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Old 11-21-2012, 05:19 PM   #501
Master Po
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashtwosix View Post
Putting it in park would be normal. The only difference is that there is no "P" indicator on the shifter but I can always look at my dashboard.

The gear shifting on our transmission is all mechanical. Therefore, retrofit like this is very simple with the exception of trying trying to figure out the LED pin layout.

Wait...the only electronic gear shifting is manual upshift and downshift. Everything else is mechanical

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I think he was hinting at the lack of a lock button preventing it from just sliding into P while in motion.
Not that I know what I'm talking about. I've never driven a step.
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:53 PM   #502
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bumping a very old thread but we finally got the brother in law 325i Gm tranny fix. The M52TuB25 engine is currently in his 325i.

just a recap:

-we bought a 2002 325i for the brother in law. he is in college. The car was dirt cheap cuz the head was warp from over heating.
-the M52TUB25 from my 323 is going into his 325i.
-this project was delayed because we destroyed the GM transmission pump cuz we didn't mount the torque converter properly when mating the engine and tranny together.
-we totally rebuilt his entire car from bumper to bumper. every components were replaced from suspension to fuel pump to every gasket and o-ring.

as for performace. the brother in law will see no difference. we are using the M54B25 intake manifold with his M52TUB25 engine so he will get 99.999% identical performance as a M54B25 engine.

Last edited by flashmeow; 12-23-2012 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:00 PM   #503
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Awesome, great work
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:09 PM   #504
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Did you ever get it dynoed ?

You should get it mapped to suit the M54B30 injectors if you haven't already...

Is that ZHP still being parted out, i'm looking for the interior
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:43 PM   #505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelic0- View Post
Did you ever get it dynoed ?

You should get it mapped to suit the M54B30 injectors if you haven't already...

Is that ZHP still being parted out, i'm looking for the interior
Yes, I got it dynoed. The graph was posted a few pages back. I was getting roughly 190+ HP at the wheel.

My short and long term fuel trim was excellent. Maybe in the spring I will install the 330maf and injectors and see what I can pull off

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Old 12-23-2012, 09:44 PM   #506
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My dyno produced 183.7 WHP/209.1 Torque... That's with the M52TUB28 head, M54B30 block, crankshaft and injectors.
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:59 AM   #507
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Both cars are done. Took the 325 on a 300 miles test drive and it ran perfectly. Only found one leak at the ps high pressure hose. We replaced everything except for that hose cuz it was $240 (yeah...for a hose right?). Found it cheaper on pelican for $117. Still expensive but much cheaper than the oe.

Zhp steering rack coming in this week. Need to replace my tie rods.

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Old 01-05-2013, 11:25 AM   #508
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Both cars look great. Also, what ever happened with the manual shift boot edit?
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Quote:
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sometimes i'm into it and my one hand gets tired, i try switching, but then it's like someone with lou gehrig's trying to peel a carrot.

Last edited by Tate325xi; 01-05-2013 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 01-05-2013, 07:12 PM   #509
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Originally Posted by Tate325xi View Post
Both cars look great. Also, what ever happened with the manual shift boot edit?

it is here. I bought it but haven't install it because I am too lazy. I have to disconnect all the wiring from the MDCT just so I can install the leather manual boot.

I have been working on the 712 (aka 330, ZHP rack). Just got it installed today and I took plenty of pitures. I replaced my tie rod too and the steering is so tight and definitely worth all long hours today.

pictures to follow.

Last edited by flashmeow; 01-06-2013 at 12:59 AM.
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:58 PM   #510
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Beautiful pictures of the insides of any e46 always appreciated! Thanks

Interesting to see the protrusion of the FSR prongs into the air box. Sits in the air chamber to take advantage of the cooling circulation there.
This in your second pic.
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Old 01-06-2013, 01:01 AM   #511
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stinger9 View Post
Beautiful pictures of the insides of any e46 always appreciated! Thanks

Interesting to see the protrusion of the FSR prongs into the air box. Sits in the air chamber to take advantage of the cooling circulation there.
This in your second pic.
thanks buddy. I didn't know why I quoted/reposted those pictures from my HVAC blower. I need to go to bed cuz I spent ALL DAY bleeding my ABS & brakes and then installing the 712 rack and then messing up my steering wheel orientation and then finally fixing my car. 1am and I need my sleep. silly car!!!
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:42 PM   #512
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I finally got around to doing the 712/ZHP steering wheel rack upgrade. I wrote a DIY and posted it on the DIY forum but I am going to post my results on here to show the progress of my build.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flashmeow View Post
Hello,

Last week we ordered a "712" Rack (aka ZHP Rack) from the rackdoctor (e46fanatics sponsor) and installed it in my 2000 323i. The intent of this thread is to share our experiences with the install, give some tips and provide an honest assessment on the Rackdoctor.


