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Old 01-09-2015, 09:18 AM   #1
Karlock
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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My Ride: 06 325Ci
P0133, P0171, and P16A7, and Oil Consumption

Hi Everyone, I am trying to troubleshoot and fix some engine codes, and potentially any other engine issues with my car. Car is a 2006 325CI, 5-speed manual with 151,000 miles.

Past month driving.

December, 11, 2014, the service engine soon light came on while driving on the highway. I used my OBDII scan tool to obtain a single error code, P0133 for O2 sensor slow response. I cleared the code, and the light stayed off for about a week.

December 18, 2014, the service engine soon light came on again while highway driving. This time, the codes returned were P0133 and a new code, P0171 for system bank too lean. I cleared the code and it remained off for about a day this time.

December 20, 2014. I am driving across the state of PA from Pittsburgh to the northeast side of the state. My route includes a section of highway that cuts through the mountains in west/central PA, near Blairsville Rt. 22, where there is a rather steep grade of highway for about 3 miles, as I ascend up the mountain. I have made this trip many times, but this was the first time I ever had to downshift into 4th to maintain my speed going up the mountain. It felt like I was lacking quite a bit of horsepower, and I never have had to downshift going up that hill, with 1 exception a few years ago when it was snowing like crazy and I wasn’t able to drive above 20 mph going up that section of road. I made it across the state (about 5 hrs of driving highway) and cleared the light. I don’t drive my car for about another day, but once I get about 20 minutes into the drive, it pops on again. I don’t clear it this time, but I read the code and it’s the same P0133 and P0171. I continue to drive for about another few days until December 23, and then I basically was parked until December 29.

December 30, I drive again across the state to head to DC/Baltimore area, again through some hilly/mountainous highway, and I generally notice a lack of power. I make the 4 hour drive, and leave my car parked for 2 days, until January 1, 2015. When I drive back to Pittsburgh, I chose to take a more southern, scenic route, I-68 to US-40, a much hillier and curvy highway, because why else do we drive BMWs? Still lacking some power getting up the big hills on the interstate, but generally no drivability issues, other than the glaring SES light on my dash. I get on the US-40 highway and the speed limits are a bit slower, but the hills are bigger. Maybe 20 minutes into this part of the drive, about halfway up a big hill, my engine cut all power, and entered limp mode. So I pulled over immediately and shut the car off. I am about 2 hours from my house at this point, so I am a little worried I would need a tow. Pull out the OBDII scan tool, and the same 2 P0133 and P0171 are light, but with a new code, P16A7. Looked up the code, and discovered it’s a manufacturer defined code. So I save the code, and restart the car, listening for any obvious signs of engine trouble. Engine sounds fine at idle, so I start driving again cautiously, and then about 20 minutes later, another big hill, the same thing happens. Car enters limp mode and I pull over. Same 3 codes again. I cleared the codes, but the SES light came back on almost immediately. I made the remaining drive home, with no more limp mode issues.

January 1, 2015, I started doing some research on this site and determined that the P16A7 code is likely due to a clogged catalytic converter, which causes increased backpressure, and the limp mode is the car’s way to prevent engine damage. My car has about 151,000 miles when the issues occurred, and I didn’t think a catalytic converter should fail on its own. To me, this says I am probably burning oil or some other contaminants in the fuel have caused my cat to clog over time.

I looked around for options for catalytic converter cleaning vs replacement and I would like to avoid a catalytic converter replacement if possible. So I went online, and discovered a product called Mr. Gasket, Cataclean, since it was $25 for a bottle, vs the potential replacement of the cats. Online reviews seemed positive, with exception for people who had catastrophic and significant damage to the catalytic converters.

January 2, I put the bottle of Cataclean in per the directions on the bottle (1/4 tank of gas or about 4 gallons per bottle), drove 10 miles, and then filled the tank. Cleared codes. Engine seemed to have quite a bit more power than before, and I was very pleased with the result so far. Drove the remaining 20 miles home.

Next day in the car, I drove for about 20 minutes, mixed highway/city driving, was in the store for 40 minutes, then drove home another 20 minutes, mixed highway/city driving. No codes.

I drove again on the following day, 20 minutes mixed city/highway, car was off for about 1.5 hours, then another 20 minutes mixed city/highway. No codes.

