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General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

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Old 08-26-2011, 02:06 PM   #21
MercForHire
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don't drive with car low fuel all the time. fuel pump works harder and temperature is higher.
keep your fuel 40% full at all times and fuel pump will last
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Old 08-26-2011, 02:15 PM   #22
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Geo, what did you have to pay for the fuel pump transplant? I had mine go out while on a road trip, and it was not cheap to have a German car specialist shop replace it.
One left testicle and $637. I'm starting to think I should have skipped college and become a mechanic. Yikes!

[edit] That $637 includes some diagnostics as well. I'll break it down once I get the final itemized bill.

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Glad to hear you discovered the problem and that you're back on the road. For the record 196,000 miles isn't a whole lot of miles. I am surprised that your suspension lasted that long. I replaced mine at 110,000 miles to include sports shocks, sports struts, sports dampers and sports springs. I'm currently just over 326,600 miles in 12 years of ownership.
I am amazed at how long the dampers have lasted. The next big thing is the clutch. Still original, but I'm really easy on a clutch. I'm hoping to get at least another 6 months out of it. I expect I'll hit 300k miles with this car, assuming nothing truly major goes out. The exterior shows the wear of being a 200k DD. My last two jobs have been hell for dings. I may get a PDR guy to fix them. I'm going to have the roadie done. Just not sure about the E46. In some ways it's nice to not have a stroke over each little issue. It's a DD, not a garage queen.

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Glad you got it running!!
Well, not yet, but they are working on it. Driving the roadie for the moment. Fun car, but not so much in this heat. Was fun driving to work this morning. Will be hell on the way home.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MercForHire View Post
don't drive with car low fuel all the time. fuel pump works harder and temperature is higher.
keep your fuel 40% full at all times and fuel pump will last
How do you figure? As long as the pick-up isn't starved, the pump doesn't know the difference.
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Last edited by Geo31; 08-26-2011 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 08-26-2011, 09:39 PM   #23
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One left testicle and $637. I'm starting to think I should have skipped college and become a mechanic. Yikes!

[edit] That $637 includes some diagnostics as well. I'll break it down once I get the final itemized bill.



I am amazed at how long the dampers have lasted. The next big thing is the clutch. Still original, but I'm really easy on a clutch. I'm hoping to get at least another 6 months out of it. I expect I'll hit 300k miles with this car, assuming nothing truly major goes out. The exterior shows the wear of being a 200k DD. My last two jobs have been hell for dings. I may get a PDR guy to fix them. I'm going to have the roadie done. Just not sure about the E46. In some ways it's nice to not have a stroke over each little issue. It's a DD, not a garage queen.



Well, not yet, but they are working on it. Driving the roadie for the moment. Fun car, but not so much in this heat. Was fun driving to work this morning. Will be hell on the way home.



How do you figure? As long as the pick-up isn't starved, the pump doesn't know the difference.
$637 is pretty high. I think the pump can be had for $120, and I know guys installed them pretty quickly...like 20-30 mins...which means maybe 45 mins. from beginning to end. The diagnostic with the right software is probably pretty quick.

This sounds like an Indy you trust and that probably does good work. But, if you use them a lot, I think you need to hint that you know how long things should take and maybe that will be reflected in subsequent bills.

You said you were doing the pumpkin bushing too, which I guess is the Universal Joint. If you 'are' doing that, and they are dropping the exhaust, heat shield and driveshaft anyway, you might ask how much more a new csb would be. It's the closest you'll get to 'being there,' and I think picking low hanging fruit is always a good idea if you can.

On my E36, they could change the guibo without doing anything but guibo...don't think that's too easy on ours.

Finally, although many here are obviously idiots, I bet if you posted before 'flatbed' you would have heard fuel pump suggested as a possible and had all the diagnostics for that in your ear. I love and trust 'my' shop, but feel just the same for the collected wisdom of the thousands here!
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Old 08-26-2011, 10:44 PM   #24
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Thanks. I was still well and truly stuck. In Houston, inside a certain area on the freeways we have a program called "Safe Clear" and I was going to be towed anyway. Perhaps if I was certain it was the FP I may have had it towed to my house. Oh well. I agree with you though.

The bushing I'm referring to is not the guibo, but the bushing that hangs it from the subframe. My shop says when it goes it tends to be the first step towards subframe tearout. It's not much if a DIY because it requires a special tool and a big press.

I'll post some of the details after I pick it up on Tuesday. I know I'm paying out the wazoo and that's why I do almost all my own work. I can't complain TOO much here.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-27-2011, 05:57 AM   #25
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Thanks. I was still well and truly stuck. In Houston, inside a certain area on the freeways we have a program called "Safe Clear" and I was going to be towed anyway. Perhaps if I was certain it was the FP I may have had it towed to my house. Oh well. I agree with you though.

The bushing I'm referring to is not the guibo, but the bushing that hangs it from the subframe. My shop says when it goes it tends to be the first step towards subframe tearout. It's not much if a DIY because it requires a special tool and a big press.

