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Old 12-09-2011, 09:31 AM   #1
Jmarlowe330i
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Car vibration while in gear and stationary....It might be...

While in gear of D or R with brake applied the entire car shakes or vibrates. Seems to be coming from the back right side of the motor or between the tranny and bell housing.

Question Could this be the torque converter, flex plate, or just tranny all together.

I've looked over all mounts and they look fine, will probably still replace them all.

Is there anyway to figure out exactly what is wrong without taking the tranny off first.

Am going to check fluid level tonight in tranny.
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Old 12-09-2011, 03:28 PM   #2
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:59 PM   #3
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It might be coil.
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Old 12-09-2011, 07:07 PM   #4
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engine mounts.
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:21 PM   #5
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Me Too!!! Help!

Hi all - came across this thread as I have similar problem. My car has had several trips to the local indy in past 4 months. Had oil filter housing gasket changed among other things. CURRENTLY is throwing CEL intermittently for insufficient secondary airflow on startup, both banks. Had the air pump and valve replaced and CEL came on again. May be the hose. Sux that this is all for a system that turns on to 2 minutes max!

Anyway, as part of these updates the indy reprogrammed the ECU and TCU to "current" part numbers. My '02 had never gotten a programming update. Result? MUCH BETTER in terms of smooth driving, less clunking.

BUT - now I have this same problem as described here. At stoplight, when in D or R, engine is idling around 550 and results in a noticeable vibration. Shift to P or N and it goes away. It didnt do this before the reprogram I don't think. Its as if the Steptronic is grabbing and dragging down the engine. If you give it a little gas while in D with the brake it will go away.

I worry that it is a transmission thing, but other posts here or on bimmerfest talk about MAF, leak in air intake hose, etc, etc. I can live with it but would like to fix. I am worried that I am "chewing up" the transmission with this. Could it be an idle setting that needs to be tweaked higher?

Help?
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogan773 View Post
Hi all - came across this thread as I have similar problem. My car has had several trips to the local indy in past 4 months. Had oil filter housing gasket changed among other things. CURRENTLY is throwing CEL intermittently for insufficient secondary airflow on startup, both banks. Had the air pump and valve replaced and CEL came on again. May be the hose. Sux that this is all for a system that turns on to 2 minutes max!

Anyway, as part of these updates the indy reprogrammed the ECU and TCU to "current" part numbers. My '02 had never gotten a programming update. Result? MUCH BETTER in terms of smooth driving, less clunking.

BUT - now I have this same problem as described here. At stoplight, when in D or R, engine is idling around 550 and results in a noticeable vibration. Shift to P or N and it goes away. It didnt do this before the reprogram I don't think. Its as if the Steptronic is grabbing and dragging down the engine. If you give it a little gas while in D with the brake it will go away.

I worry that it is a transmission thing, but other posts here or on bimmerfest talk about MAF, leak in air intake hose, etc, etc. I can live with it but would like to fix. I am worried that I am "chewing up" the transmission with this. Could it be an idle setting that needs to be tweaked higher?

Help?
it's pretty hopeless issue with the XI's. solutions have been tried and failed everything from replacing the TQ, front drive shafts, driveline guibos. Most recently a XI mechanic on this form decided to get to the bottom of it with his own car and found the steering column guibo was the issue and replaced his and his customers XIs. Why it does it? I don't know, even he doesnt know and he spoke to BMW directly. Either way, replacing that thing only to have the vibrtation come back up at 15k miles doesn't seem worth it. I would just live with it and pawn it off the first chance you get. One reason I bought a back BMW (my e30) just in case.
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Old 12-28-2011, 06:16 PM   #7
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it's pretty hopeless issue with the XI's. solutions have been tried and failed everything from replacing the TQ, front drive shafts, driveline guibos. Most recently a XI mechanic on this form decided to get to the bottom of it with his own car and found the steering column guibo was the issue and replaced his and his customers XIs. Why it does it? I don't know, even he doesnt know and he spoke to BMW directly. Either way, replacing that thing only to have the vibrtation come back up at 15k miles doesn't seem worth it. I would just live with it and pawn it off the first chance you get. One reason I bought a back BMW (my e30) just in case.
I've been OK putting some money into my 2002 only because it has 65K miles and drives really nicely (and I don't love the newer 3 series enough to pay 40K for a new one). But is this vibration thing a nuisance or am I actually ruining anything by letting it continue? If a nuisance I guess I can deal.

The thing I find weird is that it seems to have just come up now that the indy "updated" all my car software. Like re-flashing software and now some setting is different either with the idle or the transmission. I guess it could be some other mechanical thing too and it is just coincidence that it is popping now.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:05 PM   #8
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My 02 330i also exhibits the same symptoms, and I have no idea what is causing it.
For now, I minimize the shaking by putting it into R or D right before I'm ready to take off.

The weird thing is that it only happens during cold starts, while in stop-n-go traffic it acts fine.

It'd be great if you end up finding out what the issue is and update the thread.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:13 PM   #9
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I've also noticed a slight vibration when in drive or reverse and not moving. As soon as I take my foot off the brake... It goes away.