I drove to work Monday morning (1/5/2015), 35 minutes of highway driving, at proper highway speed. No codes on the morning drive. Later at night, on the drive home, about 15 minutes into the drive on the highway, the SES light returned. I decided I would wait and get the code when I got home. About 10 minutes left in the drive, on a sharp curve/slight incline exit ramp, my car went into limp mode on a narrow section of highway that basically had no shoulder to safely pull off to. I was going about 45-50 mph, so I had momentum for some quick action; while rolling, I pushed in the clutch, took the car out of gear, shut the engine off, and quickly restarted it while still rolling at about 35-40 mph. The car came back to life, and I matched speed and drove the remaining 3 miles home very cautiously. Got home, and pulled the engine code. This time, only a P0133, and surprisingly, no other fault related to the trip into limp mode. I cleared the code, and it has come back since.

January 7, 2015, I noticed when I started my car, it sounded like it was low on oil. Sure enough, I checked my dip stick and I was low. I topped it off, using Castrol 5W-40 synthetic, which is what I filled it with the last oil change. Top of the cap looks like it was spread with mayonnaise. Car sounds better, but still had a rather odd whirring sound, that I didn’t normally notice before. It was a sound that matched engine speed, not road speed, and almost like a pump was either cavitating or struggling.

So my questions for the forum community are as follows:

If either oil or coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber, is it possible this is the source for contamination that could cause a clogged cat and failing O2 sensors?

If so, what are some things that I can check for as a home mechanic without a whole lot of fancy diagnostic tools, other than an OBDII Scan tool?

Are there engine oil additives that any of you recommend for cleaning the engine from contamination?

Any other advice is also appreciated.

Thanks,
__________________
---------------------------------
2006 325CI - 150,000+ miles
---------------------------------
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Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs, Valve Cover Gasket, Thermostat, Headlight igniter and control unit, Front and rear brake rotors and pads, Interior central lock switch, Fuel Pump, Fuel Injector Refurbishment (Witchhunter believer!), CCV (Cold Climate Version), Coolant system flush and fill, and many oil changes.
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Old 01-09-2015, 09:38 AM   #2
jfoj
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Lets simplify this a bit.

You have plenty of details.

If this was my car, I would be replacing the fuel pump first as most of the codes reference Bank #1 which is furthest from the fuel rail connection.

What OBDII tools are you using? A smart phone OBDII App and interface should be able to graph O2 sensors.

As for the mayo in the crankcase, this is pretty normal at this time of year and these temperatures. Do you know for a fact the engine is running at the correct temperature? Even if the thermostat has been replaced, the engine could still be running to cool.

I need to see Freeze Frame data and warm idle Fuel Trim values to comment further.

Forget about "Mechanic in the can" solutions for now and worrying about head gaskets and so forth.

Suggest you read the first 3 links below in my signature.
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Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Old 01-09-2015, 02:03 PM   #3
Karlock
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My Ride: 06 325Ci
My OBD2 tool is a bluetooth enabled OBD Link MX, from ScanTool.net.

I had a partial log from January 5th. My phone decided to restart randomly on the drive into work when I was collecting data, and I didn't restart the program while driving. The log has some warm-up and driving data for the O2 sensors, and the short and long term fuel trim %s, just not the warm idle info or Freeze Frame data. I can get that after I drive home from work today.

As for the engine coolant temp on the same date, the steady-state warm temp was between 201F and 203F.

I actually bought a replacement fuel pump a while ago, but I never installed it due to general laziness. Looks like that is on my agenda for tomorrow morning. I'll check out an auto parts store for a new filter as well, and attempt to replace that tomorrow as well.

Since the log file has roughly 2000 data points for a 30 minute drive, are there any trends that I can look into without pasting a whole table into a comment reply?

Would a MS Excel scatter plot of the drive provide any insight?

Thanks,
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2006 325CI - 150,000+ miles
---------------------------------
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Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs, Valve Cover Gasket, Thermostat, Headlight igniter and control unit, Front and rear brake rotors and pads, Interior central lock switch, Fuel Pump, Fuel Injector Refurbishment (Witchhunter believer!), CCV (Cold Climate Version), Coolant system flush and fill, and many oil changes.
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Old 01-09-2015, 02:11 PM   #4
jfoj
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Fuel pump is easy, you will need one small worm drive hose clamp. I can change them in 15 minutes, you might need 25-30 if it is the first one.

