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EML, Traction control, and Brake light all of a sudden came on *HELP*

81K views 29 replies 20 participants last post by  Alex Giassi 
#1 ·
Hey guys, I was driving to church with my wife and out of nowhere my EML, Traction controll, and brake light come in yellow (not the ebrake light in red). I do have an engine light on due to a bad intake boot, has a leak in it, dnt really feel like replacing it since im going to be getting a K&N intake.

The check engine light is for bank 1 and bank 2 being to lean which is due to the boot. This is the first time the three lights came on, I do drive a manual, if that matters. I felt no difference in ride quality, when i noticed the lights on i quickly pulled over, shut the car off than turned it back on, everything went away, i drove to church and back home (about 10-20 miles) without them coming back on.

Has anyone run into this problem? is it something to be worried about? could it possibly be a faulty sensor or maybe even my intake boot leak?

I did search and found a thread with the op having the same problem as me, but nobody had a solution.
http://www.e46fanatics.com/forum/sh...ght=eml+traction+control+brake+light+comes+on

help would be appreciated, thanks.
 
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#11 ·
Ive only dealt with their parts department and WOW what a bunch of idiots. one time i wanted to buy a bmw tool, called them up, the guy told me to go online and find him a part number for a BMW tool so he could see if they had one in stock. I was like your kidding me right? you work at bmw and your telling me to go online and find a part number for a part you make. Fort myers is about an hour away, really just gonna try my luck with the sarasota one, their only 20 min away.
 
#14 ·
Jesus all this guessing...

EML light comes on when the DME cant control the engine propery, you said your intakr boot was broken so my thoughts are that your TB is seized(a motor tries to move it , if it cant then the wire will move it and you will have an EML light)

As the throttle is part of the xSC system that light (and brake light) will come on aswell.

That the light isnt permanent is usually a sign of this happening.
 
#25 ·
EML light comes on when the DME cant control the engine propery, you said your intakr boot was broken so my thoughts are that your TB is seized(a motor tries to move it , if it cant then the wire will move it and you will have an EML light)

As the throttle is part of the xSC system that light (and brake light) will come on aswell.
This would be the best answer out of everyone who replied on here. EML is usually related to the throttle body. I would try these steps.
  • Clean throttle body flaps inside and out with throttle body cleaner. Removing it is best way to clean it.
  • Clean Idle Control Valve (IDC)
  • Make sure there are no rips in boots. If so replace.
  • Last option is to change Throttle body or MAF if the problem is still not solved. The potentiometers imbedded in the TB is most likely not working properly.
 
#15 ·
well this problem is happening to me again.... first time 2 years ago alternator was bad... low voltage supplied....
this time the alternator was bad again and the voltage kept spiking between 11 to 17 volts... but the problem is still occurring... after reading a few articles about this issue, i read that the throttle body valve sticking/seizing might be cause of it and also the TB is tied into the abs and dsc systems... i did notice that my idle is lower than normal.. i'm hoping cleaning the TB or maybe replacing it will fix this issue... also will be checking for a ripped boot...
 
#17 ·
Same problem on my 2002 325i

Good afternoon.
I bought my first BMW 2002 325i about 3 months ago.Its done 95000kms. After the first month, it started giving me EML Traction and Brake lights while driving. when these lights come on, the car would lose power and wont be able to drive. It became very often that I had to take it into a independent BMW specialist. Scanned the code, and it came up as jammed throttle body.

So they recommend to replace the throttle body. (the old throttle body in there was still looking very clean, to my understanding, the previous owner may have replace the throttle body about a year ago).

After the new throttle body was fitted, the car drives well for about 2 weeks and it start having the same problem again, but less often. Took it in again the have the code scanned. scan result came back like before: jammed throttle body.

This time they think possibly the ASC/ABS module is faulty, which trigger the throttle body. The computer never show any code relating to the ABS module.

Anyone with such knowledge, experiences, please HELP.

Thank you.
 
#20 ·
The same thing happened to me about 4 years ago, I got EML, TC and Brake light (yellow), engine went into limp mode. It happened in hot weather and once the engine heated up the light would go on. Turned out it was ASC/ABS control module and Throttle Body dying. I had no choice but to replace both...total cost $3,800AUD ($2,300 for ASC/ABS module programmed and $1,500 for new throttle body).

ASC/ABS module has to be programmed to your car by a dealer as the immobiliser and all other crap runs though it, so it's not a DIY fix.

I hope this isn't the cause of your problem, but based on my experience I'm guessing it most likely is.

