Engine running shakey

OK, so here

Originally Posted by Dedney

OK, so here

OK, so here's what you want to do.

Lol, not sure what happened..

OK, so here

Wtf!! I copy & paste & nothing else is showing up.

OK, so here’s the lowdown:

01 325i w/ about 140k miles on it. I bought it back in Feb of this year.
Back in probably May or June, I began running regular gas in it, trying to save that buck. I read several posts on the web where people said it shouldn’t harm the vehicle. Last week, I finally got my first overtime check in over 6 months, so I decided to start putting premium in the tank.

That next day, I was driving it home & it began to shake & hesitate really bad & the check engine light came on. I went to Autozone & had them scan it. It came up w/ P1345: misfire on cylinder 2 w/ fuel cutoff.. So, I researched it & decided to start the cheapest & go from there. I put in a new plug. NGK 4 prong plugs were in it, so I went w/ another one of those. I still had the same issue, so I then swapped over the coils 1 & 2.. Still drove bad, so I went to Autozone to have them scan it agin.* This time, I got different codes, but it was for cylinders 5 & 6!!* WTF!!??* So, again, trying to start the cheapest, I went & got 2 more plugs.* I tried to drive it to work last night & it sounded like it didn’t even want to shift!* Last night was the worst it’s sounded yet..
*
So, now, I have 3 new plugs, I’ve put the coils back to 1 & 2’s respective cylinders & am wondering what to do next.* I’ve been researching testing the coils, & I’ll also be pulling those coils to check the boots.* But, seeing how this problem jumped from 2 to 5 to 6, I’m thinking it may be more of an issue than just the coils..
*
Anybody out there have any other suggestions?* I think I remember seeing something about the MAF or the CPS??
*
Thanks-

Trying to guess at this over the Web......well I'm going with fuel & not ignition.
I'd do two things: 1) BG 44K Fuel Injector Cleaner, this is widely used at most dealers, I personally swear by it. You can get it on Ebay for about $16-$17 a can, or at a BMW / Mercedes dealer for $24-$30. I'd get 3 cans on Ebay & run 2 cans through it in one tank full.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BG-44K-POWER...item19c9b58609

2) New fuel filter.



Good luck.

Thanks!! I'll probably order some. Just to let you know. This afternoon before I came to work, I thought I'd check the condition of the plug boots. They were all good. Some were kinda loose, & some would "pop" onto the plug. I started the car & it was idling horrible! Decided to drive it down the road. When I'd give it gas, it really bogged down bad & instead of accellerating, it was slowing down. Is there a way I can check/test the fuel filter, rather than just get a new one right away?

Originally Posted by Dedney

Thanks!! I'll probably order some. Just to let you know. This afternoon before I came to work, I thought I'd check the condition of the plug boots. They were all good. Some were kinda loose, & some would "pop" onto the plug. I started the car & it was idling horrible! Decided to drive it down the road. When I'd give it gas, it really bogged down bad & instead of accellerating, it was slowing down. Is there a way I can check/test the fuel filter, rather than just get a new one right away?

Not that I'm a where of.

$44.66 on sale at Turner Motorsports
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-39...el-filter.aspx



Good luck.

Fuel filter ordered. Hopefully I'll have it by Monday. Car is sitting on jackstands & Im forced to drive the mini van!!

They sell that BG 44k at the Nissan dealerships around here.

Alright, now I'm hoping this gets easier... Filter arrived yesterday. I followed some instructions on youtube & pulled the fuel filter fuse prior to starting up. I got everything back together (fuse included), and now it wont start.. Is there a way that I'm supposed to be priming this or something??

Originally Posted by Dedney

Alright, now I'm hoping this gets easier... Filter arrived yesterday. I followed some instructions on youtube & pulled the fuel filter fuse prior to starting up. I got everything back together (fuse included), and now it wont start.. Is there a way that I'm supposed to be priming this or something??

make sure you didn't get the input and outputs mixed up on the fuel filter. the motor won't start if they are backwards. also since you pulled the fuse, make sure you prime the system a couple of times. do this by just turning the ignition on until you hear the fuel pump go on and then wait til it goes off. do that 2-3 times to make sure the lines are fully primed.


my parents 330 is having the same issue. maybe i should try some of that fuel cleaner.

OK, thanks for the quick reply. I'll go check it out. I thought the way the hoses are lined up, that it would be kind of hard to put it back together wrong.

Well, I flipped it both ways. Neither worked. I put it back to its first setup. It sounded like it wanted to start, but then went back to just cranking... WTF!?! A simple task like changing the filter & now it won't start!!?? I even double checked the fuse.

When you turn ignition to "on" (2nd position" but don't try to start, do you hear your fuel pump making a faint whine under the right rear seat? With a new filter, could take several seconds of priming to re-pressurize the fuel rail. You could also look for the schraeder valve on the fuel rail, unscrew the plastic cap, cover with a rag and carefully press the valve center to see if you have fuel pressure. (Wear eye protection.)

Just woke up for tonights shift. I'm off all day tomorrow, so I'll try that. I've even considered putting the old filter back on just to see if the car would start. I did blow through the old (very difficult) and the new one (very easy, no restriction).

Just put the key in position 2 for about 10 seconds, then off, then start. As for running 87 to save money, you're actually spending more because you will get worse gas mileage. Run the 91 and the car and your wallet will both be happier.

Thanks for the input, Master C. I've been doing that too. Somebody suggested that I try & jumpstart it. Anybody here second that idea? Hoping ome of my father-in-laws mechanics can come over on Thurs. to help diagnose.

Update:
Long story short, it was flooded. Finally got it started back up. Cleared the code & started it again. Missfire cyl #5. So, we swap 5 over to 3, clear the code & start it again. Missfire cyl #3... Coil has been ordered. Hoping it'll be here today or tomorrow.

Just in case anybody out there is following:

I replaced all plugs, fuel filter & 2 coils. It was running bad when I would take off from a red light, then kick in & drive great!! I could feel the difference. But, like I said, it still ran shitty when taking off. There was no check engine light for about a week.

Now, yesterday it came back on. I scanned it & now it gave me the P-0128, low coolant temp, thermostat... Something like that. WTF!?!? Why does this problem go from coils to the thermostat?? Could my computer be making the car run bad from when it first started running like this?

Thinking of clearing the code & seeing if the check engine light comes back on w/ same code...