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General E46 Forum
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:21 AM   #41
Nervous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trizzuth View Post
damn bro, you should open up a shop to diagnose/fix A/C problems with all the knowledge and tools you have now!
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:38 AM   #42
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Nervous - great work! Very thorough. How about putting the link in your sig to make it easy to find, after it slides off Page 1?

Do you know roughly what you had to spend on specialized gear - manifold, vacuum pump, etc.?

Thanks for taking the trouble to do all the pics and the write-up...
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Old 07-13-2012, 11:11 AM   #43
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Thanks, I've put my DIYs into my sig.

As to the cost of tools:
  • Mastercool 99872A Digital R-134A Manifold Gauge Set, $128.79, automotivetoolsonline.com
  • Robinair 15500 VacuMaster 5 CFM Vacuum Pump, $169.19, amazon.com
  • Mastercool Flush kit (MAS91046-A) $32.95, tooltopia.com
  • Mastercool 85510 R134a Can Tap Valve-Screw-On Model, $8.84, amazon.com
  • scales (already had)

Supplies:
  • One Bottle 8oz Refrigerant Oil FJC PAG 46 A/C R134a Oil, $12.15, amazon.com
  • Two bottles of FJC Flush solvent FJC2405, $11.19ea, tooltopia.com (actually, I needed only one)
  • 3 cans of R134a refrigerant, $9.97 ea, Walmart

Parts:
  • Condenser (TYC, from rockauto.com) - $90
  • dryer (autohausaz.com) - $37
  • expansion valve (autohausaz.com) - $40
  • pressure sensor (rmeuropean.com) - $41
  • New LOW and HIGH shrader valves (bmwmercedesparts.com) - $8.76ea
  • Inline filter (http://www.auto-air-compressor.com/In_Line_Filter.html) - $38
  • O-rings from different vendors (autohausaz and rmeuropean, mostly) - don't remember how much, but not a lot.

Last edited by Nervous; 07-13-2012 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:17 AM   #44
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Hey nervous good info here but there are a couple of things that i need to point out, pressure and temp are pretty close so when reading psi think temperature as well so

First, when checking the static pressures they should be about the same as ambient temps and the hi side and low side should be the about the same make sure system is not on or has not been operated

Second, when checking pressure with the system running you should check them with the blower at max speed and engine at 1500 to 2000 rpms.

Third, hi side pressures are based on ambient temp and there is a formula for getting your specs its 2.42 x Ambient temp for min hi side spec and 2.4 x Ambient temp + 50 to get your max hi side spec.

Fourth, the expansion valve(h valve) is normally set to operate the system between 10-30 psi there perfect at 22psi. Anything higher and there is either to much refrigerant or oil or not enough air flow to the condenser causing pressures to go up. Diagnose from the hi side because the metering device does a good job of compensating for low or too much refrigerant and will keep the low side in spec or close to spec

I'm no a/c expert by any means i just have some knowledge from school and just trying to input what i know.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:49 PM   #46
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This is all excellent information, thanks for all of the hard work Nervous, as well as taking the time to show us all the process and results!

Quick note... your INPA images from Post #3 are not loading, any way to fix that?

I don't feel like my AC has ever really run to its full potential... I will use this thread as a guide when I get around to checking each component.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:04 PM   #47
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Hmm, no idea why some of my pics are lost and I can't edit my post. So, here are the lost images:
Post #1:

Post #3:



Post #4:
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:27 PM   #48
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Excellent sir, thank you!

I applaud your organizational skills, for I can only assume that to reply with the missing photos within minutes, they must be stellar.
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Old 11-23-2012, 11:14 PM   #49
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amazing work! this is going to be my next overhaul

Last edited by flashmeow; 11-23-2012 at 11:14 PM.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:50 AM   #50
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So Nervous, what would you say was the root cause of your A/C problem?
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:25 PM   #51
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nervous...do you have a copy of the temperature/pressure reading. BMW AG told spagetti code reader to remove their TIS so now we have one less resources to view on the internet =(
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:28 PM   #52
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BMWCaptain, sorry missed your question. I bet it was the pressure sensor mounted on top of the drier.
flashmeow, I'll try not to forget and make screenshots with this info from my TIS.
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Old 01-04-2013, 04:18 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nervous View Post
Here it is, TIS info about pressures: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwF...1RDYlpiYlVma1E
thank you! you got yourself a gold star for today's contribution to the community
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Old 06-16-2017, 03:25 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nervous View Post
Here it is, TIS info about pressures: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwF...1RDYlpiYlVma1E
I know this thread is quite old but I'll try anyway:
I've recently replaced my evaporator, expansion valve and dryer and had my system recharged. The problem is that my system is still not cooling enough.
I'm also using INPA to read all the values but I don't have a manifold set so I can only read the pressure on the high side.

Now even when it's 86F outside, my high side pressure never gets above 12 bar (174 psi). When it's about 70F my high pressure never exceeds 165 psi. I remember that when my system was recharged, the low side started off at 43 psi and got down to 32 psi after a minute or so. Back then it was about 70F outside.

My evap core cools down to 36F, but does not always stay there. Sometimes it goes up to 62F or more. During all this the compressor remains engaged. I can tell because it's whining a bit, the system is a bit too low on oil. Also you can see in the vid below that the pressure is not really changing when the evap temp starts to fluctuate:



Since I have a variable displacement compressor, I'm thinking it could be one of two things:
The compressor has too much wear and isn't performing good enough anymore, or the control valve is not working properly.

Buying a used compressor, having the system evacuated, replacing it and charging the system again will set me back quite a bit, so first I'd like your opinions on this. Do you think I have a bad compressor?

Btw here is some information on the variable displacement compressors in the E46 (>2001)
and the IHKA system in general:
http://www.bmwcarx.com/web/Documento...lClimatico.pdf
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Old 06-16-2017, 06:18 PM   #56
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You are probably low on R134a.

Need to borrow a manifold guage set and add R134a untill you dial in the low side pressure to 35 psi or less.

Keep adding a little at a time and wait for it to stabilize.

High side should be about 2.5x degrees fahrenheit.

Or if no manifold, keep adding slowly until temperature no longer drops.

Adf R134a slowly and wait for it to stabilize.
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:10 AM   #57
Humpus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWCaptain View Post
You are probably low on R134a.
It's been like this ever since my AC guy recharged the system.
That was 3 weeks ago, and the readings are still the same, so I'm sure I have the correct amount of R134a and I don't have any major leaks.

Today it's pretty hot outside (86F) and it takes the AC more than 15 minutes to start blowing really cold air (under 50F from the vents), so I'm pretty sure my compressor has too much wear. Unless not enough oil in the system can decrease the compressor's performance so drastically?
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