E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Welcome to the E46Fanatics forums. E46Fanatics is the premiere website for BMW 3 series owners around the world with interactive forums, a geographical enthusiast directory, photo galleries, and technical information for BMW enthusiasts.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   E46Fanatics > E46 BMW > General E46 Forum

General E46 Forum
This is the place to get answers, opinions and everything you need related to your E46 (sedan, coupe, convertible and wagon) BMW!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 11-10-2011, 02:55 AM   #1
jetblackmaverick
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 362
My Ride: parting out...=(
which switch in pic is the one that is depressed with the clutch?

So my bro had a shop do some dumb@ss push button start deal and now I am left having to return the car back to a clutch pedal start car. problem is the shop removed the switch that is pushed in when you depress the clutch. It is obviously # 11 or 12 in the pic, but im not sure which.
jetblackmaverick is offline   Reply With Quote
Ads by Google

Guests, get your FREE E46Fanatics.com membership to remove this ad.
Old 11-10-2011, 03:25 AM   #2
MJLavelle
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 2,753
My Ride: 2001 BMW 330ci
I am assuming you are using RealOEM.com. If not, then go there. Because they describe part #12 as the clutch switch, and #11 as the brake switch.
I am glad you are switching it back. That is one dumb a$$ thing to do, and is illegal in some states.
MJLavelle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-10-2011, 03:34 AM   #3
jetblackmaverick
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 362
My Ride: parting out...=(
that is real oem and I just want to verify with someone because both 11 and 12 in the diagram are affected by the clutch pedal; one is released when the clutch is depressed then one is pressed. thanks!
jetblackmaverick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2011, 12:32 PM   #4
akosht
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 22
My Ride: 1999 323i
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetblackmaverick View Post
that is real oem and I just want to verify with someone because both 11 and 12 in the diagram are affected by the clutch pedal; one is released when the clutch is depressed then one is pressed. thanks!
yeah they exploded diagram doesnt even match my car. the one that is closed when the clutch is depressed is probably #12 but it is aligned wrong in the pic. it is actually installed 180 degrees to the alignment your diagram shows...

did you ever get an answer as to which one is or are they both used to provide signals to the car to start it??
akosht is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2011, 01:39 PM   #5
lcoleman
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: the barnyard
Posts: 2,458
My Ride: '79 Massey Ferguson
I'm pretty sure #11 is the brake light switch.

Why not leave it out? I hear that starting in neutral without the clutch depressed is better for the bearings...I assume throwout or thrust, or both.
lcoleman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2011, 06:11 PM   #6
NJFF26
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 178
My Ride: 02 325xi
Quote:
Originally Posted by lcoleman View Post
I'm pretty sure #11 is the brake light switch.

Why not leave it out? I hear that starting in neutral without the clutch depressed is better for the bearings...I assume throwout or thrust, or both.
Except when you leave the car in gear and forget and go to start it without the clutch pressed in and it jumps forward into something.
NJFF26 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2011, 06:16 PM   #7
TX78666
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: 78666
Posts: 776
My Ride: 330i ZHP, N55 135i
Quote:
Originally Posted by njff26 View Post
except when you leave the car in gear and forget and go to start it without the clutch pressed in and it jumps forward into someone.
fify
__________________
Because... Grocery Getter.


TX78666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2011, 06:41 PM   #8
lcoleman
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: the barnyard
Posts: 2,458
My Ride: '79 Massey Ferguson
I can safely say that I have never done that. Do you think cars have always had them?

Also, a failed CSS means the car won't start. That sucks.
lcoleman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2011, 06:57 PM   #9
TX78666
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: 78666
Posts: 776
My Ride: 330i ZHP, N55 135i
They haven't always had seatbelts, or ABS, either. I believe someone in another thread on this site, had a remote start, which caused all kinds of damage when someone clicked it at the shop.
__________________
Because... Grocery Getter.


TX78666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2011, 08:16 PM   #10
TitaniumCranium
/// Limitless
 
TitaniumCranium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle / Sequim
Posts: 3,216
My Ride: 2002 BMW 330Ci
It depends on what year car you have. Earlier cars used switch #12 as a neutral safety switch. Switch #11 is the brake light switch.

Later model cars used a hall effect sensor mounted on the master cylinder.

I believe that switch #12 is also a hall effect switch with 4 wires. one goes to ground, one goes to the battery positive wire feeding from the brake switch (sensor) wiring, one goes up to the ECU and the last one goes to the immobilizer unit.
__________________

/// MODS
/// Auto => 6-Spd Manual Conversion | Apex EC-7 | Koni/Ground Control Coilovers | Vorshlag Camber Plates | Meyle HD LCA | PowerFlex bushings | GruppeM rep CAI | Shark Injector | 6000k HID's and Fogs | BMW European MTechII | BMW Performance Shifter | ACS Mirrors and Rear Spoiler ///

Last edited by TitaniumCranium; 12-08-2011 at 10:24 PM. Reason: got my numbers backwards - corrected the issue
TitaniumCranium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2011, 08:20 PM   #11
TitaniumCranium
/// Limitless
 
TitaniumCranium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Seattle / Sequim
Posts: 3,216
My Ride: 2002 BMW 330Ci

^ On the left is the wire you just installed, coming down from the DME (ECU) and the wires attached to the clutch switch module, which snaps onto the clutch master cylinder.

Here is the reference for the clutch switch module pin-out. In short you will be supplying the hall effect sensor on the clutch switch module with power from the brake switch wiring, you will connect a wire to the DME (ECU), and the EWS (engine immobilizer unit).

PIN 1:
- Wire Color: BROWN/BLACK (brown wire, black stripe)
- Purpose: Provides Ground for the power side of the clutch module
- Connects too: Brake wiring, PIN 2 (same color)

PIN 2:
- Wire Color: BLUE/BROWN (blue wire, brown stripe)
- Purpose: Tells the DME (ECU) when the clutch is depressed in order to start the car and kill cruise control. Killing Cruise control will only work when the DME is re-coded to a manual.
- Connects too: PIN 23 of the DME, Module number X6004

PIN 3:
- Wire Color: VIOLET/YELLOW (violet wire, yellow stripe)
- Purpose: Provides + voltage for the power side of the clutch module
- Connects too: Brake wiring, PIN 1 (same color)

PIN 4:
- Wire Color: BLUE/BLACK (blue wire, black stripe)
- Purpose: Signals the engine immobilizer unit that a proper key for this car is in the ignition and in the start position, this is a valid start request so start the engine. THIS MUST BE HOOKED UP TO START THE CAR
- Connects too: PIN 8 of EWS (engine immobilizer unit)


_________________________________________

This wiring layout is for the type of switch that is mounted to the master cylinder with DME MS43, although I believe that both switches are wired the same. If you use the type that is mounted to the pedal bracket I think the wiring is the same but you should check the wiring diagram for your model car/DME to make sure.
__________________

/// MODS
/// Auto => 6-Spd Manual Conversion | Apex EC-7 | Koni/Ground Control Coilovers | Vorshlag Camber Plates | Meyle HD LCA | PowerFlex bushings | GruppeM rep CAI | Shark Injector | 6000k HID's and Fogs | BMW European MTechII | BMW Performance Shifter | ACS Mirrors and Rear Spoiler ///
TitaniumCranium is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
(c) 1999 - 2011 performanceIX Inc - privacy policy - terms of use