Filter can wait a bit, order one online and save some money as these have the fuel pressure regulator built in and they can be a bit more expensive.

As for the log data, set up a free DropBox account, upload to DropBox then use the Share feature to generate a URL and post is back so I can review it.

I have OBD Link, have not used it much, I think it can do the logging, maybe not so intuitive as others??
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Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:10 PM   #5
Karlock
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Ok, here are the files. Note, OBDlink provides files in .csv form (MS excel will open it)


This is the cold start to warm-up, for about 20 minutes of highway driving. I had to stop at a parts store on the way home to pick up a hose clamp, so its a shorter drive. I idled in the parking lot for a few minutes to try to get the warm idle info.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ijeyg1dmq9...84311.csv?dl=0

This is part 2, when I started the car up after the hardware store. This log is also about 20 minutes in duration. I also let it idle for a few minutes at the end of this trip as well.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qi2fhxdjuv...91523.csv?dl=0

Lastly, some screen caps of the freeze frame data. A few were taken at cold, then later after the first trip. The file name at the top of the screen caps should indicate the chronological order in which the screen caps were taken.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/d6eanahcff...edata.zip?dl=0


Let me know if you need anything else.

Thanks,
__________________
---------------------------------
2006 325CI - 150,000+ miles
---------------------------------
Hobby Mechanic
Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs, Valve Cover Gasket, Thermostat, Headlight igniter and control unit, Front and rear brake rotors and pads, Interior central lock switch, Fuel Pump, Fuel Injector Refurbishment (Witchhunter believer!), CCV (Cold Climate Version), Coolant system flush and fill, and many oil changes.
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Old 01-10-2015, 02:05 PM   #6
Karlock
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Ok. Fuel pump was replaced. Took about an hour, my garage was way super cold and I was being cautious to not break any wires or the connectors. I ran the car for about 10 minutes in the driveway when I finished, no stutters and it appeared to be a successful replacement.
__________________
---------------------------------
2006 325CI - 150,000+ miles
---------------------------------
Hobby Mechanic
Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs, Valve Cover Gasket, Thermostat, Headlight igniter and control unit, Front and rear brake rotors and pads, Interior central lock switch, Fuel Pump, Fuel Injector Refurbishment (Witchhunter believer!), CCV (Cold Climate Version), Coolant system flush and fill, and many oil changes.
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:17 AM   #7
Karlock
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Update:

Commute to work this morning was fine. I drove pretty conservatively due to weather conditions, but I put the engine under load a few times on the highway, and it appeared to be a strong and smooth acceleration. I logged some more OBDII driving data points, just to compare the before and after fuel pump replacement data. I also checked to see if the pending O2 sensor failure indicator was stored, since it appeared that the car holds the SES light off for a while, when the code is first triggered. As of this morning, it appeared that no codes were stored. So it looks like the struggling up hill and the stalling was a soft fuel pump failure.

Now time to troubleshoot what the whirring noise could be and oil consumption.
__________________
---------------------------------
2006 325CI - 150,000+ miles
---------------------------------
Hobby Mechanic
Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs, Valve Cover Gasket, Thermostat, Headlight igniter and control unit, Front and rear brake rotors and pads, Interior central lock switch, Fuel Pump, Fuel Injector Refurbishment (Witchhunter believer!), CCV (Cold Climate Version), Coolant system flush and fill, and many oil changes.
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Old 01-12-2015, 08:39 AM   #8
jfoj
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Glad you were able to replace the fuel pump and it may have solved your issues. The cold does slow you down at times. My record fuel pump replacement time was 15 minutes in like 40F temps but it was not my first rodeo either.

Drive if for a few days then log/watch the LTFT at idle and steady cruise.

0% to +2.5% is ideal.

I have seen soft fuel pumps cause the Fuel Trims to ramp up but not always trigger Lean codes.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:43 AM   #9
Karlock
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Update.

Error code P0133 has returned. It tripped yesterday on the commute home from work, about 5-10 minutes into the drive. I checked the code, got some freeze frame data. I didn't clear the code immediately when I got home, although I regret that.