I'll post some of the details after I pick it up on Tuesday. I know I'm paying out the wazoo and that's why I do almost all my own work. I can't complain TOO much here.

Thanks again.
If you mean the four monster bushings holding the rear axle carrier, George, then I'll tell you that I had the subframe repair at my local dealer. They had rear axle out, and found a broken spring. I told them to replace it. They inspected the bushings and said they were fine. That was probably at over 200K miles. The bushings, from my view, seem to be preventing shock side to side and front to rear...much less up and down.

I'm not saying they're lying, but I'm saying that I know the dealer would have told me if they needed to be replaced. It is, after all, a dealer. These monster hunks of rubber we have, like the front sway bar bushings I replaced, seem to last forever. I swapped the sway bushings, and there was no perceptible difference between the old and the new. Maybe the old were a little stiffer, but if they were, I couldn't tell...and I looked!

Also, you know, you do need to drop the rear axle carrier to examine the subframe correctly as the cracks seem to start underneath the bushings...so maybe your shop is thinking that as long as we're dropping it a little, might as well do it a lot...and make some money on it. Sounds like a 'lot' of money. It's no small thing to remove the entire rear. That said, if doing it anyway, there are a ton of little bushings around that could also be replaced.

Finally, I have to say also, that if it was me, when they started to drop the rear axle, before removing it, I'd want to be there and inspect the subframe myself. Usually the crack starts on top of the left rear Rear Axle Carrier bushing. While there, you can look at the bushing and decide for yourself if you think it needs to be replaced. If you have a crack that needs to have a reinforcement kit welded on, you might as well do it...and the 2-part foam epoxy reinforcement too assuming you can get that from the dealer. I haven't heard of an Indy doing the foam fix, but I'm sure they could. The TIS is around here for that.

Sorry, just trying to look out for your pocketbook. I know it's too late probably!
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:18 AM   #26
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When I had the subframe repair Done two years ago they replaced the subframe bushings. I think all of the bushings are important to prevent tear-out. Once the bushings get soft, things start moving around, creating stress on the mounting points. The pumpkin bushing is large and IIRC is at the back of the pumpkin. When it sags it tilts causing strain on the subframe mounts and the driveshaft/guibo. I'm on my iPad right now, but when I'm back on m computer I'll post a link to the part.
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:25 AM   #27
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I misunderstood again! Yea, I'd be interested in seeing which bushing you're talking about.
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:30 AM   #28
Geo31
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I believe #9 is the part in question. In any event, two years ago when they showed me the tearout, they also showed me the sagging bushing. I was kind of pissed it didn't get fixed at the time of the subframe repair. The collision shop that performed the subframe repair was supposed to send the pumpkin to the Indy shop while it was out and they didn't. Grrrrrrrr
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:33 AM   #29
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I'm not 100% certain it's #9 but think so.
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:47 AM   #30
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I'm not 100% certain it's #9 but think so.
I thought that was what's conventionally referred to here as the rear dif bushing. If so, it fails a lot.

I'm confused by what you mean as the pumpkin, I think; at first I thought you meant the Universal joint aka guibo, then a subframe bushing, now I have no idea!
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Old 08-27-2011, 12:05 PM   #31
Geo31
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I thought that was what's conventionally referred to here as the rear dif bushing. If so, it fails a lot.

I'm confused by what you mean as the pumpkin, I think; at first I thought you meant the Universal joint aka guibo, then a subframe bushing, now I have no idea!
Yep, that's the one. Pumpkin = diff.

I just looked at a Tuner Motorsports solid bushing kit for the subframe and I see that this bushing is attached to the subframe. Now I'm pissed again at the shop that did the subframe repair. Now I have to pay to drop the subframe again. Bastards.
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Old 08-27-2011, 12:18 PM   #32
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Yep, that's the one. Pumpkin = diff.

I just looked at a Tuner Motorsports solid bushing kit for the subframe and I see that this bushing is attached to the subframe. Now I'm pissed again at the shop that did the subframe repair. Now I have to pay to drop the subframe again. Bastards.
Not for the rear diff bushing you don't. I had it done...I know it's a pitb to get out, but my subframe wasn't moved.

You might want to doublecheck this George, but many here have had this bushing replaced, as it's one of the favorite solutions to a rear-end clunk when engaging first or reverse. I had it...probably everyone has or will.
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Old 08-31-2011, 04:58 PM   #33
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Okie dokie, as promised.....

Diagnose "no start" and replace FP: $240 labor, $329 parts!

They also got me for $43 in "Shop Supplies." I love this one. It's a license to raid my wallet further. I cannot imagine any shop supplies that could come to this.

I still trust them more than any other shop I've come across, but within about 10 miles there's another BMW indy shop. I may have to check them out. I knew I was going to have to over pay for this, but I think this is excessive.

You should see the quotes for the other recommended repairs (all things I'm going to do myself). The best is to R&R the struts/shocks: $2k!!! I'll ordering some Konis from one of the sponsors here with new mounts, spring seat rubber, bump stops, weather shields. Less than $600 and a few hours time.
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