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DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

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Old 09-27-2011, 02:54 PM   #1
Steve330ci
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DIY- Morimoto Bi-Xenon Headlight Installation

I wanted better lighting than the standard halogens on my 2003 325ci. After researching, I ordered the Morimoto D2S Bi-Xenon Kit and E46R shrouds from www.theretrofitsource.com. Price was $295.00. Ordered on 9-22-2011 and it arrived on 9-24-2011. I used xi_chee's DIY on the Morimoto Mini H1 install as a guide, so I did not post any photos duplicating that part of the install.

1. Disconnect the car battery and then remove and disconnect corner lights.

2. Disconnect high and low beam lights and remove headlights from the vehicle. There are many DIYs already posted for headlight removal. The hardest part is loosening the outboard side of the lower trim piece below the headlights. You need to use a very small flat blade screwdriver to push the plastic tab that secures this end of the lower trim.

3. If you are installing the D2S bulbs, they are larger in diameter than the H1 bulbs. So, I needed to enlarge the opening in the headlight housing. I assume if you are installing the H1s, you can skip the next step #3 and go to step #5.

4. Remove the round rubber weatherproofing from the low beam side. From the rear of the headlight housing, enlarge the current ~ 1 inch opening to ~ 1 and 5/16” using a Dremel. Carefully hold the threaded portion of the new projector housing next to the opening from time to time as you work on it to ensure it will fit through the enlarged opening. This step generates a significant amount of white dust.

5. To have access to connect the small black and red wires from the bi-xenon shutter on the new projector, drill a small hole through the reflector bowl just below the opening.

6. Slide the large white plastic washer on the threaded portion of the new projector. Insert the black and red wires through the opening in the front of the reflector bowl. Insert the projector through the reflector bowl. From the rear of the reflector bowl, insert the black rubber washer onto the threaded portion of the projector that protrudes through the reflector bowl. Use a small screw driver and push the rubber washer up as tight as possible.

7. Following your supplied instructions, carefully insert the D2S bulb into the opening in the threaded portion of the projector. There is a tab on the bulb to ensure the proper fitment. Carefully use the remaining washers and lock nuts as supplied with your kit to tighten the D2S bulb in the threaded portion of the reflector. Re-install rubber weatherproofing.

8. From the front of the projector, I attached a black plastic shroud that slides onto each projector housing. Although I ordered the E46R shrouds, there was absolutely no way to attach the clips on the E46R shrouds. The E46R shroud clips did not match up with the holes on the black plastic shroud. Evidently, some other people have just glued the E46 shrouds to the reflector bowl, but I did not want to do that.

9. The Morimoto wiring harness has five (5) leads. To connect the + lead, remove the black plastic cover on the battery connection on the right rear side of the engine bay. Using snips, cut away a small portion of the cover. Loosen and remove the nut that secures the vehicle’s + wire from the terminal, connect the + lead from the wiring harness to the terminal, re-connect the vehicle’s + wire, tighten the nut, and attach the plastic cover.



10. To attach the ground, loosen and remove the nut from the vehicle’s ground connection at the driver’s side of the firewall, remove the vehicle’s ground wire, connect the ground lead from the wiring harness, re-connect the vehicle’s ground wire, and reattach the nut.



11. I routed the + lead in front the cabin air filter housing. This photo was taken before all the wiring is tucked away.



12. To attach the Morimoto relay, I used the stud that I also used to secure the heat shield for the K&N cold air intake. Loosen the nut, attach the relay to the stud, and reattach the nut. The next photo shows the five leads coming from the relay.



13. Route the lead from the relay to the right side ballast. This can vary depending on where you have mounted the relay. I routed the lead behind the CAI and over to the area in front of the windshield washer fluid tank.

14. Route the leads from the relay to the left ballast and the left low beam connector. The low beam connection lead snaps into the vehicle’s low beam headlight connector.

15. Connect the left and right ballast leads to the left and right ballasts. I placed the right ballast down below the right headlight mounting bracket. I placed the left ballast below the CAI.



16. The bi-xenon shutters are powered by the high beam lights. However, the black and red wires coming from the projectors are not long enough to splice into the high beam’s + (white with stripe) and - (brown) wires. So, you need to splice a 6-8” extension wire into the left and right high beams’ + and - wires.