Driving home late at night / early in the morning after about 10-15 minutes into the drive, and under some moderate load (5th gear, 50 mph and slight incline and curve to the highway on-ramp), the engine cut power again, and went into limp mode. I pulled over on the ramp, put on my flashers and checked the code. P0133 and P16A7 again. The P16A7 is only a pending code though. I got a second screen cap of the freeze frame data, but it only showed the P0133 from earlier. Shame on me for not clearing it out earlier.

Attached are some screenshots of the P0133 data.

Notes about driving the past few days after fuel pump replacement: What a difference at highway acceleration. I didn't realize it before, but it was definitely struggling before the pump replacement when attempting to accelerate on the highway in 5th gear. It almost pulsed or hobbled up to speed. Now its pretty smooth and a bit more responsive, so I am pleased with the result of that repair independent of other issues.
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__________________
---------------------------------
2006 325CI - 150,000+ miles
---------------------------------
Hobby Mechanic
Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs, Valve Cover Gasket, Thermostat, Headlight igniter and control unit, Front and rear brake rotors and pads, Interior central lock switch, Fuel Pump, Fuel Injector Refurbishment (Witchhunter believer!), CCV (Cold Climate Version), Coolant system flush and fill, and many oil changes.
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:36 AM   #10
Karlock
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Update:

Got the lean code again, P0171. First time I have seen it since I replaced my fuel pump. SES light tripped ON about 25 minutes into my 30 minute commute.

Given what I have been reading in the recommended threads, looks like I may have a vacuum leak. I watched the Scotty smoke test video for how to identify leaks.

Attached is freeze frame from when the light tripped on. Note, no other pending codes were stored this time (previously was pending another P0133 code, but wasn't pending or stored this morning).
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__________________
---------------------------------
2006 325CI - 150,000+ miles
---------------------------------
Hobby Mechanic
Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs, Valve Cover Gasket, Thermostat, Headlight igniter and control unit, Front and rear brake rotors and pads, Interior central lock switch, Fuel Pump, Fuel Injector Refurbishment (Witchhunter believer!), CCV (Cold Climate Version), Coolant system flush and fill, and many oil changes.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:48 AM   #11
jfoj
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Very odd that 1 bank is far more way out of whack with the Fuel Trim than the other.

So the fuel pump was replaced, this was needed regardless, it seemed to have helped??

So I am not sure where to tell you to head.

The car probably has wideband O2 sensors which are much harder to trend and flag problems with. The O2 sensors are consumables and usually should be replaced around 100k miles, assume the current sensors are original?

If it was my car, depending on cash on hand, I would either swap the pre-cat O2 sensor locations and see if the high Fuel Trim follows the O2 sensor or replace the O2 sensors.

If this does not resolve or help things, might be time to dig in deeper and look at engine mechanicals and possibly pull and swap injectors or send out for cleaning and flow testing.

Higher speed/engine load Lean issues are rarely vacuum leak related.
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-20-2015, 11:39 AM   #12
DaHammer
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Posts: 251
My Ride: 2003 325i
I've got the same issue, lean on bank 1 only, plus some. Here is what I've done thus far without success:
  • Replaced fuel pump
  • Replaced Pre-cat O2 sensors
  • Replaced both intake boots
  • Replaced fuel filter
  • Replaced throttle body gasket
  • Replaced DISA
  • Replaced valve cover
  • Replaced valve cover gasket & grommets
  • Replaced vacuum caps on back on intake
  • Replaced VANOS seals with Beisen seals
  • Replaced oil filler cap
  • Cleaned throttle body
  • Cleaned MAF
  • Cleaned ICV
  • Inspected/Tested CCV & hoses

After having the lean code for a couple months, my car has now begun intermittently throwing code P16A7 and when it does the EML, DSC, and Brake lights all come on, won't go over a few MPH, the idle fluctuates from 500-1500RPM and the car is basically dead in the water until you turn it off and restart it. Then it's fine again, like it never happened.

It also misfires on random cylinders under heavy throttle.

I ended up taking it to my Indy and he says the MAF is toast. We shall see if that fixes it.

My understanding is that it could also be clogged cats, dirty injectors, leaky/broken valves, bad throttle body or bad throttle body wiring harness. It's proving to be a tough nut to crack that is for sure. Good luck.
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Old 01-20-2015, 12:45 PM   #13
Karlock
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jfoj,

Fuel pump helped smooth out highway driving, in that acceleration feels more deliberate and responsive.

