the fiber, cut out the holes as you do. Thats the tedious part, getting all the screw holes etc.

Then fit back in the window and other parts and walla CF door.

Do the same process for the fenders. (or buy the fenders)
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:14 AM   #68
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I dont have enough know how to do that.

I want to do cf doors... but i want to keep the integrity of the sides to kinda keep me safe in the case i get hit.

i thought about cf fenders before, just not sure how much weight it saves.
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:06 AM   #69
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have you ever worked with fiberglass? If not...really easy. CF is almost like fiberglass, in terms of time, working with fabric and epoxy.

Any how, 15-20layers of CF i would think would be the same integrity as the steel door.

If you want a fun project to get some 'know how', go to the junk yard purchase the crappiest (workable though) door you can find, from a small car preferably. Take it home, take everything off. And practice on that. Use fiberglass for the two molds. And see what you get.

To me the hardest part is the molds, because its the mold that defines your part. Everything else is just like glueing fabric.

Anyhow, the idea seems daunting but in reality, when doing my friends door, it was much easier than i thought. And once i got rid of the, 'dont f it up' fear, it was really fun.

Last edited by elitewolverine; 01-25-2012 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:43 AM   #70
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The OEM fenders are aluminium so there isn't much to be saved. Flossmann carbon fenders saved me 4kg, or about 9 pounds. Taiwan carbon fenders are the same weight as standard. There are better places to look for weight savings.
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:38 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by elitewolverine View Post
have you ever worked with fiberglass? If not...really easy. CF is almost like fiberglass, in terms of time, working with fabric and epoxy.

Any how, 15-20layers of CF i would think would be the same integrity as the steel door.

If you want a fun project to get some 'know how', go to the junk yard purchase the crappiest (workable though) door you can find, from a small car preferably. Take it home, take everything off. And practice on that. Use fiberglass for the two molds. And see what you get.

To me the hardest part is the molds, because its the mold that defines your part. Everything else is just like glueing fabric.

Anyhow, the idea seems daunting but in reality, when doing my friends door, it was much easier than i thought. And once i got rid of the, 'dont f it up' fear, it was really fun.
Wow sounds good got photos of the process. By the way for doors Kevlar needs to be used in conjunction with CF.
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:24 AM   #72
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The OEM fenders are aluminium so there isn't much to be saved. Flossmann carbon fenders saved me 4kg, or about 9 pounds. Taiwan carbon fenders are the same weight as standard. There are better places to look for weight savings.
Good to know they are aluminum. I haven't done fenders only because wasn't sure how much I'd save.

How much were the Flossmann fenders? 9 lbs is pretty significant for something I didn't think would shave much weight off.

Between the fenders and headlight swap... I could cut 15 lbs off total. Not too bad if you ask me.
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:28 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by elitewolverine View Post
have you ever worked with fiberglass? If not...really easy. CF is almost like fiberglass, in terms of time, working with fabric and epoxy.

Any how, 15-20layers of CF i would think would be the same integrity as the steel door.

If you want a fun project to get some 'know how', go to the junk yard purchase the crappiest (workable though) door you can find, from a small car preferably. Take it home, take everything off. And practice on that. Use fiberglass for the two molds. And see what you get.

To me the hardest part is the molds, because its the mold that defines your part. Everything else is just like glueing fabric.

Anyhow, the idea seems daunting but in reality, when doing my friends door, it was much easier than i thought. And once i got rid of the, 'dont f it up' fear, it was really fun.
Now that i think of it, I have a buddy who used to make CF parts for Audi's... A long while ago, but I'll have to ask him and see what he can help me with.

CF doors as strong as steel would be cool. I'm not sure how much each door weighs, but I'm sure it's at least a 10-15 lb saving per side. That damn motor is what's heavy too... but I'd like to keep the capabilities to move my windows up and down.
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:57 AM   #74
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OP can you post pics of your foglight delete?
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:00 AM   #75
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It's nothing fancy, haven't gotten that far yet. Literally no fog lights there.

Planning on painting or something to darken the driver side post thing. Then make a flat plate that can screw into the stock fog light area and have that painted or vinyled matte black.

