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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 05-20-2013, 06:08 PM   #1
jjrichar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 246
My Ride: 330 Ci convertible
DIY: Coupe/Convertible front window regulator

Some may have seen the window pretension DIY I put up in the general forum a few weeks ago.

Link here:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=986621

Well, as it turned out, the adjustment didnít work. I did it exactly the way the TIS said to do it, but for some reason it didnít play the game. This window has always been a problem for me since Iíve had the car. It was always more loose in the regulator than the other window, and as a result it rattled against the rear window.

I eventually decided that I needed to pull apart the window mechanism completely to find out how it worked and to fix it properly for good. Below are the results. Whilst similar, it is different to the sedan window that Iíve seen a DIY for here on this forum. What Iíve written below may be of some use to sedan owners as well as a lot of the basic concepts of how it works are the same. The reason for the DIY not working was that one of the pieces in the regulator was missing. Mmmmmm. Another (amongst many) reason for me doing all of this stuff myself and not allowing BMW to work on my car. The window had clearly been worked on before, and the number of bits that went back in was clearly not the same as the number that came out.

A couple of points before I start:

Airbag: If you turn the ignition on with the airbag disconnected, it will immediately give you an airbag code. If you donít have the DIS or INPA to reset the airbag codes this is going to be a problem. If this is the case, prior to airbag disconnection, disconnect the battery. Now disconnect the airbag for the task you need to do, but then connect it again prior to connecting the battery and turning the ignition on. You need to remove the airbag so you can remove the noise insulation, and also for its installation. Some people just leave the airbag connected. I would advise against this. There is nowhere to hang it, and the door is going to get moved a whole lot when you are doing this DIY. The chance of damage to the airbag is high in my opinion if you leave it connected.

The window canít fall out of the mounts when the bolts that hold it in are loosened. With the bolts loose, the window can quite happily be raised and lowered with no danger. It is impossible to pull the window from its rear mount without the bolt removed, and the window needs to be pulled up about 1.5 inches from the front mount to get it out.

The regulator for the coupe/convertible is obviously much stronger than the sedan regulator that seems to have so many problems. The plastic pieces that break so much on the sedan donít exist on this regulator. My guess is that they made it stronger due to the window being floating and being much bigger.

First task is to remove the inner door trim. When you first remove the trim, have something to sit it on. There are a bunch of cables and stuff that need to be disconnected prior to moving the trim away.








Now remove the two pieces of window trim shown in the next photo. Without doing this it is impossible to get the window out.






Now remove the airbag. Ensure the battery is disconnected and the ignition off. Once the sound insulation is off, then plug the airbag back in and mount again with the bolts. You can then reconnect the battery for the remainder of the DIY until installation, where the same will need to be done again.
You will notice that the black sticky gum that holds on the sound insulation is a complete mess. For those who havenít taken it off before, it has the consistency of chewing gum. It sticks like crazy, and when you try and pull it apart, you end up with loads of strings that go everywhere. Iíve tried using a razor blade to cut the gum with little success. I read somewhere lately to use scissors. This worked much better than previous times Iíd done the job. Just pull the sound insulation about an inch, and then cut the gum. Makes light work of it. Also, Iíd read that if the gum is really hard (cold weather), use a hair dryer to warm so that it is softer to remove, as well as making it sticky for installation.






After removal of the sound insulation, raise the window as described below and remove both attachment bolts. The window can now be pull up and out. Easiest to pull the rear portion out first.





Now unplug and remove the motor. Photos below were taken with the regulator out of the door for clarity.












Now remove the rear guide.






And then the front guide.






With the regulator out, here is what it looks like.






Here are a few photos of all the attachment points, what they do, and how they are adjusted. All adjustments to the windowís position can be done from the outside. Longitudinal and pretension adjustment is done through the holes behind the bumper strip (see link above) with the window attachment bolts loosened. Vertical adjustment is done through the bottom of the door. There are two holes that line up with the vertical adjustment torx bolts under the door. Very easy to find when the door is open. They are the only holes there. Make sure the window is all the way down to do the vertical adjustment.