I'll attempt to swap O2 sensors, to see if the lean code follows the O2 sensor. Yes they are original, or original in the regards that in 105k miles of ownership I have never replaced them.

As far as injector cleaning / flow testing. I know they are a bit deeper in the engine, so it may take some time to get it apart to take them out. Is flow testing something that could be done without removing the injectors? Would it be easier / smarter to buy and replace injectors on my own? I think if I were to do injector replacement work, I would likely replace a bunch of other things along the way out of convenience.


DaHammer, thanks for the reply. Your list contains the things I was considering to take a look at and potentially replace over the next few months. I definitely want to hear back if the MAF helps out!

I had also read in some other threads about clogged cats tripping the P16A7 code, due to an increase of back pressure in the manifold, which through a series of events, trips the engine to limp mode (fluctuating RPMS between 500-1500). Also, did your SES light stay on, or did you happen to notice if the P16A7 was a stored error code? In my instance, its only ever been pending, but never left the light on.

I've only ever had one misfire event, that was about a year ago, around 125,000 miles on the engine, when I had a bad ignition coil (Cylinder 5). I replaced all of them and all the plugs as PM, and I haven't had any misfires since.

I'm a rather conservative driver, in that I rarely put my car through its paces accelerating hard or keeping the RPMs high, so I don't think I would be in a situation where I would have leaky or damaged valves, but I don't have any history on the first owner. Still can't rule it out yet. Stands to reason that damaged valves could be leaking oil into the combustion chamber and the exhaust products could be collecting on the cat downstream.

I have had my car for 4.5 years now, and the original owner put 44,000 miles on it, so I would almost assume that any hard driving they may have done would have shown symptoms by 150,000.
__________________
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2006 325CI - 150,000+ miles
---------------------------------
Hobby Mechanic
Ignition Coils and Spark Plugs, Valve Cover Gasket, Thermostat, Headlight igniter and control unit, Front and rear brake rotors and pads, Interior central lock switch, Fuel Pump, Fuel Injector Refurbishment (Witchhunter believer!), CCV (Cold Climate Version), Coolant system flush and fill, and many oil changes.
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Old 01-20-2015, 01:04 PM   #14
DaHammer
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The first time mine went into limp mode and threw the P16A7 the SES light was already on due to the P0171, so yes it stayed on after that event. When I read the codes, I found only the P16A7 and the P0171. Then after driving the car home (less than 20 miles) and reading them again, a P0306 (Cylinder 6 misfire) showed up.

I then cleared the codes, reset the adaptions, replaced the valve cover, valve cover gasket & grommets, VANOS seals, camshaft sensor o-ring, VANOS solenoid o-rings. Took the car on a test drive of about 50 miles round trip. Within 20 miles he long term fuel trims on bank 1 were back up to 12%. I made a stop at around 25 miles and turned the car off for maybe 20 minutes. About 5 miles into the return trip, the EML, DSC, and brake lights all came back on and it went into limp mode again. Pulled over, turned the car off, restarted it immediately and everything was fine again. This time the SES light did not stay on, but I had P0171, P16A7, & P0305 (misfire cylinder 5) pending.

I ordered a gauge to test the exhaust back pressure but didn't receive before I ended up just taking it to my Indy. I'm hoping the MAF will fix it but doubtful. I will report back though. You can read about my troubles in this thread:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1058958
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Old 01-20-2015, 01:12 PM   #15
jfoj
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The P16A7 is the real puzzler here. This is not a "standard" OBDII code. But the code readers are picking it up or they are incorrectly displaying it??

Would be helpful if someone had BMW Scanner 1.4.0 or INPA to see what is going on with the P16A7. It might be a problem with the smart phone software App, but there is likely a PID associated with the P16A7.

In the case of 1 Bank being Lean and other other being correct, I would doubt this is a MAF related issue. One Lean Bank is either bad data being sent to the DME from a sensor, but what Bank is the correct one?? Is the engine really running Lean or is the Lean Bank bad data??

Swapping O2 sensors saves the money the sensor cost, but will help answer a sensor may be the issue. At least if the O2 sensors are not the main problem, you can put the sensor money toward something else for the moment and then circle back around for O2 sensor refreshing later.