17. Put the headlights back into the vehicle. Connect the round bulb connector to the rear of each D2S bulb. Connect the red and black wires coming from the projectors to the two extension wires that are spliced into the high beam’s + and - wires.

18. Reconnect vehicle battery. Insert key and turn to position 2. Turn on headlight switch. The D2S bulbs will power-up. Flip the left turn signal stalk and the high-beam lights as well as the bi-xenons will power-up. Turn headlights and ignition off.

19. Start the vehicle. Turn headlights on. If the D2S bulbs power-up but flicker and you have two front bulb-out warning lights, you will need to take the vehicle to your Indy shop (or Stealer) to get the LCM reflashed to enable the LCM to recognize the "Xenon Retrofit." After the LCM reflash, the lights will not flicker anymore, but you will still get a right-side bulb-out warning light. This is because the right side low beam connection is not attached to anything. Recall, the Morimoto wiring harness only connects to one low beam connection, not both. If you have a pre-facelift vehicle, you can pull fuse #32 from the fusebox and the bulb-out light will go away. Apparently, fuse #32 powers the “bulb-out” testing function.

20. If, after you have tested the lights and everything works, re-connect the headlights to the vehicle and re-install the corner lights.

21. Carefully check all electrical connections and properly wrap all loose wiring. Note, some of these photos were taken before the wiring has been properly wrapped and tucked away. Ensure all leads from the relay are properly and safely routed.

22. The next photo shows the front of the projector standing outside the car. You can see the black plastic shroud. You can also see a small reflection of the black and red wires going from the projectors.



23. Wait for dark and, following one of the many other posted DIYs, adjust
your new lights. Be careful with the headlight adjuster knobs, as they can break off.

24. Enjoy your lights.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:06 PM   #2
Shimmy23
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Are you going to finish it off with a shroud? Please tell me yes...
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Old 09-28-2011, 02:43 PM   #3
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I hope so as well. I think he just forgot to include a picture of it.

Steve, I am going to be trying the method I PMd you for "bulb-out" this weekend. If it works, then you will not have to pull fuse #32, so it could work for facelifts.
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Old 09-28-2011, 03:46 PM   #4
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Relax guys... shrouds are installed. Did require some more Dremelling, though.

a325h, my bulb out light came back on, so the Fuse #32 idea did not pan out. Am also thinking about connecting both L and R low beam connections to the low beam connection on the wiring harness.
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve330ci View Post
Relax guys... shrouds are installed. Did require some more Dremelling, though.

a325h, my bulb out light came back on, so the Fuse #32 idea did not pan out. Am also thinking about connecting both L and R low beam connections to the low beam connection on the wiring harness.
I can see the unplugged OEM headlight socket will cause a bulb out warning. Did you ever figure out a way to connect it or otherwise get rid of the bulb out warning?
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:40 PM   #6
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I can see the unplugged OEM headlight socket will cause a bulb out warning. Did you ever figure out a way to connect it or otherwise get rid of the bulb out warning?
I opted out using the relay harness and im having no problems connecting the ballast directly to the stock harness...no bulb out warnings or flickering. I'm using the morimoto 3five ballast btw. I'm pretty sure you only need the relay harness if you're going to use 55w ballasts because the stock harness might not be able to handle the large inrush current the 55w ballast demands.
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Old 12-03-2011, 10:48 PM   #7
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just leave your high beams plugged in and tap the wires for bi-xenon into those. with that your halogen high beams and bi-xenon high beams come on at the same time.
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Old 12-04-2011, 07:16 AM   #8
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Thats what this guide is for Dannyboy. I have another guide for the same thing in the DIY HID headlight thread for more reference if needed.

Steve, I ran by the TRS shop and they gave me some different relays for my car. Works much better for me. It was 2 individual sets of wires. It got rid of all my flickering and the bulb out.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...roducts_id=238

Now if I could just get my damned passenger side light to return to the full up position to stop messing with my cutoff line.
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Old 12-04-2011, 08:56 AM   #9
Steve330ci
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To get rid of the "Bulb Out" message for the unconnected right-side low beam, I bought a 9006 connector and resistor, soldered extensions to the + and neg wires from the 9006 connector, connected the resistor to the extended wires, mounted the resistor in the drug bin, and plugged the new 9006 connector to the car's low beam connection.

I could have bought a set of bulb out cancelers, but I like the DIY solutions.
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