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Old 11-30-2011, 11:12 PM   #1
Killabeast
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P1347-Cylinder 3 Misfire with fuel cut off Help!

Started about a month ago at about 75% throttle the car would suddenly lose most power and if stopped would shake. It did this just about every day for a week before I replaced the ignition coil thinking that was the problem. The new ignition coil seemed to do the trick as the car was back to running perfectly for a few weeks up until last night.

Driving home from work, barely putting any throttle into it, it misfired and the SES light came back on. Thinking I lost another Ignition coil I wasn't too concerned until I put the code reader on it and got the same cylinder 3 misfire!

Now I have swapped coils and spark plugs around but cylinder 3 is always the trouble. Unlike most people on the forum that had this problem, my misfire never goes away with a restart or code erase. Also, every thread I read about this code just ends with no one ever figuring it out. Tomorrow I'm going to swap injectors around but beside that I'm out of ideas. The car is running on just 5 cylinders and has very little power and is no fun to drive like this! Please any help would be great!!
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Old 12-01-2011, 11:06 AM   #2
Killabeast
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Come on this is a pretty common problem, someone must know something!
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:29 PM   #3
Killabeast
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Well since no one will help me I'll just post what I've done to maybe help someone else in the future...

So the code that consistently comes up is P1347: Cylinder 3 Misfire with fuel cutoff. Happened a few times by itself shutting down one cylinder making the car lose most power for a few minutes and then boom the check engine light goes away and all is wonderful again. One day it happened but instead of going away, it stuck. To troubleshoot this I have..

1-Swapped Ignition coils - no effect

2-Swapped Fuel injectors - no effect

3-Tested Ignition coil on cylinder no. 3 - Have spark

4-Tried to test power at fuel injector - Seems to be working (also number 3 spark plug was sort of wet indicating fuel is being fed to that cylinder)

Tomorrow I am going to give it a compression test because if you have fuel and spark, compression is the last piece of the puzzle to get ignition.
I seriously doubt its going to be compression though because of the way the symptoms happened 4 or 5 times and then went away in a matter of minutes before finally staying.

As always, any help or ideas would be appreciated!
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:57 PM   #4
Killabeast
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Problem found. No compression. looks like a exhaust valve is stuck open, broken or missing.

Tested by first doing a compression test, 30psi tops. Next I pulled the valve cover to see if there was any visual damage, everything looks normal. Next I turned the motor over until the number 3 piston was at top dead center with both the intake and exhaust valves closed then used a long rubber tipped air chuck and sprayed air through the spark plug hole. Instead of compressing as it should, it blew straight out the exhaust. Tested the theory on another known to be working cylinder and it immediately pressured up and tried spinning the motor.

Looks like a big bill from the shop is in my future. Sucks, the car is going to be paid for in 2 months and then I was going to sell it...

Hopefully this will help someone with troubleshooting this code as all I thought it was is some stupid thing but instead its a major problem.
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:07 PM   #5
JimC-NH
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Good job tracking it down. This is very good info.
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:16 PM   #6
E46Moonlight
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Damn I've been having the same symptoms! Good info here thanks!
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:39 PM   #7
Killabeast
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hopefully you guys have better luck then me and it turns out to be something else. I still don't understand why my motor would run fine, start missing out of nowhere, fix itself and run fine again and then after a few weeks of flawless running just up and kill itself..... Anyway I'm glad I could help someone.
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:51 PM   #8
Killabeast
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Just to update. I ended up doing this fix myself. I figured for the amount of money it was going to cost to have someone else do this, I could do it myself, save a lot of money and learn something along the way. Anyway, I found my problem. Piece of the valve is gone! Don't know what caused it either but it might not be too tough of a fix.
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Old 12-30-2011, 12:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killabeast View Post
Just to update. I ended up doing this fix myself. I figured for the amount of money it was going to cost to have someone else do this, I could do it myself, save a lot of money and learn something along the way. Anyway, I found my problem. Piece of the valve is gone! Don't know what caused it either but it might not be too tough of a fix.
Great job tracking down the problem and sharing the info.
How is the progress of repairing?
Do you have all special tools for head job?
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:37 AM   #10
Killabeast
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I have the head back together. Bought a few new valves and reground in all the old ones. I know its not the recommended or correct way of doing it but I'm not spending a whole lot of money on this car when I was originally planning on selling anyway. I already spent 400 bucks for all the timing tools and another 400 for parts. I finally got all the white crap off by using the sandblaster at work and spraying just the flat part of the valve because the sand actually tries to eat the metal itself.