The Rack Itself:


Received the "ZHP" Rack. Rack looks brand new like it came from the factory. The rack doctor did a good job at securing/packing the rack. Oil holes were pluged. The inner rods threads and pinion shaft were protected.

Rack came with inner tie rods, copper crush washer (didn't expect this at all), tie rods nuts and brand new rubber dust boot.

The pair of tie rods below the ZHP Rack are Genuine/Original BMW. I am going to replace my outer tie rods. The inner tie rods that was included with this unit seems to be aftermarket because the nut is 1/2 skinner than the OE nut on the brand new unit and on my old unit. Likewise, the inner tie rod shaft is smaller than the OE. OE requires a 14mm to turn/adjust the inner rods whereas this unit requires a 13mm wrench.

Install:


Remove the nut that secures the outer tie rod to the front suspension/kingpin.
Nute Size: TBA


Spray some penterating oil on the outer tie rod. wait approx 5 minutes so that the oil work its magic Without pentrating oil it will be extrmeley hard to remove the ball joint.


If the nut doesn't come off because the ball joint is spinning then lock the thread with a hex key.

Hex Key Size: TBA


If you plan on reusing the outer tie rods then you need a tie rod puller tool. However, I recommend replacing your tie rod since our cars are over 10yrs old.

If you are going to replace your outer tie rod then you can just pound it out. For more surface area (not shown) you can leave the nut on.


Remove the Power Steering Lines. There are two banjo bolts for each of the line (high pressure return and heat pipe return). Get a drain bucket ready for the leaking ATF. About 1 quart will leak out so be prepare to get dirty unless you have your helper do this part.

Banjo Bolt Sizes: TBA



Here are the banjo bolts. Clean the banjo bolts. The black bolt seems more advance and it seems like it has a screen/filter or some regulating devices. The brass one is very basic and is just hollow.


Next step is to remove the steering coupler / guibo. Use an E-12 Torx. You can spin the steering wheel so that the torx bolt are expose for better access.


Remove the two bolts that secure the steering rack to the front subframe. There is a nut on the other side of the bolt.


For better acess, I recommend the following tool setup. this is the best way to remove and install those two bolts. Spaces are very limited on top so a socket and rachet will not work.


After the two bolts are removed, you can just wiggle the steering rack out. Again, the steering rack is secured to the car by 4 points (1 outer tie rod, 2 oil line, 3 steering coupler, 4 subrame/rack bolt.)
Bolt Size: TBA



The new rack didn't come with a pinion shaft dust cover.


Have to remove the dust cap fromt the old rack and transplant it to the new rack. The plastic dust cover will be most likely seized. Spray pentrating oil and wiggle it out. Be very careful not to break this plastic piece because it is a VERY CRITICAL ITEM (will discuss later). Don't pry the dust cap. Just wiggle and pull it. The dust cover has matching teeth to mate into the pinion shaft


This is what the dust cap looks like. Clean the dust cap and lube it with some grease so that furture removal could be easier.

Steering Rack Alignment / Centering



This is by far the most important task. Doing this step wrong will activate an DSC error code (steering wheel angle sensor implusible) and will cause your steering wheel to be crooked like this:

What is a steering Rack Alignment? Basically, you are just ensuring that the the rack is centered meaning that the left and right side are protuding out of the housing at equal distance.

There are three ways you can center your e46 Steering Rack.

1) Turner Motor Sport has an steering rack alignment tool.
2) Use the dust cap to aligned the rack.
3) Measure equal distance from each side

Option 1:


This tool is used to aligned the steering rack to ensure that both sides are protuding out at equal distance. Only need to use the tool on one side. This tool is nothing more than a pre determined sized measuring block. for more info go here:
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-17...-tool-e46.aspx

Option 2:
I didn't have this option since my rack from the rackdoctor didn't come with the dust cap. Normally this isn't important but on the e46 (and new BMWs), the dust cover also acts as an alignment tool to help center the rack with the steering column. The vertical fin helps aligned the steering column/wheel and the notch will ensure that the rack is always centered.




However assuming that the dust cap was preinstalled then you just lined up the two alignment notches on the dust cover and rack when you install the steering coupler / guibo.


Option3:
Use a digital caliper to measure the rack. For the e46 rack, the measurement should be 2.0x inches from each side. For my ZHP rack, the measurement was 2.04x



Once you determined that the rack is centered then you installed the dust cap onto the new rack (old rack shown). Make sure the two alignment notces are aligned.

