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Old 03-23-2012, 06:50 PM   #241
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P1343

P0174

P0171 Pending

24miles since CEL Clear.

I'm driving around right now and she drives perfectly. No misfires nor hesitations. What gives??

This is getting me so aggravated. I never knew 2-3 codes could be so damn difficult to get right.

I'm out of options.
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:58 PM   #242
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My garage has been my life recently.....

I looked over everything again. I found a crack on the CCV hose that connects to the valve cover.



You guys really think this crack is making my car retarded? lol.

It was a bit smaller until I unhooked it and got bigger.
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:47 PM   #243
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An update on my GF's 330.

Dealer found nothing that would account for the unusual starting, so they apologized profusely, charged her nothing, and sent her on her way. Her SA is a BMWCCA guy so we have a great deal of respect for him.

We're obviously frustrated and while I hate to start throwing money at parts with no real direction, we'll be doing the things in the first post of this thread at some point this spring. Perhaps we'll get lucky with that.
A follow up . . . .

GF's car died in traffic last night about a mile from our house. She said when she (warm) started it to come home it idled horribly and felt like something was dragging the car down. A friend and fellow BMWCCA member happened by and helped push her car to a turn lane and mostly out of traffic. And thanks to some fabulous neighbors and someone's Durango we were able to pull the car home and get it in the garage.

She talked to the same indy shop that thought it was the battery and they now suggest it's the fuel pump. It's probably original, but I'm questioning this diagnosis as I thought pumps generally died and didn't resuscitate themselves like a starter would if you banged on it a couple times.

A mechanic friend is coming over Sunday to hopefully figure out what we've got going on now that we've actually got a failure. Before it was just a rough idle on start, but would settle in and drive just fine. No codes throughout this entire time, so maybe it is the filter.
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:09 PM   #244
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A follow up . . . .

GF's car died in traffic last night about a mile from our house. She said when she (warm) started it to come home it idled horribly and felt like something was dragging the car down. A friend and fellow BMWCCA member happened by and helped push her car to a turn lane and mostly out of traffic. And thanks to some fabulous neighbors and someone's Durango we were able to pull the car home and get it in the garage.

She talked to the same indy shop that thought it was the battery and they now suggest it's the fuel pump. It's probably original, but I'm questioning this diagnosis as I thought pumps generally died and didn't resuscitate themselves like a starter would if you banged on it a couple times.

A mechanic friend is coming over Sunday to hopefully figure out what we've got going on now that we've actually got a failure. Before it was just a rough idle on start, but would settle in and drive just fine. No codes throughout this entire time, so maybe it is the filter.

Pretty simple check. Pull the fuel pump out and turn the key on(not crank it), if the fuel pump is toast it won't do anything. If it's good it should kick on. But as most people say, fuel pump is good PM anyway if you have higher miles. So it might be worth it to just change it out regardless.
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:14 PM   #245
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My garage has been my life recently.....

I looked over everything again. I found a crack on the CCV hose that connects to the valve cover.


You guys really think this crack is making my car retarded? lol.

It was a bit smaller until I unhooked it and got bigger.
That's going to be creating a pretty bad vacuum leak, so if it's not the entirety of your problem, it's probably most of it. Either way, it has to be replaced so I guess you'll find out if that's the problem when you do the repair.
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:35 PM   #246
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That's going to be creating a pretty bad vacuum leak, so if it's not the entirety of your problem, it's probably most of it. Either way, it has to be replaced so I guess you'll find out if that's the problem when you do the repair.
When plugged in the crack closes up but I suppose it still lets in air. Will replace ASAP.
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Old 03-23-2012, 10:48 PM   #247
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Krell,

Pull the bottom rear seat from the car, very easy, pull up sharply on the front corner on each side, can be performed one side at a time.

Once seat is out, check the sound proofing on the passenger side, a horse shoe shaped part of the sound proofing that covers the fuel pump access.

See if the tabs that connect the horse shoe shape to the main sound proofing are cut, if not, then the fuel pump is original.

Once the seat is out, you pull the 3 Phillips screw and easily hear the pump if it is running.

It should run a prime process once the key is turned on, but it usually shut off unless the engine is running. So you should hear it for a few seconds when the key is turned on, if not, you need a fuel pump or the fuel pump relay is bad. The fuel pump relay is the same as the horn relay, so you can swap them as a test as well.

Also if you put a pump in the car, plan on a filter as well.
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:29 AM   #248
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Also, if you do hear the pump it does not mean it's giving enough pressure. It was the case with my car, the pump was working, but it only gave 3 bars of pressure. The new pump that I have replaced was giving more than 6 bars (only had 6 bar max gauge at hand to check).

There is a pretty simple way of testing if the pump is giving enough pressure (but not extremely accurate) by removing the driver's side fuel sender unit's return fuel pipe (put the end of the line in some plastic bottle, preferably with one more person to hold it and be ready with towels for some fuel spillage) and seeing if the fuel runs out of the line when you put the ignition on or briefly start the car. If the fuels runs out of the line, that means that the pump is generating sufficient pressure to overcome the fuel pressure regulator (3-3,5 bars) and most likely it is working correctly.
This problem, with not enough fuel pressure, directly translates to stalling on 1/4+ full gas tank, because the jet sucking pump, which transfers the fuel from driver's lobe to passenger's lobe cannot generate enough pressure to start transferring the fuel.

