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Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning

Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 12-29-2011, 09:40 AM   #1
E30m3ochoa
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Clutch problem!

Hi, I have a 2002 325Ci and I am frustrated in the fact that I get a clicking sound when I press my clutch. It hasn't been a year that I changed the clutch master cylinder so I don't know what could be the problem. Also, there are times where the 1st gear doesn't want to engage, any thoughts on that? Any kind of help is appreciated.
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Old 12-30-2011, 08:26 PM   #2
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Without any more information, my guess would be that your throwout bearing is going out. Do you hear any rattling when in neutral and the clutch isn't being pressed in?
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:20 PM   #3
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Are you referring to when the car is stopped or in motion but in neutral? Actually the only time I hear a rattle is when I am in reverse and press the clutch to put in neutral. It might not be only in that gear though. What other info would help you to rule some stuff out?
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Old 12-31-2011, 12:46 PM   #4
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Unless its the hydraulics (highly unlikely), you'll need to pull the tranny to find out for sure. But I am willing to bet that its the TOB which seems to be a trend on this board. Flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc are all good. TOB is screwed up.

My theory is that the factory apparently does not grease the TOB flange that presses against the pressure plate fingers and the shaft splines. So the TOB gets hotter and eventually fails prematurely.
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Old 12-31-2011, 07:37 PM   #5
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Yea, definitely sounds like a throw out bearing. Mine was doing something similar to yours. Ended up changing out the flywheel, clutch, and throwout bearing because it was just easier to do it all at once since dropping the trans is a pita.
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Old 01-01-2012, 04:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MadChemist View Post
Yea, definitely sounds like a throw out bearing. Mine was doing something similar to yours. Ended up changing out the flywheel, clutch, and throwout bearing because it was just easier to do it all at once since dropping the trans is a pita.
Oh I see, did you end up getting a kit or did you get them separate? Did you end up doing this yourself or took it to a shop?
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Old 01-01-2012, 05:05 PM   #7
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Used a kit. Did the job myself. Took around 15 hrs but I am very picky on how things are done. Also did a tranny and diff flush
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Old 01-02-2012, 10:07 AM   #8
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Oh ok, well that's good that you did the job yourself. In my case I wouldnt know how to go about it so I am going to have no option to take it somewhere. Plus I was thinking of replacing my clutch and flywheel. Did you upgrade it or went with a stocked one?
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:09 PM   #9
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Replacing the clutch flywheel and pressure plate is pretty simple. Just time consuming and takes lots of patience. I went with an ACT clutch, lite weight flywheel, and pressure plate. The kit also came with a throw out bearing and pilot bearing along with the centering tool. I went with ACT because of past experience in other performance vehicles. Everything set me back around 900. I also chose to do the rear main seal while I was there for a piece of mind. All in all, the performance of the clutch pressure plate and flywheel is amazing. I wanted to get rid of the oem because I am not a fan of the SAC. If you do go the oem route, I have a clutch that has about 6000 mi on it I could sell you for 50 bucks plus shipping. It's in pretty good condition. Hope this helps.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:34 PM   #10
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Where did you end up buying this because I was thinking of getting a stage 1 clutch and flywheel from eBay. I am not sure what brand it is but it goes for 500 if I am correct. What did you end up removing the tranny with? I would love to do the job myself but I might not have the tools and equipments to make it happen.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:52 PM   #11
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I got mine on ebay also:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACT-HD-STREE...item1e65ce9faf

I actually had access to a lift but originally was going to do it in my garage. To remove the tranny, there are 11 star bolts. Undo those with the tranny supported using a jack or even better a jack with a tranny mount. In terms of tools you'll need:

Torque Wrench
Multiple extensions for your 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet (total length needs to be around 24")
Star sockets (e10, e12, e14)
18 mm socket and wrench
10 mm socket and wrench
13 mm socket and wrench
3/4" socket
Breaker Bar
Allen sockets

Basic directions:
Remove exhaust
Remove drive shaft
Support tranny
Remove tranny cross brace
Undo shift linkage
Undo bell housing bolts
Remove tranny
Remove pressure plate
Remove clutch
Remove flywheel

Installation is the reverse. This is just a general idea of how things go. I might have left some things out. A lot of cussing occurred during the installation. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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Old 01-03-2012, 09:35 AM   #12
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Oh I see, that's a nice clutch kit. You say that it came with the bearings as well? How smooth do the gears go in? I kinda don't want to go with an oem clutch because that is what I have and I want to see how the performance clutches and flywheels differ. Wow, I think removing the tranny sounds a lot harder and it is at least in words. Do you have to do anything special when replacing the clutch and flywheel or bearings? I bet there was a lot of cussing going on while the work was being done, it's only normal.
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Old 01-03-2012, 11:47 AM   #13
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How smooth it goes into gears is really based on the gear box which isn't messed with when changing out the clutch. If you are having problems with your gear box, first change out the gear lube. I am using 75w-90 Amsoil. In terms of how well the clutch performs, it is a night and day change. It grabs quickly and firmly. My car seems to accelerate better and there is definitely no slipping at all. The hardest part about changing out the clutch is getting to the 11 star bolts. Nothing special is really required. Just take your time and don't cut corners. One tool you might need is a bearing puller for pilot bearing. The kit does come with: new flywheel, flywheel bolts, clutch, pressure plate, pressure plate bolts, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and the clutch alignment tool. I did have to use a pry bar to get the transmission to separate because of the throwout bearing being physically stuck to the pressure plate causing things to bind.
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:12 PM   #14
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So on a side note, would my gear box be messed up if the gears don't want to go in and if it feels like a clunks sometimes when the gears go in?
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:18 PM   #15
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Well, that could be caused by your throwout bearing because it isn't releasing properly. So when you do the clutch, I would also change the fluid in the gearbox. If that doesn't help then you might need to further investigate. Does the clunk sound like it is coming from the back? Like the rear diff? If so, you car is almost exactly like mine. Next weekend I am changing out the rear diff bushing. Mine is completely shot and is allowing the diff to move with the forces change on it.
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:03 PM   #16
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Oh ok, I guess I will do that when I change it. About the clunk, I am not really sure where it's from. Is there a way to check if your rear diff is shot that way I can check it out and see if it's that?
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:43 PM   #17
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The easiest way to find out if it is the rear diff bushing is to first locate the diff and then have someone shift through the gears/press in the clutch. Just be careful not to get run over. If the bushing is bad, you'll see the diff move. Mine is so that bad I can almost see daylight through it. Lots of crack are present in the rear diff bushing. The bushing is located directly behind the diff and is attached to the diff carrier.
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:37 PM   #18
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So you have to have someone drive the car slowly and me being under enough to see it? I have to clarify this. I don't know what it Looks like but I'll figure it out
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Old 01-03-2012, 04:42 PM   #19
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Not exactly. Pretty much, create a load on the drivetrain and then press in the clutch. Pressing in the clutch will release that load causing the diff to drop, if your rear diff bushing is bad. Here is a link talking about it.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=668682
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Old 01-04-2012, 09:57 AM   #20
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I assume I have to rev the engine in neutral and then press the clutch to see if it moves? Does your car make the clunk sound every time you shift or press the clutch? Reason why is because mine only does it when the gear doesn't go in to smoothly and it kinda pulls the car a little.
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