On the side note, the ASC/ABS module apparently developed a hairline crack on the circuit board, and as the engine would heat up it would expand severing the connection between resistors which would make the dashboard light up like x-mas tree. Also this caused the throttle body to short circuit and die (based on what the Stealership told me).

Good luck.
 
#21 ·
I had this exact problem shortly after I bought my 2003 330ci and it turned out to be the MAF that was causing the 3 lights. Previous owner had replaced the MAF and used an aftermarket part. Replaced with a new OEM MAF and also had vac. leaks repaired. Problem solved
 
#23 ·
im having a similar issue with mine now .. but its the eml tc and check engine .. but when i shut it off and restart it it goes all off except the check engine it takes a lil longer to go away but it eventually leaves.. this is the second time its happen n the first time it was cuz i had a leakage in my radiator and needed to change my rack and pinion but now i have no clue why its doing it again after long months of not doing so. so hope you find an answer!
 
#28 · (Edited)
So today tried to have the car code as it got worse ever since the fuel filter was changed it was nothing challenging there. Found dry road floored the pedal , got limp mode appear few times that got a check engine. I got a p16a7 code .. searched a bit and found very useful infos.. I had cleaned the maf the same day we changed the fuel filter and than realised it had gotten worse, thinking it could be linked with the fuel filter repair. Had totally forgotten the maf cleaning in the equation..

My friends got a car same as mine, no more speed sensors of any kind so im starting to doubt, but still will confirm as soon as I get them. so today I decided to switch the maf and try his, deleted the p16a7 code which was the only one, did the reset throttle adaptation again as i was not sure i had done it properly the first time.

My ltft came from about 16-20 to 0 - 4 . So that is now clear that my maf was dying, and that I probably made it worse when trying to clean.

I could not test it on any dry surface as the streets covered with snow but i floored it on the most dry surfaces i have found. Even floored it in 3rd gear at low rpm to make it have to work hard and it did not stall. I will test it on dry , it does not garantee the eml safe mode is fixed yet but there is a hugeeee improvment on the ltft values and i felt it was responding better. So having your maf cleaned does not guarantee to have it in a perfect working order, just to mention not to take this for granted as I did.


It may not be it but until I find out look at this too..in my researches I have found a mecanic that have encountered the problem and his thread does actually make lot of sens and is worth giving a try.

http://www.baltimore-bimmer.com/a-very-challenging-diagnosisp16a7-e46-2004/


I will feedback when tested on dry , will check if it bugs if codes come back , if there are will test my ltft once theyre back.



UPDATE the car is fixed. Tested on dry road, floored the s out of it 1 2 3 going uphill and its back to lifeeee. To me the p16a7 was the maf, could only be the maf. Cleaning it might not solve your issue.
Try to find someone who owns one if you can and test ot out. If getting the code and issue after, try the o2 sensor unplugging test from the link above.

I was also getting a lean p0174 code and my ltft were high around 16-19 They are now around 3 which is the normal. P0174 suggest possible issues such as air leaks or a lack of gaz pressure, dying gas pump, faulty injectors or fuel filter... so I also changed the fuel filter as it was cheap and probably due anyway! So the only thing is that Im not sure if this was the maf only that solved the limp mode eml issue or if the fuel filter as a part to play in it. I would tend to think that it was only maf, but my buddy thinks it could be the fuel filter .The maf was faulty for sure from the p16a7 code.

But all I can say for sure, it was not the abs speed sensors or oil level sensor causing a bad ground and a voltage loss. It still could be the issue , so if you want to test, access the secret dashboard menu and check your voltage while you drive and especially when the safe mode problem occurs. That will show you wether or not you have a bad ground causing it.

I doubt the following was the real solutions but I also put a gaz cleaner to clean injectors and lines. I also did a throttle adaptation reset.


For the rest , if no p16a7 code, check your vacuum leaks. I had the problem badly when I had a cracked intake boot. Check the fuel pressure regulator hose thats on the fuel filter . The 2 ends are in rubber and can get falling apart. Many people forget this leak, it was not my problem but worth looking into it.


Hope it can help some people with this! Message if you have any questions
 
#30 ·
I’m having the exact same problem in my 05 325i, but my intake boot is still in good condition. I took it to my mechanic and he did a smoke test and found that I needed my crankshaft case seal replaced as it was leaking and causing a vaccum issue allegedly. He did the job which was 1000 bucks, just for the issue to come back while leaving the mechanic. So if they tell you that it’s a crankshaft case seal chances are it’s not. At least in my experience.
 
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