I'm planning on replacing my motor mounts in the spring.
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Old 12-28-2011, 09:16 PM   #10
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Engine mounts
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Old 12-28-2011, 11:38 PM   #11
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if engine mounts, why only when at a stoplight on brakes? if you shift to neutral or park it immediately becomes smooth as butter. As soon as you go back to D then it shudders again.
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Old 12-28-2011, 11:41 PM   #12
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if engine mounts, why only when at a stoplight on brakes? if you shift to neutral or park it immediately becomes smooth as butter. As soon as you go back to D then it shudders again.
because when in D or R, the torque of the engine is putting force on the mounts. if they are bad, they would collapse and send the vibration thru the chassis to the car.
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Old 12-28-2011, 11:43 PM   #13
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Can it be diagnosed upon visual inspection?
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:32 AM   #14
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because when in D or R, the torque of the engine is putting force on the mounts. if they are bad, they would collapse and send the vibration thru the chassis to the car.
Ok but why is it then perfectly smooth while driving. Why is it perfectly smooth even if you press throttle with brake depressed at stoplight to get revs up a little? is there a setting that controls how much the auto trans "grabs" while stopped and brake depressed? the vibration even gets better when you let off the brakes at the stoplight.
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Old 12-29-2011, 07:56 AM   #15
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Everything described in this thread points to worn engine mounts. I have the same issue: When my '02 330cic is first started in the morning with the brake depressed and the car in D or R, there is a vibration/chatter that comes up through the steering column. After I've driven for a while and the engine has heated up, there's no such vibration when I'm stopped at a light, etc. I assume that after the engine heats up, the mounts/frame expand enough to dampen the vibration. Last time I had the car to my mechanic, he told me that it was the mounts (a common issue) and I'll have them replaced the next time I take the car in.
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:56 AM   #16
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Everything described in this thread points to worn engine mounts. I have the same issue: When my '02 330cic is first started in the morning with the brake depressed and the car in D or R, there is a vibration/chatter that comes up through the steering column. After I've driven for a while and the engine has heated up, there's no such vibration when I'm stopped at a light, etc. I assume that after the engine heats up, the mounts/frame expand enough to dampen the vibration. Last time I had the car to my mechanic, he told me that it was the mounts (a common issue) and I'll have them replaced the next time I take the car in.
Hmmm interesting. I guess it could be that now that it is wintertime, my engine mounts are always "cold" and therefore the stoplight problem never goes away. Because mine is the same all the time. Still don't understand why it only happens at idle but perhaps it is just that the idle at 550 is extra rough vs higher rpms and the engine mount can't handle it.

Is there a way to just set idle (in gear) a little higher? Again, the problem doesn't seem to be there when in Neutral or Park so perhaps when in gear, at idle, the extra torque is just dragging the engine down an extra 100 rpm or something and making it rough. I dunno.
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Old 12-29-2011, 08:59 AM   #17
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Ok but why is it then perfectly smooth while driving. Why is it perfectly smooth even if you press throttle with brake depressed at stoplight to get revs up a little? is there a setting that controls how much the auto trans "grabs" while stopped and brake depressed? the vibration even gets better when you let off the brakes at the stoplight.
because engine vibrates more at lower rpm, once your RPM is up, it vibrates less.
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Old 12-29-2011, 10:53 AM   #18
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in this case it's not the engine mounts or transmission mounts and replacing them would be costly and give you the placebo effect of "oh it helped with the vibrations a little". These mounts don't fail that fast unless you beat the car around corners a lot.

if it were the mounts, the easiest test for you is to hold down the brake and gas the car with the hood open. the torque of the engine should toss the engine up from the subframe and you would see it.

fear not, as people have driven 100K+ with this vibration issue and it doesn't seem to cause any long term issues. It's certainly a nuisance more than a harmonic problem

Don't bother raising the idle, it doesn't help (I've had dinan do this on my car when they installed a stage 3 ecu and it didn't help).

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Old 12-29-2011, 11:00 AM   #19
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Don't bother raising the idle, it doesn't help (I've had dinan do this on my car when they installed a stage 3 ecu and it didn't help).
when I drive mine, the engine would idle at 700rpm when its cold and the vibration is strong, like a massage.
once its all warmed up idling at 550rpm, it smooths out a lot.
inline 6's are not great for smoothness. V6's are better for that.
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Old 12-29-2011, 11:07 AM   #20
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when I drive mine, the engine would idle at 700rpm when its cold and the vibration is strong, like a massage.
once its all warmed up idling at 550rpm, it smooths out a lot.
inline 6's are not great for smoothness. V6's are better for that.
I would imagine that in the cold your idle has to be higher to warm up the cats. That extra vibration is due to the secondary air pump to facilitate this process. my car is like that in the morning at least up until warm up.

As far as inline 6's and smoothness goes, I'd have to respectfully disagree with your arguement. BMW chose inline 6's for a reason and they are the easiest to naturally balance due to their cylinder arrangement whereas v-cylinder arrangements require additional weights, balance shafts, mounts, and insulation to negate the harsh sounds and harmonics as a byproduct of their cycle
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