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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 08-19-2013, 02:49 PM   #41
dedekind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sansho View Post
It doesn't hurt to check realoem.com on part numbers. The oil filter is 11427512300, as you indicated.
yeah, this is just in case some other noob like me reads this and goes directly to the dealer with the part # posted, not even telling them the model/year of the car
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Old 08-21-2013, 10:53 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by dedekind View Post
yeah, this is just in case some other noob like me reads this and goes directly to the dealer with the part # posted, not even telling them the model/year of the car
You wont make that mistake again

Gotta be careful on this forum since there are many DIY proclamations but there are a lot of slightly different models on here.....and everyone is talking about THEIR MODEL obviously

FWIW I got Mann filters from Amazon and they were like $6 bucks each. Next time you have an order for Amazon, just pick up a couple with free shipping and throw them on your shelf. The Manns are 100% the same as the BMW and get great reviews.
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:26 PM   #43
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Walmart usually has the Fram brand for about the same price if you need one in a rush. They also include the O-rings and crush washer.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:59 PM   #44
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Good writeup. For mine, after step #2 I had to push the left button 3 times in rapid succession for it to reset the service light. Now it says 25,000 Service. BMW really recommends this duration? I'm sure I'll do mine every 5k like everything else I own
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:12 PM   #45
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Finally found it.

Ignore this post

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Old 10-10-2013, 02:55 PM   #46
PosingOwl
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Re: BMW E46 3-Series DIY: Oil Change

Nvm found it

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Old 10-10-2013, 03:29 PM   #47
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Since I always change oil from the top using an oil pump, I would assume it is the standard direction to loosen, but I am not going to comment since I have not done it using the plug. Why not get a oil pump--much easier and safer, no need to get dirty under the car, not need to open the wrong plug.
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:24 PM   #48
PosingOwl
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Re: BMW E46 3-Series DIY: Oil Change

I thought about that and I might buy one now.... I accidentally loosened the transfer case lug and some fluid got out. Took it to a shop to check how much and they said there was none in it

Now I need to find a transfer case fluid around here. What happenes if you drive on it like that. How much can you drive. Went to 3 stores and they all told me I had to call bmw to get it.

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Old 11-03-2013, 04:30 PM   #49
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Question Help!

Great article. But I just realized that I did NOT include the crush washer when I replaced the drain bolt whe I did the oil change YESTERDAY. I only have the brass washer on the bolt. Will I be ok between changes OR do I NEED TO get the crus washer on there???
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Old 11-03-2013, 04:35 PM   #50
jayb328i
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There is a reason why BMW included a crash washer to be inserted, If it was not important they would not have provided it.
If it was my car, I would not risk driving, knowing that the oil drain plug is not secured properly, and if it leaks the engine will fail.
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Old 11-09-2013, 08:18 PM   #51
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Just a couple of suggestions. There is a small O-Ring at the bottom of the stem on your oil filter cap (shown in your picture), on my 2001 325i there are two(2). The Bentley manual calls for changing it(them) every time you change your oil. I am an intermittent DIYer, if I have time to change my own oil, I do it, if not,I pay to have it done. I am sure my O-Rings they haven't been changed during my last 4 oil changes, as I paid someone else to do it and those tiny @#%****S are $7.51 each at the dealer. I bought them and changed my oil today, they don't come in the filter kit, but they should, only the large O-ring was included in mine. I haven't checked BavAuto or elsewhere yet, but I will. The old ones on mine were quite brittle and discolored.

I change my oil from underneath the car. I use a magnetic oil plug, checking for metal shavings on the plug, or gunk build up in the bottom of a pan is just a precautionary measure, it's overkill, until you actually do find shavings and nip a problem in the bud before catastrophic engine failure. I will, and have used a pump, I just don't make a habit of it. I also like looking around underneath to make sure everything looks right. I did find a worn out rubber bushing on the right control arm this afternoon.
It's a lot cheaper on these cars to catch an issue early, and some of them can only be found from underneath. My car is 13 years old, it wasn't designed to last this long, plastic and rubber parts get get brittle and crack. Replacing them before they blow out will save money in the long run.
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:43 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by 123Shift View Post
I can't see how the viscosity really makes that much of a difference, 5W-30 falls within the range of 0W-40. 0-40 just gives you a greater range of weights. But I guess it can't hurt to switch. 5W-30 was just convenient because they sell that weight at my local Costco. Thanks Sansho.
The viscosity doesn't make the difference - M1 0W-40 uses a superior base stock when compared to the other M1 weights sold in the USA. If they were all created from equivalent base stocks, then they would all be approved, but in this case, just the one weight is made from the right stuff.
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:28 AM   #53
zxxzvzxcbxzcbzxc
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Thank you, I'm going to bookmark this DIY.
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:52 AM   #54
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Great post joeycannoli, I did oil change for the first time in my 2003 E46 325i. The tools list was very helpful along with the picture.
The only difference in my model was I do not have to open the belly pan and was able to reach the drain plug via a opening behind the belly pan.
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Old 05-31-2014, 10:56 AM   #55
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:55 PM   #56
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Wink Skipped the first thing!

There is still one more thing missing in the writeup. You really want to get rid of all the debris and dirt, that has accumulated in your oil pan and elsewhere inside the oil system, right?

Get everything ready for the oil change, but before changing the oil, follow these steps:

1) get the car started, go for at least a 7 mile ride

2) get it warmed up and then give it some...

Driving the car a bit harder (ringing out the gears a little) will disperse whatever has sedimented inside your oil system/engine.

Immediately after returning to your garage with the warmed-up engine, approach the first steps of draining the oil. This will ensure that the warm oil, with all the metal pieces, residue and dirt perfectly dispersed in it, will flow out of your engine leaving it pretty damn clean for the new oil.

Just be careful not to get burned when removing the drain plug. Good pair of doubled rubber gloves is advisable.
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:48 PM   #57
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