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DIY: Do It Yourself
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Old 07-14-2016, 05:42 PM   #1
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Ft Myers, FL
Posts: 347
My Ride: 2001 330CI
Male connector(s) for abs and brake wear sensors crumbled


Ours cars being older now these parts 10 years or older and plastic has become brittle due to wear/heat etc… will literally break apart or crumble in your hand as you try to separate them from the female ends. SEE PICS OF BROKEN ENDS

Problem: ABS wheel speed sensor and/or Brake pad wear sensor falls apart from the harness side of the wires. This is considered the male side of the connector(s) coming from the harness side.

I tried to get the exact part number from stealership but he had to put in a PUMA case to BMW because the part number is not listed separately in their system. From what I understand the PUMA case may take a few weeks as it goes up to BMW in the cloud to get the answer.

You can order the male connectors from your local stealership or as referenced by the thread that helped me, you can order them from ECStuning(thread below)…credit goes to HAWAIIANKONG (ALSO NOTE THE PRICES ARE A LITTLE HIGHER THAN WHAT YOU SEE PASTED BELOW FROM THE THREAD FOR REFERENCE)

info from thread below-

You're right. ECS does sell the harness side connector and pre-crimped pins with pigtail leads. For future reference, the part numbers are:
ABS Sensor Socket
- ECS PN 164858
- $6.02ea

Bushing Contact w/Wire Lead
- BMW PN 61130005199
- ECS PN 164039
- $2.75ea (2 needed)

Now before you go out and get the part number that ends in 2246 above because you need the male connector from the harness side; I suggest you do a little homework. I have put some pictures down below showing how the tabs align inside the holes so that you can’t mix up per say the ABS connector into the Brake pad wear sensor. This also becomes a problem based on what year your car is and what particular part number was on your vehicle. If you get lucky and can still see the part number on the side of the male connector reference pics below) this will greatly help you determine which correct part number to order. Typically you can go to REALOEM and put in your old part number and it will most likely show you the new part number that superseded it.

Example: My 2001 330CI ABS sensor socket (male side from harness) had the BMW number 1393754 (last 7 digits) with a date of 12/99 on it. ADD the numbers 61-13(identifies specific category where part comes from-can see this on REALOEM) in front of that number and you have the whole BMW part number of 61-13-1-393-754. Put this into REALOEM it is replaced by part# 61-13-1392-248. (pic reference I am using different number—using example of blue Brake sensor to see part number clear)

You will also see that the part numbers above are on quite a few different vehicles (models and years) in case you have to go to the junkyard like I did to find them. I have to admit there were a few at the junkyard that crumbled in my fingertips like mine did but I was fortunate enough to find some that withstood my finger pinch test. Had they not worked I would have ordered them from info above.

-typically grey is the ABS Wheel Speed sensor and black is the Brake Wear sensor (blue too)

Now whichever way you get the male connectors (junkyard, ECStuning, stealership) I took pictures of a few items to take note to for installment purposes. Those that are familiar with wiring etc… you already know this; but for those like me that is learning on the DIY this may be helpful tips:

-disconnect your ground wire from battery

-I had my jack, a jack-stand, and remove tire and put under the car for my safety (overkill but 3 prevents)

-take note to the inside of the connectors to make sure you connect/install the correct wire to the correct position. ABS has 1,2,3 positions and the Brake wear sensor has 1,2 –3 is there but not used and actually is built to prevent anything being stuck in there. Before you remove your male connector take not to the color of the wire with corresponding number slot. SEE PIC for some reference. Your vehicle may differ with color wired than mine. In one of the pics you will see the colors of the wire and the hole/number they slid into based on how the wiring was before I started removing/cutting stuff. Always good to take a few pictures before/during/after in case you run into problems along the way.

-I do not have solder gun so I used the heat shrink butts to connect the wires; melting the ends to help protect against elements and wrapped with silicone self-fusing tape which is protective against the elements and high temperature resistant

-The little bushing wire with lead, listed above as part#61-13-0-005-199 may be reused if not damaged. Just keep in mind it has a little barbed part almost like a hook to keep it from sliding out of the male connector slot. You have to push down with a needle like tool to then slide them out of the male connector. Before you do this you must remove the typically black piece that holds the bushing wires in their slot (SEE PIC for reference). These break very easy!!! It is shaped almost like a half “C” with a with a mini sword in the middle. I know…don’t know the technical name of it, but this sword like piece actually fits into the 3 slots to hold/secure the bushing wire leads into the male connector. Again see picture as you are laughing at my description!!!

-Also I found it easier to just cut off the 3 bushing wires and add the pigtails that I made from the parts I had on hand. If you decide to try and push the bushing wires into the holes and secure them etc… this way it would be longer and cramped. With the pigtails I made of the male end connectors I only had to strip the 3 wires (for the ABS) insert them into the pigtails, heat shrink them and wrap with silicone tape.

-I checked for continuity using my multimeter on the wires/connectors I got from the junkyard to make sure there were no breaks in the connections/wires before I doctored them up as you see in the pics of my pigtails with heat shrunk butts ready to install.

-Also keep the old wires so that you can reuse the rubber grommets that hold the sensor cable in place at the intervals designated/locations.

I have chronic back problems so this took me way longer (and many breaks) than it would have under normal conditions. If you have the pigtails ready to go like in the pic it would take easily under an hour to jack car up and cut the wires and splice/heat shrink/wrap and tuck wires to get this fixed.

Good luck, hopefully this helps someone like the thread above helped me get through this problem.

below in next post I added pics of the pigtails and finished job.

All the lights are gone from my dash!!!
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Old 07-14-2016, 05:46 PM   #2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Ft Myers, FL
Posts: 347
My Ride: 2001 330CI
More pics
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