Note there is a hex piece that is missing from these photos. This was always missing from the regulator, and is why my pretension adjustment didn't work. If you go to the link above and scroll down, there is a post from cvx5832 the has some really good info on the parts and how it works.


















Installation is the reverse of this. Order and notes for the installation are:

1. Front slider without motor attached. Three nuts torque 9.5 Nm

2. Rear slider. Two nuts torque 9.5 Nm.

3. Attach motor and attach plug to motor. Three torx screws 4.5 Nm.

4. Put in window glass. Put front edge in first and slot into the rubber guide
that the window runs in at the front edge. Lower into each of the regulator guides. Once in place, insert each E7 torx bolt and gently tighten (left hand thread).

5. Lower window all the way down.

6. Attach the trim at the top and back of the door. Put the back piece in first. Itís a bit difficult. You may have to raise slightly the outer top trim (chrome piece on outside) to fit back trim into position.

7. Disconnect battery and remove airbag. Unplug the airbag. Now install the sound insulation. It should just stick back on. If not, use a hair dryer to soften. Ensure you route all the electrical wires/bowden cable through the sound insulation like you found it. Once the sound insulation is back on, plug in the airbag and attach with three bolts. 8.5 Nm. Connect battery.

8. Attach window electronics module with two screws.

9. Place internal trim piece on something so that you can attach the speaker/mirror plugs and the bowden cable.

10. Place on inside trim. Place over top of lock button at top/back of door first, then push onto the rectangular clips along the top edge. Do this so that the trim is just sitting there without falling down by itself. Now all the small round clips need to be pushed into place. DO NOT just whack them in. Some of them wonít be aligned and you will just break the clips. Look between the trim and the door, and use a screwdriver to push the clips to align with the hole it is going to go into. Work your way around the whole trim panel (lie on the ground and look from underneath). Once all clips are in their place, work your way around the whole trim panel and push the clips home. You will hear a distinct Ďclickí when it goes in OK. Now install the 5 torx screws and replace the circular piece behind the opening handle and the airbag piece.

11. Go to the link above and adjust the window position. Adjust longitudinal position first, then pretension. Pretension is described in the link above.

12. Longitudinal position: Rear edge of window is 1-2 mm forward of the rear edge of the outer rubber. This is the rubber bit that touches the window glass on the outside that has the chrome attached to it. Photo below.






13. Vertical adjustment. Done from under the door with a T20 torx. Make adjustments with the window all the way down, and then raise to check. When the window is nearly all the way up, it should be perfectly parallel to the rubber (water drain) above it. When you close the door (with the window all the way up), the window should clear the water drain above it, and then slot up firmly into the seal when the door is closed completely.
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Old 05-20-2013, 07:36 PM   #2
cvx5832
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Thanks again for the DIY, I will definitely be using this when I replace my wobbly passenger window.
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Old 05-23-2013, 11:57 AM   #3
dirty vert
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Thanks for the DIY! When I got my car I had a clicking that would happen when the window was going up and down (about 8" from being all the way up). I looked for a DIY and the only thing I could find was for the sedan. I didn't take pics or do a DIY when I pulled mine apart, but I'm glad you took the time and did. I don't know what caused my clicking, but it went away after I put it all back together (it could have been the adjuster on the rear-it was worked on before and put back together wrong as well as there was no oring). I still need to put an oring on the rear carrier for adjustment-I used a zip tie.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:37 PM   #4
filipinoise
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I'll be using this soon. Looks very detailed, and I'll report back in a week or two, hopefully, when I find the time!
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:42 PM   #5
filipinoise
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My window regulator is stuck up and I can't even lower it 25% down to get to the E7 torx bolts. I've fiddled with everything trying to make it work, but no luck.. Whatsoever. Can I just cut those pesky cables since I literally have the replacement regulator sitting in my garage, waiting to be put on? I did some research, read around, and some people suggested it. Thoughts?
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Old 06-29-2013, 02:49 AM   #6
jjrichar
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Can't hurt to try. Just be careful and make sure the window is supported. You might have to cut the cables in a number of places.
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Old 06-29-2013, 03:35 AM   #7
filipinoise
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DIY: Coupe/Convertible front window regulator

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
Can't hurt to try. Just be careful and make sure the window is supported. You might have to cut the cables in a number of places.
Sure thing. I'll be doing it tomorrow & I'll also have someone with me to help me out by holding the window, etc. I'll also be removing the motor first before cutting the cables, of course. Let's hope all goes well.