Now you can move the rack/tie rods left and right witout having to worry about it being off centered. just turn the pinion shaft to the left or right until the dust cap alignment notch touch the steering rack alignment notch

After you ensure the rack is centered then you just install it (reverse order).

Make sure you use 2x crush washer on each banjo fitting. it goes like this : crush washer=banjo fitting=hose=crush washer


mate the outer tie rod and inner tie rod.

Make sure you measure your old outer tie rod and ensure that the new outer tie rod is the same length. This is important because it will help with your vehicle alignment. If you forgot this step then just make sure both outer tie rods are at equal distance and go get an alignment.

install the tie rod into the front suspension/kingpin. if the tie rod ball joint spins then just apply pressure to the tie rod. A trick is to use a car jack and lift up on the tie rod and this will prevent the ball joint from spinning.


Install the steering coupler /guibo. No need to worry about alignment because the steering column can only go one way (due to the vertical fin).


Top off the Power Steering Reservoir. start car and turn steering wheel from lock to lock and this will bleed the system of air. fill with ATF (recommend Dexron 3 or higher). Don't overfill or underfill. use the cap to measure for correct fluid level.


Congrats! You are done.

Verification Process:

To verify whether you installed the steering rack correctly and that it is centered, hook up a GT1 and read the steering angle. From lock to lock, the angel should be identical (or as close to identical as possible).

At full lock (clock wise): For me it was -546.42


This mean that at the opposite lock position, I should get the same but opposite value

At full lock (conter clock wise)

This mean that my car is GOOD!

For added measure, center your steering wheel and you should get 0.0 degree


Originally, my steering was extremely crooked because I didn't know about the importance of the Pinion Dust Cap. I installed my new steering rack without the dust cap (recommended by the rack doctor) and although I enjoy the tight feel of the steering, my car didn't feel right. I started a thread about it. Possible problems that were suggested were the tie rod measurement, steering coupler to just getting an alignment.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...126&highlight=

My value from lock to lock were (540 and -550). This of course trigger a DSC error light and my steering wheel when driving was crooked about 10-15 degree.

I had to remove the tie rod rubber boots and centered my steering rack using OPTION 3 (as outline above).

It took me 30 minutes to find a way to reinstall the rubber boots because the included boot was an aftermarket item. the boot was smaller than the rack housing thus it was very hard to install the boot over the rack. You had to stretch the rubber boot. The trick I used was to fold over the boot, press the rubber boot firmly against the housing and then unfold the boot. the unfolding motion will help push the rubber boot over the housing. this method will now only take 5 minutes but is still very annoying and messy (grease). OE/OEM boot is a tad over size. All you have to do is push it over the housing:




Optional Step: Calibration

after you are done, you can recaliberate your wheel angle sensor.




Last Step is to go get an alignment. I have an alignment appointment on Monday at my local BMW dealership. The dealer is charging me $119 which is a bargin and they are aftermarket suspension friendly. My car front bumper is under 6inches off the ground.



In summary:

I took the car on a test drive and OMG. The steering feel so tight and responsive. It is like driving a new car and I compare the feel to that of the e90 (which has a tigher and heavier steering wheel feel). I enjoyed the steering so much (especially at highway speed) that I have put over 500 miles with the new rack.

Lastly, a review of the rackdoctor

Here are some of the Pros and Cons of ordering from the Rackdoctor (in no particular order)

Pros:
-Free Shipping
-Saturday Delivery (FEDEX)
-Price is very competitive
-Rebuilt rack is very high quality. Looks brand new
-Include Inner Tie Rods with all the required nuts
-New Rubber Dust Boot
-Crush Washer Included
-Rubber Boot was secured with metal lock rings (just like OE/OEM).


Cons:
-Aftermarket inner tie rod
-Aftermarket dust boot
-No Pinion Shaft Dust Cap/Cover

Recommendation for improvement:
-Give buyer the option to buy rack with OE/OEM inner tie rods
-Include Dust Cap. The rack came with everything you need to complete the install so why not include the dust cap to make the alignment of the steering rack the job easier?

Misc:

Pre-Sale Communication: A+ excellent. Answered all of my e-mails quickly. Provide tips and recommendations and quality of technical explanations are impressive.

Post-Sale Communication: C+/B-. My husband e-mail Rick about how to center the steering rack and whether or not the dust cap is included and necessary. His response wasn't as through as his pre-sale communication (mostly 1-2 sentences long). He told us that we can reuse the dust cover or not install it at all. To center the rack, He told us to turn and count the steering wheel from lock to lock and back up 1/2 to center the rack. He didn't mentioned anything about the "alignment mark" on the rack and how we can easily center the rack by just measuring the rack.