My helper and I started to drop the head back on to the motor today until we moved just a little wrong and snap....the crap plastic lower chain guide tensioner snapped.....which means taking the whole front of the motor apart...
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Old 01-11-2012, 03:27 AM   #11
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How much were you looking at for a shop to do the work. I'm having the same problems with mine but I'm not going into the engine on my own, going to my amazing Indy tomorrow.
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Old 01-11-2012, 10:32 AM   #12
Killabeast
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Not sure, never checked. I knew it was going to be a lot though just looking on the forums for head gasket replacement charges which some people said was over 2 grand.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:07 PM   #13
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Finally progress! Got the tools yesterday to pull the crank pully off so i was able to pull the timing chain cover off. A note on that, Everyone says you MUST pull the oil pan in order to pull the chain cover off, FALSE! I did it just fine. You have to pull the front 4 bolts out of the oil pan that are very accessible and easy to pull out but that's it! Once everything was done, i put a very thin coat of silicon on the bottom of the chain cover to help it reseal with the oil pan and I think it'll be fine.

So I put the new chain guides in, replaced the leaking front main seal (that was making a very nasty oily mess on everything) and reassembled and sealed up the whole chain case.

Next, me and a helper got the head on without breaking anything this time Then I torqued down the head bolts and started on the cam timing. I think Ive got it timed right but I'm not 100% sure so I'll be rechecking it Tuesday when I'm back at work with my car. I'm hoping to have the car done sometime next week after over a month of it sitting dead in a garage at my work. Ive been driving my old 84 Chevy half ton so I can't wait to get back in my little zippy car

So far, this whole job has cost me a total of about 1100 bucks doing everything myself. 700 in just tools alone and 400 in all the parts I needed. Now pictures!
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:19 PM   #14
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OMG! damm... a hell of a job.... hopefully only with CI model and not Xi... 2003

Good luck! hopefully u got the timing right .....
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:17 PM   #15
Killabeast
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Well nearly 2 months and 1,300 bucks later I finally finished the car. I fired it up for the first time a few days ago and have been driving it since. She runs sooooo silky smooth now. It used to have a slight miss that you could feel in the car at idle but now you can hardly even tell if the motor is running! That valve or just the leakage of 140,000 miles on all the others must have slowly deteriorated and reduced efficiency. So far I couldn't be happier. I have been checking the oil and coolant every day to make sure I have no coolant in the oil or any other kind of leaks and so far so good! If anyone has questions or anything regarding the removal or rebuild of the top end, feel free to ask and I'll help anyway I can!
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:24 PM   #16
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Nice job!
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:27 PM   #17
Killabeast
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First test drive at work out in the frigid -25F Alaskan air

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Old 02-02-2012, 10:28 PM   #18
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Great job! Must feel good to have finished a job like that.
BTW, are you in Anchorage? That's where I am from.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:44 PM   #19
Killabeast
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Great job! Must feel good to have finished a job like that.
BTW, are you in Anchorage? That's where I am from.
DUDE!!! That is awesome! I haven't seen another Alaskan on here yet!
But no, I'm in Fairbanks. I used to live in Anchorage though haha. I'll be heading down there this spring as I start the search for a decent M3 in state before I look down in the lower 48.
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Old 02-03-2012, 01:51 AM   #20
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I already spent 400 bucks for all the timing tools
If you had googled "VANOS timing tool" you should had seen my "vanos timing without special tools" post on the other forum and saved $$$. Sorry, and i just posted it here today.

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