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Old 02-17-2012, 11:31 PM   #201
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good nite1
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Old 02-18-2012, 04:30 PM   #202
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18FEB Update: The majority of the maintenance parts for the 2002 325i came in. I think I am going to remove the engine on the 325i (blown head gasket) first and fix everything before I will work on my 323.
I haven't hooked up the 325i to the GT1 since the battery is dead and beside it is freakin cold outside. I tried charging the battery but it refused to hold a charge too. I need to go to Autozone later today and pick up a 49-DL battery.

Also, I am going to convert my car to a facelift front and deconvert the 325i to a pre-facelift.

on to the pix:

maintenance support package for the 325i. I have to order suspension pieces later. I already inspected the car for any rear subframe damages and found none



Bought a pair of BRAND NEW AL bi-xenon headlights. I am excited about doing the facelift conversion



I replaced the crankshaft sensor and noticed that there are a lot of dried up oil residue. these residue is very similiar to the one I found on my engine coolant pipes



I cleaned up the hole with a bit of brake cleaner and everything looks new again



I then switch over to the exhaust camshaft sensor and replaced that too. The old sensor will be used as spare parts.


Last edited by flashmeow; 02-18-2012 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 02-18-2012, 04:34 PM   #203
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Before I can install the electronic controlled thermostat I needed to clean the mating surface



again a little of brake cleaner works like magic

The thermostat fasterns needed some cleaning too so I soaked it brake cleaner for a 5-10 mins



Here is a picture of the mating surface after it is cleaned



Thermostat installed and torqued to spec

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Old 02-18-2012, 04:38 PM   #204
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Next I decided to tackle the hydraulic tensioner.


Make sure you use a T50 torx bit for the idle pullies



I repacked the bad boy with some grease (as recommended by //newm3fan) and installed it (sorry no pix)


Torqu spec is 18fts for the hydraulic tensior an 33ft/lbs for the idle pullies

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Old 02-18-2012, 05:04 PM   #205
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Ok, now this might sound crazy and confirm your suspision about my short term memory. But why don't you just fix the facelifted car with the 330 engine and keep that instead of your old one?
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:14 PM   #206
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Ok, now this might sound crazy and confirm your suspision about my short term memory. But why don't you just fix the facelifted car with the 330 engine and keep that instead of your old one?
how dare you and how could you suggest such a thing. my 323 is my first love and I would never betrayed it like that. men are so disloyal!
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Old 02-18-2012, 05:31 PM   #207
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how dare you and how could you suggest such a thing. my 323 is my first love and I would never betrayed it like that. men are so disloyal!
Heh, I knew it was gonna be something like that
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Old 02-19-2012, 05:42 AM   #208
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nice updates
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:46 AM   #209
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any new updates?
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:26 PM   #210
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any new updates?
yes. I am almost finishe disassembling the 2002 325i. I am doing this first to learn as much as I can on how to remove the engine before I can drop in the ZHP engine into my beloved 2000 323i.

The 2002 325i is almost done. All I need to do is disconnect the driveshaft, remove the tranny support, misc tranny wires/cables/fluid lines and engine support. I will then be able to connect the cherry picker and remove the blown engine + tranny from the 325i. I have pictures of the current process but haven't posted them yet. Later this week I will post pictures.

this picture is outdated. the intake manifold and hood are actually removed.





Last edited by flashmeow; 03-05-2012 at 05:50 PM.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:36 PM   #211
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where did you learn to turn a wrench
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:55 PM   #212
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where did you learn to turn a wrench
believed it or not but the Bentley manual. Prior to this I couldn't even change my oil tire. I was sick and tired of going to the mechanic and having them "take advantage" of me so the husband bought me a Bentley.

BTW..the above picture is outdated. Hood is also removed. We made a stupid mistake by removing all four bolts. What we should have done is remove the lower bolts and loosen the top bolts then slip the hood up and away from the latch. What we did was wrong and the hood slammed into the windshield. Nothing was damaged (the old windshield already had cracks and needed to be replaced anyway) and we are so thankful we learned this on the 325 and not on the 323.

btw...do I have to remove the sway bar to pull the engine out (for better clearance).

Also..thanks for the AC compressor and cooler tip. I didn't feel like disconnected the AC compressor, purging the freon and then later refilling it. You are right, I can just pull the cooler aside and ubolt the compressor. thanks again
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:12 PM   #213
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drop out the BOTTOM...

but if you are pulling out the top/front then the sway bar can stay - although it only takes about ten min to remove
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:13 PM   #214
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you WILL need to at least mostly drop the front subframe - otherwise getting the oil pan to clear and not have the valve cover scraping into the firewall is a hassle
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:52 PM   #215
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you WILL need to at least mostly drop the front subframe - otherwise getting the oil pan to clear and not have the valve cover scraping into the firewall is a hassle
yes I remembered you telling me that. thanx for the reminder. I think this will work out (front subframe) because I am getting the front subframe re-enforced with the turner kit.

the 325 doesn't suffer from the rear subframe (already inspected it) and will not be driven hard by my husband's brother so we are not going to get the rear or front subframe re-enforced.



BTW...don't mean to ask a retarded question but how do I prevent the engine from "flipping sideway" when I lift it up with a cherry picker? When I installed my main rear seal I had to take the engine off the engine stand and hooked it up to the cherry picker. immediately the engine flipped sideway (spark plugs were at 9 o'clock). the engine didn't have the intake manifold installed so I am not sure if this affected the balance of the engine or not.

Last edited by flashmeow; 03-05-2012 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:58 PM   #216
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That's normal. There is not much you can do about it. That's why it's easier to drop it down and why removing headers and engine mount arm (on the exhaust side) helps.

BTW I never heard of reinforcing the front. Why do you feel the need to do it?
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:09 PM   #217
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That's normal. There is not much you can do about it. That's why it's easier to drop it down and why removing headers and engine mount arm (on the exhaust side) helps.

BTW I never heard of reinforcing the front. Why do you feel the need to do it?
hmm...i might need to reconsider pulling out the engine or just dropping it. how easy is it to remove the steering rack and to reinstall it?

here is the information on the front subframe. I already bought the kit and was like.."why not." I am sure this is an over kill but I just want to make sure. I am planning to keep my 323 until I have grand kids

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-63...ement-kit.aspx
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Old 03-05-2012, 10:17 PM   #218
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I can't compare.
Stu did it both ways and I think it's obvious what he likes better.
Since you already got the front of the car removed you might as well try to pull it out. If you find it too much of a pain you can always drop the suspension.
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:35 AM   #219
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great build and one of the most inspiring women ive ever seen/heard/read about in my whole life a true bmw fan from the looks of your enthusiasm level of your car ownership
also that 325 looks just like mine is it 08/02 Schwarz
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:51 AM   #220
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Quote:
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I can't compare.
Stu did it both ways and I think it's obvious what he likes better.
Since you already got the front of the car removed you might as well try to pull it out. If you find it too much of a pain you can always drop the suspension.
steering rack is 4 bolts - 2 on the front subframe and the two at the tie rods.

the only negative is having to align car afterwards
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