In any case, I'm eager for yours final solution to this very annoying issue. Best of luck!

Last edited by zYx; 03-24-2012 at 10:30 AM. Reason: paragraphs
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Old 03-24-2012, 04:08 PM   #249
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Guys, thanks for the comments.

There was no sound coming from the fuel pump so we're going to go with the assumption that it's been the cause of our problems. She just placed a big order for the pump, fuel filter, and other preventive items (cooling system, updated CCV, DISA, intake hoses). With any luck everything will arrive this week and we can get started on the install next weekend.
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:33 PM   #250
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Might suggest a fuel pump relay just because.

They do go bad a times and can leave you stranded.

If you do not want to buy a fuel pump relay, at least swap the fuel pump and horn relay. Assume the horn relay has very little use!
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Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

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Last edited by jfoj; 03-29-2012 at 04:53 AM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:07 AM   #251
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I'm going to replace the ccv this week. When I remove my oil cap there is a very strong suction and the idle gets very rough. I heard that means my ccv is either failed or causeing a big vacuum leak. Plus I'm losing oil between changes.
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:09 PM   #252
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I'm going to replace the ccv this week. When I remove my oil cap there is a very strong suction and the idle gets very rough. I heard that means my ccv is either failed or causeing a big vacuum leak. Plus I'm losing oil between changes.
If one of the hoses is leaking then it stands good reasoning to assume the others will fail shortly. I would definitely do the whole kit all at once if you're going to be in there. Those hoses are garbage.

A lot of people say this stuff will fail around 100k miles, but I just did all this on my car that has 60k miles. VCG was brittle and useless, all CCV hoses would just break apart in my hand with little pressure, intake boots had cracks, etc. Probably depends on your climate, but unless you live in Cali where the weather never changes, I would just consider this stuff PM to do every 60k miles.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:47 PM   #253
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Success

Dropped the new fuel pump in and she fired right up, and idled just fine. Now with that out of the way we move to the preventive stuff this weekend. Thanks again to the board for helping out!
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:46 PM   #254
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Well the CCV job went well! Cold weather kit from Bavauto is high quality. I also replaced the ends of the hose from the secondary air pump valve (the metal valve) to the back of the motor. The hoses at the connect points were corroded and cracked. Started her up and no stall! I was surprised! But we will see if she will start right up tomorrow. I cleared the codes. The dipstick o-ring beat me. I didn't understand why it was so hard to fit the dipstick tube back with the new o-ring. I just put it as much as I could back in and tightened the bolt. I will watch it the next couple of days for leaks but I think I'll be okay.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:57 AM   #255
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Not so fast

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Dropped the new fuel pump in and she fired right up, and idled just fine. Now with that out of the way we move to the preventive stuff this weekend. Thanks again to the board for helping out!
Just got a call from the distressed GF, and she said the problem is back, so apparently the fuel pump didn't solve the problem. She's pretty upset, and I'm sitting here scratching my head.
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:11 AM   #256
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Just got a call from the distressed GF, and she said the problem is back, so apparently the fuel pump didn't solve the problem. She's pretty upset, and I'm sitting here scratching my head.
You did not replace the fuel filter, correct?
You might also want to check the fuel pump relay, could be failing?
Do you have a code reader? If so, any codes?
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:13 AM   #257
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We have a new fuel filter and it's going in this weekend. I know there's a pressure regulator in there so I'm wondering if that's bad. And I guess we'll be checking the pump relay too.

We don't have a code reader, but the car isn't throwing any codes (previously read by dealer) and there's no lights on the dash.
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:02 AM   #258
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We have a new fuel filter and it's going in this weekend. I know there's a pressure regulator in there so I'm wondering if that's bad. And I guess we'll be checking the pump relay too.

We don't have a code reader, but the car isn't throwing any codes (previously read by dealer) and there's no lights on the dash.
I thought I just read the other day that the FPR is part of the pump.
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:30 AM   #259
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The cold start stalls are back! Fcuk! My hands are really starting to hurt. My wallets kicking me. 14 miles and the dreaded 2 codes are back. I was thinking..... I have headers and I used the gaskets that came with them. I didn't use oem gaskets. I think I might have a medium sized leak at the gasket between the block and the header. I've read a leak there can disrupt the system. Back pressure can be way off. Sometimes when driving my eyes start burning and I feel like its the exhaust fumes. So maybe that could be my problem. That leak could be throwing my o2 sensors off.....
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:46 AM   #260
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Cold start is pretty well a DMW mapping program for fuel, timing and idle speed. Any leaks from the headers or exhaust should not factor into cold start too much. That being said, I am not sure what happens if your fuel trims are shifted too far one specific direction if this will influence or alter the cold start DME program?

You may need to start a new thread with a list of what has been done to your car to date as you have a number of posts on the board and it may be hard for anyone to fully grasp what has been done in an attempt to help.

Assuming you have no specific engine mechanical problems, the your problem is most likely a lean condition due to too much air and/or not enough fuel.

Your specific problem may be complicated depending on what went down during your 3.0L swap into your car. So for example, things like what MAF are you running, what DME program are you running, you have headers, what about intake, fuel supply and so one. You may have a frankencar which may have something really causing your baseline tune to be way out of whack even if you resolve all of the details regarding vacuum leaks and so on.

All of these specific details are very important for everyone to fully understand what you are working with.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temps, Fuel Level - http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

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