Project: Sleeper wagon

Didn't expect to play "name that part" game. If you mean the round thing under the thermostat then it's not metal. It's actually plastic crankshaft seal. Not sure if I'm gonna use it.
I didn't get a chance to start working on it. The bottom gaskets will be changed first.
Still waiting for the VANOS seals from Beisan.
Once that's done I'll start removing the old motor.

I Sub'ed for more..
Very interesting project.

Originally Posted by lab rat

Didn't expect to play "name that part" game. If you mean the round thing under the thermostat then it's not metal. It's actually plastic crankshaft seal. Not sure if I'm gonna use it.
I didn't get a chance to start working on it. The bottom gaskets will be changed first.
Still waiting for the VANOS seals from Beisan.
Once that's done I'll start removing the old motor.

As soon as i read rubber i knew what it was

I hope you're going for the oilpump fix while you're dropping the pan ?

Originally Posted by Pir4t

As soon as i read rubber i knew what it was

I hope you're going for the oilpump fix while you're dropping the pan ?

Oil pump fix? Why, do they break?
I welcome all ideas on preventive maintenance. Just about everything is very easy to do while the motor is out.

In for updates

Originally Posted by lab rat

Oil pump fix? Why, do they break?
I welcome all ideas on preventive maintenance. Just about everything is very easy to do while the motor is out.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=456393

Pretty much everyone i've seen taking apart an engine has noted the nut to break free easy or even begining to untread itself.

Cheap fix is to weld the nut on the shaft , i've heard that the shaft might break instead.
Expensive fix(i went with this) is to pm vaio(some numbers here) and buy his custom pump
EDIT : Screename is vaio76109 Greg's a really nice guy

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=833891

Thanks Pir4t, I'll look into it.

UPDATE: Took off the oil pan. The oil pump is fine but there was no gasket on the pan. WTF?
I'm starting to be worried about the previous life of this engine.

i wonder if the wrecking yard removed the pan to completely drain? although I cant see them taking that much time

Wednesday night - time for some dirty fun



VANOS seals done. Water pump, thermostat, and bottom end gaskets are next.

I was hoping to use the first post for updates on progress but now I ran into 2 months limit for editing a post. DOH!

UPDATE: Finally started taking the front end apart. Found a Dinan CAI sticker so that would explain good dyno numbers (I got the car with stock intake but it's running the Dinan SW).

Good: The ugly sideskirts are gone, there is no rust underneath. I found good source of used transmissions so I'll probably go for the stronger 330 transmission.

Bad: The M3 bumper is some cheap fiberglass piece of junk. It fit surprisingly nice but I'm not gonna keep it. Getting quotes for M-Tech II. I'm also going to bring the side and bumper trim back to black.

Not much of an update, the motor is still in the car

I researched transmission options and upgrading to stronger 330 5-speed transmission is not gonna be any easier than going straight for the 6-speed.
Ordered the 6-speed gearbox, driveshaft, shifter with linkage and 3.07 diff. I'm not sure which diff I'm gonna go with. I think I'm gonna try the 3.07 (easier install, no input flange change). If it turns out to be too slow I'll put in the 3.46 the car came with.

Stay 3.07 if FI and six speed are part of the equation. 3.46 + 5mt will spin 3500 rpms at cruising speeds of 65-75, not an ideal s/c cruise point.

Yeah, but I'll have 6 speed. Speed limits are really low around here. 70mph is 2459 RPM with 3.46 diff.

sweet build, can't wait to see the finished project

3.46 is good

Originally Posted by lsteg

sweet build, can't wait to see the finished project

I can only work on the car in the evenings so it's gonna take some time. Today's mission was disconnecting the driveshaft and exhaust. Driveshaft went well, exhaust bolts are real pain. Only got the two easier ones out today.

The supercharger bits and the 6 speed drivetrain should be here later this week.

from experience - drop the front suspension with the engine and trans all in one - otherwise it is a biotch to remove trans from engine - or bring the two out together with the front subframe in position...no matter what - you will need to drop the front subframe at least an inch on front bolts and almost all the way on the back bolts...

it REALLY makes life easy to drop everything as one...or lift the body off the combined components really...

Thanks, I was just looking at that yesterday how the oil pan is wedged behind the crossmember. I'm going to try to pull the engine out with the transmission attached.

330ZHP,
Would it help if the engine mount "arms" were removed prior to pulling the engine/tranny out with the hoist?
I tried that on the E36 and it worked great. I have no clue if it's doable on the E46.
I'm also sub to this thread. My 323 Touring is rather anemic...

the problem is the oil pan and the subframe will occupy the same place when coming up and out..it gets worse if you install the SC prior to engine install - which I recommend - if you drop the subframe you can install the SC and then install the engine assembly and the trans all in one