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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 10-20-2012, 07:35 PM   #141
kowalzekc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRE97 View Post
There is a torque pattern. I do not have it handy. You start from the middle working crisscross towards both ends. Similar to tightening an intake manifold on a V8 of a 40 year old car.
Agree, start on one side, go straight accross, then just creat a circle going outwords. DO NOT START AT THE ENDS.
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Old 10-22-2012, 04:51 PM   #142
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I would appreciate some advice: I just broke a stud on top of the VCG as my torque wrench was not properly calibrated. How can I take it off?
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:24 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmagloir View Post
I would appreciate some advice: I just broke a stud on top of the VCG as my torque wrench was not properly calibrated. How can I take it off?
Drill the stud and use an "easy-out" or screw extractor.
Looks something like this-



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Old 10-23-2012, 01:09 AM   #144
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I used this extra or set to remove broken VCG bolts from my cousins E90 last year. Take your time when drilling... slow and steady wins this race! Good Luck!
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:45 AM   #145
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Originally Posted by pmagloir View Post
I would appreciate some advice: I just broke a stud on top of the VCG as my torque wrench was not properly calibrated. How can I take it off?
no need for an extractor, if you just broke the stud part in the cap nut.
Just remove the VC and use 10mm socket to remove the broken stud.

Buy a replacement stud and nut cap from the dealer if you are in a pinch.
A set will cost you almost $10 for a set.
Its not cheaper online too.

Been there done that.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:50 PM   #146
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Thank you all for your responses. As Tri indicated, I was able to remove the broken stud with a 10mm socket. I just got the stud from the dealership and I was wondering how tight it should be?
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Old 10-23-2012, 07:17 PM   #147
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10nm.. double check on page 1 of this thread..
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:23 PM   #148
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Did mine today. All went smooth. Spark plugs were sh*t.

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Old 10-26-2012, 10:39 PM   #149
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For those looking for the right sealant to use:

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...t_Dressing.htm

The manual calls for "3-bond 1209" but it appears its very hard to get anymore. Some BMW dealerships are using Hylomar Universal Blue instead. I have yet to see an official document from BMW on this though.

Hylomar was bought by Permatex.

The product descriptions for Permatex Ultra Rubber Gasket Sealant (#85409) is nearly identical to Hylomar Universal Blue.

Additionally it is specifically for sealing rubber gaskets and keeping that rubber soft and pliable. Our valve cover gaskets are rubber.

In my opinion, using the Permatex 85409 is the best solution here to ensure long seal life and lowest chance of leaks.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:17 AM   #150
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There certainly are choices for the sealer used. I used Permatex Ultra Copper, following the Beisan Systems procedure, as I was doing the vanos at the same time. It's done fine for the past 17K miles.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:33 AM   #151
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Thank you OP for the excellent step-by-step directions. Unfortunately, after changing the VCG, I noted that the red oil light is flashing intermittently when I am driving at low RPMs or at a stop light. I checked to see if there were any leaks and I do not see any. Oil level is fine. Does anyone have any suggestions regarding this issue?
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Old 10-27-2012, 01:09 PM   #152
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Red oil lamp means low oil pressure. Perhaps that sensor coincidentally is failing?
Part #12 below, list $12 BMW, discounting dealer ~$9.

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Old 10-28-2012, 06:46 PM   #153
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Hi, great thread! I have a question though about the torque! 10 nm - what exactly does that mean... or actually, without even getting into technical details, how would I know that I tightened the valve cover properly?
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:24 PM   #154
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You would use a torque wrench to show when you've reached 10nm. Newton meters (nm) is a measure of torque, just like foot lbs or inch lbs. Torque wrenches can come with a dial (mechanical or electronic) or just click when you hit the value you set.


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Old 10-29-2012, 05:01 AM   #155
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Torque is a measurement of force, or in this case how tight the nuts/bolts are. For the valve cover it is important to have uniform torque.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:18 AM   #156
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permatex

Quote:
Originally Posted by rkneeshaw View Post
For those looking for the right sealant to use:

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...t_Dressing.htm

The manual calls for "3-bond 1209" but it appears its very hard to get anymore. Some BMW dealerships are using Hylomar Universal Blue instead. I have yet to see an official document from BMW on this though.

Hylomar was bought by Permatex.

The product descriptions for Permatex Ultra Rubber Gasket Sealant (#85409) is nearly identical to Hylomar Universal Blue.

Additionally it is specifically for sealing rubber gaskets and keeping that rubber soft and pliable. Our valve cover gaskets are rubber.

In my opinion, using the Permatex 85409 is the best solution here to ensure long seal life and lowest chance of leaks.
Oxygen sensor safe? Went through their MSDS and instructions but could not find any info.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:00 AM   #157
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Originally Posted by Sansho View Post
You would use a torque wrench to show when you've reached 10nm. Newton meters (nm) is a measure of torque, just like foot lbs or inch lbs. Torque wrenches can come with a dial (mechanical or electronic) or just click when you hit the value you set.


Damn, I didn't even know such exist lol I wonder how much they are... gotta do my research! Thanks!
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:01 PM   #158
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First off thanks to the OP... DIY's are such a huge help and wow he sure did take his time with the write up.. awesome

ON ANOTHER NOTE SPEAKING FROM EXPERIENCE

1 - Follow the proper tq specs
2 - Use proper technique in tightening VC bolts

Why am I saying this? Well I replaced my gasket about 2 years/20k miles ago. And the famous smell thru the cabin vents has returned. I need to replace the valve cover gasket once again (slight leak in rear and in front)

I didn't follow proper tq specs and I didn't tighten bolts, starting in the center, in a criss cross/star like pattern.

So don't be like me and inconvenience yourself.

Do it right the first time!
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Old 11-13-2012, 12:06 PM   #159
farukh
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Originally Posted by Rumplemenz View Post
First off thanks to the OP... DIY's are such a huge help and wow he sure did take his time with the write up.. awesome

ON ANOTHER NOTE SPEAKING FROM EXPERIENCE

1 - Follow the proper tq specs
2 - Use proper technique in tightening VC bolts

Why am I saying this? Well I replaced my gasket about 2 years/20k miles ago. And the famous smell thru the cabin vents has returned. I need to replace the valve cover gasket once again (slight leak in rear and in front)

I didn't follow proper tq specs and I didn't tighten bolts, starting in the center, in a criss cross/star like pattern.

So don't be like me and inconvenience yourself.

Do it right the first time!
+1
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:07 PM   #160
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BMW in N.J is quoting me for the VCG for $600.00!!!! I'll try to check Bimmer Clinic near Avanel...
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