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Old 06-29-2013, 10:43 AM   #8
dirty vert
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Good luck!!
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:05 PM   #9
filipinoise
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Finished the DIY today, pretty much just cut the cables in every place I saw and managed to get the window low enough to get to the E7 torx bolts and get them undone. Everything else after that was pretty much smooth sailing, may do this with my driver's side window soon as the window has been showing symptoms (popping, etc.) as of late and I don't want to have to deal with what had happened earlier again.

Thanks for the guide & help!
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Old 03-04-2014, 05:05 AM   #10
roblivingstone
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Sorry to resurrect this thread but first off. Thank you so much if your even still around, all these pictures and details. Probably one of the best DIY I have seen. Sticky? Haha



Now on to my question my windows for the rear passengers have a weather strip going down the B piller. Ones torn off the other is in pieces . Can I remove that and avoid air leaks into my cabin or do
They serve a purpose. I find the window looks really clean without them.

And. My windows let air the. The passenger door isn't on straight so I'm going to re align the door to have flush trim. Do you think that will bring my window up enough to fix hat sides air leak. The window literally blows a couple cm away from the headliner. And seems to be a cm or two bellow the chrome trim outside. I'm scared to adjust the door having a frameless window, thinking it may put the window up on the chrome and break the window.

Driver side also leaks but door is flush so I'm doing that regulator when the weather warms up. But passenger I want to do next weekend.




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Old 03-04-2014, 04:32 PM   #11
jjrichar
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I'm definitely still around. Nothing has broken on my car lately so I haven't had the need to disect anything.

It's a bit difficult to work out your problem without a photo. Post some of the problem and it should explain it a bit better.
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Old 03-04-2014, 05:04 PM   #12
roblivingstone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
I'm definitely still around. Nothing has broken on my car lately so I haven't had the need to disect anything.



It's a bit difficult to work out your problem without a photo. Post some of the problem and it should explain it a bit better.

Good point haha


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This is the passenger side Click image for larger version

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Now if that plays no part I'd love to not have it on the window at all lol




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Old 03-04-2014, 05:26 PM   #13
jjrichar
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For the window to open like that at speed tells me the pretension is probably not correct. Have you looked at the link at the top of thread that explains how to fix this. Obviously you need to mount the door correctly first.

For the seals that are deteriorating, personally I would replace these. I think they can be bought as an individual item separately from the window. Without these the windows will probably rattle against each other, as well as scraping glass on glass as you put the windows up and down.

I can't see it in the photo, but are the front windows fitting snuggly under the roof trim seals. If not, adjust the height of the window (instructions above) so they are nice and tight in the upper seals when the window is all the way up,
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:35 PM   #14
roblivingstone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjrichar View Post
For the window to open like that at speed tells me the pretension is probably not correct. Have you looked at the link at the top of thread that explains how to fix this. Obviously you need to mount the door correctly first.



For the seals that are deteriorating, personally I would replace these. I think they can be bought as an individual item separately from the window. Without these the windows will probably rattle against each other, as well as scraping glass on glass as you put the windows up and down.



I can't see it in the photo, but are the front windows fitting snuggly under the roof trim seals. If not, adjust the height of the window (instructions above) so they are nice and tight in the upper seals when the window is all the way up,

Nope they're not tight. Ill order the seals and adjust the door, and then adjust as per the link above for sure. Thanks




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Old 04-13-2014, 12:00 AM   #15
TopazCoop
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What a nice DIY

I used this today, and just wanted to compliment the OP on a wonderful DIY guide.

Thanks for spending the time to document this so completely. This is definitely bookmark material for me.
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:52 AM   #16
cosmos328Ci
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DIY: Coupe/Convertible front window regulator

Used this today.

For pre tension I just used a 13mm spanner from the inside rather than pulling the outside trim off.

Thanks again, made this job a lot easier.
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