Would I buy again from Rackdoctor: Yes
Would I recommend my friends to the Rackdoctor: Yes
Was the purchase/upgrade worth it: ABSOLUTELY. I wished I upgraded my rack years sooner.

old rack


new "ZHP" Rack"



I hope this helps. Thanks for reading
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:45 PM   #513
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the project is done but I want to keep this thread alive cuz I want to show my progress.

finally got around to installing the manual boot. I tried to shop around for a used one but got tired of waiting so I just bought a new one. Many years ago the leatherette was around $10-15 and now it is around $50. Real leather cost about $5 more so I bough the real leather instead.

Also...finally got around to installing a push start button. just like the MDCT, I got the idea for the push start from a few members on e46fanatics.com
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:49 PM   #514
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Bless you flashtwosix. I did this exact swap (650 to 712 rack from rack dr) and I pretty much destroyed my dust cap. But I also think my rack isn't centered. Although I don't have any wheel angle sensor problems, I have some noticeable tracking issues. Thanks for documenting your experience and sharing! Much appreciated.
=)
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:52 AM   #515
flashmeow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drumsauce View Post
Bless you flashtwosix. I did this exact swap (650 to 712 rack from rack dr) and I pretty much destroyed my dust cap. But I also think my rack isn't centered. Although I don't have any wheel angle sensor problems, I have some noticeable tracking issues. Thanks for documenting your experience and sharing! Much appreciated.
=)
Thanks for the kind comment. Since your car isn't giving you a DSC error then this mean that your "steering rack alignment" is still within the margin allowed for the steering wheel angle sensor. Another way to tell too is if you are driving a making a turn (not even at high speed or sharp turn) but your DSC is activating then that is another indicator that your DSC is going haywire.

Prior to researching and finding out about the alignment nothces on the pinion shaft dust cover, I was just guestimating how I could mate the steering guibo to the steering rack. it was a trail and error thing. ANyhow, there is this small curve down the road from me...taking that curve would never activate the DSC but my "trail and error" adjustmented did. So after I correctly centered my rack, no more DSC activating on that curve.

ANyhow...I am glad you found the centered/alignment portion useful. It took me over a week to research this issue. I had to call in a few favors from the dealership.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:54 AM   #516
flashmeow
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mini update on the MDCT retrofit: the brightness of the shift knob is adjustable via the LCM.



at high setting


at low brightness

Last edited by flashmeow; 01-14-2013 at 07:09 AM.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:34 AM   #517
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Flash,

You mentioned earlier on this thread that you would post up prices & a list of parts. Could you post them? I am planning to do a swap soon & it's going to be an absolute learning curve for me!

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:52 AM   #518
flashmeow
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Flash,

You mentioned earlier on this thread that you would post up prices & a list of parts. Could you post them? I am planning to do a swap soon & it's going to be an absolute learning curve for me!

Thanks in advance.
sunspot,

hello. are you doing an engine swap on another car or with your current 330i?
Anyhow, yes I have the part and price list (excel) but to be honest with you....99% of all the parts were interchangable for this engine project. therefore, there were no need for me to buy brand new parts. All of my parts purchases is for "preventative maintenance" such as new o-ring, gasket, etc. so in theory...you can just get a used engine...dropped it in your car and just cranked it.

if you still needs the part/price list let me know.

Betty!
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:01 AM   #519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flashmeow View Post
sunspot,

hello. are you doing an engine swap on another car or with your current 330i?
Anyhow, yes I have the part and price list (excel) but to be honest with you....99% of all the parts were interchangable for this engine project. therefore, there were no need for me to buy brand new parts. All of my parts purchases is for "preventative maintenance" such as new o-ring, gasket, etc. so in theory...you can just get a used engine...dropped it in your car and just cranked it.

if you still needs the part/price list let me know.

Betty!
I'm planning to replace the motor on my current 330, unfortunately, I have a knock coming from the bottom of my M54 ):

A perfect theory I must say. We all know the saying, "might as well do this while it is out" haha. Anyhow, I'm gathering a "tools needed" list. Also to save a budget for the project. So, when I get more into it, I will consult it with you!

Thanks (:

Jimmy
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:19 AM   #520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunspot View Post
I'm planning to replace the motor on my current 330, unfortunately, I have a knock coming from the bottom of my M54 ):

A perfect theory I must say. We all know the saying, "might as well do this while it is out" haha. Anyhow, I'm gathering a "tools needed" list. Also to save a budget for the project. So, when I get more into it, I will consult it with you!

Thanks (:

Jimmy

Oh no. definitely contact me cuz I am more willing to help but to be honest...engine swap (especial direct swap) is actually very easy and simple. the hardest part is actually pulling out the engine and dropping it back in. everything else is just plugging this plug in, attaching this sensor, etc/
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