That way, on the passenger side air just goes to the brakes. Driver side I'd like to mess around with it so the cf airbox( when installed) gets its own air and the driver side brakes gets its own air.

Not sure if that all made sense, Haha. Did as I was typing it.

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Old 01-25-2012, 11:38 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by M3_Aaron View Post
The OEM fenders are aluminium so there isn't much to be saved. Flossmann carbon fenders saved me 4kg, or about 9 pounds. Taiwan carbon fenders are the same weight as standard. There are better places to look for weight savings.
if he just changed out his headlights for weight savings....

Quote:
Originally Posted by screamer-beemer531 View Post
Wow sounds good got photos of the process. By the way for doors Kevlar needs to be used in conjunction with CF.
I dont know if kevlar is a need, but it could be used to strengthen the door and allow less layers of cf, but it will increase the weight over just cf. Most aftermarket hoods use either just cf or a fiberglass core with cf wrapping it. Ive seen small pieces of Kevlar inserted between layers at stress points. Guess its all preference...

I dont have pictures i just remember the general process we used.

I want to make a DIY on how to do it, but money is a no go right now without a job and going to school.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:47 AM   #77
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if he just changed out his headlights for weight savings....



I dont know if kevlar is a need, but it could be used to strengthen the door and allow less layers of cf, but it will increase the weight over just cf. Most aftermarket hoods use either just cf or a fiberglass core with cf wrapping it. Ive seen small pieces of Kevlar inserted between layers at stress points. Guess its all preference...

I dont have pictures i just remember the general process we used.

I want to make a DIY on how to do it, but money is a no go right now without a job and going to school.
Interesting, I'd definitely need to do some research. It would be very neat to have cf doors that have the strength integrity of the stock steel doors.

I need to look into those cf fenders... Every lb counts, within a reasonable price, lol.

Side note... If youre looking to make a little extra money to help out, check out my link below.

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Old 01-25-2012, 11:49 AM   #78
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Now that i think of it, I have a buddy who used to make CF parts for Audi's... A long while ago, but I'll have to ask him and see what he can help me with.

CF doors as strong as steel would be cool. I'm not sure how much each door weighs, but I'm sure it's at least a 10-15 lb saving per side. That damn motor is what's heavy too... but I'd like to keep the capabilities to move my windows up and down.
I think so, if a stock hood weighs 32lbs and a CF one weighs 15-17lbs.

Im sure not only does a door weigh just as much if not more, but that 15lbs+ per side is easily attainable.

And if you want it to be even lighter ive seen a mix of fiberglass used.

Fiberglass is stronger than steel, while CF is 3x or so.

You could do a CF outside (less work needed) and a Fiberglass/kevlar inside mix, to cut down cost etc. Plus fiberglass you can get literally ANYWHERE, and repairing it, is SUPER EASY, if something was to crack or break.

My old friends loved to play around with composites, to bad they all moved out of town. Their dad had a shop he operated out of his 'second' garage for spare cash. Fun times making random parts, especially when it didnt cost me a penny.
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Old 01-25-2012, 11:54 AM   #79
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I found that I was able to easily drop 205 lbs from the curb weight. I use a remote control to drive now and watch at home from my computer..
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:25 PM   #80
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Good one, dude...

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Quote:
Originally Posted by elitewolverine View Post
I think so, if a stock hood weighs 32lbs and a CF one weighs 15-17lbs.

Im sure not only does a door weigh just as much if not more, but that 15lbs+ per side is easily attainable.

And if you want it to be even lighter ive seen a mix of fiberglass used.

Fiberglass is stronger than steel, while CF is 3x or so.

You could do a CF outside (less work needed) and a Fiberglass/kevlar inside mix, to cut down cost etc. Plus fiberglass you can get literally ANYWHERE, and repairing it, is SUPER EASY, if something was to crack or break.

My old friends loved to play around with composites, to bad they all moved out of town. Their dad had a shop he operated out of his 'second' garage for spare cash. Fun times making random parts, especially when it didnt cost me a penny.
True, my CF hood was around 15 lbs and my stock hood was right around 32 lbs.

Sounds like something I definitely need to research. I also found these guys, not sure how well their products are or if they are as light as you can get: http://www.absdynamics.com/e46-m3/m3...-E46M3_708.php

Any input?
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