As for the fuel injectors, I would not just buy new ones. You can usually get the injectors refurbished and flow tested for around $20 each and if there is a questionable sensor, then usually these guys will just swap the questionable sensor out for little to no charge. If you can deal with the down time on the car while the injectors are out, this is a good idea. There are a lot of places that do this service, one is www.witchhunter.com .

As for a converter problem, you should be able to log the post Cat O2 sensors using the smart phone App and be able to see if one converter is not performing as well as the other. Not too hard to do. But using an exhaust back pressure gauge is also quick and easy of you have the Pre-cat O2 sensors out anyway. You can either rent a tool from the local Parts Store if they have or buy one on Amazon for around $40.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-20-2015, 01:32 PM   #16
DaHammer
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Check my thread, jfoj. There is a freeze frame on the P16A7 read with INPA. It's a BMW specific code and the BMW code number is 28A2.
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...5&postcount=44
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Old 01-20-2015, 02:34 PM   #17
jfoj
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Hammer, thanks for that Freeze Frame shot. I may have missed this previously.

P16A7 appears to be a MAF self test and the way I read the INPA shot is the MAF reading is not plausible. But I am not sure how to "read" this as INPA states "Control Module Self Test, Hot Film Air Mass Meter Monitoring". Is the "Control Module" the MAF or the DME????????????????????

BUT, here is my initial take on this and I may have it wrong??

So when this Freeze Frame was generated you were going 83 kph or 51 MPH and the engine RPM was almost 5700 RPM.

You had mentioned you were merging onto the highway which seems to agree with the RPM and Speed, you were slightly flogging the car!

So here is the $64k question - Why is the MAF/DME performing a "Self Test" while you are trying to merge onto the highway at 5700 RPM?

Does this mean the MAF signal is dropping in and out?

Does this mean the MAF wiring has a break in the harness and is intermittent ?

Does this mean the female terminals in the MAF connector are loose and intermittent?

Does this mean the DME is rebooting or something is causing the DME to loose power intermittently and then "restart"?

If the issue is DME related, I can kind of see how the MAF "Self Test" would not expect to see an output from the MAF of 413.98 mg/stk. Not exactly sure what mg/stk is in German?? Is it mg/s or milligrams per second?

This does not look like a good value as at idle these engines run about 4 grams/second.

So 413.98 mg/stk would be 0.413 gram/sec which would basically be no airflow??

Just kind of thinking out loud here, so I am all ears.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-20-2015, 02:47 PM   #18
DaHammer
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The wife was actually driving the car when it happened that time. And I saw the 5700RPM and quizzed her about it. She said she wasn't hammering it too hard. I laughed and asked her if the DME was lying and she just shrugged her shoulders. Haha

The second time it did it I was driving and although I was accelerating I wasn't hammering it. Best I recall the RPM was around 2000 that time. I should have the freeze frame for that one also. I will look tonight when I get home.

From what I've read on the P16A7 thus far, although it is a MAF code that doesn't necessarily mean the MAF is at fault. Something to do with the MAF having priority I read. I've also read that there was a TSB on this that suggests the throttle body or throttle body wiring harness are at fault. But I have been unable to find that TSB.

I've only been able to find 1 instance where it was solved and in that case it was clogged cats. That fits with my high load misfires also but I checked the plugs and saw no signs of oil or fouling. My post cat sensors both read around .75 volts at idle when heated up. I haven't looked at them under heavy load though.

Last edited by DaHammer; 01-20-2015 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 01-20-2015, 02:55 PM   #19
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Wife was driving the car, she was going easy on it!!!

Close to 6k RPM on the on ramp, you sure she is not a 19 year old boy??

I am thinking some sort of intermittent??

Maybe the throttle is closing down when it goes into Limp mode, see a lot of throttle pedal angle and little MAF output??

I think part of solving this is understanding INPA and/or using a generic OBDII tool to read the Freeze Frame data and see what INPA (the Germans) use for the mg/stk is this Grams/Sec or milliGrams/Sec??
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 01-20-2015, 03:08 PM   #20
DaHammer
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She is 41! That is her story and she is sticking too it. She said a truck was coming and she was just trying to get out in he road ahead of it.

Yes it is intermittent.

I'm not sure if I saved the freeze frame from Torque or not but I will look.
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